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Question for the Smiths

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skibb

Rough_Rock
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Sep 3, 2003
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Platinum or Goldsmiths, not the Band!

Before I start, this a great site. It''s very informative and I''m sure has proven useful to many people, like it has for me. It''s great to see an open discussion forum with a positive upbeat vibe.

Anyway, I have a question for a goldsmith/platinum smith. Most of the queries here appear gemstone related. It relates to the relative merits of white gold or platinum in a four-prong tiffany style setting.

My Fiancee and I have purchased a 1.3ct G SI1 ideal round stone. We have approached some jewellers to discuss setting the stone and have shortlisted two. We want a simple 18k gold ring with a platinum tiffany style setting. We like 18k gold and tiffany style setting and platinum setting has been recommended by almost everyone we have talked to.

The two jewellers are both reputable, but very different.

One operates from a back street and specialises in custom rings. He can make a hand forged ring in 18k gold and hand forged setting in platinum. He doesn''t have extensive showrooms so there isn''t a piece that we can look at before the ring is made. Although handforged sounds nice, my feels more comfortable if she can see exactly what the finished produce looks nice.

The second is a high street jeweller with an extensive showroom. He can show us a ring in his display that is the finished article that we want. Here the ring is made from cast blanks (both setting and ring). However, he wants to set the stone in white gold rather than platinum and we are confused.

Now for the technical bit.

His view is that platinum is more malleable and pliable than white gold when cast. It isn''t work hardened. Therefore platinum, although harder wearing is more likely to bend and cause you to lose the stone, particularly in a four prong setting. He is willing to set in platinum, but clearly not comfortable. I believe a craftsman needs to be comfortable with what he is doing and I don''t want to press him where he doesn''t want to go.

What are the relative merits of cast white gold and cast platinum for setting a diamond? Does it make a difference if the setting is forged and work hardened? What advice can you give.

Thanks

Padraig
 

Colored Gemstone Nut

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Nov 21, 2002
Messages
2,326
I believe a craftsman needs to be comfortable with what he is doing and I don't want to press him where he doesn't want to go.




Padraig,



Hello...



I know a couple goldmiths and one in paritcular has been creating pieces for over 30 years.



This goldsmith in particular will not work in platinum because it is a different medium all together. There are different inherent properties which make up the metal and heating and fabricating is different due to the temperatures involved in making the medium maleable.



There are individuals who work in all mediums, but I think your main focus should be to find a individual who works in platinum and is comfortable working with platinum who has an established reputation. Greg at Ringdesigner and Mark Morell both have established an excellent reputation in the industry and their pieces speak for themselves.



I think the real issue is finding someone who works with this medium because what you want is more important rather than making sacrifices on the individual making the piece "not being comfortable" doing so.



My fiance and many others have platinum settings with 4 prong heads and I personally have not had any problems.



When you state the individual is not comfortable setting the stone with platinum I think it might be due to the persons lack of experience working with the metal. Unless there are unforseen circumstances I think someone in the business of making custom pieces should not advise on not being comfortable making the piece.



To me it would be a red flag that the individual is not comfortable because he or she might not have much experience working with the metal.



There are many reputable people in the industry who do work in platinum. Seek out their services before you sacrifice the uncertainty of the jeweler you discuss...



Custom design and fabrication are just that .....CUSTOM. If someone can't meet your needs. There is always someone who can...



Just my 2 cents...



-Josh Rioux



Sitka, Alaska /idealbb/images/smilies/wavey.gif




 
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