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Ring CAD review

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Hello all,

I am very much new to looking at CADs and figuring out what exactly is going on (especially if the proportions are right!).

I am setting a 6.6mm octagonal shaped sapphire. I wanted the head to be in platinum and the rest in 18 k yellow gold.

I am not 100% sure on the round graduated diamonds - do they clash a bit with the baguettes and the overall look? David said that he would milgrain around the round diamonds if I wanted.

Would love some advice!

RingCAD.jpg
 

LilAlex

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
534
I am not 100% sure on the round graduated diamonds - do they clash a bit with the baguettes and the overall look? David said that he would milgrain around the round diamonds if I wanted.
I think they will look great -- they would simply add sparkle to platinum but they may be discernible as round in yellow gold. No matter what, they will not jump out at you the way they do against the vivid green CAD or wax model.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,976
You can ask the graduated rounds to be replaced by a pair of tapered baguettes.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
I think they will look great -- they would simply add sparkle to platinum but they may be discernible as round in yellow gold. No matter what, they will not jump out at you the way they do against the vivid green CAD or wax model.
I was hoping for a subtle look so what you wrote makes sense!
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Some things I was curious about:

Is the width of the band okay at 1.8 mm? Would the ring flip?
Is the CAD saying that the whole head is in platinum? Or just the bezel around the sapphire?
would the mix of platinum and 18 kt yellow gold be incongruous?
Would milgrain around the tapered baguettes make the shoulders “fussy”? If I make the changes from graduates rounds to the tapers.

I appreciate all the input from the experienced eyes here!
 

Slick1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
2,549
I think you’re off to a good start with this cad. Very nice! I love baguette halos. I would probably use step cuts in the shank also. I like the idea of baguettes. I do not think it will look fussy as step cuts are subtle imo.
I would also add that you will have a large gap if you plan to wear a band with this ring. If you do plan on stacking, I would streamline the gallery to taper in to allow a flusher fit.

ETA you could have dk add sizing beads. I find those really help with spinning. I have also seen shanks that widen at the bottom to help even out the weight. I also think YG and Platinum are beautiful together.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
I think you’re off to a good start with this cad. Very nice! I love baguette halos. I would probably use step cuts in the shank also. I like the idea of baguettes. I do not think it will look fussy as step cuts are subtle imo.
I would also add that you will have a large gap if you plan to wear a band with this ring. If you do plan on stacking, I would streamline the gallery to taper in to allow a flusher fit.

ETA you could have dk add sizing beads. I find those really help with spinning. I have also seen shanks that widen at the bottom to help even out the weight. I also think YG and Platinum are beautiful together.
Thanks for your advice @Slick1! I do plan to try to wear a plain band with it but not sure what “streamlining “ the gallery actually looks like? Would that mean making the shoulders larger/wider and then tapering?
As for the sizing beads, would that mean making the ring size larger? Or would widening the shank at the bottom be better?
 

Slick1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
2,549
@eesmom you are welcome. I am far from an expert but I’ve made quite a few rings with DK.
I will attach my CAD so you can see how I streamlined the basket. He called it inverting it.. I prefer not to have an uneven gap so this design works well for me.
So the sizing beads I do use to keep it from spinning since I need a larger size to get over the knuckle. You may need to size up a tad but it does help to keep it in place. I am doing a new ring with dk now and his first CAD shows the wider shank I was referring to. Let me attach pics. The round CADs are the finished ones. The cushion three stone is in production and these CADs may not be the finals.

See how smushed/inverted the gallery gets at the finger? You will lose some of the profile view of stone though.
3681D1F9-4BBF-41FA-B547-3CC4A96ADBC2.jpeg
See how streamlined the profile is beneath the center stone here? This will enable a much closer fit with a band imo
40DF27A5-0D2C-4F5B-9100-50E46E94F517.jpeg

This is the wider shank on the bottom to help top heaviness. I chose to just add sizing beads.
580D8DA5-BDBD-4D39-A613-381E0CFEA014.jpeg
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
@eesmom you are welcome. I am far from an expert but I’ve made quite a few rings with DK.
I will attach my CAD so you can see how I streamlined the basket. He called it inverting it.. I prefer not to have an uneven gap so this design works well for me.
So the sizing beads I do use to keep it from spinning since I need a larger size to get over the knuckle. You may need to size up a tad but it does help to keep it in place. I am doing a new ring with dk now and his first CAD shows the wider shank I was referring to. Let me attach pics. The round CADs are the finished ones. The cushion three stone is in production and these CADs may not be the finals.

See how smushed/inverted the gallery gets at the finger? You will lose some of the profile view of stone though.
3681D1F9-4BBF-41FA-B547-3CC4A96ADBC2.jpeg
See how streamlined the profile is beneath the center stone here? This will enable a much closer fit with a band imo
40DF27A5-0D2C-4F5B-9100-50E46E94F517.jpeg

This is the wider shank on the bottom to help top heaviness. I chose to just add sizing beads.
580D8DA5-BDBD-4D39-A613-381E0CFEA014.jpeg
I see what you mean about the gallery being smooth now! My CAD is very angular, right, whereas yours is smooth and rounded! Light bulb moment. I would have never noticed that! You mentioned that it may hide the stone more- would that also mean, make it harder to clean?

Okay, I think looking at your CAD, i think I would prefer the sizing beads as well. I don't think my ring head is as big as the inspo pic and it wouldn't balance with a wider shank.
 

Slick1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
2,549
@eesmom I totally understand the need to clean the stone. I can get a toothbrush into the gallery as well as having a hole under it. Your cad's gallery is squared off along the finger whereas I always chose to streamline that area for bands.
You can always take the sizing beads out if you find them uncomfortable. It also depends on the weight of the center head area and finger shape. My finger is small where rings sit but I have terribly arthritic knuckles. You may not need beads if rings don't usually spin on you.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Also, kind of off subject- I have generally been under the impression that platinum is more expensive than gold. But when I check actual prices for these metals, gold is almost double the price of platinum. How does this figure? Is there more work involved for the jewelers when dealing with platinum?
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Also, does this CAD look bulky/boxy to you all? Or is it in keeping with the inspiration photo that I attached? I like art deco and clean lines but I also don't want it to look too boxy and not attractive!
 

elizat

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
2,045
Also, kind of off subject- I have generally been under the impression that platinum is more expensive than gold. But when I check actual prices for these metals, gold is almost double the price of platinum. How does this figure? Is there more work involved for the jewelers when dealing with platinum?
Metal costs go up and down over time, with frequent market cost adjustments. Unless you really want gold, I would suggest platinum, especially if less expensive.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Metal costs go up and down over time, with frequent market cost adjustments. Unless you really want gold, I would suggest platinum, especially if less expensive.
It would make sense that a ring in platinum would be cheaper now but I am told that the ring would be more expensive in platinum.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,976
Also, kind of off subject- I have generally been under the impression that platinum is more expensive than gold. But when I check actual prices for these metals, gold is almost double the price of platinum. How does this figure? Is there more work involved for the jewelers when dealing with platinum?
Metals don't have the same density. Platinum is more dense than gold, and prices are quoted in terms of weight. To use the same volume metal, platinum will weight 67% more than a 14kt gold alloy. Unless you're using 24k gold, the alloys added to pure gold have the tendency to reduce the density.

In the following table I got from Cecile Raley Designs (link here), you can see that for the same ring or volume of metal used, platinum will weigh 11% more than 24k gold, 42% more than 18k gold, 66% more than 14k gold, 88% more than 10k gold, and 106% more than sterling silver.

1591814523648.png

Put in simple terms, if a ring will weight 3g using 14k gold, you'll need 5g of platinum to make the exact same ring. So even if platinum is cheaper per gram or per oz, the ring will end up costing more.
 
Last edited:

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
This is what I was
Metals don't have the same density. Platinum is more dense than gold, and prices are quoted in terms of weight. To use the same volume metal, platinum will weight 67% more than a 14kt gold alloy. Unless you're using 24k gold, the alloys added to pure gold have the tendency to reduce the density.

In the following table I got from Cecile Raley Designs (link here), you can see that for the same ring or volume of metal used, platinum will weigh 11% more than 24k gold, 42% more than 18k gold, 66% more than 14k gold, 88% more than 10k gold, and 106% more than sterling silver.

1591814523648.png

Put in simple terms, if a ring will weight 3g using 14k gold, you'll need 5g of platinum to make the exact same ring. So even if platinum is cheaper per gram or per oz, the ring will end up costing more.
This was what I was hoping to know! Thank you @voce
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
David sent this new CAD for me to look at with an arched gallery. I don’t know if I like it? But I also don’t know how to change it and keep it in the style that I am looking for!
thoughts?
2505C620-8BCA-4B65-BDFC-28DA2278AE17.png
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
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What would you like to change about the latest CAD?
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
What would you like to change about the latest CAD?
The arched gallery? If you see the first CAD at the top, the gallery is angular and someone mentioned that it may be hard to put a band next to it. So with the arched gallery, it allows a band to sit a bit closer.
But I wonder if isn’t too arched? Argh.
Should I ask David to raise the gallery? I guess I don’t know how to make room because the gallery kind of looks squished. If that makes sense?
I just don’t know enough of ring design to figure what I need to ask changed.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,976
Ask him if he can set it cathedral style so a ring can lay flat against it?
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Hello all,

I am very much new to looking at CADs and figuring out what exactly is going on (especially if the proportions are right!).

I am setting a 6.6mm octagonal shaped sapphire. I wanted the head to be in platinum and the rest in 18 k yellow gold.

I am not 100% sure on the round graduated diamonds - do they clash a bit with the baguettes and the overall look? David said that he would milgrain around the round diamonds if I wanted.

Would love some advice!

RingCAD.jpg
So, I have decided to go with this gallery since I don't think I will wear a band with it. I also asked David to change the side stones to a taper to keep in line with the sleeker halo.

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on using platinum and mixing it with 18 kt white gold? I was considering platinum for the head and 18 kt white gold for the shank.

Are there any other things that I should consider before I pull the trigger?
 

CHRISTY-DANIELLE

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
1,738
So, I have decided to go with this gallery since I don't think I will wear a band with it. I also asked David to change the side stones to a taper to keep in line with the sleeker halo.

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on using platinum and mixing it with 18 kt white gold? I was considering platinum for the head and 18 kt white gold for the shank.

Are there any other things that I should consider before I pull the trigger?
Curious why you wouldn't just get all platinum? DKs plat prices are very reasonable, and close to 18k price. I have a personal preference for platinum, I like the weight of it and the patina it develops over time. I don't think I'd mix the two, though both are white metals there would be a difference in the color, however slight. They could easily give you an updated quote.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Curious why you wouldn't just get all platinum? DKs plat prices are very reasonable, and close to 18k price. I have a personal preference for platinum, I like the weight of it and the patina it develops over time. I don't think I'd mix the two, though both are white metals there would be a difference in the color, however slight. They could easily give you an updated quote.
Thanks for that thought @CHRISTY-DANIELLE - I have never had a ring in 18k white gold. . . or mixed with platinum. So I appreciate the vote for all plat.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
Hello all! I think it is getting close to having to decide if I want to milgrain my ring. I am leaning towards milgrain but have never worn any jewelry with it. Would keeping the ring plain make it seem more modern, whereas adding milgrain make it more “romantic/antique”?
Here is my CAD, all metal is plat. And the center stone is a blue sapphire!
A524E33D-BD03-467F-96D4-24207A1F9CAE.png

thanks in advance!
S
 

CHRISTY-DANIELLE

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
1,738
If you aren't sure, you could always ask them to send you photos of the completed ring without milgrain. See what you think. You could even take delivery as is, and send back for milgrain if you decided you want it afterall. Lot easier to go from smooth to milgrained then from milgrained to smooth!
It depends on your aesthetic. I do think milgrain adds an extra dimension, but I'm a fan. Smooth seems more modern to me, but for some pieces it looks perfect.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
You could even take delivery as is, and send back for milgrain if you decided you want it afterall. Lot easier to go from smooth to milgrained then from milgrained to smooth!
I didn’t even think of that option! I was worried that just seeing a pic from David may not be enough for me to make that assessment. So your idea is a great one! ;)2
 

CHRISTY-DANIELLE

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
1,738
Just let DKJ know you're on the fence between milgrain or not, they'll send you pics. And I know will be happy to add milgrain if you get it home and decided you wanted it.
 

eesmom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
246
I got the video of my ring but unfortunately, it was made in the wrong metal. . I am not worried because I know that it will be made right but at least I have an idea of what it looks like and have to decide if I want to milgrain it or not.

So my question is, are there different types of milgrain? Or just different widths? I saw some other works by DK and I think some had heavier milgrain than others. Is that my eyes or is that something that one can specify? I am confused as to how I am suppose to explain what I want.

I can’t seem to be able to attach my video. Hmm.
 
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