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Pear Necklace-Clasp Design Help Needed!

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starryeyed

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Whiteflash is making this necklace for me, using my 2.8-carat pear-shaped diamond - pictures in this THREAD, bottom of page 1, top of page 2.

The diamonds in the strand will be 7-pointers. I need help with the clasp design.

I want the necklace length to be adjustable - 16", 17", 18". Because the drop is fixed to the necklace, a series of three "jump loops" (as WF calls them) with a lobster clasp won''t work because at shorter lengths, the clasp won''t be centered at the back of my neck.

So my idea is to have a clasp on both ends of the necklace, with "jump loops" in between diamonds on both ends. I need two clasps that are elegant and go with the look of the piece.

I will post more images shortly to explain the general idea a bit better.


PearPendantTPZDrop1.jpg
 

starryeyed

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This is the first idea that I had, but WF was concerned about the metal getting crushed over time. They were also concerned about each end of the necklace pulling and making the necklace not lay right.

NecklaceClaspSketch2.jpg
 

starryeyed

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Then I thought, in order to prevent the "metal crushing", "jump loops" or "closure loops" could be added between diamonds. WF was concerned about the clasp pulling and not laying right still. By the way, the large circles in this sketh are diamonds. The smaller ones are "closure loops".

NecklaceClaspSketch3.jpg
 

starryeyed

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So then I thought, rather than fixing the clasp to be perpedicular to the strand, allow the clasp to swivel.

The clasp could be a modified barrel clasp of sorts where the pin goes through the "closure loop", and the hinged loop snaps down over it to secure the clasp. Here''s a sketch.

NecklaceClaspSketch4.jpg
 

Cehrabehra

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here''s what I would do - to keep it simple. You''re having it set to 3 lengths... I would do a very classic type with 3 round holes set at 1" intervals and I would have the most *centered* of the 3 holes be the middle length hole. That way it is only off one inch to either side. And with an almost 3 carat pear to weigh it down, I don''t think a tiny bit of chain hanging down the back of your neck that isn''t *quite* centered is going to matter at all. Just make sure at the very end of the chain they put a little bit bigger of a diamond in a pretty little dangle ;-)
 

starryeyed

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WF sent me a link to the Stuller site with their different clasps available. I thought a clasp like their "Infinity Clasp" might be nice. Perhaps even with a diamond set in the middle where the "8" crosses - one on each side (2 diamonds per clasp, two clasps).

If this hasn''t been too long and cryptic to follow, I would appreciate any other advice for clasp designs to achieve adjustability. Thanks!


InfinityClasp1.jpg
 

Kaleigh

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Date: 4/18/2007 2:41:40 PM
Author: Cehrabehra
here''s what I would do - to keep it simple. You''re having it set to 3 lengths... I would do a very classic type with 3 round holes set at 1'' intervals and I would have the most *centered* of the 3 holes be the middle length hole. That way it is only off one inch to either side. And with an almost 3 carat pear to weigh it down, I don''t think a tiny bit of chain hanging down the back of your neck that isn''t *quite* centered is going to matter at all. Just make sure at the very end of the chain they put a little bit bigger of a diamond in a pretty little dangle ;-)
I like this idea a lot!!!
 

starryeyed

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Date: 4/18/2007 2:41:40 PM
Author: Cehrabehra
here''s what I would do - to keep it simple. You''re having it set to 3 lengths... I would do a very classic type with 3 round holes set at 1'' intervals and I would have the most *centered* of the 3 holes be the middle length hole. That way it is only off one inch to either side. And with an almost 3 carat pear to weigh it down, I don''t think a tiny bit of chain hanging down the back of your neck that isn''t *quite* centered is going to matter at all. Just make sure at the very end of the chain they put a little bit bigger of a diamond in a pretty little dangle ;-)
Thanks CB - I understand what you are saying.

The thing is, the necklace will be platinum, so I''m guessing that will be most of the weight of the piece. The pear diamond may not weigh as much in comparison. Therefore, I thought the clasp might dictate how it laid on my neck. I''d hate for the pendant to not hang straight.

I really don''t know though. This is a good thought.
 

Kismet

Ideal_Rock
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How about making the drop movable so that it attaches to whichever diamond is in the center of the chain at the various lengths?
 

pricescope

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Date: 4/18/2007 2:44:22 PM
Author: starryeyed
WF sent me a link to the Stuller site with their different clasps available. I thought a clasp like their 'Infinity Clasp' might be nice. Perhaps even with a diamond set in the middle where the '8' crosses - one on each side (2 diamonds per clasp, two clasps).

If this hasn't been too long and cryptic to follow, I would appreciate any other advice for clasp designs to achieve adjustability. Thanks!
I like this idea the most Starry. Is the chain made already? Because it ( jump-link-jump part in between diamonds) should repeat clasps shape to look organic as you like.

ETA: i also think it's the safest, especially considering that both clasps will be hooked simultaneousely. Does Stuller have white gold clasps like this?

I really admire your drawing skills!
 

Skippy123

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Holy Macaroni; that is going to be gorgeous!!!
 

starryeyed

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Date: 4/18/2007 3:04:26 PM
Author: Kismet
How about making the drop movable so that it attaches to whichever diamond is in the center of the chain at the various lengths?
This is another great idea, but I couldn''t figure out how to do it and still maintain the same look. I was thinking, to make it removable, there would have to be some kind of clasp, perhaps behind each diamond. This would add hardware behind a series of diamonds, so the necklace may not lay right.

Then I thought about a clasp that connected around the necklace, but didn''t like that idea either. Thanks for that thought though!
 

starryeyed

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Date: 4/18/2007 3:08:12 PM
Author: Pricescope
Date: 4/18/2007 2:44:22 PM
I like this idea the most Starry. Is the chain made already? Because it ( jump-link-jump part in between diamonds) should repeat clasps shape to look organic as you like.
ETA: i also think it's the safest, especially considering that both clasps will be hooked simultaneousely. Does Stuller have white gold clasps like this?
I really admire your drawing skills!
Hi Irina. Last I knew, WF was working on getting the bezels made.

So waht you are saying is the diamond-loop-diamond-loop-... should look like a series of Figure-8's? I wonder if that's still possible - it's a nice idea!

Thanks for the compliment on my drawings - they are really chicken-scratch!
 

FireGoddess

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Starry, I don''t know a hoot about clasps and I think you''ve gotten great suggestions already - I just want to say that is going to be one absolutely breathtaking piece of jewelry!!! WOW!
 

pricescope

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Date: 4/18/2007 3:48:06 PM
Author: starryeyed


Date: 4/18/2007 3:08:12 PM
Author: Pricescope
Date: 4/18/2007 2:44:22 PM
I like this idea the most Starry. Is the chain made already? Because it ( jump-link-jump part in between diamonds) should repeat clasps shape to look organic as you like.
ETA: i also think it's the safest, especially considering that both clasps will be hooked simultaneousely. Does Stuller have white gold clasps like this?
I really admire your drawing skills!
Hi Irina. Last I knew, WF was working on getting the bezels made.

So waht you are saying is the diamond-loop-diamond-loop-... should look like a series of Figure-8's? I wonder if that's still possible - it's a nice idea!

Thanks for the compliment on my drawings - they are really chicken-scratch!
I think i may not understand correctly what's in between diamonds bezels Starry. From the picture i do not see diamond-loop-diamond. What i see there is diamond-jumpring-loop-jumpring-diamond. Is it right?
 

starryeyed

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Date: 4/18/2007 7:14:10 PM
Author: Pricescope
I think i may not understand correctly what''s in between diamonds bezels Starry. From the picture i do not see diamond-loop-diamond. What i see there is diamond-jumpring-loop-jumpring-diamond. Is it right?
Hi Irina. Yes I think you must be right - I''m really ignorant when it comes to nomenclature. Sorry for any confusion!
 

pricescope

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Date: 4/18/2007 7:19:36 PM
Author: starryeyed

Date: 4/18/2007 7:14:10 PM
Author: Pricescope
I think i may not understand correctly what''s in between diamonds bezels Starry. From the picture i do not see diamond-loop-diamond. What i see there is diamond-jumpring-loop-jumpring-diamond. Is it right?
Hi Irina. Yes I think you must be right - I''m really ignorant when it comes to nomenclature. Sorry for any confusion!
There is a difference in position of those elements Starry which is important if we want to make it fairly consistent with the clasps shape. Jumprings which are soldered to the bezels are in the same plane with them in that first picture and the "loop" is perpendicular. So we need to think it over - "8" shape is hard to achieve when there are 3 parts. I am off to make a photoshop...
 

widget

Ideal_Rock
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Good heavens.....this is going to be beyond gorgeous!!! Truly!!!


I have a thought...probably of no interest to you, Starry...it totally changes your necklace length requirements....but I''ll throw it into the mix, anyway.

How about having the necklace choker length, and making a bracelet which could be attached to lengthen it? I''d be tempted to go this route...then I''d have TWO matching, stunning pieces!

Whatever, it really is going to be fabulous... the chain itself is TDF.



widget
 

pricescope

Ideal_Rock
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Dec 31, 1999
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8,266
I will make the color breaking for different details to be able to explain because it''s a lousy photoshop but i can''t do better.
There are 2 kind of connections - let''s call the "hard" - when soldered and "loose" - those are the links for chain movement.

StarrysChain1.jpg
 

pricescope

Ideal_Rock
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Let me know if something need to be clarified Starry, i don''t think you can place a diamond in the middle of the clasp - there is a working part inside that crossing of the "8" you don''t want to mess with unless the clasp will be custom made - and big.

The part pointed to by a green arrow is NOT bulky as it shown - it''s almost the size of the jump and suppose to repeat the shape of the clasp for consistency

StarrysChainArrows.jpg
 

Nicrez

Ideal_Rock
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Date: 4/19/2007 11:10:37 AM
Author: widget
Good heavens.....this is going to be beyond gorgeous!!! Truly!!!


I have a thought...probably of no interest to you, Starry...it totally changes your necklace length requirements....but I'll throw it into the mix, anyway.

How about having the necklace choker length, and making a bracelet which could be attached to lengthen it? I'd be tempted to go this route...then I'd have TWO matching, stunning pieces!

Whatever, it really is going to be fabulous... the chain itself is TDF.



widget
Widget, GREAT IDEA!!! It's such a perfect idea, because personally I am a fan of convertability in jewelry... It can be broken up into three equal length chains, to make three bracelets, on bracelet and necklace, or just a long necklace!
 

Nicrez

Ideal_Rock
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Jan 21, 2004
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This necklace (Lot 256) at Christie's made me think of your project...Just another large pear necklace that will go on my wish list, along with yours!

ETA: The center is a pear shape, but it is surrounded by lotus shaped encasing of diamond melee...(it's more clearly shown on the catalogue cover)

d4890910x.jpg
 

starryeyed

Ideal_Rock
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Date: 4/19/2007 12:06:06 PM
Author: Nicrez
Date: 4/19/2007 11:10:37 AM
Author: widget
Good heavens.....this is going to be beyond gorgeous!!! Truly!!!

I have a thought...probably of no interest to you, Starry...it totally changes your necklace length requirements....but I''ll throw it into the mix, anyway.
How about having the necklace choker length, and making a bracelet which could be attached to lengthen it? I''d be tempted to go this route...then I''d have TWO matching, stunning pieces!
Whatever, it really is going to be fabulous... the chain itself is TDF.

widget
Widget, GREAT IDEA!!! It''s such a perfect idea, because personally I am a fan of convertability in jewelry... It can be broken up into three equal length chains, to make three bracelets, on bracelet and necklace, or just a long necklace!
Widget, this is a very thought idea! I have an 18K YG necklace and bracelet set that is configured exactly this way - to be worn separately or hooked together for a longer necklace.

You know what though? I never wear them hooked together!
For some reason, I find I rarely wear a 22-24" chain. And I never wear chokers either - they make my neck look chopped off or something.

This is a great idea for the right gal though - really smart! Thanks for the thought!
 

starryeyed

Ideal_Rock
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Wow, what a piece Nicrez! Any idea of the carat weight of that stone and the estimated bidding range?

Was that your kidney I saw for sale on eBay?? Kidding!
 

starryeyed

Ideal_Rock
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Date: 4/19/2007 11:40:59 AM
Author: Pricescope
Let me know if something need to be clarified Starry, i don''t think you can place a diamond in the middle of the clasp - there is a working part inside that crossing of the ''8'' you don''t want to mess with unless the clasp will be custom made - and big.
Hi Irina. Thanks for this idea! I see the concept. My first thought is that it seems like a lot of hardware (loops and jump rings - not sure of the difference) to accommodate the infinity style loop. I''m wondering if there''s a way to simplify this? I''m going to think about this....

Thanks for clarifying about the diamond in the clasp. It''s hard to tell what will work when things are so magnified. I thought a small 1-1.5 pointer might work, but I wouldn''t want to interfere with a mechanism.
 

widget

Ideal_Rock
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Date: 4/19/2007 12:49:09 PM
Author: starryeyed

Hi Irina. Thanks for this idea! I see the concept. My first thought is that it seems like a lot of hardware (loops and jump rings - not sure of the difference) to accommodate the infinity style loop. I''m wondering if there''s a way to simplify this?
I wonder if doing something like this would be simpler? Have WF make a matching "necklace extender" of whatever length you want, using the teeniest (while safe) clasps available...picture below using box clasp..

Wow..this is tough, Starry! Irina''s may be best...but it''s hard to tell how "hardware-ish" it would look with the blownup pictures.

Dumb question...how do you usually wear your hair? Short or up, or neck-covering? If your hair usually covers your neck, you could forego bezeled diamonds in the extender...

SO INTERESTED to hear (and finallly see) how you resolve this enviable ''problem''!


widget

box clasp  extender.jpg
 

starryeyed

Ideal_Rock
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Date: 4/19/2007 1:42:44 PM
Author: widget
Date: 4/19/2007 12:49:09 PM
I wonder if doing something like this would be simpler? Have WF make a matching 'necklace extender' of whatever length you want, using the teeniest (while safe) clasps available...picture below using box clasp..
Wow..this is tough, Starry! Irina's may be best...but it's hard to tell how 'hardware-ish' it would look with the blownup pictures.
Dumb question...how do you usually wear your hair? Short or up, or neck-covering? If your hair usually covers your neck, you could forego bezeled diamonds in the extender...
SO INTERESTED to hear (and finallly see) how you resolve this enviable 'problem'!

widget
Hi Widget. Another great thought! WF suggested this to me also - see, great minds! And they also asked me how I wear my hair!


I guess I was hoping for all one piece, so I couldn't lose the extender piece. I will probably wear my hair up for the wedding, but I also wear it down. It's shoulder-length, or maybe a little longer.

I am going to post a design idea that is similar to Irina's. Tell me what you think!
 

starryeyed

Ideal_Rock
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So building on Irina's idea, what do you think of this? The basic idea is the same with two clasps, one at each end of the necklace.

I've tried to incorporate Irina's idea of mimicking the Infinity Clasp configuration for the connection loops. There are 3 rings - each one is fixed to two diamonds. In between the diamond-ring-diamond link, there is a "loose connection", similar to the rest of the necklace.

The only additional thought I had is that perhaps there should be one or two bezel-set diamonds with loose connections in between the clasp and the last "link". Otherwise, it might be too crowded on that last setting. Does that make sense?

Thoughts?

NecklaceClaspSketch5.jpg
 
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