New Diamond Setting Requirements?? What!

[mayfieldfan]

I have a .52 ct diamond solitare and found a setting that I loved and my fiance purchased it. The recommended center stone was a half ct. princess cut. It was perfect. I received it and took it to a jeweler to see if he could set the diamond in it. This jeweler was afraid to because my diamond is slightly longer on 2 of the horizontal sides. The cut must not be the greatest. Does this make sense? Can a jeweler fix the prongs to where they mold around the diamond. My current diamond is set in straight prongs, but the new setting is the v-shape prong. The jeweler mentioned something about having to put caps on it?? I''m confused. I left and still have the diamond and the "empty" new setting. O.. how I want to wear it!
Also the diamond setting has diamond on the sides and front and back, and a size 7 im which I need it to be a 5.5 or at least a 6. Would this pressure cause the side diamond to break loose? I''m under a lot of pressure myself. The diamond setting came from diamond.com (can''t I say that?). WHAT PICKLE I''M IN! The company recommended I got another jeweler. They think the first may have not wanted to do such a procedure? I have until Jan 31 to send it back.
Thank you all for your kind attention and help!!
Jess

 

[RockDoc]

Princess cuts can be a headache.

Where are you located? Diamonds.com is in Ft. Lauderdale.

I have an excellent setter that can deal with these issues all the time. If you're in FL, I could send you to him.

If the ring is sized, then special attention will have to paid to the side stones.

rockdoc


Rockdoc

 

[mayfieldfan]

I''m in SW VA. It''s a princess cut stone.

 

[valeria101]

How much non-square that diamond can be ? I can hardly imagine that a setting that cannot be tweaked the smallest amount would be sold off the rack.
Not sure what the situation is - different jewelers may well have different ways to solve whatever technical issue (I read about sizing, and setting with different kinds of prongs in you message). What is the setting like ? Perhaps better suggestions will come with a picture and the size of the diamond available, I think.

Is it more expensive to go for the jeweler recommended by the seller of the ring ?

 

[RockDoc]

Call some of the finer stores there, and see if they can recommend someone who is highly experienced in setting princess cuts.

Call several - and the ones who treat you the best, take it in to meet with their setter.

Possibly some good leads on stores is to go to AGS.org, and see who''s in your area.

Rockdoc

 

[belle]

do you have a picture of your setting?

 

[mayfieldfan]

Well I think it''s perfectly princess.
I live in a small town & ...it''s country country~
I may have to travel to TN to find good jewler. I''m so nervous about this. Especically if I have to send it back! Diamond.com didn''t give me a preferred jeweler; wouldn''t that have saved me some trouble. Frown on them..
I will use the recommended site to find a good jeweler. I will try and get a photo up so you can have an idea. I appreciate you guys..really I do!

 

[mayfieldfan]

Finally!
Here is the picture of my diamond setting below:

Specs:
CTW: .60 cts
Color: H
Clarity: SI
Desc: 18 round-cut diamonds, channel-set on the side, back and front panels and 16 round-cut diamonds, prong-set in a lustrous square framing the open, four-prong center.
Metal: 14K white gold
Ring Size: 7 (to be size to a 5.5)


Minus the center stone and this is it.
What I had to go through with the company to get a picture (whew!). Email Email Email.. Call & Call-

I have a .52ct princess diamond for it. The recommended size was a 1/2 ct... so this should be okay! I''m sure on my soliataire''s measurement though---------
I have an appointment with a jeweler that is 2 hours away in a different state to try and get this baby set. I can see why there may be a problema! I can see where the square frame of diamonds may get in the way of opening the prongs a little wider; hence my diamond being lightly longer on the 2 horizontal of the 4 sides.

Is this a sign from God? Is my marriage meant to be.. ;hence also someone else has eyes for me *eyes wide open

*.

What do you all think about my setting and possibilities?

 

[NyssaLynne]

Beautiful setting. Good choice. I don''t see a problem making it fit if the diamond is only slightly longer on the sides. There seems to be some room for adjustment in there.

 

[mayfieldfan]

I wish I could show you guys an actual picture of the one I have. I don''t have a digital camera anymore.
The prongs are set wider and there doesn''t seem to be room. "getting nervous".. but hoping for the best-

Jessica

 

[mayfieldfan]

I''m not sure what he meant about the caps. You arn''t the first person to ask about the caps. I am glad I didn''t persue this jeweler to do the job. They are v prongs.. My diamond is currently in straight prongs.. I wonder sometimes how the diamond stays in there.. ; )
I actually bought the diamond from an online jewelry store. I don''t think they would allow me to ship my diamond to them for setting.. nor would I take the risk.
The local jeweler shook his head that I bought online. ... but hey! I fell in love with it. I guess he was sad that he didn''t get the sale. He did admit it was a lovely fancy ring setting.
I am actaully traveling to TN on the 17th a very good jeweler and see what they can offer me. I''ve got my fingers crossed, but trying to realize I may get another NO and have to take other measures.. (new diamond..new setting)-

Jessica (bitting nails)

 

[mayfieldfan]

What type of band would go well with this setting? Channel set with diamonds all around it?
Any pictures?
JESSICA

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

No, you are looking at a tricky task. Not one to avoid paying pretty decent money for.

Sizing that one down 1.5 sizes will loosen the diamonds. They are not so much channel set, as they are they grain set within a deep channel (or bead as people say here, though that term has a more specific use for me). When the jeweller cuts out the piece and closes the join the ring WILL bend at the setting. It may look otherwise but it will bend there because of the side set stones and the area where the metal was removed to accommodate for them. The channel walls are very thick – obviously designed to allow for this, but how much strength it yields to the setting, I don’t know, but I suspect in your situation – not enough. They will tighten, but loosen when the ring is brought straight on the mandrill, needing perhaps grains to secure them, as in the case with the channel on the face. The grain set dia''s in the channel will loosen away from the grains. It will require a skilled setter to bring the grains back over the diamonds to their original standard. They are very small. They can secure the diamond only because the diamonds and the grains are not exposed. The seats that are cut in the channel (the channel setting component) are very loose and they had to be, to lower the stones into the deep channel. That is why they used grains to secure the stone. A setter will have to use the existing grains, or move some new metal over the edges of the stones (graining). This is where the skill is involved as it has to be done right the first time.

There is not any allowance for any slow deliberation by the fussy plodding jeweller here. Either the setter digs his graver in the right amount at the right spot and pushes the necessary amount of metal, once, to the spot with the perfect amount of pressure, or he/she will have a groove, which he can’t move metal from and an ill aligned set of diamonds. It is easy for a setter who has experience with mass-production techniques as this the common way stones are set in cheap jewellery because it is very fast. It is also the way Germans set their rub-over style setting. They use slight grains that you can barely see to great affect.

I''ll assume the jeweller you mention is thinking of soldering a cap over the v''claw after the stone is set. This is something I do from time to time and it invariably makes for a far more secure setting then any v''claw (oops v''prong here). It is necessary where the jeweller doesn''t think there is enough metal to secure the claws. The stone in your photo has enough metal, but just. It may be overkill, but he is clearly thinking of the stones security. The process is akin to a re-tipping job and should not cost more. I know that different jewellers charge a massively different amount for re-tipping. This is an instance where a skilfully melted bit of solder over the ‘v’ would suffice. The cap is very small and there is not much to it so it shouldn''t fall into the high cost bracket where a whole prong was replaced. Most jewellers don''t make that distinction.

So that is my view.

Your jeweller would not want the job where he couldn''t convey to you the possible complications. It may be that the side stones stay put and need only a little tweaking. In my experience the average jeweller could not do this properly even if the fundamentals of the ring stay put. Maybe also, the centre setting has enough metal to set your p''cut as planned, but these issues are very real and your beautiful ring would be compromised if you weren’t prepared to take the likely complications into account.

Think of what you paid for the ring and the stones. Do not begrudge the jeweller/setter their earnings if they are prepared to competently ensure your rings finished build; workmanship that befits the excellent work that has gone into it thus far.

 

[mayfieldfan]

Thank you so much for your insight.

I orginally ordered the 5.5 and a 7 was sent. The company has agreed for me to send this ring back and size it for me. I will ask the jeweler first if he thinks he can set the diamond. In the case he cannot, I can send the entire setting back (sad face). If I have it sized, I cannot send it back.

Hope minus 40 points.. ouch!

-Jessica

 

[mayfieldfan]

In the case that I have to purchase a new setting, does anyone have any suggestions where I can find a setting similiar to mind?
I''m feel a tear coming on.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Absolutely, definateltly, do-not-pass-go get the sizing done by the company who you bought the ring from. The huge bulk of potential complications come from the resizing - don''t be impatient if it comes to that! If there is a sizing problem in their eyes then I''d imagine that for a ring in thier catalogue they would just use another model, or resize the wax and start from scratch. Withstanding, they might even re-callibrate the centre stone (if in fat it needs to be) leaving you with not a single issue to wory about.

This would be of great value to you because the measures I suggested were only achievable from skilled operators, who must be paid for their time.

All of this is bunk if they only have only a handfull of jewellers at their disposal and source their products from 3rd world sweat shops as e-tailers often do. Direct them to this link and let them contend for themselves, if you can...

I highly doubt they will let you walk out the door with a substandard setting by what you have said. They have acess to some pretty skillfull bench workers and it is obvious, by your photos. That setting didn''t happen by chance, so definately persue that avenue.

You can tell I happen to like this design. It is unconventional but skillfully designed. I can''t comment on a replacement type as I am not in the US. I guess you have to vary your design hopes for side stones, should a redign be necessary. I don''t like side stones myself, but I have a different clientele in my country. I am not in the states and tastes vary.

Good luck with it all. There is little chance you will get a resized version with the flaws I have furnished my worries about. The centre stone is a side issue. Maybe you can send it along as a side issue and let the one place be resposible for the whole job. I wouldn''t give up on them just yet - you won''t save time, nor money.

They have a lot to loose by doing a poor job and much to gain by proving their support and willingness to impress.

Phill

 

[mayfieldfan]

I''m this close *holding up right hand in a pinch position*! to throwing my setting into the ocean.. or sensibly return it to diamond.com for good and then crawl under a rock!

Diamond.com called today but I wasn''t here so a message was left with an extension. I called when I got home and no one was at that ext. I rang customer service. The man offered a return # and they would size it and return it back to me in 5 days. But again I reminded him that the sizing was their fault. I didn''t hear what I wanted ("yes madam'' we''ll pay for shipping and insurance since it was our fault"). Instead, I am to ship it back insured. Can you see the steam coming out my ears?

BUT I was polite. Tomorrow I am going to call the ext# given on my answering machine and see if she has something better to offer me. I''m a customer in distress for goodness sake! *fighting for a grin*. I am ALSO going to ask if I give them my diamond specifics, if they will fix the mount for my "unique" diamond. Do you think is too much to ask and do you think they will?

If not, the very nice people @ NICERING have offered to set my diamond if I send it and purchase a setting from them or they will fix a purchased setting mount to my diamond specifics.

Oh how I''m glad I found this very informative website with so many suggestions and answers from such knowledgeable members. If I have only known of this great forum before I ordered.

AGAIN... T H A N K Y O U

 

[fire&ice]

Wait a minute. Am I hearing correctly that you *ORDERED* a size 5.5 and they *SENT* you a size 7? If so, they should take the ring back & *order* one in the size you requested. PERIOD. They shouldn''t be sizing it for you. 1 1/2 sizing job with all those little diamonds could be a recipe for disaster.

If I am correct about the above senerio, then you did not receive what you paid for.

 

[mayfieldfan]

That''s right, I didn''t get what I paid for. They are going to hear from me today.

Thank You

 

[pearcrazy]

I''m with F&I, they should take back the old setting and send you a new one. They should order a UPS pickup for the setting with the insurance already paid for by them, they should send you a new setting with no further cost to you, you''ve already paid for your part and shouldn''t have to pay any more for THEIR mistake.

 

[Little]

Date: 1/11/2005 10:49:49 AM
Author: fire&ice
Wait a minute. Am I hearing correctly that you *ORDERED* a size 5.5 and they *SENT* you a size 7? If so, they should take the ring back & *order* one in the size you requested. PERIOD. They shouldn''t be sizing it for you. 1 1/2 sizing job with all those little diamonds could be a recipe for disaster.


If I am correct about the above senerio, then you did not receive what you paid for.

Hi Jess, I had to chime in... I totally agree with fire&ice. They should make you a completely new ring. Sizing down even a whole size WILL mess it up. It happened to me and luckily the vendor I am working with is top notch with customer service. They are making me a completely new ring and paid for the FedEx shipping. (I''ll post pictures when I get it at the end of the month.) Your ring should be what you ordered, correct size and all!

Little

 

[mayfieldfan]

Update:

Diamond.com has called me back this morning. I have been talking to reps for days, and this was no rep. She seemed to know what she was talking about and "wanted" to help me.
They have a few ways to go. First they want me to let them know my diamond''s measurements and color. I can''t believe they are finally working with me! They may have to custom it! I also asked about me sending it back and them making me a new one with the correct mounting for my diamond measurements. So- here I go again.

I''m stunned that they are wanting to work with me.. let''s just see "how well" they do.

Thank you for your support

JESSICA

 

[mayfieldfan]

Update:

I UPS''d my problem ring back to Forida! They are making me a whole new ring to match my diamond specs. I do hope it will be perfect. I will post as soon as I get it. Say a prayer or two.. or three!

Jessica