Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions pls

[motownmama]

MY anniversary ring I've had for 6 months is back at the vendor.

(1) One of the sapphires has a little chip on a crown facet

(2) the 950/IR does NOT seem to be wearing well at all

(3) should it be remade in a different platinum alloy?

(4) If so, which one?

(5) Will the filigree on the sides have to be sacrificed with a harder alloy?

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

BTW- I have platinum rings and I understand about patina. I wear a platinum Tiffany Etoile daily.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Come one, come all!

 

[chrono]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Am I seeing things or are there tiny holes in the platinum setting (porosity)? It could be that you are also very hard on rings, given that you have chipped the sapphire within 6 months of wear.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Chrono - thanks very much for responding! I'm not sure about porosity, but that's a good question. Yes - the sapphire chipped - that's true. But, I've been asking friends with sapphire ER's who've worn them non-stop for YEARS - they seem to have better luck. I'm comparing the plat wear 'n tear to my Etoile - I've gone for months without ever taking it off! Just fine scratches - no digs or dents.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Tiffany actually uses a very hard alloy, 95%platinum/5%ruthenium. That is the hardest and second hardest commonly used by top ring makers is 90%platinum/10%iridium.

I only wear fine jewelry when going out, and never when I am doing any kind of housework or cooking, cleaning, etc. I'd equate it to wearing a nice dress or outfit, I do not do those things when dressed up, either. So I'd remake in a harder alloy and take off rings when they could be damaged.

 

[chrono]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

I only wear fine jewelry when going out, and never when I am doing any kind of housework or cooking, cleaning, etc. I'd equate it to wearing a nice dress or outfit, I do not do those things when dressed up, either. So I'd remake in a harder alloy and take off rings when they could be damaged.

Ditto; there are enough stories in CS where one accidental whack against the dryer is enough to chip the stone.

 

[MollyMalone]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

I like the fact that Mark Morrell dedicates one of his web pages to his assessments of various platinum alloys. Here's what he has to say about that particular 950 platinum-iridum alloy:
This is a very soft alloy - is extremely malleable - Setting stones is the least risky in this alloy. Dents and dings occur easily. Is resistant to wear and abrasion but not resistant to scratching, bending and being deformed and dented by impacts. This alloy works extremely well for both casting and hand fabrication. It just doesn't age very gracefully.

More about the other alloys here:
http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm

 

[John P]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Tiffany actually uses a very hard alloy, 95%platinum/5%ruthenium. That is the hardest.

My ring is made from Pt950/Ru. I wear it 4-5 days per week and, while I do my best to take it easy, I see dings and nicks regularly appearing over time. Worse in some instances than the photos above. I need to have it re-polished about every 3 months, and my bench guy is starting to cluck at me about that.

Meanwhile, my wife's setting is Pt950/Ir. She wears it every day. Although it's a softer alloy and a far more delicate setting she only needs it polished every year or so, and simply to restore the luster.

The way a platinum piece looks, in terms of patina, has more to do with how you personally wear your jewelry than anything else.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Diamond seeker - I certainly appreciate your POV. And - I agree. I have quite a bit of fine jewelry (from my mom - a big jewelry fan -who passed away). I keep it in the bank and take it out for special occasions, like you mention.But, I feel like wedding jewelry can be worn all the time, if it's not a delicate setting/design. I don't mind wear on the metal, but the stones should be well protected. Heavy lifting for me probably equates to pushing the computer mouse around (ok - not really). I NEVER take off my ER except to clean it.

Thank-you Molly. I printed the info. you referenced. I'm speaking to the vendor in an hour.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Thank-you, John. This ring is 950/IR. I wonder what plat my mom's ER is? She was married 55 years! It's got that patina & grayish color, but NO dings (also, no fancy scroll work).

Your own plat ring alloy is the strongest; is that correct? Any pics of the dings & dents?

 

[John P]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Thank-you, John. This ring is 950/IR. I wonder what plat my mom's ER is? She was married 55 years! It's got that patina & grayish color, but NO dings (also, no fancy scroll work).

Your own plat ring alloy is the strongest; is that correct? Any pics of the dings & dents?

Snapped this for you with my iPhone. It was last re-polished only a week ago and, while the top and sides are pristine, I already have scuffs on the bottom. I do have a known-habit of drumming on my steering wheel to blame for that.

You can also see the long-term damage atop the initials on the inside of the ring. I cannot conceive how that happened, since my finger covers that portion. Obviously my lifestyle is not gazelle-like. In all honestly, my benchie is right to cluck.



BTW, here's a Pricescope article I wrote some time ago with images and additional information.
https://www.pricescope.com/journal/overview_common_alloys_used_jewelry

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Thanks John! Yes - I saw & printed your article. If you were me, would you have it remade with Pt950/Ru?

 

[John P]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Thanks John! Yes - I saw & printed your article. If you were me, would you have it remade with Pt950/Ru?

If you're having it remade anyway that couldn't hurt, and it might help in the long-run. It's certain that going to a higher HV affords a bit more protection, but all platinum unavoidably develops a patina over time. The biggest factor in that is wear-habits. Sounds like your mom was graceful with hers!

Your post is timely, as I'm also re-thinking my situation. It's becoming clear that unconscious/habitual hand-movements I make will continue to create a regular need to re-polish my platinum. I must either accept that and gird myself for eventual remake(s) or change the frequency of damage. It's unlikely that I can change my personal leopard-spots too much, so I probably need to change my wear-frequency. To that end, I'm considering going to another metal band entirely for day-to-day wear, perhaps Titanium, and wearing my platinum diamond ring more formally.

For obvious reasons I'd prefer not to do that... Yet, since the latest re-polish, I've tried to be careful, but it's already it's a bit scuffed. Part of that may be a careless Y-chromosome clunking around inside of me, though.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

John - was looking at some of my rings last night. I know it's the age old PS question - but I'm wondering now about 18K WG - I can't believe how well mine have worn, given my short history with this one. I know there are millions of threads on this...... thoughts?

 

[John P]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

I have former students, colleagues and others regularly asking my advice about 18K versus Pt. I always seek to know how active they are. In many cases, especially with fellow drummers, I lean towards 18K, and it's usually proven to be wise counsel.

Looking back perhaps I should have followed my own advice for my ring...but I'm in the biz and platinum is "the metal of kings" Ah, hubris.

I've contemplated a remake in gold, but one significant difference is that I don't have prongs. I'm not a fan of gold prongs.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Thanks again for coming back again, John. Guitar player here!! But - I digress.......In addition to 18K, do you (or anyone else) - think there's anything functional/attractive that could protect the sapphires better - both abraded.

 

[chrono]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Bezel setting only protects the girdle. There's nothing you can do to protect the exposed crown.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Yes - that makes sense, Chrono - I'm just wondering if a thicker or double halo might buffer the stone as the hand heads towards danger.

 

[chrono]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

It might work if the table is flush with the metal or diamonds but in doing so, you will impact both the colour and performance of the sapphire.

 

[John P]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

It might work if the table is flush with the metal or diamonds but in doing so, you will impact both the colour and performance of the sapphire.

Yes. In fact, as a rule, colored diamonds and gemstones benefit when as much light as possible can enter. With that said, your sapphires seem to be terrific even when bezel-set, which speaks to their quality. Nevertheless I'm with Chrono on this one. I would not raise the bezel stages.

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

OK - that's good input!

I texted 2 of my good friends here in town - I've NEVER seen them w/o their platinum wedding sets - YUP -both confirmed they NEVER take them off except for cleaning. They snapped pics for me - not anywhere close to my situation, and one's been married for 30 years!!

It HAS to be the difference in the alloy.

I saw where Mark Morrell said 950/Ir is TOO soft for his clients.

I'm sure we can get to the bottom of this and fix this situation. If sapphires aren't durable for everyday wear, perhaps I need to replace them with diamonds, but I want a contrast - champagne??? IDK

Any/all ideas welcomed!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Thanks John! Yes - I saw & printed your article. If you were me, would you have it remade with Pt950/Ru?

If you're having it remade anyway that couldn't hurt, and it might help in the long-run. It's certain that going to a higher HV affords a bit more protection, but all platinum unavoidably develops a patina over time. The biggest factor in that is wear-habits. Sounds like your mom was graceful with hers!

Your post is timely, as I'm also re-thinking my situation. It's becoming clear that unconscious/habitual hand-movements I make will continue to create a regular need to re-polish my platinum. I must either accept that and gird myself for eventual remake(s) or change the frequency of damage. It's unlikely that I can change my personal leopard-spots too much, so I probably need to change my wear-frequency. To that end, I'm considering going to another metal band entirely for day-to-day wear, perhaps Titanium, and wearing my platinum diamond ring more formally.

For obvious reasons I'd prefer not to do that... Yet, since the latest re-polish, I've tried to be careful, but it's already it's a bit scuffed. Part of that may be a careless Y-chromosome clunking around inside of me, though.

John, I was just about to say that you need a second band! I think titanium will scratch like crazy, won't it? My son-in-law has tungsten carbide and it looks new after 4.5 years. He got his from Tungsten World.

Here ya go..not sure if your ring is 6mm or 8mm but here are some that are similar:

http://www.tungstenworld.com/4mm-6mm-Womens-Mens-Domed-Tungsten-Wedding-Band/

http://www.tungstenworld.com/8mm-Mens-8mm-Durable-Tungsten-Carbide-Ring/

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

OK - that's good input!

I texted 2 of my good friends here in town - I've NEVER seen them w/o their platinum wedding sets - YUP -both confirmed they NEVER take them off except for cleaning. They snapped pics for me - not anywhere close to my situation, and one's been married for 30 years!!

It HAS to be the difference in the alloy.

I saw where Mark Morrell said 950/Ir is TOO soft for his clients.

I'm sure we can get to the bottom of this and fix this situation. If sapphires aren't durable for everyday wear, perhaps I need to replace them with diamonds, but I want a contrast - champagne??? IDK

Any/all ideas welcomed!

You can certainly wear diamond rings all the time as long as they are insured (in case of cracking a diamond, loss, theft). You will just have wear and tear on the setting which hopefully can be polished. But I couldn't bear for sapphires to be abraded. The ring you now have is just not a 24/7 ring due to the side sapphires. If that is your desire, I would recommend changing to all diamonds.

Tiffany and Leon use 950plat/5ruthernium, Mark Morrell and Victor Canera use 900plat/10iridium. I have both and have had very good results. I generally don't buy anything with the 95/5iridium...exception might be earrings which get no wear and tear.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Oh, and I just reread an earlier post. I do not keep my rings in a safe deposit box, because I do wear them when going somewhere which is several times a week. I just never wear them around the house when doing any kind of work with my hands at all. If I want to look at them, I'll put them on at night when I am on the computer or something!

 

[motownmama]

Re: Question about Platinum alloy - Gypsy & others opinions

Thanks DS - looking to change the plat alloy and perhaps the sidestones. THX for coming back again!!