Need your opinion, experts !

[Stephan]

As I told on this forum, Paul-Antwerp (Infinity Diamonds) will cut a diamond for me. He is very friendly and took a lot of time to find the right diamond to re-cut for me. Now he found the diamond. In the beginning, I was looking for a FIC, but if Paul recut this diamond, the yeld will be to bad. So we decided to cut a TIC.

depth : 59.7%
table : 56.2%
crown : 34.4°
pavilion : 40.6°
girdle : thin to medium
star : 50%
lower girdle : 80%

Paul will try to cut the stone this way, and I am very impatient.
Experts, could you run your DiamCalc or other tool?
I''d love to see the result, I''m just like a kid.
I think Paul knows his job.
Thanks!

 

[Mara]

0.5 on the HCA... EX EX EX EX




One thing I would ask Paul is if he feels there will be any compromise on contrast since the HCA score is so low. That has been debated about recently, and everyone has their own opinion. Would be interesting to hear what Paul has to say.




On first glance I thought that the depth was a little shallow with the depth under 60, but it must work well with the other #'s. Though the HCA still gives it 4 EX's all the way up to 60.3 on depth. Interesting stuff, not sure what the visual differences would be!




Please let us know how things go Stephan!

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Paul is no fool.
He has designed a diamond with a slightly fatter star and this will produce more fire

i will run a DiamCalc if i get time before leaving for dinner

the contrast and light return will be slightly reduced because of this, but as you will have read - brilliance is the enemy of fire!

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

here you are stephan

 

[Stephan]

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On 2/2/2004 2:09:57 AM Cut Nut wrote:

the contrast and light return will be slightly reduced because of this, but as you will have read - brilliance is the enemy of fire!
----------------

Yes Gary, I am not an expert but I agree with you. On other forums, people seem not to agree, but I think that on Pricescope, everybody agree.

Here is the diamond of Derek in L.A., it's a G-SI1, don't remember the size. Derek will tell you that the contrast is gorgeous if you ask him. It's a 0.3 TIC.
Some cutters will tell you that you loose contrast with such a HCA score, I don't know, perhaps they are afraid that people don't buy their slightly deep diamonds...

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Thanks

 

[Stephan]

Thanks for the simulation, Garry !!!
Are the grey arrows a problem?

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

No - all the other red reflector scopes show grey arrows if you wind up the backlight - but some people / organisations dont like to admit that even the balck arrows leak a bit. It is normal.

 

[Stephan]

I still didn't choose a setting (men ring) for this 3ct rock.
The problem is that I don't like bezel-settings.
Do you have any idea?
Thank you all!

 

[Stephan]

Still no idea for my ring?

 

[tonysgeko]

Stephan, are prongs in this ring ok with you? So the tension setting is definitely out as well? I'll do a search and treat this as if it were my diamond

and see what I come up with.

 

[Rhino]

Is that 80% lower girdle depth or lower girdle length? To understand the difference and how it can impact appearance you'll need to check out our tutorial on the minor facets.




Length vs depth we find there to be approximately a 3% difference between the measurements and DiamCalc uses the "depth" measurement as opposed to the "length" measurement so if your stone has an 80% lower girdle "length" we would need to compensate that in the DiamCalc with approx. an 83% length. Curious.

 

[Rhino]

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On 2/2/2004 2:09:57 AM Cut Nut wrote:




He has designed a diamond with a slightly fatter star and this will produce more fire

----------------

I would not consider 50% stars to be of the larger variety. My personal opinion is that stars of the 45-53% variety are of the smallest range cut. 54-57% medium, and 58% and above of the larger variety.

Gary is totally correct in his statement however that larger stars will produce more fire but to that I would have to add... *when they are coupled with the proper lower girdle length*. Cutting larger stars are in and of themselves not as effective if the lower girdles do not compensate and compliment.

Peace,

 

[valeria101]

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On 2/3/2004 9:30:08 AM Stephan wrote:

Still no idea for my ring?----------------

There were a few related threads since I joined PS, but none amassed much ingenuity; tension settings, gipsy, bezels and versions of the belcher setting are mentioned on most and that's it. One thing I know: prongs are not exactly mainstream on men's rings... bar some fashion courage.

Below are a couple of ideas I like, do not involve a bezel and look male. But otherwise, how about taking pen and paper and going the design route where few seem to have went before ? You have already got some serious mileage with the stone, isn't it

One

Two

 

[Stephan]

----------------
On 2/3/2004 12:12:22 PM Rhino wrote:


Is that 80% lower girdle depth or lower girdle length? To understand the difference and how it can impact appearance you'll need to check out our tutorial on the minor facets.

----------------

I don't know, Jonathan, I have to ask Paul.
Thank you!

 

[Stephan]

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On 2/3/2004 11:47:46 AM tonysgeko wrote:

Stephan, are prongs in this ring ok with you? So the tension setting is definitely out as well? I'll do a search and treat this as if it were my diamond

and see what I come up with.

----------------

Thank you, tonysgeko !
I love tension settings and prongs, but I didn't find such a men ring for a 3ct !
So difficult !

 

[Stephan]

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On 2/3/2004 1:49:47 PM valeria101 wrote:

Below are a couple of ideas I like, do not involve a bezel and look male. But otherwise, how about taking pen and paper and going the design route where few seem to have went before ? You have already got some serious mileage with the stone, isn't it

One

Two
----------------

Yes, the look of the bezel is OK, but I think that it makes your stone looks smaller by hiding a little part of it.
Thank you for the links, valeria !
My dream is a tension setting.

 

[valeria101]

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On 2/4/2004 3:14:26 AM Stephan wrote:
My dream is a tension setting.
----------------

And quite understandably so! Ti? Plat? If the band is going to be as wide as the stone, you are in for quite a piece

I just remembered of this one (below) and thought of adding it up here; not sure if even less metal can be left to touch the stone without teaching diamonds to fly...

 

[valeria101]

 

[Stephan]

That's a nice piece, Valeria !!!
I don't know if a tension setting would look great with such a big diamond, but it's really my dream.
Is titan easy to scratch? It could be nice with the L-color.

 

[valeria101]

The ring above does not seem like the end of the world to make and i loved the way teh setting protects te stones without swamping it in metal - this is important for a soft-stone fan like me. I was thinking Mocume Gane and red spinel for that ring model... this is why it ended up on my HD.

Ti: scrateches, just about as platinum does if not a bit more. I guess the "sating finish" is considered the most durable in Ti, and, to be honest, the dark color of this finish and, say, a YG inlay to call the diamond hue "brother" would not be bad at all - if you like the idea. Although, even if the ring ends up chunky, it will not weigh too much given the ridiculous specific gravity of Ti.

Actually, jewelry sites ate a good source of Ti specs (such as at titanium-rings.com). This store had posted the only other 3cts I know of in a tI tension setting - and EC ring I posted on an older thread (about EC settings).

There are a bunch of Ti designs suitable for larger stones (although custom is the only way given the size of the diamond). I guess the one major difficulty created by the size of the stone would be that a simple tension band does not have more than it's own thickness to hold the diamond afloat, so yours will have to be 7-8mm diameter in section

near the stone. But there are plenty of Ti tension designs circumventing this issue,for example: WWW , WWW , WWWetc.

 

[Griffin]

If you want to the look of tension set, but don't want to use exotic material, try a pressure set design. This allows for some metal underneath the stone, thus tying the ring together, making it a whole lot stronger and removing the tendency to cam open on you.
It looks great in strong men's pieces, especially with a larger stone.

 

[Griffin]

Here is another one. This one is only Silver and Rhodolite, but it will give you an idea.

 

[tonysgeko]

Griffin, I like that first ring, awesome! Found a similar one, in that, it has metal underneath sunjewelry . This second one has 4 points holding the stone also from sunjewelry2 .
Here are some with prongs Stephan, diamondgoldexchangle .

 

[Stephan]

Thank you all for your kind advices and great ideas!
I prefer this link, found by valeria101. I don't know if I cand find something like this in Belgium, where I live. I just love it!

 

[Stephan]

I love this setting from Gelin & Abaci.
Can I find that in Belgium?

 

[valeria101]

Belgium... can a jeweler order a G&A setting for you? The setting will have to be custom made (G&A claims to customize all settings for a given stone) for a 3cts hunk

. Those thick band tips holding the stone will get towards 1 cubic centimeter... each!

 

[Stephan]

----------------
On 2/3/2004 12:20:07 PM Rhino wrote:

I would not consider 50% stars to be of the larger variety. My personal opinion is that stars of the 45-53% variety are of the smallest range cut. 54-57% medium, and 58% and above of the larger variety.

Gary is totally correct in his statement however that larger stars will produce more fire but to that I would have to add... *when they are coupled with the proper lower girdle length*. Cutting larger stars are in and of themselves not as effective if the lower girdles do not compensate and compliment.

Peace,
----------------

Yes Jonathan, stars and lower girdles have to be coupled.
But I think that you have to take consideration of the table width too, if you are looking for the ideal lower girdle for a certain star.
Here is another simulation of my stone, enjoy...

 

[Stephan]

Here is another pic.
This simulation has 50% stars view from above, the pic above has 50% stars length.
Curious to know which way Paul will cut the stars?

 

[Stephan]

It woul be better to talk in angles, even for the lower and upper girdle and for the stars. Percentages are not so good.