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Please help me set some mismatched monster studs! 16.5-7mm Tahitian and WSS

Pomelo

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
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745
Hello all, please can I ask how you’d set this pair of mismatched monster studs?

Inspired by various mismatched pairs I’ve seen, I went shopping for separate single black and white pearls that could form a pair. I wanted 15mm+ and got 16.5mm :evil2:

The details are:
  • Pearls: peacock-ish Tahitian and WSS
  • Size: 16.5-16.7mm
  • Shape: the Tahitian is circle, the WSS is button but with a tail that needs to be ground down
  • The Tahitian is pretty lustrous for its size, the WSS not so much but I was happy to compromise on lustre for a similar size and shape to the Tahitian (which I bought first). Both have some blemishes, with the T being more blemished than the WSS
  • Weight: ~6g each

I’d like to have them set as studs and have these questions if anyone has any experience/suggestions please!
  • How to make them as comfortable as possible?
  • Do I need / should I have a large cup made to cover the “stub” of the Tahitian, especially as there’s a big blemish there? But would that mean the WSS needs a similar cup made so that they both have a large cup from a side profile perspective?
  • Is it advisable to have the earring post slightly higher up rather than dead-centre?
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This is very tricky. the tail on the pearl will probably cause it to not sit flat on your ear. I'm not even sure you could use a pearl cup on it ... unless you can have it ground down ? You are definitely going to need to talk to a jeweller about how to manage these as the shape is an issue. I always recommend a High Button shape for large pearls so there is more contact with the earlobe due to the 'flatter' bottom. But the Button shape needs to be chosen carefully as not all are suitable.
Talk to a jeweller.
 
Thinking aloud, and I do not know if it is doable, however, how about cutting off the bottom half for each pearl, seal the base with a MOP backing, then set them as mabe pearls?

DK :))
 
I have no practical suggestions to offer, but from a design standpoint, how about setting the pearls in a claw (and basket) type setting, instead of the typical cup setting you do with pearls?

I’m expressing myself badly but I saw this woman wearing these gorgeous Pearl studs once (hers were both white SS though, would be my guess) and they had a very (intentionally prominent) claw prong setting, with micropave set into the claws. The “basket” too was like a trellis, but not symmetrical, more organic. It was gorgeous.
 
This is very tricky. the tail on the pearl will probably cause it to not sit flat on your ear. I'm not even sure you could use a pearl cup on it ... unless you can have it ground down ? You are definitely going to need to talk to a jeweller about how to manage these as the shape is an issue. I always recommend a High Button shape for large pearls so there is more contact with the earlobe due to the 'flatter' bottom. But the Button shape needs to be chosen carefully as not all are suitable.
Talk to a jeweller.
Thanks @katbran , and yes, the tail will definitely be ground down :)

Thinking aloud, and I do not know if it is doable, however, how about cutting off the bottom half for each pearl, seal the base with a MOP backing, then set them as mabe pearls?

DK :))
Thanks @dk168 but that’s probably a no go for me as I’d prefer to keep these as in-tact as possible!

I have no practical suggestions to offer, but from a design standpoint, how about setting the pearls in a claw (and basket) type setting, instead of the typical cup setting you do with pearls?

I’m expressing myself badly but I saw this woman wearing these gorgeous Pearl studs once (hers were both white SS though, would be my guess) and they had a very (intentionally prominent) claw prong setting, with micropave set into the claws. The “basket” too was like a trellis, but not symmetrical, more organic. It was gorgeous.
Ooh that’s a very creative and interesting idea! I’m gonna do some googling on this - thanks @AllAboardTheBlingTrain !
 
Thanks @katbran , and yes, the tail will definitely be ground down :)


Thanks @dk168 but that’s probably a no go for me as I’d prefer to keep these as in-tact as possible!


Ooh that’s a very creative and interesting idea! I’m gonna do some googling on this - thanks @AllAboardTheBlingTrain !

Here is the closest example I could find of what I meant, though these are rings:

IMG_6696.jpeg

IMG_6695.jpeg
I feel like you have such an eclectic, different style - none of your pieces are the type to be owned by others in the form that you have them. I’d love to see you experiment and do something interesting with your studs!
 
My only hopefully helpful comment is that I would prefer the settings to be the same so if one requires a deeper cup I’d do the same for the other. I’d also try to minimize metal to keep them lighter.
 
Here is the closest example I could find of what I meant, though these are rings:

IMG_6696.jpeg

IMG_6695.jpeg
I feel like you have such an eclectic, different style - none of your pieces are the type to be owned by others in the form that you have them. I’d love to see you experiment and do something interesting with your studs!

These are stunning!! And the possibilities are endless, which is terrible for decision making :lol-2: thank you for the compliment too :kiss2:


My only hopefully helpful comment is that I would prefer the settings to be the same so if one requires a deeper cup I’d do the same for the other. I’d also try to minimize metal to keep them lighter.
Great points! They’re already 6g per pearl so the design can’t be too fancy…
 
I went to Hongqiao pearl market in Beijing today and one of the vendors (who sold me my very first strand) helped me make the studs.

In summary, I decided to go for:
1. Simple studs rather than omega backs, and will be using large anti-droop earring backs (I don’t know the actual terminology for them!), to keep the weight and the price down
2. Large 18k WG cups
3. The drill holes are also higher to prevent droop

The process was fairly straightforward for those interested:
1. Grind down the tail on the WSS - this revealed a black “line” and the vendor said this is part of normal growth/sometimes dirt or debris can get inside the pearl. Just wondering if anyone can confirm this?
2. Mark on drill holes and drill
3. Stick on cups
4. Bend the ear pins so that it’s perpendicular to the front-facing position of the pearl

Here are the results! I know they’re not a perfect match from a shape perspective but I think it’s close enough ;)2

One thing: they are heavy though! These can only be occasion studs rather than all day everyday studs, but I knew that when I bought the pearls. The Tahitian is 6.0g and the WSS 6.15g, for a total of 12g for the pair (the 18k pins added 0.15g per stud).


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They really turned out great!
And what a simple solution.
 
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