Rhino Master Bench vs Stuller Custom Setting?

[Kickskid21]

I’m having an engagement ring made by Rhino @ Distinctive Gem and was given 2 options for creating the setting...either have his master bench do it all by hand (more expensive) or have Stuller create it using the cutouts from his CAD (cheaper). Does anybody have any experience/input on this? Thanks!

(here’s the setting for reference https://www.distinctivegem.com/collections/all/products/stephanie)

 

[Rfisher]

Congratulations on your engagement!
I see there are real life photos (as opposed to the renderings) in the listing.
Are those real life photos of the ring an example from his master bench or from stuller?
I would request to see the real photo results from both options before I decided. Not a rendering.
If not possible this exact ring -then something similar.

if you are picky- or super interested in the design details - I’d be real curious about the differences in the finished product between the two.
i think that’s a fair question to ask, what exact difference are to be expected by using stock pieces from stuller. If that’s what you mean by cutouts.

edited - because don’t wish to assume anymore the photos are from a master bench.

 

[Kickskid21]

Those actual photos are from Stuller. I don’t really see any small details on this settings that would necessarily benefit from a master bench, but maybe I’m wrong.

I also need to decide between shared prong and split (French) prong. The actual photos show shared prong.

 

[Rfisher]

That’s something to definitely ask the rep- what do you get visually wise by going with the master bench or what other options open up by doing so?


This could be just a trick of the eye/shadow on the photograph -
But if it weren’t -I’d be asking for that to be smoother of a transition, as I think it’d be bothersome.

Hopefully someone else that’s actually used his benches /stuller products from him can chime in and be more helpful.

 

[Kickskid21]

That’s something to definitely ask the rep- what do you get visually wise by going with the master bench or what other options open up by doing so?


This could be just a trick of the eye/shadow on the photograph -
But if it weren’t -I’d be asking for that to be smoother of a transition, as I think it’d be bothersome.

Oh wow, I didn’t even notice that. Yeah, I’d want that part to be as close to the width at the end of the prong, personally.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I'd also add a doughnut under the head. Because as it is now, the wedding band is going to rub the that center prong on the profile view and that is not good. It just needs a slight redesign. And always go with a master bench for a pave setting.

 

[Kickskid21]

I'd also add a doughnut under the head. Because as it is now, the wedding band is going to rub the that center prong on the profile view and that is not good. It just needs a slight redesign. And always go with a master bench for a pave setting.

I’m relatively new haha, what do you mean by donut? Also, what would be the downside to having Stuller make it with the pave?

 

[oldminer]

I'd suggest using a shank base on the above ring which was equal to the depth of the end two prongs on each side. Those end prongs would wear out way before their time being exposed on the bottom of the ring. It would use up a bit more metal to make the shank base deeper, but the longevity of the ring would be increased.

Using a wedding ring that was fitted to the shape of the engagement ring would eliminate the need for the added "doughnut". The same would apply if the wedding ring were tack soldered to the base of the engagement ring to prevent rotating and wear to the prong sides. Both are easy things to accomplish and would increase durability.

Using a very good bench jeweler can result in a high degree of fit and finish. Often a bench guy will add a little metal that happens to increase the strength and lasting ability of the ring. Ready made products and CAD rendered products often look somewhat blocky or a little over-sized, some may look great but end up a little too thin and may have weakness in places. A great crafts person will not go to either extreme, but you need to rely on their experience and judgement. Getting a recommendation from previous owners of their products is very useful in knowing what to expect..

 

[muesli]

My setting was made by the master bench (from the "signature" line) and I love it. It doesn't have pave though.
I can add photos if you like.

 

[Kickskid21]

My setting was made by the master bench (from the "signature" line) and I love it. It doesn't have pave though.
I can add photos if you like.

Absolutely!

 

[Kickskid21]

I'd suggest using a shank base on the above ring which was equal to the depth of the end two prongs on each side. Those end prongs would wear out way before their time being exposed on the bottom of the ring. It would use up a bit more metal to make the shank base deeper, but the longevity of the ring would be increased.

Using a wedding ring that was fitted to the shape of the engagement ring would eliminate the need for the added "doughnut". The same would apply if the wedding ring were tack soldered to the base of the engagement ring to prevent rotating and wear to the prong sides. Both are easy things to accomplish and would increase durability.

Using a very good bench jeweler can result in a high degree of fit and finish. Often a bench guy will add a little metal that happens to increase the strength and lasting ability of the ring. Ready made products and CAD rendered products often look somewhat blocky or a little over-sized, some may look great but end up a little too thin and may have weakness in places. A great crafts person will not go to either extreme, but you need to rely on their experience and judgement. Getting a recommendation from previous owners of their products is very useful in knowing what to expect..

That was my exact thought about the shank base

 

[muesli]

Absolutely!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Okay, it took me awhile to find a picture with a doughnut. A doughnut, if high enough, can raise up the head (prongs) of the ring a bit so that the wedding band does not rub the prongs (which will eventually cut into them).

This shows the circular base we call a doughnut (ring by CVB Inspired Design)... You'd want the doughnut to be the height of the shank (band) of the ring. At that height, you'd then want the wedding band to be no higher (thickness off the finger) than the engagement ring.



Next is a picture where the head is set low even with the doughnut, and the wedding band is too high and will cut into the engagement ring prongs.