Platinum Halo Setting: 10% iridium alloy poor quality?

[Beatrice09]

I want to choose between Victor Canera and Steven Kirsch for a precise platinum halo setting.
Victor Canera uses 10% iridium alloy, but I found this on Steven Kirsch’s website: “Platinum may also be alloyed with iridium, cobalt, or copper; however, it is not advisable to use 10% iridium alloy when making a piece of jewelry, since that is considered poor quality.”
I never heard of that, which option should I choose? Is 10% iridium alloy really poor quality according to SK?

 

[distracts]

10% iridium is the classic platinum alloy - it’s what most jewelers use and what most antique platinum jewelry is. Most of not all of my platinum is this alloy.

Here is Mark Morrell’s page on why he uses it:
http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm

I’m sure SK has his reasons for not liking it but idk that I’d consider it “poor quality.” If you’re picking a good jeweler, which both VC and SK are, I’d trust that the jeweler is picking the metal best suited to their process.

 

[whitewave]

10% iridium is used by many high end vendors with excellent results.

 

[whitewave]

I asked about alloys recently:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/question-about-platinum-and-cvb-id.249833/

High Performance diamonds and Brian Gavin Diamonds use platinum and ruthenium. CVB ID uses iridium.

For the record, I trust Victor Canera with whatever he says he uses.

I don’t know if SK is cast or hand forged etc. someone might have an opinion based on how he/she makes jewelry.

 

[Lisa Loves Shiny]

Today I am wearing an antique ring that is a 90/10 platinum/iridium mix. It is approximately 160 years old. I have two others with the same mix that are between 100 to 150 years old. The rings are light weight and strong and have stood the test of time. Just my 2 cents.

 

[distracts]

Here are some other pages comparing alloys:

https://www.ganoksin.com/article/platinum-alloys-features-benefits/

https://www.whiteflash.com/about-diamonds/jewelry/an-overview-of-common-alloys.htm

950 plat/5 ruthenium and 900 plat/10 iridium are the alloys I see most jewelers using and I wouldn’t have any issue with a jeweler using either one. If they were trying to use another I would probably ask about it. But those two are so common that I assume choice by the jeweler is down to personal preference and manufacturing technique.

 

[Beatrice09]

10% iridium is the classic platinum alloy - it’s what most jewelers use and what most antique platinum jewelry is. Most of not all of my platinum is this alloy.

Here is Mark Morrell’s page on why he uses it:
http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm

I’m sure SK has his reasons for not liking it but idk that I’d consider it “poor quality.” If you’re picking a good jeweler, which both VC and SK are, I’d trust that the jeweler is picking the metal best suited to their process.

Hey there, thank you for your comment I just read MM’s article and am now leaning towards the 10% iridium alloy tho I do like some of SK’s designs. Not sure why SK said it’s poor quality bc MM clearly stated it’s quite excellent. I agree that every jeweler has a fav alloy but saying it’s poor quality is another thing.

 

[Beatrice09]

I asked about alloys recently:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/question-about-platinum-and-cvb-id.249833/

High Performance diamonds and Brian Gavin Diamonds use platinum and ruthenium. CVB ID uses iridium.

For the record, I trust Victor Canera with whatever he says he uses.

I don’t know if SK is cast or hand forged etc. someone might have an opinion based on how he/she makes jewelry.

Thank you for linking your post! I’m allergic to a lot of metals too so I choose platinum for most everyday jewelry. I trust every reputable jeweler with his/her fav metal alloy during years of practice - it’s exactly bc I trust both VC and SK so much that the fact SK basically said VC’s alloy is poor quality makes me wonder why lol

 

[Beatrice09]

Today I am wearing an antique ring that is a 90/10 platinum/iridium mix. It is approximately 160 years old. I have two others with the same mix that are between 100 to 150 years old. The rings are light weight and strong and have stood the test of time. Just my 2 cents.

Wow! Seems this alloy is for generations to enjoy! I’m leaning towards this alloy as well and looking into if it’s lighter in weight than others haha

 

[LightBright]

Hey there, thank you for your comment I just read MM’s article and am now leaning towards the 10% iridium alloy tho I do like some of SK’s designs. Not sure why SK said it’s poor quality bc MM clearly stated it’s quite excellent. I agree that every jeweler has a fav alloy but saying it’s poor quality is another thing.

FYI, I’ve asked Steven Kirsch in the past when I asked him for a quote once if he could do Platinum Iridium instead of Platinum Ruthenium and he was fine with it. If you love his work (I agree he is a pave master) please don’t hesitate to ask him directly if he can do Platinum Iridium 900/100. FYI, I don’t notice that it’s “lighter” weight but Steven could tell you.

 

[Beatrice09]

FYI, I’ve asked Steven Kirsch in the past when I asked him for a quote once if he could do Platinum Iridium instead of Platinum Ruthenium and he was fine with it. If you love his work (I agree he is a pave master) please don’t hesitate to ask him directly if he can do Platinum Iridium 900/100. FYI, I don’t notice that it’s “lighter” weight but Steven could tell you.

Thank you so much! I’ll ask him about it. I just was wondering if he believed the 10% iridium alloy “poor quality” why he agreed to use it? If he’s okay with using it for his customers why he said it’s poor quality? Just doesn’t make sense to me.

 

[LightBright]

Thank you so much! I’ll ask him about it. I just was wondering if he believed the 10% iridium alloy “poor quality” why he agreed to use it? If he’s okay with using it for his customers why he said it’s poor quality? Just doesn’t make sense to me.

There’s a platinum description page on Mark Morrell’s website that describes why he uses platinum iridium 900/100. Suffice it to say that Mark Morrell is known for his “liquid platinum” craftsmanship of the highest order. 900/100 or 10% iridium is used in both antique jewelry with its impeccable detailing, and it is also found in most high end 20th century vintage jewelry.

Within the last five to eight years most jewelers who previously used platinum iridium alloys have moved completely to platinum ruthenium. My understanding is that iridium is magnitudes more expensive than ruthenium. IMO The plat/iridium 900/100 alloy is whiter and has a more buttery feel (more to me like white gold feel) than the plat/ruthenium 950/50 alloy which seems greyer and brittle. Weight seems to be the same, but I don’t know for sure.

It could be that Steven Kirsch was referring to plat/iridium 950/50 jewelry which I believe WAS greyer and less workable than 900/100. My understanding is that that combo (950/50) was used in cheaper 20th Century jewelry but has now been all but displaced by ruthenium blend.

I personally love 900/100 alloy and recently could not find an off the shelf jewelry line that carries jewelry made of it. James Allen no longer uses iridium. I believe Stuller can custom alloy with iridium for additional cost as of two years ago when I last inquired.

Please let us know what Steven says!

 

[distracts]

I personally love 900/100 alloy and recently could not find an off the shelf jewelry line that carries jewelry made of it. James Allen no longer uses iridium. I believe Stuller can custom alloy with iridium for additional cost as of two years ago when I last inquired.

That’s sad. I too love that alloy. That’s what my engagement ring is. The patina is so nice and soft.

I do know that iridium is crazily expensive so I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a cost-cutting measure. Back in the day all I ever heard was concern about the ruthenium alloy being brittle.

 

[Beatrice09]

There’s a platinum description page on Mark Morrell’s website that describes why he uses platinum iridium 900/100. Suffice it to say that Mark Morrell is known for his “liquid platinum” craftsmanship of the highest order. 900/100 or 10% iridium is used in both antique jewelry with its impeccable detailing, and it is also found in most high end 20th century vintage jewelry.

Within the last five to eight years most jewelers who previously used platinum iridium alloys have moved completely to platinum ruthenium. My understanding is that iridium is magnitudes more expensive than ruthenium. IMO The plat/iridium 900/100 alloy is whiter and has a more buttery feel (more to me like white gold feel) than the plat/ruthenium 950/50 alloy which seems greyer and brittle. Weight seems to be the same, but I don’t know for sure.

It could be that Steven Kirsch was referring to plat/iridium 950/50 jewelry which I believe WAS greyer and less workable than 900/100. My understanding is that that combo (950/50) was used in cheaper 20th Century jewelry but has now been all but displaced by ruthenium blend.

I personally love 900/100 alloy and recently could not find an off the shelf jewelry line that carries jewelry made of it. James Allen no longer uses iridium. I believe Stuller can custom alloy with iridium for additional cost as of two years ago when I last inquired.

Please let us know what Steven says!

No, SK made it very clear that he said 10% iridium alloy is "poor quality" - "Platinum may also be alloyed with iridium, cobalt, or copper; however, it is not advisable to use 10% iridium alloy when making a piece of jewelry, since that is considered poor quality. " This is quoted from his website, first paragraph on this page: http://stevenkirsch.com/educational/platinum-gold-choose/
That's why it left a strange taste in my mouth that you told me he agreed to use this alloy even he believed the 10% iridium alloy “poor quality”. If he’s okay with using it for his customers why he said it’s poor quality? Doesn’t make sense to me. I haven't asked to see how he'd explain the contradiction but will let you know.

 

[Beatrice09]

That’s sad. I too love that alloy. That’s what my engagement ring is. The patina is so nice and soft.

I do know that iridium is crazily expensive so I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a cost-cutting measure. Back in the day all I ever heard was concern about the ruthenium alloy being brittle.

Especially when those luxury brands all use ruthenium alloy such as Tiffany, Harry Winston, etc... I wonder if it's a cost cutting method for them as well.

 

[LightBright]

Especially when those luxury brands all use ruthenium alloy such as Tiffany, Harry Winston, etc... I wonder if it's a cost cutting method for them as well.

Yes, it is. Here’s a little link from 2015 stating cost differential is a reason to use ruthenium over iridium, and saying that iridium plat 900/100 is softer and more scratch prone versus ruthenium plat 950/50 which is very scratch resistant and harder. That’s considered a selling point but keep in mind that some people like the patina that develops and the softer less brittle feel of iridium alloy.

https://www.mgsrefining.com/blog/2015/10/01/Ruthenium-vs-Iridium-in-Platinum-Alloys

It’s all personal opinion. In addition to preferring the iridium aesthetically, I’m actually “metals sensitive” to ruthenium. I have had no problem wearing it though, so I don’t know why my metals sensitivity test which I got for dental work, showed it. There was also some talk of ruthenium smelting years ago exposing workers to harmful fumes; ruthenium being toxic when inhaled. I don’t know if iridium is similarly toxic. Likely so but I’ve seen no discussion.

 

[nhwhazup]

My setting is 900 plt. with the iridium. It has held up beautifully. What I love is that this alloy keeps the pure white look and stays shiny without getting that dull gray patina so common with platinum. This set is 15 years old that was custom made by Michael Devlin in CA. Ignore the wrinkly, old lady hands.

 

[nhwhazup]

My setting is 900 plt. with the iridium. It has held up beautifully. What I love is that this alloy keeps the pure white look and stays shiny without getting that dull gray patina so common with platinum. This set is 15 years old that was custom made by Michael Devlin in CA. Ignore the wrinkly, old lady

My setting is 900 plt. with the iridium. It has held up beautifully. What I love is that this alloy keeps the pure white look and stays shiny without getting that dull gray patina so common with platinum. This set is 15 years old that was custom made by Michael Devlin in CA. Ignore the wrinkly, old lady hands.

Actually this setting is only 7 years old, not 15. But I think it still has held up well.

 

[RayRay]

FYI - CVB told me recently she’s using ruthenium, even though I had asked for iridium on this last project...

 

[Laila619]

I have a plain platinum band made of the 95/5 ruthenium blend. Still looks super shiny and resists scratches beautifully. Some other factors include whether the metal is cast, die struck, cold worked, etc.