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Onyx halo durability?

elizat

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I’m posting this in the colored stone section but though the main stone is going to be a diamond in a ring I want to have made. Long story short I have bought an emerald cut diamond, that is 1.86 carats and I want to make it a very Art Deco setting. I was leaning towards doing an Onyx Halo, but have concerns because it is softer than alternatives like emerald or sapphire.

This is the diamond:

https://www.augustvintageinc.net/products/1-86ct-i-vs1-lab-grown-emerald-cut-diamond

I was planning on encasing the onyx in a slim bezel to protect it. Here are the ideas that visually capture what I’m thinking attached. I don’t want a diamond halo around the onyx, just a slim metal bezel.
I know spinel is harder. I don’t know hard it would be to have someone track down black spinel for the frame though.

Or should I just go with an emerald or sapphire halo? This is the setting I was thinking of, made to fit the emerald cut.

https://sincityfinds.com/collections/made-to-order/products/rose-cut-and-emerald-target-ring-1

I have bought from Diana before and her bench uses pretty emeralds and sapphires. But I already have two emerald halos and two sapphire halos. She can do ruby too, but not sure if that would look nice? Any input?
 

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T L

Super_Ideal_Rock
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That’s very pretty, but you could do the same kind of halo with black spinel. Spinel is much more durable.
 

lovedogs

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Love the idea of an onyx/black spinel halo!! @Rfisher has one of my all time favorites.
 

T L

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I love the idea too, I want to do that to a moonstone.
 

elizat

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Thanks- I actually sent the post of Rfishers ring as inspiration as well! I will have to see what I'm told about the difficulty of sourcing black spinel. If it's really difficult, I may go with ruby, but I'd really prefer the black. I guess maybe they could look for very dark sapphires too.
 

marymm

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I also have a yen for an onyx halo ring ... not sure if I'll go with a diamond or with a CS, but really love the look ... can't wait to see what you may do!
 

Rfisher

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Gah! I love these!

Thank you for the kind words on my ring as well!

My opinion - if you already have two emerald halos and two sapphire halos (lucky duck!) I think a ruby one, although pretty, would scratch a black halo itch only temporary.
As for durability, yes onyx isn't up there with sapphires and spinel. How has your emerald ones held up? How much wear do the emeralds one get and how much wear do you anticipate for the onyx one? Plus the way they are cut, and also set will have varying degrees of vulnerability I do assume.
I think I saw in the past Doug Menadue custom cuts black spinel, but not sure.
I think if you pursued the onyx, ask the question of replacing pros and cons of a once piece design vs a many smaller piece design, maybe that might help decide.
Please do keep us updated!
 

elizat

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So, Jonathan has been working on design ideas for me. He's really fun to work with too! This is what he's sent me so far as a design idea based on the inspiration photos and he can do black spinel. I think it's a great start. I think I'd like to have milgrain around the center bezel. I don't think milgrain around the outer- maybe too busy? Maybe some engraving/ pattern on the shank? He's able to incorporate a design element under the stone too to give it some visual interest. Thoughts?

He was also asking about shank width. I was probably thinking kind of a comfort fit band. Not sure how thick that usually is- will have to measure one I have, but here is what I have so far!

image001.png
 

rockysalamander

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So, Jonathan has been working on design ideas for me. He's really fun to work with too! This is what he's sent me so far as a design idea based on the inspiration photos and he can do black spinel. I think it's a great start. I think I'd like to have milgrain around the center bezel. I don't think milgrain around the outer- maybe too busy? Maybe some engraving/ pattern on the shank? He's able to incorporate a design element under the stone too to give it some visual interest. Thoughts?

He was also asking about shank width. I was probably thinking kind of a comfort fit band. Not sure how thick that usually is- will have to measure one I have, but here is what I have so far!

image001.png
From a durability perspective, the double halo with diamonds on the outside will be safer. It will put diamonds on the perimeter to "take" the impact from daily wear and protect the onyx. That outer row can be tiny or more substantial like in your example above. I like the bezel perimeter too.

On antique rings, it is really common to see massive chips and abrasion on that outer perimeter of gemstones. If you make sure they sink the stones into the halo, like below, that will also help. Can you see how there is not much "blue" peaking above the outer rim...the stones are sunk into the setting.

upload_2018-12-27_8-30-8.png


On the shank, I think something with a bit of angles would be helpful to join the two visually together. You could put a step-cut or baguette into the shank going the long-way, use a more squarish profile or add some shaping like CVB often does. I don't know your other rings, so maybe that is too similar to one of those.

I would also prefer the spinel both for durability and for a bit more life in that black halo. Black spinel is readily available, but I'd look for excellent cutting and be willing to pay for that kind of precision myself.
 

lovedogs

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I like the idea of onyx and then metal around that (kind of like a double halo). That way the onyx is protected. And on the metal "halo" you can have engraving
 

Maisie

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B3616365-EA7C-470D-BFDB-77DD770EA6C4.png
I don’t know if enamel would be an option. I don’t know much about it or how durable it would be but I wanted to show you a piece from Pablo Cimadevila.
 

PreRaphaelite

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I love Pablo’s YouTube videos. He hasn’t posted much lately, I hope he’s ok. What a gorgeous piece of work (oh and his jewellery work is nice too)
;-)
 

elizat

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Thanks for all the feedback! Very helpful- all of it and much appreciated. I have asked about the shoulder design and I'll see what Jonathan says.

I think enamel is really cool too, but probably harder to find someone to do that! I will share updated design photos once I have them. I think it's going to look pretty!
 

Maisie

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Thanks for all the feedback! Very helpful- all of it and much appreciated. I have asked about the shoulder design and I'll see what Jonathan says.

I think enamel is really cool too, but probably harder to find someone to do that! I will share updated design photos once I have them. I think it's going to look pretty!

David Klass does enamel.
 

PreRaphaelite

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Here’s an example of an onyx bezel that cracked, but the great thing about this particular ring is that there are gorgeous diamond/metal stations between the pieces that make up the outer rim. It’s nice to think that if any part was damaged, one could replace just that part rather than the whole donut, as it were.
253F545F-1E9F-40B8-BA5D-249C815F2F9A.jpeg
Taken from
https://www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/2641B/lots/209
 

rockysalamander

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Here’s an example of an onyx bezel that cracked, but the great thing about this particular ring is that there are gorgeous diamond/metal stations between the pieces that make up the outer rim. It’s nice to think that if any part was damaged, one could replace just that part rather than the whole donut, as it were.
253F545F-1E9F-40B8-BA5D-249C815F2F9A.jpeg
Taken from
https://www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/2641B/lots/209
Certainly possible to replace, but it would be a one off custom cut stone. That would be terribly expensive, when a design shift could avoid such risk. Rings like this were only worn rarely and for events. Not a daily ring.
 

elizat

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Update- I have been working with Jonathan and they can get custom cut black spinel, but not for the smaller pieces on the surround. They drew up a design that would put diamonds where they could not get spinel due to size issues. I am kind of unsure. I may go back to the drawing board on it, but I know I don't want a traditional solitaire either with prongs or a bezel. So I'm trying to think of what else may work. Thoughts?

image013.jpg image012.png
 

marymm

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^ what if you put the black spinel just in the corners, and diamonds (rounds only or rounds + baguettes) and/or engraved metal in the rest of the halo/surround?
 

elliefire99

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So glad you are doing this project! I diamond-onyx ring is one of my long-term goals, so it's great to see a project to scratch the itch in the meantime.

I'm not really loving that most recent mock up though. Seems a little busy and graphic with all the diamonds. But maybe something a little simpler? Taking a note from @InsecureSweetGirl 's post above, diamonds on the angled corners could be nice, with larger/longer spinels down the sides.

I am thinking sort of a reverse of the Victor Barbone Rebel ring, which is my all-time favorite onyx and diamond ring.


Screenshot_20190128-194146_Samsung Internet.jpg

If the spinels need to be larger you could do 2-3 stones per side rather than 3-4 as pictured.
 

elizat

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@elliefire99 thanks! I actually asked if they could do that. I drew a very bad sketch of it. I'm going to send the picture you posted too. It's better than my drawing.
 

elizat

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@marymm thanks- I like the idea and I asking if we can do that!
 

Rfisher

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Silly question
If they can source the pieces shown in the rendering, but not the others, could they source the whole halo in eight pieces?
Alternating with diamonds (or whatever you may) looks pretty as well though if that’s the look you are going for!
 

lambskin

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If you are going to do the black , then do it all around not with the diamond pinwheel look. I am not a fan of the redesign-it looks very busy and masculine. It does not have that 'art deco sleek' look. I am not a fan of black diamonds but could it be done with these in elongated baguettes?
 

Readinglady

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What did you decide? Love Rebel
 

elizat

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@Readinglady well, sourcing the black spinel and the onyx ended up being problematic. I wanted to stick with Jonathan for it, because he has been great to work with. So, it's still a deco style, but we are doing baguette diamonds. I could have taken the setting elsewhere, but felt that they had put a lot of effort into sourcing, and I can live with the alternative. I think it is still a very Deco feel. feel. Here is the rendering:

RENDER.THROUGH.jpg RENDER.PERSPECTIVE.jpg
 
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