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Please help me design a home for this black opal!

LilAlex

Ideal_Rock
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Inken at Enhoerning found this lovely and somewhat subtle untreated black crystal opal and I couldn't say no. It's from a vintage ring that was scrapped and the opal was then re-fashioned by an expert in Germany. It's big (20 mm in longest dimension) and only blue/violet flashes (no orange/red/green) so it has an almost-Goth/Halloween look to it. I'm hoping to design something for a mid-20s DD who is not Goth but has funky/eclectic taste. She mixes high and low and loves big cabochon rings. But she is a little hard on rings (as we all are in our family) so as much as I would love to put this in a ring, it may make more sense as a pendant.

Here is the opal in a few lights. Indoors in low light, it looks like a giant, dark Burma sapphire (!) -- meaning it's hard to see too much but definitely looks uniform deep blue. My DSLR photos below make it look more purple than blue but it is fairly monochromatic. (It was not priced like a full color-play black opal and Inken cautioned me that, however "cool" I found it, it was not a "collector-grade" black opal -- but for this have-only-ever-seen-white-opal novice, it knocked me out.) From the side, it is almost colorless and it is quite "tall" (thick).

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The GIA report:

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It reminds me a little of this one from Lang:

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For a ring:

If I went with a ring, and I have reservations about that, I was thinking a simple, stout white-metal bezel with a heavy shank. I think that would be pretty well protected and could "pass" for cheap jewelry when she wants it to. The risk is that it will look like the "mood rings" of my childhood (see below)!

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Ideally, I would love a halo that echoes, in whole or in part, the colors of the center stone but I think that would be too fragile. One of you found or owns an amazing Art Deco example with rubies (IIRC) at the "cardinal points" but I was only able to see these examples:

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For a pendant, I can confirm that it retains its color when hung "vertically"; however, she does not want the traditional charm-dangling-from-a-fine-chain "V." If worn as a pendant, she would prefer something better-integrated into a more architectural-type chain. I just don't see it set E/W, in part because it is so deep that I think it would tend to flop down.

So I'm looking for guidance on a safe(ish) ring or a more contemporary pendant. If it were for my wife (who has grown weary of my gem exploits), I would love to halo it with blue sapphire rounds, or white diamonds with blue sapphires at the cardinal points. But for this DD, I may need more out-of-the-box creativity. (She will love whatever I come up with but I am hoping to incorporate her design sensibility -- she is very fashionable on a budget with lots of thrifting paired with the very occasional full-price signature piece.)
 
Omg that is so cool I love it! I was never into opals that much and never seen one with only blue/purple, will have to look into it now! Can't help much with setting sorry, because if it were me I'd just halo the heck out of it :cool2: :lol:
 
I like the pendant with a halo with coloured stones in NESW, probably with round pink-red cabochons.

DK :love:
 
I feel like this stone would suit a pendant more than a ring, given everything you said, though I love the inspo ring with the paraiba halo!

I would look to art deco pendant necklaces for inspiration for the chain aspect, and then just design a similar halo to hold the opal.

IMG_7242.jpeg

Like the chain here, for example. You could simplify it a bit (and don’t need to make it diamond studded!) - it would look very cool even as a metal/milgrained chain but would be very expensive in gold. Still, you could achieve the look with silver, if that’s something you’re amenable to.
 
I would look to art deco pendant necklaces for inspiration for the chain aspect, and then just design a similar halo to hold the opal.

Oof that's spectacular but will far exceed the"construction budget," I'm afraid!

She sent me these examples but I can't quite see it, especially with white metal and not-insane budget. I guess the last one if the easiest to translate.


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That opal sounds amazing! I love the idea of using it as a pendant, especially with its gothic vibe. A geometric setting could really highlight its shape and height, and a modern architectural chain would add a unique touch. Plus, it’ll be sturdy enough for your daughter’s style. Can’t wait to see the final design!
 
Oof that's spectacular but will far exceed the"construction budget," I'm afraid!

She sent me these examples but I can't quite see it, especially with white metal and not-insane budget. I guess the last one if the easiest to translate.


IMG_3588.jpg

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Can I throw in a left field suggestion which is what I would do with that gorgeous opal?

Id do a necklace, not a pendant, a la Princess D’s sapphire choker. Maybe even with black pearls to make it more edgy!

IMG_7244.jpeg

Ok, digression over!

How about an adaptation of something like this? I love the black enamel touch:

IMG_7245.jpeg
 
I prefer these settings for such bold and unique opal.

A ring version of this


or

 
Hmm, I’m thinking a chain (or you could do multiple thin chains) with Amethysts integrated. Maybe not the exact same as, but drawing on the concept of DBTY (but with Amethysts) instead of diamonds. A black spinel rondelle necklace would also work
 
From the classic to the bizarre:
OpalRings.jpg

There's a basic problem with a ring. It would be good to show off the high dome, but that would leave it exposed.
 
I prefer these settings for such bold and unique opal.

I'm sure she'd love either of those (!) but, absent a David Webb budget, not sure how we'd get there! The opal is a little too subtle, imo, for a super-bold "look-at-me" frame. More of a "Ooooh...what's going on there?" vibe. Maybe a ring is the easiest solution.

There's a basic problem with a ring. It would be good to show off the high dome, but that would leave it exposed.

Yes, exactly. She has mostly struggled with the durability of the shank and not so much bumping it. I think it's mostly carrying a backpack or grocery sacks, etc. She has never damaged the head of a ring but has bent the shank out of round on multiple rings and even split the palm-side shank of one super-thin, well-loved antique ring (a big fire-sale oxblood coral that I posted a year ago?).

About a ring, I also had some reservations about water and hand-washing -- she needs to do a lot of that. It's a black crystal opal (like an Australian opal with no potch on the back) and not a hydrophane but I'm not sure how "bulletproof" if will be in day-to-day life. That was one of the things pushing me to a pendant. A ring that you have to take off to wash your hands will just get left on the edge of the sink in some public or work-place bathroom, imo.

Nice to see that example with YG with a blue/violet opal since I had mostly ruled that out. And, if I'm confined to white metal, it's hard to envision a bold white-metal link chain that does not look like a dog collar!
 
The pic is just to show my idea of offset or asymmetrical side stones or whatever you'd call it, maybe some small diamonds or other stones at the top right and lower left, as shown. Imo it's not classic but not extremely quirky, either.

For a pendant, I'd do east-west, attached to a medium-thickness chain at both edges, with the chain also adjustable so it could be worn at a few different lengths, depending on the neckline of whatever she's wearing, like 16-19 inches.

Also, what about making it convertible? Necklace to ring or to bracelet. I think it's always more fun when you get to see what you're wearing, but I also get wanting to protect a softer stone. So that might be an in-between solution?

For "damage control" you could also consider having it made in silver or other less expensive white metal, so the cost is lower in the first place. And/or have the opal prong-set. That way, if the opal ever does get murdered, you could have a mined or lab stone cut to fit, and still use the setting.

I can't wait to see what you do with it! :)


offset diamonds.jpeg
 
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What about a pendant with a high carat bezel or faux bezel within an oxided silver outer rim/bezel and an oxidized silver chain? Lean into the gothic vibe.
 
Wanted to provide some happy follow-up here!

Inken did a lovely job bezel-setting the opal (9-ct black crystal opal that we bought from her on a bit of a whim) in 18K YG. I initially wanted a more minimalist white-metal setting but Inken convinced me that for DD's demographic (!), YG and bolder was the way to go (and my daughter concurred). My original design is the last photo but we went even bolder with the bezel.

She really wanted YG and a paperclip chain and Inken found a substantial one that matched the heft of the bezel and dimensions of the stone. I have not seen it in person (she now lives far from "home") but my daughter absolutely loves it! The opal is more blue than purple but every photo -- of mine or Inken's -- shows it as purple.

The bezel was wax-carved and cast and has kind of a sunburst/rays pattern on the back. (I only have a photo of the wax which is not super-helpful here!)

I wanted something that could be choker-length if she wanted that since she is petite and I worried it could be flippy when worn longer -- but it seems very stable. The total length is 18" and the great thing about a paperclip chain is that she can make it any length at all (see chain photos).

All photos are from Inken or her IG except the last two. The second-to-last one is cropped from a quick pic my daughter grabbed when she first opened the box. (I assume she'll wear it shorter with an open collar; she initially didn't want too much of a drop.)

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Oh my stars... stop it!! I guess I was MIA when you originally posted this thread. Frankly, I was sold at "Halloween." And the profile of the stone looks like a spooky mountain forest. LOVE. You and Inken did the stone justice with a simple, but oh-so-chic design (you were wise to choose a pendant, no doubt). It looks fantastic on your DD with her beautiful golden hair. Kudos, my friend!!
 
Stunning! What lucky girl to be gifted such a treasure!
 
Gorgeous!!! :love:
 
Wanted to provide some happy follow-up here!

Inken did a lovely job bezel-setting the opal (9-ct black crystal opal that we bought from her on a bit of a whim) in 18K YG. I initially wanted a more minimalist white-metal setting but Inken convinced me that for DD's demographic (!), YG and bolder was the way to go (and my daughter concurred). My original design is the last photo but we went even bolder with the bezel.

She really wanted YG and a paperclip chain and Inken found a substantial one that matched the heft of the bezel and dimensions of the stone. I have not seen it in person (she now lives far from "home") but my daughter absolutely loves it! The opal is more blue than purple but every photo -- of mine or Inken's -- shows it as purple.

The bezel was wax-carved and cast and has kind of a sunburst/rays pattern on the back. (I only have a photo of the wax which is not super-helpful here!)

I wanted something that could be choker-length if she wanted that since she is petite and I worried it could be flippy when worn longer -- but it seems very stable. The total length is 18" and the great thing about a paperclip chain is that she can make it any length at all (see chain photos).

All photos are from Inken or her IG except the last two. The second-to-last one is cropped from a quick pic my daughter grabbed when she first opened the box. (I assume she'll wear it shorter with an open collar; she initially didn't want too much of a drop.)

Screen Shot 2025-03-08 at 2.14.57 PM.png

Screen Shot 2025-03-08 at 2.14.38 PM.png

Screen Shot 2025-03-08 at 2.14.00 PM.png

Screen Shot 2025-03-08 at 2.14.14 PM.png

Screen Shot 2025-03-08 at 2.13.19 PM.png

Screen Shot 2025-03-08 at 2.26.31 PM.png

im so sorry i missed this thread before
it looked like it had been a ton of fun

as much as i loved the goth inspiration photos and also some of @Starstruck8 's ideas and not forgetting @AllAboardTheBlingTrain 's Princess Di's multi strand
i love the finished pendant :kiss2: :appl: :kiss2: :appl: :kiss2: :appl: :kiss2: :appl:
i hope your DD is careful with it and enjoys wearing it
 
It looks fantastic on your DD with her beautiful golden hair.

Thank you, @Autumn in New England -- I 'll be sure to tell her :kiss2:

What lucky girl to be gifted such a treasure!

Yes. I feel a little sheepish. She's a good "kid" and frugal and works hard for what she has.

It’s a great result, I agree going a bit heavier on the metal was the right choice

Thank you -- and thank all of you for your vision!

Gorgeous!!! :love:

Thank you! Really happy with the result!

i hope your DD is careful with it and enjoys wearing it

Yes! Fingers crossed. Better a pendant than a ring. She's not uncareful (careless?) -- just has a very busy and active life. OTOH, it is just a thing and I don't want her to panic if it gets damaged, etc. I want her to be able to enjoy in. We have a thing or two that are "too precious," although I have (almost) come to accept that all jewelry is ephemeral.
 
No I wasn’t being passive aggressive lol I really think it’s wonderful to buy this for your child.
 
Such a stunning stone and the design definitely did it justice!
 
Gorgeous! What a wonderful gift!! I love this sort of opal---dark and mysterious.

The most glamorous shot is the one of her wearing it. That picture would make great advertising for Inken. :)
 
HI:

Gorgeous!! Well done!!! And I agree with the others--glamorous shot with her enviable hair!

cheers--Sharon
 
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