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Platinum alloy choices

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Holy

Rough_Rock
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Nov 6, 2006
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Am I allowed to ask about and discuss metals here? If not, then kick me off.

I am planning to get a platinum, solitaire diamond engagement ring (6-prong, round diamond). Unless I can be convinced otherwise, I plan to get 950 platinum (95% with 5% alloying metals by mass).

1. Does the alloying metal(s) matter much, between, e.g., palldium, ruthenium, iridium, or others?

2. My inclination is to prefer palladium as it is a white precious metal and I read that the platiunum-palladium is whiter than the others. Is this true? Isn''t the ruthenium alloy at least as white and also harder? Is the iridium alloy noticeably yellow compared to the others?

3. Does this really matter?

4. Will I even have a choice with any vendors?

Thanks!
 
Seeing that I have also extensively explored that subject recently, I''ll give it a shot, too!

If you want a particular combination, then you''ll have to find someone who makes their rings that way. You can''t just choose a setting and tell them you want it made with a different alloy or whatever (you might in a custom situation, though). Read this explanation about 90% platinum from Mark Morrell. My local jeweler supports this as he said rings used to be made more with the 90% and it held up much better than the 95% we see now. The 95% is softer and therefore scratches more, but it is easier to work with so that is why it is often used. But I found that it was hard to find anyone using the 90% other than Mark Morrell.

http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm
 
I suggest the alloy your jeweler wishes to work with as long as it is at least 900 parts per thousand platinum. The important part is that you get the design that matters to you. If you are going with a traditional design the jeweler will just order the parts from a findings house and he or she will assemble the ring. If you are going with a custom design the jeweler will have a favorite alloy that they feel comfortable with and do their best work in. Either way I would suggest you leave it up to the jeweler. I do not mean the diamond salesman, very few of them know much about making jewelry.
 
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