New ruby ring project

[the_mother_thing]

Because I don't have enough jewelry projects happening all at the same time ... LOL

I really wanted an east/west pear ring (as some may recall from my early Alex ring design plans). Given what I have in progress with several other jewelry projects, I figured it would go on the back burner. Then I stumbled upon this beautiful pre-loved ring with a sapphire cab. I immediately thought it would be perfect if the right pear ever came along, so I bought it with plans to set it aside. Then I stumbled upon this pear ruby whose measurements appeared almost perfect. I ran both items by my jeweler, who said he will definitely be able to put these two together and create a beauty of a ring for me. The ruby arrived today (had the measurements and good pictures to share with jeweler). I am running it up to him this afternoon, but had to share. Ruby is my birthstone (as well as the kiddo) so I am super excited about this project.

The ruby does have a window, but it does not bother me, as the overall color and clarity on this ruby knocked me out of the park! It has no heat, no treatment, no visible inclusions even when magnified, an AGL cert, and is just a hair over 1 1/4ct. The ring is white gold with beautiful, bright white sparkling diamonds, so I know this ring will be a standout when the sapphire cab is replaced with the ruby.

Will definitely post pics when it is finished ... In the mean time, here are both the ring & ruby.

 

[minousbijoux]

Talk about serendipity! I love that you prevailed over stacked odds! Looking forward to seeing it set.

 

[LoversKites]

How lucky! Looking forward to the pics.

 

[the_mother_thing]

Thanks. I am so excited I can't stand it. Here are a couple more pics of the ring. It's so pretty.

 

[katharath]

What a fun project. I love that feeling when things just come together! Looking forward to seeing the ruby in its setting, it looks like a lovely color.

 

[London]

This looks like it is going to be breathtaking and very original too!

Just curious, are the prongs/setting of ruby alone going to be YG, WG, or plat?

 

[the_mother_thing]

I really don't know yet. I left both the ring and the ruby with the jeweler this afternoon. He is going to remove the cab and little diamond in the center opening and look at different options for setting the ruby, and let me know later this week or early next week. My guess is we will use a white metal, though I wondered how rose gold might look. I don't see many rubies set with rose.

 

[London]

I really don't know yet. I left both the ring and the ruby with the jeweler this afternoon. He is going to remove the cab and little diamond in the center opening and look at different options for setting the ruby, and let me know later this week or early next week. My guess is we will use a white metal, though I wondered how rose gold might look. I don't see many rubies set with rose.

Hmmm I dont think I've seen any rubies set in rose either. Although I have seen many set in yellow and personally I love how it looks. Especially the contrast of white metal with white diamonds and yellow metal with ruby. Rose could be interesting too. I'm sure it will look beautiful no matter what you choose

 

[the_mother_thing]

I really don't know yet. I left both the ring and the ruby with the jeweler this afternoon. He is going to remove the cab and little diamond in the center opening and look at different options for setting the ruby, and let me know later this week or early next week. My guess is we will use a white metal, though I wondered how rose gold might look. I don't see many rubies set with rose.

Hmmm I dont think I've seen any rubies set in rose either. Although I have seen many set in yellow and personally I love how it looks. Especially the contrast of white metal with white diamonds and yellow metal with ruby. Rose could be interesting too. I'm sure it will look beautiful no matter what you choose

My fingers are crossed. The rose accent might be too much though, will see. My biggest worry is the gap between the ruby and halo and how we can minimize it without an abundance of metal.

My fingers are also crossed for you finding your ruby.

 

[slksapphire]

i am by no means a setting expert but if there is too much space between the ruby and setting, you might make it look like it was meant to be there, i.e., an airline.

maybe you could set the ruby in a yellow gold half bezel so that it is open underneath to let in light. the metal along the bezel could make the airline look even smaller ...

just a thought. can't wait to see how it turns out.

 

[chrono]

Many rubies are set in yellow gold because it dampens the purple modifier, making it look redder. If a ruby that isn't well saturated is set in a white metal, it will bring out the brown instead of the red.

 

[minousbijoux]

I would caution about the rose gold (my not so secret gold would be at least for yellow gold prongs) and at least check the ruby out first surrounded by rose gold. I actually think it might clash a bit. Good luck.

 

[London]

Many rubies are set in yellow gold because it dampens the purple modifier, making it look redder. If a ruby that isn't well saturated is set in a white metal, it will bring out the brown instead of the red.

Would it also dampen a pink modifier? How would it affect the ruby if it had some orange or blue in it?

 

[chrono]

Would it also dampen a pink modifier? How would it affect the ruby if it had some orange or blue in it?

Pink is a light toned red.
A ruby with either orange or blue modifier will look great in yellow gold. The yellow softens any brown or peachiness (orange modifier) and it also dampens the blue modifier (makes it look redder). When I wrote purple, the more accurate term I should have used is a blue modifier, as you did.

 

[London]

Would it also dampen a pink modifier? How would it affect the ruby if it had some orange or blue in it?

Pink is a light toned red.
A ruby with either orange or blue modifier will look great in yellow gold. The yellow softens any brown or peachiness (orange modifier) and it also dampens the blue modifier (makes it look redder). When I wrote purple, the more accurate term I should have used is a blue modifier, as you did.

Thank you Chrono.

Really good to know once the day comes that I begin my setting process too

 

[the_mother_thing]

I would caution about the rose gold (my not so secret gold would be at least for yellow gold prongs) and at least check the ruby out first surrounded by rose gold. I actually think it might clash a bit. Good luck.

I will definitely do that as soon as he has the setting "disassembled" and we can look at options. You might be right on the clashing.

Many rubies are set in yellow gold because it dampens the purple modifier, making it look redder. If a ruby that isn't well saturated is set in a white metal, it will bring out the brown instead of the red.

Great info, Chrono, thank you!

I will try to snap a few pictures when I go up of the ruby on different options/metals.

 

[the_mother_thing]

Update

Back to the jeweler this afternoon to see the ring and look at finding options for the ruby in the setting. I am SUPER torn here ... I wanted to see how the ruby would look next to Rose gold (thinking okay, this will help rule it out probably). But the opposite happened. I looked at it with just white gold, with yellow gold, and with rose. And I am stuck between the RG or all WG, and leaning RG as a nice accent but not so bold as going YG. I can't love the YG no matter how much I try. It looks too "afterthought-ish" to me.

Thoughts? Again, this will be the basket and prongs, most of which will be hidden down in the halo, so it will just be a little bit of an accent vs bold. There is a little bit of RG scroll work on the basket that might be seen in the airline. I should have taken a pic of that from the catalogue but forgot.

Attaching a couple pictures from the visit to illustrate.

ETA - now that I go back to these pics, I see that the yellow really does make the ruby look more red than the RG and I am going back to it.... Ahhhhhh help me!

 

[FrekeChild]

I'd go yellow gold. I think it suits red the best.

I have a bunch of red spinel melee that I want to set into a band eventually, and I've considered RG and YG, but I think it depends on the style of band and how much the prongs show. I don't have to worry about mine yet though - it'll probably be a long time before it's on the "to be set ASAP" list.

 

[endless_summer]

That ring is going to be such a gorgeous original piece - I love the ruby's color, and I've never seen an E-W pear - it's awesome!

 

[London]

this is a real toughy. Personally, I would go with YG... but you have to go with what sings to you!

 

[the_mother_thing]

Next to the RG, the ruby looks more pink than red, so I think I need to go with the YG because the ruby has (alone) a great, vibrant red color. I just hope we can find a YG finding that doesn't look "afterthoughtish" ... Something that blends well with the overall look of the ring. There was a pretty scrolling one, but it didn't come in the size we need for the ruby, sadly.

Thanks so much for everyone's input & feedback. I really appreciate it!

 

[chrono]

Yellow gold gets my vote. I hope you'll find the right setting for your ruby soon.

 

[the_mother_thing]

I called him this morning, and the mount/setting is being ordered in the YG. It's a stuller mount that has a little bit of scrollwork on the sides and 3 prongs including vtip. It should be done in the next week. Will circle back with pictures when it's completed.

 

[IrishBreakfast]

Oh this is going to look fab!!! Cannot wait to see it finished - what a unique piece!

 

[minousbijoux]

I think you made the right choice - there is something about yellow gold that makes rubies look their best. So when will it likely be ready for you?

 

[the_mother_thing]

Thanks. It should be done later this week or early next week. I will be sure to come back with pictures once it is done.

 

[the_mother_thing]

It's here ... It's here ... It's finally HERE! I couldn't get the greatest pics today due to some rushing to get to church, but I picked up my ring today, and am really happy with how it turned out ... Like the ruby is levitating in the halo! I will certainly try to get better pics tomorrow when I am not so exhausted and rushing around.

And I am SO glad I went with the YG! Thx so much to all who chimed in with suggestions & feedback on this project!

 

[MCAUDI]

What a beautiful ruby. I vote for YG too. I think it looks great with the ruby.

 

[minousbijoux]

Yay!!! I love your description of levitating. Can't wait for more pics and so happy you love it!

 

[the_mother_thing]

Thx much to you both! I am already racking my brain trying to decide what to wear to work tomorrow that might coordinate well with it. THAT'S how I know I have a gem sickness! LOL