NYC!!! Where to go? And, Boston or Newport too, maybe?

[Loves Vintage]

Hi Everyone!

I am just as confused as ever today. I was pretty set on the idea of the HoF felicity setting, but decided to take a step back and see if there might be something else that interests me. I am two hours from NYC, and will be near Boston and in Newport within the next week. Any suggestions for where I should go?

I know there are limitless options in NYC, but who can I trust and who has the largest selection of vintage/antique/estate rings or newer versions of those styles?

At this point, I am interested in super-thin rings lined in pave, without edging to hold the stones in, because I really want thin shanks. I also want a round center stone, with a very simple crown (I think that''s what we call the part of the setting that the stone sits in, right?) I''ve looked at tons of websites, and I''ve seen some settings that I like, but I do need to do some more looking in person.

Also, as far as vintage rings go, now that I know that these stones would not have been ideal cut, I am considering an older stone too. I looked at the estate ring that I liked through the microscope and noticed some surface scratches. Is it possible for these to be polished out?

Any thoughts, comments, suggestions will be appreciated. I am trying not to be a control freak over all of this, but I''m afraid I''m holding up my own engagement over this!!

At the same time, this ring really must be perfect!!

 

[Nicrez]

Date: 12/3/2007 12:26:58 PM
Author:Loves Vintage
Hi Everyone!

I am just as confused as ever today. I was pretty set on the idea of the HoF felicity setting, but decided to take a step back and see if there might be something else that interests me. I am two hours from NYC, and will be near Boston and in Newport within the next week. Any suggestions for where I should go?

I know there are limitless options in NYC, but who can I trust and who has the largest selection of vintage/antique/estate rings or newer versions of those styles?

At this point, I am interested in super-thin rings lined in pave, without edging to hold the stones in, because I really want thin shanks. I also want a round center stone, with a very simple crown (I think that''s what we call the part of the setting that the stone sits in, right?) I''ve looked at tons of websites, and I''ve seen some settings that I like, but I do need to do some more looking in person.

Also, as far as vintage rings go, now that I know that these stones would not have been ideal cut, I am considering an older stone too. I looked at the estate ring that I liked through the microscope and noticed some surface scratches. Is it possible for these to be polished out?

Any thoughts, comments, suggestions will be appreciated. I am trying not to be a control freak over all of this, but I''m afraid I''m holding up my own engagement over this!!

At the same time, this ring really must be perfect!!

I think in antique and estate rings the imperfections are the rule, as they are previously-loved and have many years on the stones. To repolish a stone is not impossible, but I would certainly NOT suggest it. Several reasons. One, you will likely not find a good jeweler that can take the stone out with no damage. Even good ones can often damage, as prongs may be old and not as strong once heated or bent back by tools.

Another issue is that often cutters will want to remake the stone, and "improve" the stone for you. Some I have known to take liberties of "repairing" symmetry or polish just to "make it look better" when you actually LOSE the look you bought it for.

The other issue I fear is size retention. I only suggest repolishing in cases of larger stones that need a girdle clean-up or simple chip repairs. A good polisher can do it with minimal weight loss. I have seen a VS1 go to a VVS1 with one point loss. THAT was impressive. But a polisher this good will sometimes cost a regular non-industry person (if you even FIND one) sometimes more than the setting would cost you...

It may be a better option for you to simply go with a vintage inspired ring that you can appreciate, since it seems maybe you want a perfect ring, and if vintage and antique rings have anything it''s character, not perfection...(except us nuts who LOVE character AS perfection)...

Truely there are some great reproductions out there that you can always set a stone in, or even get it already set...Many people mention sites on here with reproductions, like Faye Cullen. Look around, see what styles you like most, and print them out for when you go shopping to help in the process. Good luck!

 

[surfgirl]

I agree with Nicrez 100%. My ring has some very very slight chips on one side - you cant seem them at all - and it''s a VVS2 so, again, very minor. I know they''re there though and to me that''s the marker of my stone. I''m very picky but this doesn''t bother me at all.

I think you really need to look at as many old stones as possible, along with new stones, to see which you really like more. They''re VERY different looking in person. You talk of HoF stones, which to me, couldn''t be more different than an old cut, so it sounds like you have some shopping to do!

Also, the ring style you showed in another thread - the diamond center with sapphire halo? Very easy to find and very easy to reproduce. It was a popular style back in the day and if that style is to your liking but you prefer a perfect new stone, it would be quite easy to do I think.

NICREZ! Is it possible to know who are the best old stone polishers around? I think we should start a resource list for old cut owners...

 

[Loves Vintage]

Thank you both! Yes, I know I am using a lot of conflicting terminology. The thing is, I do think a ring with character and imperfections can be perfect. What I meant was -- a ring that is perfect to me, since I''m going to be looking at it for the rest of my life!!

As far as the HoF goes, I love the HoF setting called Felicity. I have not been able to find anything that matches the delicateness of this setting. If I could find a vintage ring with the same delicate character, then that is the direction I think I want to go in.

I don''t think I''ve ever posted a ring with a halo . . . that might have been someone else? Last week, I was babbling about a vintage ring that I was told was an ideal cut, before I even knew what ideal cut was, and it turned out that, of course, it was not.

Thanks again!!

 

[Loves Vintage]

Surfgirl,

Do you have photos of your ring posted in a thread somewhere?

 

[Nicrez]

Date: 12/3/2007 1:20:40 PM
Author: surfgirl
I agree with Nicrez 100%. My ring has some very very slight chips on one side - you cant seem them at all - and it's a VVS2 so, again, very minor. I know they're there though and to me that's the marker of my stone. I'm very picky but this doesn't bother me at all.

I think you really need to look at as many old stones as possible, along with new stones, to see which you really like more. They're VERY different looking in person. You talk of HoF stones, which to me, couldn't be more different than an old cut, so it sounds like you have some shopping to do!

Also, the ring style you showed in another thread - the diamond center with sapphire halo? Very easy to find and very easy to reproduce. It was a popular style back in the day and if that style is to your liking but you prefer a perfect new stone, it would be quite easy to do I think.

NICREZ! Is it possible to know who are the best old stone polishers around? I think we should start a resource list for old cut owners...

Oh Surfgirl! I am currently still looking around for those...and I am in the trade!

Someone THAT good will be very expensive, because it takes many many years of knowing the stones to be good. Also weight estimation is tough, but repolishing estimation to me is harder. Only because when you cut rough, you can use almost any shape to make as LARGE a stone as you can or as HEAVY as you can. Repolishing you want to take off as little as possible and retain the integrity of the cut and look. That to me is a skill beyond measure. reworking someone else's art without leaving your own imprint. So hard...

I think a list would be short, but I can not recommend anyone as if I have anyone, they are local in NY and do not work with the public. They are often the cutters of friends who have employed a cutter in their company, and the cutter knows EXACTLY what the company wants because they have been there so long. Every large diamond-based company willl have at least a trusted cutter on staff. This is the guy who has no memberships, no titles, no popular name or client list, because he's so exclusive to the company he may have never even worked for anyone else in all the 10-40 years he has been cutting!

They are paid very well to stay, because a company knows HE (sometimes SHE) is the person who can save them hundreds of thousands to MILLIONS of dollars every year on each cut.

It's all about personal experience I suppose, and if anyone has a polisher who has worked for them, I suggest a list start that way...?

 

[surfgirl]

Loves, you can check out my ring here:

http://www.pricescope.com/forum/op-requested/at-last-my-antique-ering-t61580.html

Nicrez, I was hoping you knew who the person was that did that amazing girdle polishing that you mentioned up thread...

or is it an urban legend? Perhaps next time I''m in NYC, we can meet up for a meander through 47th and you can point out the old cut specialists???

By the way, since you''re in the biz (sorry to threadjack Loves), do you have any lines on vintage diamond eternity bands?