Photos, ASET of F IF emerald-cut from JA

[Lula]

I have been looking for an emerald-cut for at least four years. I look for a while, and then give up, and then look again. It's really hard to find a good one, especially a small one (under one carat). I like the chubby, more square EC's, so I had JA send this one to me unset (I've been working with Garrett at James Allen, and he's been great!). The stone arrived last week, and I've looked at it in all different lighting conditions. I also gave it the Karl K "red fabric test" and took some photos. It's a very pretty stone, and, I have to say, high clarity in a step cut is pretty cool. I'm not sure I'm going to keep it because I'm pretty sure I want to go with a larger size stone.

I'm curious about what you all think of this stone.

And I thought posting the photos I took would help others see how information from the ASET, vendor photo and video, red fabric test, gemologist's comments, etc., relates to how the stone looks in "real life."

This stone was discussed in this earlier thread:
https://www.pricescope.com/forum/rockytalky/emerald-cut-certified-by-egl-usa-t186975-30.html
Note the ASET and the gemologist's comments.

Here's the link to the stone:
http://www.jamesallen.com/#!/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.76-carat-f-color-if-clarity-sku-165571

Here's what the gemologist said about the stone when Garrett pulled it for me:
"The gemologist found that the 0.76 carat-F-IF (diamond 165571) was the best performer of the three. It has a very good amount of fire, brilliance and scintillation that is perfectly balanced throughout the diamond. She said that it looks like a slightly elongated asscher, with alternating rectangle patterns of light and dark. The diamond does not have any windowing effect and has a very nice, wide rectangular outline."

I don't know what the reference to windowing means -- perhaps because this diamond is shallow? Depth of 57%?

Anyway, I'll post a bunch of photos (I'm wearing a blue shirt and gray sweater, so there is blue and gray in some of the photos).
First, here's the ASET:

 

[Lula]

This diamond is quite shallow at 57%; the table is about the largest I'd choose (personal preference) at 68%. I like that this stone has a medium girdle, and large corners. It's a fiery stone:

 

[Niel]

I almost bought that! Looks really lovely! Glad it got a good home

 

[Lula]

Unfortunately, I did not request a Sarin report for this stone, so I've got no idea what the crown height or crown/pavilion angles are. Garrett said if I sent the stone back to them for setting (if I keep it), that they'd run a Sarin on it.

Some photos of the stone outside in direct and indirect sunlight (you can see the size of the table and the corners of the stone):

 

[Slickk]

From my research I found that windowing is when you can see right through the stone at certain angles. Test it by putting it on a printed paper and see if you can read the print through any angle. I do like the emerald step cut very much and it is a beauty. Let us know if you keep and set it

 

[Lula]

Finally, a crummy shot indoors, indirect light. ETA: I'm wearing a gray sweater and I'm in a room with ivory walls.

 

[Lula]

I almost bought that! Looks really lovely! Glad it got a good home

Hi, Niel
All three of those stones you posted the ASETS for in that thread were nice -- you've got a good eye. I am surprised by how much fire this stone has, given that the crown height is probably only average, and the table is on the high side of what's recommended. I'm also not sure how the very shallow depth affects the optics. Indoors this diamond has a beautiful and even pattern of concentric circles -- as the gemologist mentioned -- similar to an assher.

 

[Lula]

From my research I found that windowing is when you can see right through the stone at certain angles. Test it by putting it on a printed paper and see if you can read the print through any angle. I do like the emerald step cut very much and it is a beauty. Let us know if you keep and set it

Thanks, Sandeek,I do like this diamond. The only reason I'd send it back to JA is if I decide to go with a larger size. This is a .76 carat, but it is larger than many stones 10 points heavier because it is so shallow.

I'll try the newspaper test. So I should not be able to read the print through the bottom of the stone face-up; but what about if the stone is at a tilt?

 

[Slickk]

From a tilt is a good test if it has windowing. You should not be able to read the print.
Check this link. Hope it works:

What To Look For When Choosing A Gemstone - Bespoke Gems

www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_Page_WhatToLookFor.php

Let us know what you see

 

[Lula]

From a tilt is a good test if it has windowing. You should not be able to read the print.
Check this link. Hope it works:

What To Look For When Choosing A Gemstone - Bespoke Gems

www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_Page_WhatToLookFor.php

Let us know what you see

That's good information, with good examples, in that link. Thanks! So, for colored stones, a tilt window is okay, but I'm not sure if diamonds will exhibit a tilt window. I've never noticed one in the round brilliants I've owned. Are there any fancy-cut experts that can shed some light on tilt windows in diamonds?

 

[Mayk]

WOW!!!!

 

[yennyfire]

I know zippo about emerald cuts, other than that I really like the clipped corners and that certain step patterns appeal to my eye more than others (though I'd have a hard time verbalizing what catches my eye versus what doesn't)....

However, that is a really pretty stone! Too bad you can't just order EXACTLY what you want in terms of size, clarity, color, step pattern, etc. What would your ideal emerald look like (size, clarity, color, etc.)?

 

[Dreamer_D]

I really love the patterning on this stone, but of course, bigger is better to me Especially with a step cut you can appreciate the faceting more. But of course, that is a road that can lead to bad places...

I have seen tilt windowing in a large OEC I owned. The diamond had a super high crown and really really big kite facets. At a tilt you could see through the largest kite facet to the under-pavilion area. I thought it was a cool effect. It did not negatively affect performance and seemed to be a result of the very large kite facets and short lower halves -- so fewer virtual facets breaking up the patterning. Likely not a desirable effect but it was neat.

 

[Alexiszoe]

From a tilt is a good test if it has windowing. You should not be able to read the print.
Check this link. Hope it works:

What To Look For When Choosing A Gemstone - Bespoke Gems

www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_Page_WhatToLookFor.php

Let us know what you see

That's good information, with good examples, in that link. Thanks! So, for colored stones, a tilt window is okay, but I'm not sure if diamonds will exhibit a tilt window. I've never noticed one in the round brilliants I've owned. Are there any fancy-cut experts that can shed some light on tilt windows in diamonds?

Not a fancy cut expert, but just from my personal experience, some diamonds do exhibit windowing.

I notice certain cuts tend to exhibit more windowing (e.g step cuts versus RB), and also, as diamonds get bigger the windowing seems more evident (have seen a few RB 3 carats and up where there is minimal windowing) , although I would guess whether or not you can really see it also depends on the setting and the cut. DBL has some fantastic pictures of emerald cut diamonds where you can see some windowing at a tilt angle.

 

[heididdl]

The stone is wonderful I have an EC and I love it. The only reason I would return it is if you wanted that just under 1.00 carat stone.

 

[diamondloveaffair]

you can take an image of the side profile for us to estimate the angles.

 

[Lula]

WOW!!!!

Thanks, Mayk! I was not expecting so much fire from this little stone. And the fire was really easy to capture in photos. I guess that's the benefit of those long facets -- they catch the sun.

 

[Lula]

From a tilt is a good test if it has windowing. You should not be able to read the print.
Check this link. Hope it works:

What To Look For When Choosing A Gemstone - Bespoke Gems

www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_Page_WhatToLookFor.php

Let us know what you see

I tried the newsprint test, and here's what I saw. I could not read the print through the diamond at all face-up, looking straight down at the diamond. I could read the print through the diamond when the diamond was tilted at about 60 degrees. This was a bit weird in a diamond, but is similar to what I've seen in colored stones.

 

[Lula]

I know zippo about emerald cuts, other than that I really like the clipped corners and that certain step patterns appeal to my eye more than others (though I'd have a hard time verbalizing what catches my eye versus what doesn't)....

However, that is a really pretty stone! Too bad you can't just order EXACTLY what you want in terms of size, clarity, color, step pattern, etc. What would your ideal emerald look like (size, clarity, color, etc.)?

Hello, yenny! Yes, I know what you mean -- after looking at many emerald cuts, I was able to narrow down my "must-haves," which makes the search harder in some ways and easier in others. The clipped corners are definitely first on my list; I also like slightly larger tables, and a more square or "chubby" shape. Like you, I have a hard time explaining what I like in the patterning. I do like the concentric light and dark pattern that this diamond shows, what the gemologist referred to as "asscher-like" patterning. My ideal size would be in the 7 x 6 mm range. This one is 6 x 5. This stone is just big enough for the patterning to be visible at arm's length -- any smaller and I think I would not be able to see the patterns. As for color, I like the F color a lot. I'm sure G would be okay, too. And clarity -- while the IF is certainly novel, I'm sure VS clarity would be okay, and much less expensive. Although I'd probably stick to VS1 in an emerald-cut for mind clean purposes.

And, yes, it's so hard to find decent emerald-cut stones, it sure would be easier to have one custom-cut (don't I wish!).

 

[Lula]

I really love the patterning on this stone, but of course, bigger is better to me Especially with a step cut you can appreciate the faceting more. But of course, that is a road that can lead to bad places...

I have seen tilt windowing in a large OEC I owned. The diamond had a super high crown and really really big kite facets. At a tilt you could see through the largest kite facet to the under-pavilion area. I thought it was a cool effect. It did not negatively affect performance and seemed to be a result of the very large kite facets and short lower halves -- so fewer virtual facets breaking up the patterning. Likely not a desirable effect but it was neat.

Thanks so much, Dreamer.
Interesting about the tilt window in an OEC. Maybe it's the larger pavilion facets? Emerald-cuts and OEC's both have large pavilion facets. The windowing I saw in this stone does not seem to affect its light performance. This is a very bright EC. I cannot for the life of me get decent indoor shots. I'll post a few more photos that are a little better, and show the brightness of the stone.

Bigger is better for me, too, especially when it comes to the patterns in a step cut. But I want to avoid the upgrade mania, so I'm trying to get it right the first time -- wish me luck I tried on an emerald-cut three-stone and loved it. The center stone in the ring I tried on was 2/3 carat. And like most emerald-cuts, it faced up small, so this stone is actually bigger than the center in the ring I liked. This setting could work, too (the stone in this setting is 1.5 carats):

 

[Lula]

From a tilt is a good test if it has windowing. You should not be able to read the print.
Check this link. Hope it works:

What To Look For When Choosing A Gemstone - Bespoke Gems

www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_Page_WhatToLookFor.php

Let us know what you see

That's good information, with good examples, in that link. Thanks! So, for colored stones, a tilt window is okay, but I'm not sure if diamonds will exhibit a tilt window. I've never noticed one in the round brilliants I've owned. Are there any fancy-cut experts that can shed some light on tilt windows in diamonds?

Not a fancy cut expert, but just from my personal experience, some diamonds do exhibit windowing.

I notice certain cuts tend to exhibit more windowing (e.g step cuts versus RB), and also, as diamonds get bigger the windowing seems more evident (have seen a few RB 3 carats and up where there is minimal windowing) , although I would guess whether or not you can really see it also depends on the setting and the cut. DBL has some fantastic pictures of emerald cut diamonds where you can see some windowing at a tilt angle.

Thanks, Alexiszoe -- I did not know that diamonds could exhibit windowing. I think it would bother me if I could see right through the diamond, staring straight into it, but that's not the case here. I have visited DBL's site and I like the more "old-fashioned" (my terms) emerald-cuts David sells -- i.e., larger tables, clipped corners, more dramatic light-dark patterning. Many of his stones have culets -- which I guess would exhibit a window-like effect. I've never noticed the windowing, but now that I know what to look for, I'll check again.

 

[Lula]

The stone is wonderful I have an EC and I love it. The only reason I would return it is if you wanted that just under 1.00 carat stone.

Thanks, heididdl (I like your screen name a lot). This stone is a charmer. My only indecision is the size. But there's a big price jump at the one carat mark, and so many of the one carat stones face up small, so it's a needle-in-a-haystack sort of hunt. Searching for fancy cuts certainly tries one's patience!

 

[Lula]

you can take an image of the side profile for us to estimate the angles.

Thanks, diamondloveaffair. I will try to get some profile shots that are clear. The crown does not look that high, and I wasn't expecting much in terms of fire or sparkle, but this stone really surprised me under spotlighting and in sunlight.

 

[Lula]

It's been difficult to get good indoor shots of this diamond. Here are a few more that show how bright the diamond is indoors, and another shot that shows the patterning. I'm holding my hand over the diamond in the third photo; the sun is behind my hand. It's sitting on a brown paper towel (yeah, I know; could I find something more blah to set it on?). Hmm, it looks like there's a lot of leakage at the corners of the diamond -- is that normal with emerald-cuts? Maybe that's the green in the ASET.

 

[woofmama]

Lula I really like that stone! I bought mine from JA last july and is also has a larger table(65.) paired with a shallow depth(63.3) It is very bright and fiery as well, and has a length to width ratio of 1.09.
So mine is chubby and more asscher-like. Several jewelers kept referring to it as an asscher. I set it E-W so that really emphasized the square shape. Great performer, too.

Goes to show that sometimes buying by the numbers or a set criteria doesn't always work with fancy cuts. If the size is what you want, I would say this diamond is a keeper.


EDITED: We were posting at the same time so I didn't see your last set of pictures. Interesting about the edges showing the paper towel thru it. I don't know how that would correspond to the green in the ASET. Mine had green along the edges as well but I don't have any leakage. Here's the image of mine:

 

[Dreamer_D]

A three stone with ECs all about the same size -- say, two .65ct sides with similar cut -- would be frankly amazing. I would not worry about going larger with this one if you went for a three stone.

My three-stone of yore with EC sides and sapphire center had amazing hand presence. The center was 6.1 x 5.2 and the sides were about 5 x 4.5 or something (about .48ct each). It is a look I highly recommend and if the center had been a diamond I would have likely kept it! My vote is to go that route with this amazing little stunner. Or add step-cut traps a la GummiBear's ring and UCLABelle's, two of my all time PS favourites.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/calling-em1-dani-peaches-gummis-ring-is-finally-here.112202/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/calling-em1-dani-peaches-gummis-ring-is-finally-here.112202/[/URL]
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-re-set-yes-another.120074/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-re-set-yes-another.120074/[/URL]

 

[chrono]

63% isn't shallow at all and is considered a good depth. 57% depth coupled with a 68% table isn't an EC for me. I enjoy seeing a higher crown, less table glare and more multi-coloured fire. In a few pictures where the lighting condition is low, all I see is the table glare which some don't mind. Do the steps light up individually as you turn the EC from side to side slowly? Because of the shallow depth, you are seeing the tilt window in the corners when your diamond isn't lined up perfectly straight.

 

[starrylight]

Here's another inspiration pic with the description from doyle & doyle for information about proportions.

"an Emerald Cut diamond weighing 1.24ct (D color, VS1 clarity) flanked by two trapezoid diamonds weighing 0.60ctw, fashioned in platinum."

 

[Lula]

Lula I really like that stone! I bought mine from JA last july and is also has a larger table(65.) paired with a shallow depth(63.3) It is very bright and fiery as well, and has a length to width ratio of 1.09.
So mine is chubby and more asscher-like. Several jewelers kept referring to it as an asscher. I set it E-W so that really emphasized the square shape. Great performer, too.

Goes to show that sometimes buying by the numbers or a set criteria doesn't always work with fancy cuts. If the size is what you want, I would say this diamond is a keeper.


EDITED: We were posting at the same time so I didn't see your last set of pictures. Interesting about the edges showing the paper towel thru it. I don't know how that would correspond to the green in the ASET. Mine had green along the edges as well but I don't have any leakage. Here's the image of mine:

Thank you, Woofmama -- your EC is one of my favorites on PS -- because of the large corners. I'd consider a lower color, especially if the stone had a brown rather than yellow tint, but good ECs in lower colors seem even harder to find than those in the D-F range. I agree with you on buying by the numbers, ASET, IS, etc. I find that the light performance tools that are so easy for me to use with rounds just don't capture the personality of EC's. I did look at this stone under my IS, and it checked out -- I used this article by Garry to guide me:
http://www.ideal-scope.com/1.using_fancy.asp

 

[Lula]

A three stone with ECs all about the same size -- say, two .65ct sides with similar cut -- would be frankly amazing. I would not worry about going larger with this one if you went for a three stone.

My three-stone of yore with EC sides and sapphire center had amazing hand presence. The center was 6.1 x 5.2 and the sides were about 5 x 4.5 or something (about .48ct each). It is a look I highly recommend and if the center had been a diamond I would have likely kept it! My vote is to go that route with this amazing little stunner. Or add step-cut traps a la GummiBear's ring and UCLABelle's, two of my all time PS favourites.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/calling-em1-dani-peaches-gummis-ring-is-finally-here.112202/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/calling-em1-dani-peaches-gummis-ring-is-finally-here.112202/[/URL]
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-re-set-yes-another.120074/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-re-set-yes-another.120074/[/URL]

Hmm, I like this idea a lot -- three stones of similar size, perhaps with small baguettes or something similar on the ends, to make it a five-stone.

I remember seeing the photos of your sapphire and diamond EC ring -- I love that combination. The proportions of your ring were really elegant, and the center sapphire is similar in size to this diamond. Good EC pairs are hard to find -- I planned to buy them one at a time, keeping an eye out for smaller, chubby squares. But given how long it takes to search for decent EC's, a three-stone ring could take awhile to assemble. I have to determine if I have the patience to wait -- usually not. LOL.

ETA: I just took a peak at those threads -- those rings are amazing. I like the trapezoid shape for side stones more than I do the pair of ECs -- the transition from stone to band is more graceful. Thank you, Dreamer!