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Platinum vs 19k white gold engagement ring

ind_engineer

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
7
Hey everyone,

I'll be purchasing a custom engagement ring, the problem I'm currently facing is if I should choose a platinum setting or 19k white gold. The difference in cost isn't a deciding factor.

Initially I was going to be going with platinum. Although the jeweler I "think" I may be going with is recommending 19k white gold over platinum. I've been trying to research 19k white gold but it's difficult to find a lot of info on it.

I'm in Canada and it seems like 19k white gold is more popular here compared to other places.

The alloys the white gold will be mixed with is palladium. The reason why the jeweler recommends it (although will do platinum if requested) are due to the following:

- No rhodium plating will be needed so there will never be a "yellowing" of the band
- It is a super white metal and will be whiter and shinier than platinum
- The palladium mixture will make the band harder then if it were 18k white gold
- It is better for the environment as getting platinum from the ground is very harsh (haven't looked this up to verify it)

Does anyone have any experience with 19k white gold? From what the jeweler told me and from what I've researched it's making me lean towards 19k white gold over platinum. One of my concerns about platinum is that you need to get it polished regularly or it will start to look dull. My girlfriend (soon to be fiancee) said she doesn't want to have to go out of her way to have a ring polished every couple months.

Any insight into this would be very much appreciated!! Thank you in advance!
 

teobdl

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
986

ind_engineer

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
7
Thanks for the reply!

From my understanding, the 19k white gold isn't made with nickel and is mixed with palladium, giving it a natural white colour therefore there will be no need for rhodium plating (brand new or over time). Is this wrong?
 

artdecolover71

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
1,330
I love platinum-every thing about it and only do white gold when there is a cost factor.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,198
If it has pave, and your jeweler is th actual bench person (not owner or manager) go with his recommendation. If h is not the bench jeweler ask him to see what th actual bench manufacturing the piece recommendeds for your design. There is very little one size fits all with jewery. What metal or manufacturing process ie best from a durability standpoint depends on the deisgn.
 

ind_engineer

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
7
Thanks for the reply!

Yeah, the ring has pave and the person giving the recommendation was the bench jeweler.
 

MollyMalone

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
3,084
Here's a post from 2 months ago where I included links to charts, reflecting the results of objective testing for "whiteness", re various white metals & to PS threads with photos. Scroll down just a bit in that same May 2016 thread -- 19K White Gold a true white metal? -- to see cflutist's useful pic.
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/19k-white-gold-a-true-white-metal.222703/#post-4028825#p4028825']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/19k-white-gold-a-true-white-metal.222703/#post-4028825#p4028825[/URL]

Unlike many PSers, I am not a fan of platinum. Most of my jewelry is pink or yellow gold & the few white gold pieces I've selected for myself are all unplated because I don't like the starker "white" of rhodium plated pieces with my skin tone. But it's your future wife's preferences that should hold more sway than mine ;)) Has she tried on rings that are similar but made of the different metal alloys under consideration to get an idea of what she likes best?
 

ind_engineer

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
7
Thanks for the info Gypsy and MollyMalone! Both of you gave me great information to read through.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,631
Here is what a pave master ring maker, Victor Canera, says, and what most high end ring makers say:

https://www.victorcanera.com/education/jewelry/platinum-vs-gold

"The question arises on many occasions, which precious metal we recommend for our jewelry. Simply put we recommend that our clients choose Platinum. The reasons for this recommendation are numerous.

Color
The common misconception is that white gold is actually white. White gold in its bare form is of a pale yellow color whereas Platinum is more of a pure white tone. In order to achieve this pure whiteness white gold is dipped in a liquid plating compound called Rhodium. Rhodium plating wears away though over time and gold's yellowish color underneath starts to become apparent. Platinum in and of itself is white and in time achieves an attractive grayish patina.

Strength
Platinum is roughly 60% more dense than gold. This is the reason why the same design in Platinum will be heavier than gold. Although gold can be considered stronger in the sense of it being harder to bend, the density of Platinum and its unlikelihood of wearing away from daily wear gives it the advantage. This density can play a vital role in parts of a jewel such as prongs that hold a center stone or beading in a micro pave piece.

Durability
Platinum by its nature is more of a "chewy" metal as opposed to gold which is more brittle. Both metals scratch over time with everyday wear but with Platinum these scratches don't remove metal content from a jewel. Polishing or re-polishing of a platinum jewel will result in almost no loss of weight or metal content whereas with gold, a jewel might lose roughly 10% of its weight. Therefore a Platinum jewel can be re-polished much more safely than a gold piece. Gold pieces lose much more metal content after a re-polishing compared to Platinum. This could be vital in areas such as prongs or beading on a pave piece which after re-polishing could severely weaken these prongs. A Platinum piece therefore will better stand the test of time and will be more durable than a gold jewel.

Manufacture
Victor Canera's uniquely hand forged jewels yield a better jewel with Platinum. Platinum is malleable and keeps forms. This is advantageous when you're bending, rolling and pulling the numerous metal parts comprising a piece through rolling mills and strainers. Hand forged pieces are comprised of numerous parts that then need to be assembled and soldered together. Platinum's localized absorption of heat allows for more freedom during soldering without the worry of melting the rest of the jewel during construction. Platinum does not oxidize during manufacturing. There is a huge variety of alloys mixed to create white gold and white gold solder. On a white gold jewel therefore it is almost impossible to match solder color to the piece it's being soldered to. Soldered areas on a gold jewel might result in areas of visible discoloration where solder color doesn't precisely match the base metal. Since platinum is of more a white tone and the alloys combined with it are more of a uniform variety, soldered joints are much less apparent and discoloration is not an issue.

Platinum Mixture
Victor Canera uses a 90% Platinum, 10% Iridium mixture. This mixture, through our accumulated experience, is the most attractive white tone and most durable, scratch resistant of platinum mixtures. 18k gold is also used when needed mixed with various alloys."
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
5,022
Ask about resizing also. I don't know about 19k, but palladium is difficult to resize per my jeweller. Platinum and gold can both be sized.
 
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