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Ring Setting for my Alexandrites — back with CADs

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
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232
I started this project many months ago and been going back and forth with CAD tweaks. It’s my last project for a long, long time so I want to make it a good one! I think I’m getting close and would love some opinions, critiques, suggestions, etc. I have 4 small Russian alexandrites with excellent color change and will be adding a few diamonds. I’m focused on the top and side view for now (the filigree on the band is a placeholder). The beading gradually increases in size from the center around to the tip of the alexandrites and the prongs will be narrower and claw-like once finished. What do you think? Would you make any adjustments?

Huge thanks to @CHRISTY-DANIELLE and @voce for the great ideas in my original thread: https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-my-russian-alexandrites.266977/#post-4986209!

0387B1E1-4F99-4B98-BED2-49F15C5B927F.png
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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@Django0413 I love the CAD. The center diamond looks a bit plain to me. Would you consider a non-white center stone that doesn't blend into the surrounding four diamonds? I think if you could find another alexandrite it might be best, but a nice blue sapphire or sparkly pink stone would work, as well.
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
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agree, love everything except the centre diamond.
The visual impact is not “distinctive”, the centre needs to “anchor” the setting and being the same as the other 4 diamonds, it’s getting lost.
I would choose coloured centre, purple would be my suggestion (matches in then with the incandescent colour) - amethyst, purple garnet, purple sapphire would be my pick. Alternatively I think the centre diamond needs to be larger.
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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@voce - Unfortunately, I can't find another alexandrite. I bought these forever ago from a Russian gemologist who's family got them directly from the mine. Crazy story goes with this but that's the basics. I agree the center stone looks off -- love the idea of a sapphire in a different size. Thanks!

@Bron357 -- Good call -- yep, that center diamond looks weird. I'm not a fan of purple but maybe bright pink or blue and definitely larger.

I also asked to see the CAD where the 4 diamonds don't have beading and everything is pulled in tighter to the center so it looks more cohesive. I'll post that version when I get it. I think aesthetically, the space between everything might be bugging me.

Thanks for all the great advice! Keep it coming :)
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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@Django0413 why not just make it as one continuous piece and get engraving between the gems, if needed?

840581
Posting this not as an example of engraving, but the shape of one continuous piece with the gems set bright cut around a center stone (please ignore other layers).

I think a round blue sapphire or a pink sapphire would look fantastic with your alexandrites set in the corners, with a halo of diamonds in between.
 

ringo865

Ideal_Rock
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You mentioned that you’re not a fan of purple, but you know that alex will turn purple, right?
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
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232
You mentioned that you’re not a fan of purple, but you know that alex will turn purple, right?

Haha -- yes! I've had these stones for many years and just hadn't set them so I know how they respond. I've played with them under all kinds of lighting sources (yes, I'm that kind of nerd). I don't mind purple but would generally just opt for something different if I'm buying something. Thanks for checking in though -- totally fair point!
 

Rfisher

Ideal_Rock
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Does the designer have your alexandrites in hand?
The cad isn’t reading as using your oval shape stones, to my eye. I understand using oval stones in a pear outline metal shape. I don’t understand the cad depicting egg shape stones when yours oval.

I will also go against the grain as not one to suggest throwing another gemstone into the mix. I like it strictly diamond and Alex, as it is.
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
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Does the designer have your alexandrites?
The cad isn’t reading as using your oval shapes, to my eye.

I will also go against the grain as not one to throw another gemstone into the mix. I like it strictly diamond and Alex, as it is.

Thanks @Rfisher -- He has my stones and I actually had the same question so I asked him. He said it's the clunky nature of the CAD but he's got the stone size and shape accurate. I go back and forth on replacing the stone with another color -- I like the idea of the alexandrites remaining the star since they are so unique and special. However, I agree there's something off about the balance so I think the center stone, regardless of what it is, either needs to be bigger or smaller so it's not so symmetrical. I'll post more CADs when I get them... Curious to see how it looks without beading around the 4 diamonds and with everything tighter and more centrally cohesive... though I may find that the current design works and I just need a different size center stone... decisions, decisions...
 

Rfisher

Ideal_Rock
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I hope you don’t mind. 1AFE442B-B384-43B8-8B5F-E34A4F98A994.jpeg 7A3D631D-274D-434B-9055-A64AF8520B2A.jpeg 3FAEA131-F4AD-4539-8803-7F11CE9CE3DE.jpeg 11957EB2-E923-4160-8542-0F97E4E45298.jpeg
6D26E771-D5B7-4046-AEFF-28F7586012DA.jpeg
I seem to be a fan of getting rid of the individual bezels on your five center stones. Or at least reducing their proportions.
 
Last edited:

voce

Ideal_Rock
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How about a different shape for the center stone? Excuse sloppy sketches.
PXL_20210806_195145488.jpg PXL_20210806_195411654.jpg
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
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5,518
Yes yes yes, a square or asscher cut in the centre turned to point up, point down in the centre.
Then you have 3 shapes that work together.
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Yes yes yes, a square or asscher cut in the centre turned to point up, point down in the centre.
Then you have 3 shapes that work together.

I’m liking this plan! So if the alexandrites are 2x3, what size should the center stone be? Maybe 4.5mm?
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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I like the first one -- would you do a round inside a square bezel or a princess cut?

A princess cut. Yes, probably 4.5mm or even going up to 5mm for the princess cut.
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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A princess cut. Yes, probably 4.5mm or even going up to 5mm for the princess cut.

Ok so I’m now entering unknown territory with diamonds. So… so… sooo many questions. Help! Would I want to consider a carre, assscher, French, or princess cut? Wondering if princess cut will be too sparkly and maybe something that has more “quiet“ would be better. I’m also going to look at moissanite for budget reasons to see if it’s worth considering — open to thoughts on this as well. Any other suggestions on this new world of diamonds is much appreciated!
 

foxinsox

Ideal_Rock
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Ok so I’m now entering unknown territory with diamonds. So… so… sooo many questions. Help! Would I want to consider a carre, assscher, French, or princess cut? Wondering if princess cut will be too sparkly and maybe something that has more “quiet“ would be better. I’m also going to look at moissanite for budget reasons to see if it’s worth considering — open to thoughts on this as well. Any other suggestions on this new world of diamonds is much appreciated!
What is the facet pattern on your alexandrites like? Match the centre faceting to that - so if they’re chunky or bigger, consider french cut or asscher, if they’re splintery then princess would “go” better, if you know lol what I mean?
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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Ok so I’m now entering unknown territory with diamonds. So… so… sooo many questions. Help! Would I want to consider a carre, assscher, French, or princess cut? Wondering if princess cut will be too sparkly and maybe something that has more “quiet“ would be better. I’m also going to look at moissanite for budget reasons to see if it’s worth considering — open to thoughts on this as well. Any other suggestions on this new world of diamonds is much appreciated!

I was thinking Asscher or princess when I made the sketch. And honestly, if you're afraid princess cut will be too sparkly, don't get a diamond for the center gem, but a pastel colored tourmaline.
 

Starstruck8

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2021
Messages
60
Just a thought... For the centre stone, maybe a cushion rather than a square? Then (with the blunter corners) you could pull the alexandrites in a bit and push the four diamonds out a bit.
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 9, 2020
Messages
232
Great cad! I agree the middle needs a little more wow factor though. I love @voce 's idea about a square shape. Too bad money doesn't just grow on trees, I found a princess cut alex but its $$$$...
Screenshot_20210807-171911_DuckDuckGo.jpg Screenshot_20210807-111253_DuckDuckGo.jpg

When someone finds that money tree, please let me know! So pretty
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
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Thanks to everyone for the great recommendations! What about something like this? I like the antique look and its almost octagonal where if turned in end, the diamonds might fit in? What do you think?

 

CHRISTY-DANIELLE

Brilliant_Rock
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1,971
Not to be snobby (I've had moissanite myself) but at least for me it would seem a shame to finally set these alexandrites in a custom setting with the center stone not being something earth mined and genuine.
There are other options out there that won't break the bank.
A hexagonal montana sapphire for $119:
Screenshot_20210808-122522_Photo Editor.jpg

A (heated) blue/green sapphire for $108:

Screenshot_20210808-122450_Photo Editor.jpg
For a bit more, a natural "cats eye" alexandrite cabachon for $699:
Screenshot_20210808-122605_Photo Editor.jpg
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 9, 2020
Messages
232
Not to be snobby (I've had moissanite myself) but at last for me it would seem a shame to finally set these alexandrites in a custom setting with the center stone not being something earth mined and genuine.
There are other options out there that won't break the bank.
A hexagonal montana sapphire for $119:
Screenshot_20210808-122522_Photo Editor.jpg

A (heated) blue/green sapphire for $108:

Screenshot_20210808-122450_Photo Editor.jpg
For a bit more, a natural "cats eye" alexandrite cabachon for $699:
Screenshot_20210808-122605_Photo Editor.jpg

Thats not snobby at all and I was struggling with the EXACT same thing but trying to talk myself into it. Aesthetically, I like the hexagon idea. The cats eye is super interesting but I think having two different color changes in the same ring might drive me nuts. Maybe I’ll look at cat eye chrysoberyl… Or maybe I need to talk myself into a slight budget increase for a diamond…
 

CHRISTY-DANIELLE

Brilliant_Rock
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Sure! I've bought from the cats eye seller many times and never disappointed.. the other seller a few here have bought from and they were happy (but I've only favorited some of his stones, haven't bought ..yet)
Screenshot_20210808-113345_DuckDuckGo.jpg Screenshot_20210808-121120_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
Messages
232
Ugh — I’m still struggling with that stone in the middle. Something just doesn’t feel right to me so now I’m rethinking the design. Please tell me that someone else goes through this same level of lunacy!

Does anyone like this approach better? There would be beading inside the marquise shape, around the oval alexandrites, and then I’d have a cushion/asscher in the middle with single cuts on ends.

2C9B3A3A-4A42-44BA-AB65-2967FF0F6757.jpeg
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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May 13, 2018
Messages
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Ugh — I’m still struggling with that stone in the middle. Something just doesn’t feel right to me so now I’m rethinking the design. Please tell me that someone else goes through this same level of lunacy!

Does anyone like this approach better? There would be beading inside the marquise shape, around the oval alexandrites, and then I’d have a cushion/asscher in the middle with single cuts on ends.

2C9B3A3A-4A42-44BA-AB65-2967FF0F6757.jpeg

That is a good design as well, but I don't like one better than the other. The proportions of the new sketch makes it so that the center gem will have to be at least 6mm , which is bigger than what would fit in your design before.

P.S. edited to chime in and say that I hold on to gems for years (3 with a blue sapphire, 2 for my paraibas, spinels and a yellow beryl) before I can definitively say how I'll set them. I don't know how other people change their designs all the time; I usually have a specific vision by the time I request a CAD, and revisions are more about running the CAD to get closer to the vision in my head rather than a redesign. I just feel like once you have a CAD designer start to work on something there's a timer ticking, and you're more rushed to arrive at a final design.
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
Messages
232
That is a good design as well, but I don't like one better than the other. The proportions of the new sketch makes it so that the center gem will have to be at least 6mm , which is bigger than what would fit in your design before.

Wow — @voce, you are amazing! How do you do that? I found a chunky old mine cushion diamond that is 5.5x5.9 that I really like since the alexandrites have a bit more of a native cut. So, now I’m thinking yet again… definitely open to suggestions!
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
Messages
232
@voce and all others with far more expertise than me: I just found a hexagon step cut diamond. It’s L color, VS2 — I don’t mind the color unless you think it will clash. The dimensions are 6.46x5.37 — if the alexandrites are approximately 4x3, do you think this can work in the middle of my first CAD?
 

Django0413

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 9, 2020
Messages
232
That is a good design as well, but I don't like one better than the other. The proportions of the new sketch makes it so that the center gem will have to be at least 6mm , which is bigger than what would fit in your design before.

P.S. edited to chime in and say that I hold on to gems for years (3 with a blue sapphire, 2 for my paraibas, spinels and a yellow beryl) before I can definitively say how I'll set them. I don't know how other people change their designs all the time; I usually have a specific vision by the time I request a CAD, and revisions are more about running the CAD to get closer to the vision in my head rather than a redesign. I just feel like once you have a CAD designer start to work on something there's a timer ticking, and you're more rushed to arrive at a final design.

I completely agree with your additional comment. I’ve had these alexandrites for probably 7-8 years now and I had several designs in my head but thought I narrowed it down. I’m typically more decisive and clear about what I like but this one is throwing me. I think I’m just running into a combination of a lack of experience (I’ve only done a few projects) and really wanting something special for these stones is throwing me off. The jeweler is super patient and super busy with other projects so between the two, he doesn’t seem to mind.
 
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