Ring setting advice

[genine]

Before anything else, I must say that this is a great forum

. Ok for my dilemma ... I have 1.21 ct princess diamond on a platinum 4 prong tiffany setting. We purchased a new setting because the plat looks dull now and because I fell in love with the new setting, which is in 14k white gold.

I have tried several times to go to local jewelers to see how much they charge to reset the ring and almost 90% of them did not want to touch my diamond, I''m guessing it''s because they do not want to be responsible for any damages??? This makes me nervous although I''ve seen in this forum that chipping of the diamond during resetting is rare. It''s been suggested to bring the ring back to the original store I bought it from but the problem is it was purchased online a while back.

In summary, does anyone know of a jeweler in Southern California, particularly around Los Angeles, who''s really really good in setting diamonds? Also, should I switch the head of the new setting to platinum? How is this done and how much does it normally cost? I''d rather pay more to make sure that the diamond is secure.

Thanks for your help in advance!!

 

[newenglandgemlab]

Platinum definitely developes a 'patina' of its own. Why don't you just have the ring refinished (not just cleaned)? This can be done very easily. The platinum will far outlast the white gold in 14kt. Just my thoughts, Cindy

 

[genine]

Thanks for the response Cindy but I've had the other setting for a long time now and I love it. It seems like no one could really recommend a good jeweler around L.A. I guess my next question is, how do I figure out from those who said they could do it, is the best one? Are there certain questions I can ask to find out if they really know what they're doing? Btw, the average charge is $90 - $100 to set it. Does that sound right? I also included a picture of my ring and the new setting. It has 10 princess cut diamonds and 20 round diamonds weighing 1.40 cts twt. Any comments would be helpful!! Thanks!!!

 

[rocks]

resetting round brilliants, ovals, or shapes with cut corners (emerald cuts or radiants) is fairly riskless, unless the stone is heavily included. you are going to have a tough time getting a new jeweler to reset the princess cut, particularly if it is anything less than a vs1. he or she has little to gain, and everything to lose. the corners on a princess cut are particularly susceptible to damage, and the $100 that the jeweler might charge is not worth the potential risk. your best bet is to have the jeweler that you purchased the new ring from reset the stone.

and that is my professional opinion!

 

[jenibear]

I just wanted to say that is a beautiful princess and I LOVE your new setting.

I recommend you get those prongs redone in platinum - it is more secure than white gold.

As for setting the stone - I would contact the online vendor you bought the stone from and just see what they say.

Other than that I would contact jewelry stores and ask if any have insurance to cover setting stones.

Many do - if the ring comes into their store they are responsible until it leaves. That's what you need. Otherwise, make sure your ring is insured and any problems will be covered.

You may want to contact a reputable appraiser in your area and see if they have any recommendations. They deal with jewelers all the time.

You need to find someone you trust.

Good luck and please repost photos after that beauty is set. I'd love to see it!

edited to add - I switched to platinum prongs and it cost me nothing but that's because I was dealing with a vendor for the enitire purchase. I was quoted $100 or less elsewhere to switch the prongs.

 

[genine]

Rocks, it's a F VS1 and from what you said, now I understand why most of them turned me down. Jenibear, you are a teddy-bear. Thanks for all your comments and advices. I will get it insured before I do anything. I have to research more about insuring jewelry. Excuse me for being such a newbie but here comes another question. I know insurance will cut you a check but are there ones out there that will actually replace the diamond with similar specs?

 

[jenibear]

It's the teddy-bear at your service! Hee Hee.

Not all insurance is the same.

Chubb, for instance, will just cut you a check for the appraised value of the ring and let you do with it what you will.

Others will replace the diamond. Some companies will limit you to jewelers they have agreements with - some will let you choose.

For me - I am a control freak. I don't want someone dictating to me where I can shop. God forbid something happens to my ring I want to replace it myself and go through the same vendor - Diamond Brokers of Florida - who sold me the first one. So I am going with Chubb.

You have to decide what's best for you.

 

[newenglandgemlab]

Check out Jewelers Mutual. They let you go to the jeweler of your choice fo replacement. Cindy

 

[goldenringlets]

Genine:
I, too, have been posting for advice re a jeweler in the Los Angeles area to set a diamond, but without luck. This site is inhabited by lots of people from the Bay Area - but Los Angelinos are rare. One would think a city with many millions, with Beverly Hills right in the middle, might have some jewelers....

I'll keep my eye on this thread to see if you get an recommendations. Do you pros, Richard, for example, not have LA contacts?

Goldenringlets

 

[caratgirl]

Actually, Jenibear gave some really good advice - check out the list of appraisers on this site and give them a call. They for sure would know someone close to your area.

I live in L.A. and the only two jewelers that I would recommend for a really great setting job would be:

Oscar's Design Jewelry downtown L.A, 550 S Hill Street, #725 (7th floor)
213-622-1200

They do a very good job setting and polishing the prongs.

or

Lynn's Jewelry in Ventura, Ca. , 2434 Main street, 805-648-4544.They are higher-end, and the owner claims that his benchmen set stones using a 7 power lense (like that thing Richard Sherwood grows on his forehead

), then use a microscope or higher powered loupe to check their finished work.

Good luck finding someone.

 

[genine]

Wow, thanks for all the help and the leads. I was reading other posts about feather inclusions and such. I've never seen the inclusions on my diamond (I've only tried using 10x) and I'm curious to how it looks magnified. I would like to at least be able to identify it's mine, just in case. I'm assuming inclusions are just like finger prints no? Since, I'm going to have my diamond taken out, can I ask the jewelers to take those cool magnified pictures that you guys post all the time? Also, (eeek! yes my never ending questions

) is it ok to leave your diamond at the jewelers or could I ask to be present during the entire process? Thanks again!!

 

[jenibear]

Inclusions are like fingerprints - that's really the only way you can tell yours apart from another.

As for leaving the stone at a jeweler - there are ways to do it without getting ripped off - making sure the jeweler (as mine did) has insurance to cover all pieces in the store at all times. Or make sure you have insurance on the ring.

Otherwise - I suggest marking down all the identifying characteristics on the package the stone will sit in. Make sure you get a copy of that and judge your stone against that information when you pick it up.

As I have said before you don't have to be paranoid - just smart. The vast majority of jewelers probably don't want to rip you off.

But if they let you watch while they work with your stone -by all means do that!

I have no idea about those fancy pictures though. I don't have them but I know where my one inclusion is.

 

[caratgirl]

Both of the jewelers I mentioned above have microscopes that they will have you look at before and after so that you can see it is the same diamond. At Oscar's, you can wait about an hour until it is done in the back room, at Lynn's you probably need an appointment to have it set, so I would call first to see if they could accomodate you right away.

 

[genine]

Haha ... I am paranoid! I've never parted from my ring before and I live in L.A. and that's the excuse I'm sticking to. FYI, I ran out of questions. Thanks again teddy-bear.

 

[goldenringlets]

Caratgirl:
Excellent advice re LA - where I'm flying to from London later today. What's your opinion on this: I found an appraiser on Hill Streeet as recommended on that other website Diamond Talk - he was mentioned by some of the big internet diamond dealers. When I rang him, he mentioned he had a jeweler he uses. I figure a reputable appraiser would have a reputable setter, no?

Thanks,

Goldenringlets

 

[caratgirl]

Goldenringlets, absolutely. You might even want to 'prep' the jeweler that you will be checking the setting job with a loupe, because you are very picky and you don't want any 'metal flashing' left on the stone from the prongs being set against the stone. This way you can sound like a pro, and have them know to be extra careful.

 

[Michael_E]

genine,
There are two ways,(maybe three), to set a princess cut diamond into chevron prongs like you've shown. The best way and the most time consuming is to carefully cut the seats, and then split the tip of the prong with a very fine saw blade. You then fold each half of the split prong down over the tip of the diamond trimming each half of the split prong carefully as you go. When you're done you can burnish the split together for an almost seamless look. If done properly, this method eliminates stress and gives a very fine finished look.
Unfortunately most setters don't want to take the time to do this and just cut the seat, bore a relief hole for the tip of the diamond and bend the whole end of the prong over the stone until it's tight. This is fast but you really can't tell where the pressure is being applied on the diamond and if you didn't cut the seat and relief hole accurately...POP! there goes the tip of your stone.
What you might do is contact this school and see where some of there alumni are located. http://www.revereacademy.com/
The GIA also has a very good jewelers school and may have a suggestion as to where to find a good goldsmith. Good luck in your search.

 

[genine]

I have began my first steps and contacted the leads you good people provided. I found an appraiser from jewelry judge around my area. I also contacted the Jeweler in downtown that Caratgirl suggested and I will be seeing them next week. For insurance purposes, how often do you need to get/update your appraisal? I received an appraisal three years ago, do I need to get a new one? Michael, thanks for the info. I will be switching the head to platinum. You mentioned that the new setting have chevron prongs, are there other types better suited for a princess? Thanks!