OEC - What to know

[breanne]

I don't know a thing about oec's. I'm a bit confused when it comes to the types, from my understanding there are real old cuts, transitional, and updated old cuts? Is an updated old cut called an August vintage?

Also, what about their ratios, do the same numbers apply as a modern round?

 

[LadyMCh]

An old European cut (OEC) is one type, and transitional is another. The do not have the same proportions/numbers as a modern round brilliant (MRB). Due to an increase in their popularity, some cutters are reviving old cuts and using new tech to make a more symmetrical product. I think this is what you're referring to when you say "updated". The August Vintage Round and August Vintage Cushion are examples of branded cuts from Good Old Good that are cut to look like the original old cut diamonds from the early 1900s. I think Victor Canera also does a new branded version of an old cut? Transitional diamonds are from around the time old European cut diamonds were segway-ing into becoming early modern round brilliants. They typically have a teensy culet and a more symmetrical, whereas older cut diamonds are often a bit more "wonky". An OEC will typically have a larger culet and, sometimes, the culet can reflect off of other facets in the stone creating what's called a Kozibe effect. I was fortunate enough to to inherit an OEC. Mine does not have Kozibe, but it has the large, flowery facets that OECs are often beloved for. She has a tiny table at 42%, which most people seem to prefer in an OEC, and a shallow depth of 56.1%. I'm not an expert, just an old cut lover! And I've been trying to learn as much as possible since inheriting "my precious"!

 

[breanne]

I really do seem to be gravitating towards them myself, I currently own a modern round, but I've been really loving the petal look of OEC's, with all those pastel colours!

I just don't know much about them like I do modern rounds, what type of specs are optimal and such. I'd like to get to know what makes them special and brilliant, what to look for, and discard. I've been looking a lot on Grace's instagram, as well as loveaffairdiamonds, OWD too...

If it's a true old cut, I'm sure a lot of things are void? Symmetry, polish etc? Seems a lot over my head, but knowing myself, I'll delve deep and figure it all out with the help of other PS'ers lol.

 

[rubybeth]

If it's a true old cut, I'm sure a lot of things are void? Symmetry, polish etc? Seems a lot over my head, but knowing myself, I'll delve deep and figure it all out with the help of other PS'ers lol.

Symmetry and polish matter to some extent, but if they matter a lot to do, you should prioritize them. I had different priorities when looking for an OEC. In order of importance, this is what I looked for, and why:

1) Size. I absolutely wanted 7mm+ and knew I wouldn't be satisfied with smaller. I ignored carat weight and mainly looked at face up.
2) Price. I knew budget was my second most important factor, as I certainly couldn't bring up an upgrade with my DH for something that didn't make sense with our finances.
3) Pattern. I like various patterns, but I wanted to make sure I really liked it. Flowery, snowflakey, kozibe, etc. were all fine, as long as I loved it.
4) Color. I knew I'd go lower in color to get what I wanted, and I like the look of lower colors.
5) Clarity. Some true antiques have girdle issues, which would be okay since my ultimate plan is to bezel the stone, but VS2 or higher was preferred.
6) Symmetry/polish, etc. I really don't care about those things as long as they don't detract from the stone's beauty or affect durability.
7) Setting. Sometimes old stones come with a hideous setting. I didn't care. Mine was pre-loved and came in a very basic 4 prong setting, which was kind of a bonus temp setting while I save for a $2k plus "dream setting."

Just keep looking at videos and photos, and maybe make a plan to see some true OECs in person, if you can. And if you've only had a MRB for a short time, maybe sit on this for a while to make sure you're okay making the switch. Most people are happy to have done it (there are a few threads on PS about this) but generally they have been very sure about doing it. My original engagement ring is a half carat radiant, so very different from an OEC--but I knew I didn't like MRBs but wanted more spread than with a radiant.

 

[dazzlerazzle]

Places to see TRUE OEC's:
- Jewelsbygrace
- Loveaffairdiamonds
- OldWorldDiamonds (they also have a youtube channel where you can view their stones)

Places that offer Modern Cut OEC's (that I know of):
- GoodOldGold - August Vintage Round (AVR)
- Victor Canera - Canera European Round (CER)

^^ AVR's were the first on the scene, thanks to Jon at GoodOldGold. Plenty of educational videos on YouTube by him - have you seen any of these? To my knowledge, there are currently THREE different AVR "cut patterns," slight variations on the OEC cut that give slightly different proportions and effects. Some have the small tables (<45%) with greater depth while others have tables on the larger side (~50%) paired with shallower depth.

Small table + greater depth: http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond-search/1.29-august_vintage_european-I-AGS-E-VS2-diamond-stock-13297-cert-104078706006

Larger table + shallower: http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond-search/1.14-august_vintage_european-I-AGS-I-SI2-diamond-stock-14234-cert-104085764003

Canera's modern old cuts are also beautiful, plus he has a bench and you get a discount on your setting if you get your stone from him.

I hope DS or someone else more knowledgeable stops by this thread - I am still learning!

 

[iwantsparkle]

We just got one from OWD last month. I had the opportunity to look at a bunch. Every one is different in some way. Whereas two MRBs with similar stats should look pretty much the same.

This is helpful:
http://erstwhilejewelry.com/blogs/stories/old-european-cut-vs-round-brilliant-cut
http://erstwhilejewelry.com/pages/diamond-cuts-old-european-cut

Before PS, I thought I was exclusively interested in MRBs. (I still think they are beautiful.) But, much like many others here, I really fell for OECs. Before I saw them in person I wondered if someone would think I had a warm colored and wonky MRB, but they are just something else in person. And I realized I don't care if others understand them or not.

I saw your other post about how you just got your MRB. Are you thinking of making a switch to an OEC?

 

[breanne]

I did just get mine, and not in any rush to update it, I'm just realizing there is another world of diamonds and settings that I never considered because I had tunnel vision. Now that the excitement and smoke has settled, I'm in no means not in love with my MRB, but I've been able to appreciate other styles, and I keep coming back to warm OEC's with a much thinner setting to mine, as well as paired with a simple wedding band.

It's interesting because I would've bet you money that I would've purchased an eternity band to pair with me ER, but that ship has sailed. I haven't been able to see an OEC in person, I'm hoping to at some point, I kind of have this feeling it's more me... I don't want to get too excited because I need to enjoy and appreciate what I have now, we spent hard earned money and time picking it all out, etc etc. I feel like part of my reasoning to search is because I don't like the prong tips on my setting, so after I got my ER, where I should've stopped looking, I continued to in hopes to find prongs that I actually do like. I'm that process I kept saving OEC's with a thin band. Then, when I started looking for wedding bands, nothing fit my current setting the way I feel is IT.

I think all of these things combined has peaked my interest to look further, like I said I do love my diamond, and the setting is almost perfect, I'd be sad to let it go, but I wonder if there's something else for the near future... I'll take my time and really get to know OEC's like I did MRB's, I enjoy learning anyway!

 

[Queenie60]

Hi Breanne: I understand your dilemma. I looked and looked at OEC's before pulling the trigger. I would suggest you call Erica at Love Affair Diamonds. She was kind enough to talk with me for quite a long time and educate me on OEC's. I was then fortunate enough to go to Washington State to meet with her and see some OEC's in person. I'm hooked!! Give Erica a call, she may take a day or so to get back to you however, she's quite nice and will take the time to explain the differences to you. Also, go to her website, look at the different OEC's on her website, read the descriptions, there are different patterns, flowery, pinwheel, etc. Some have larger tables than others and some have Kozbe effect where the culet reflects throughout the stone. They do not fall within the parameters of a mrb. You can't compare them. I prefer the true old cuts, each and every one is different, with their own personality. The good thing about Erica, she hand picks each of the stones she is selling. If they're on consignment, she discloses that on the profile page of the diamond. Also, check out her instagram, check out Grace's instagram and even Caysie Van Bebber's instagram. Taking your time is a bonus, it will take a while to decide what you like in the OEC world! Enjoy learning, have fun and just keep looking! Good luck to you.