Please help! If you were in the market for a RB ~1.25 carat, what would you buy?

[Overwhelmeddealhunter]

Hello all,
Overwhelmed over here and in dire need of some guidance! This website has provided so much education, but has also paralyzed me with anxiety that we will make a mistake and not choose the best or will have to spend more to get what we want. My boyfriend and I have been researching diamonds for the last few months and are looking to make a purchase in the next month or so. I know everyone says they want the best bang for their buck, but I really will not be able to let him pull the trigger and pay for the diamond until I am positive it’s the best diamond for the price and not just “too good to be true” on paper, as I am already feeling guilty for making him spend so much on a ring even though we can afford it. I want this to be my forever ring and would rather not upgrade later, so we really want to do this right the first time. So that is why I have decided to reach out to all of you and am hoping for a miracle that someone will respond and guide us with some of the best selections out there. I have looked at WF, BN, BGD, WPD and JA websites so far but there are so many diamonds to process and eliminate from.

We are in search of:

Round Brilliant, price range for diamond only $6,500-7,500. Lower end for smaller carat, upper for larger.

~1.24-1.29+ carat, Ideal cut, excellent polish and symmetry, VS2+ (even though I read something is eye clean, when I see the diamond riddled with imperfections on the report, it scares me away. Should I stop eliminating rings covered with feathers, clouds, needles, or surface graining, etc. all along the table, and just relax since it is eye-clean?), color G-I (I will have a gold solitaire setting so color is not as important), none to faint fluorescence
-HCA score of less than 2 per the recommendations on here- I have used my 3 free tests on all devices so no longer able to check this on my own. This tool did eliminate all of our possible choices so I am thankful that it helped us not make a mistake
-I have used the criteria I found on here for ideal cut %’s for table, depth, and angles when researching as well.

I should also note that I am fine with a pre-owned diamond if the price is right and have done a little searching in the for-sale section but haven’t seen anything that fits what I want yet.

If you’ve made it this far in reading, thank you! If you are willing to send links our way or know of anyone selling a diamond that fits the criteria above for an even better price, you are our hero and we will be eternally grateful!

 

[whitewave]

I think the 3 free HCA searches are for trade members only?

Did you see any from HPD, BG or WF that fit your budget and caught your eye? Those are the easiest websites to deal with.

Also, check Martin at usacertifieddiamonds.com He understands HCA and tends to have less expensive pricing because you will likely have to call him. I don’t think he has a trade up policy, but since you say this is your forever ring... that doesn’t matter.

Also, B2cjewels.com

 

[tyty333]

Your budget and wishes/specs are extremely tight.

 

[whitewave]

USA certified diamonds. You may need to drop to an eyeclean SI 1. If Martin can’t get your ideal size for what you want to spend, then you are going to have to give on color (like I/J) or clarity.

FWIW, for the search, I stopped at an H color.

 

[sledge]

Don't sweat the HCA scores. If you find a stone you like, post it and myself or others will make sure you get an HCA score before you buy.

FYI, because the HCA is doing a mathematical calculation of the stone proportions and how they work with each other, you can shortlist stones based on the following criteria and most will hit an HCA 2 or less.

• 54-57 table
• 60-62.4 depth (prefer <62)
• 34-35 crown (maybe 35.5, if paired with 40.6 pavilion)
• 40.6-40.9 pavilion (maybe 41, if paired with 34 crown)
• 75-80 lower girdle facets (aka LGF)(many prefer 75-77)
• AGS or GIA certified only
• Ensure there is an inverse relationship between the crown & pavilion angles. So steep crown/shallow pavilion or vice versa. As a cheat sheet, GIA combos such as 34/40.9, 34.5/40.7, 34.5/40.8 & 35/40.6 tend to work well.

In regards to clarity, it depends on you. Some people need a mind clean stone, and others just care about eye clean. I personally prefer VS2+ stones myself but admit I struggle with the mind clean aspect. Knowing this upfront allows me to either accept sacrificing one of the other C's so I get the clarity I seek, or increasing the budget.

I also think it's important to define "eye clean" to YOU. Everyone has different visual acuity. There is NO industry standard definition of this term, although several vendors seem to conclude 10" away looking at the top of the diamond in good lighting and 20/20 vision. When I searched, I narrowed that criteria to 6" away from top or sides with good lighting and 20/20 vision. You don't necessarily have to be so critical, but it is very important you provide a definition of "eye clean" so you and the vendor are communicating on the same wave length.

All that said, I would consider an SI2+ stone from select vendors. For instance, WF, HPD and BGD have trained gemologists that provide a fair and unbiased review of their stones even if it costs them the sale. It's very hard to find a good eye clean SI2 stone, but HPD in particular have a good reputation for doing so. It's fairly easy to find a good eye clean SI1 stone when looking at any of these vendors.

But as you begin to open up your search to virtual inventory diamonds offered through BN, FourMines, etc. then I become less comfortable with SI1 & SI2 stones. This isn't to say good ones don't exist, because they do. In fact I recall reading about some SI2's a month or so back that was quite the find. The difference is these guys don't actually own the stones and can't go to the vault to pull the stone and analyze it for you. They have to contact their supplier (many times overseas) and rely on information their supplier provides them. At which point analyzing the clarity plot becomes more critical IMO.

But honestly, as you begin to narrow your search, make sure you ask about this specifically so people here can respond with more details. Alas, keep in mind one a negative and positive of online shopping is magnified videos & pictures. IMO, this over exaggerates clarity to some degree which sometimes makes people feel like they "need" to bump up clarity.

 

[Overwhelmeddealhunter]

Your budget and wishes/specs are extremely tight.

story of my life . We've been noticing that in the searches though, and the responses here are making us realize we will have to broaden criteria or raise price

 

[sledge]

A few super ideal options for you....

WF ACA 1.238 I SI1 @ $7,866 wire
https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-4097155.htm

56.1 table, 61.6 depth, 34.5 crown, 40.8 pavilion & 76 LGF

Can you say, sparkle bomb? Dreamy proportions with some big fat arrows to boot! The stone is an SI1 but the webpage is stating eye clean. Looking at the clarity plot, I'd ask WF to pull and confirm the stone is indeed eye clean. Maybe have them take some extra photos or videos to your satisfaction.

HPD CBI 1.30 I SI2 @ $7,658 wire
https://www.hpdiamonds.com/en-us/diamonddetail/HPD10759

Unfortunately there isn't much to report on this stone yet, as it's still being crafted. However, it has a little more size but at the expense of being an SI2 clarity. I know, I'm going the wrong direction. Before you give me the bird, keep in mind that the cutter (CBI) has a knack of selecting rough where they can get the cut they want and not have nasty visible inclusions. The retailer (HPD) will examine the stone and ensure it's 100% eye clean before they sell it. If it's not, they will tell you. But it could be a tricky way to have your cake and eat it too, if you are willing to trust them.

 

[Overwhelmeddealhunter]

Don't sweat the HCA scores. If you find a stone you like, post it and myself or others will make sure you get an HCA score before you buy.

FYI, because the HCA is doing a mathematical calculation of the stone proportions and how they work with each other, you can shortlist stones based on the following criteria and most will hit an HCA 2 or less.

• 54-57 table
• 60-62.4 depth (prefer <62)
• 34-35 crown (maybe 35.5, if paired with 40.6 pavilion)
• 40.6-40.9 pavilion (maybe 41, if paired with 34 crown)
• 75-80 lower girdle facets (aka LGF)(many prefer 75-77)
• AGS or GIA certified only
• Ensure there is an inverse relationship between the crown & pavilion angles. So steep crown/shallow pavilion or vice versa. As a cheat sheet, GIA combos such as 34/40.9, 34.5/40.7, 34.5/40.8 & 35/40.6 tend to work well.

In regards to clarity, it depends on you. Some people need a mind clean stone, and others just care about eye clean. I personally prefer VS2+ stones myself but admit I struggle with the mind clean aspect. Knowing this upfront allows me to either accept sacrificing one of the other C's so I get the clarity I seek, or increasing the budget.

I also think it's important to define "eye clean" to YOU. Everyone has different visual acuity. There is NO industry standard definition of this term, although several vendors seem to conclude 10" away looking at the top of the diamond in good lighting and 20/20 vision. When I searched, I narrowed that criteria to 6" away from top or sides with good lighting and 20/20 vision. You don't necessarily have to be so critical, but it is very important you provide a definition of "eye clean" so you and the vendor are communicating on the same wave length.

All that said, I would consider an SI2+ stone from select vendors. For instance, WF, HPD and BGD have trained gemologists that provide a fair and unbiased review of their stones even if it costs them the sale. It's very hard to find a good eye clean SI2 stone, but HPD in particular have a good reputation for doing so. It's fairly easy to find a good eye clean SI1 stone when looking at any of these vendors.

But as you begin to open up your search to virtual inventory diamonds offered through BN, FourMines, etc. then I become less comfortable with SI1 & SI2 stones. This isn't to say good ones don't exist, because they do. In fact I recall reading about some SI2's a month or so back that was quite the find. The difference is these guys don't actually own the stones and can't go to the vault to pull the stone and analyze it for you. They have to contact their supplier (many times overseas) and rely on information their supplier provides them. At which point analyzing the clarity plot becomes more critical IMO.

But honestly, as you begin to narrow your search, make sure you ask about this specifically so people here can respond with more details. Alas, keep in mind one a negative and positive of online shopping is magnified videos & pictures. IMO, this over exaggerates clarity to some degree which sometimes makes people feel like they "need" to bump up clarity.

Thank you for your thorough response!! We will get our top 3 together and I will post on the site for opinions. Really appreciate you taking the time to help!

 

[Overwhelmeddealhunter]

USA certified diamonds. You may need to drop to an eyeclean SI 1. If Martin can’t get your ideal size for what you want to spend, then you are going to have to give on color (like I/J) or clarity.

FWIW, for the search, I stopped at an H color.

Thank you! Looking into these now! Appreciate your taking the time to help and detailed response!!

 

[sledge]

Another one I found using RC.

GIA XXX 1.27 I VS1 @ $7,310 wire
https://enchanteddiamonds.com/diamonds/view/R127-0363737Z1?utm_source=rarecarat&utm_medium=cpc

56 table, 61.1 depth, 34.5 crown, 40.8 pavilion & 75 LGF. Pulls a 1.1 HCA.

Proportions and HCA look very promising. If interested, put the stone on hold and ask they provide pictures, video, ASET, idealscope and H&A images. ED is one of the virtual inventory suppliers that can sometimes provide that full array of images, although not always. I think it depends who their supplier is.

 

[sledge]

So a quick lesson. I love the 34.5/40.8 combo like above. The proportions look rather awesome to be honest. However, in my search for you, I saw another stone that perked my attention. It's listed below:

GIA XXX 1.35 I VS1 @ $7,805 wire
https://www.yadavjewelry.com/diamond/round-diamond-1.35-carat-i-vs1-yd6024198

If you try to run it through the HCA you get the following error.



More importantly, when you look at the additional images that Yadav posted, you will see there is some leakage in the stone around the 10 o'clock position (white spots), giving merit to the warning the HCA calculator popped up. Also there is some minor imperfections happening in the 8-9 o'clock position on the outside of the stone where you see the additional blotches of green -- not a rejection type thing, just oddities.

I only use this as a reference because many times when shopping virtual inventory stones, you have limited data to go upon. Usually proportions from the GIA certificate and HCA score. I've seen stones pop an HCA score.

This isn't meant to scare you. But to let you know there is some merit in requesting these additional images, as they just help further confirm the performance of the stone in question.

Should you choose to limit your searches to virtual inventory selections due to price constraints, and a large ask, then I'd recommend you consider talking to Yeukitel at IDJ. He has access to a plethora of stones, and the experience and knowledge to help pick a "Pricescope quality" stone. In short, he is familiar with us and our pickiness, lol.

More importantly, he genuinely cares about people and offers great pricing. With the added bonus of bringing in virtual inventory stones to his shop, and providing SARIN reports and a full array of performance and symmetry images so you can confirm what you are buying before you pull the trigger. He's a valuable resource IMO, as using him allows him to provide the warm fuzzies and minimize your purchase risk.

https://idjewelry.com/

 

[lovedogs]

Yup. I 100% recommend ID jewelry to anyone on a budget or with specific contraints. They are amazing. Ask for yeukiteil and he will take care of you

 

[AV_]

It seems that two dozen HCA checks will cost one of us $10 ... www

I am only finding one stone to test: WWW