Pin puzzle

[glitterata]

I bought this little pin a couple of days ago, not for the penny (shown for scale), but not for alllll that much more either.

The seller claimed it was an Art Nouveau sunflower, from the 1890s. Ha! It's obviously from at least 50 years earlier.

Okay, so here's the puzzle: When exactly is it from, what is it made of, and what does it represent?

It's clearly not gold but gilt metal of some sort. It's not gold filled or rolled gold. Whatever gold content it has, if any, is only a thin surface layer. Does that mean it predates rolled gold?

My first guess was that the yellow stone was glass. I still tend to think that. But it has a thin coating of some weird crackly material that's flaking off, but didn't come off with soap and water. What is the stone, and what is the flaky coating?

The shape reminds me of Rococo-revival design. Is it a Halley's comet pin?

 

[glitterata]

Back, with the long pinstem typical of the period. What period, though? As early as 1820? As late as 1850?

 

[glitterata]

Does the open back mean it''s later than I thought? Does the flat bezel instead of a pinched bezel (I don''t know the technical terms)?

First photo of the stone with its crinkly coating:

 

[glitterata]

Another shot:

 

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Another. It looks opaque in this shot, but it's really transparent--that's just glare from the window.

 

[glitterata]

And one more, of the front of the pin.

 

[jewelerman]

Date: 9/21/2009 10:23:38 PM
Author:glitterata
I bought this little pin a couple of days ago, not for the penny (shown for scale), but not for alllll that much more either.

The seller claimed it was an Art Nouveau sunflower, from the 1890s. Ha! It''s obviously from at least 50 years earlier.

Okay, so here''s the puzzle: When exactly is it from, what is it made of, and what does it represent?

It''s clearly not gold but gilt metal of some sort. It''s not gold filled or rolled gold. Whatever gold content it has, if any, is only a thin surface layer. Does that mean it predates rolled gold?

My first guess was that the yellow stone was glass. I still tend to think that. But it has a thin coating of some weird crackly material that''s flaking off, but didn''t come off with soap and water. What is the stone, and what is the flaky coating?

The shape reminds me of Rococo-revival design. Is it a Halley''s comet pin?

im typing within seconds of seeing the picture...brain storming....its early, hand engraved,glass,gold plated cheap base metal,could be a halleys comet pin...but could be a cravat style pin for a ladies blouse the has a full ruffled front which would date it later when this was the fashion.its ment to be worn with gem on top.Dates before mass production costume jewelry but still has elements of both hand and mashine work.

 

[glitterata]

Ha! Look what I found! The exact same pin! Except theirs has a white stone and they say theirs is 14K. I wonder if it really is?

Theirs is marked "sold." I hope the buyer wasn''t disappointed!

Does this get us any further with the puzzle? Mine is clearly not gold, and they don''t seem to know when theirs is from either.

I suspect not all of these supposed comet pins really ARE comet pins. What do you think, Jewelerman? Are some of them non-comet lace or cravat pins that just happen to have a head and a tail?

And what do you make of the crackly finish on the stone (glass) in my pin?

 

[jewelerman]

Date: 9/22/2009 1:16:49 AM
Author: glitterata
Ha! Look what I found! The exact same pin! Except theirs has a white stone and they say theirs is 14K. I wonder if it really is?

Theirs is marked ''sold.'' I hope the buyer wasn''t disappointed!

Does this get us any further with the puzzle? Mine is clearly not gold, and they don''t seem to know when theirs is from either.

I suspect not all of these supposed comet pins really ARE comet pins. What do you think, Jewelerman? Are some of them non-comet lace or cravat pins that just happen to have a head and a tail?

And what do you make of the crackly finish on the stone (glass) in my pin?

the "gem"is glass.The reason it is crackled is that the glass could have poured into a mold which saved on hand labor and faceting costs and the extreem heat and colds in the processes creates a crackled surface.If the facets look rounded and curved rather then sharp like those that have been hand faceted the glass was poured in a mold.

 

[Liane]

I love glitterata mystery posts because they''re always so educational. I have nothing to add beyond that, I just wanted to say that I <3 these. Never would have guessed that glass could crinkle by being poured into a mold, but now I have a new tidbit of information to sneak into a book someday.

 

[glitterata]

I''m pretty sure the stone was cut, not molded, and the crackled surface is a coating--it''s flaking off in places. Hm...

 

[Stone Hunter]

I've seen pins of this shape/format for sale at Renn. Fairs they were used to hold/fasten one's cloak or cape.

ETA: But I'm sure they were bigger than your pin..maybe it was used to decorativly fasten something?

HTH

 

[glitterata]

Thank you, Liane and StoneHunter.

Tiny pins like this were often used in the 18th and 19th century to fasten lace shawls around a lady''s neck, as a sentimental gift, or just as an ornament. I''m more curious about the form, style, and date.