shape
carat
color
clarity

Need PS wisdom: bezel or prong-set OEC 5-stone?

evergreen

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
851
You know how you get a song stuck in your head and it just won't go away? That's how I've been about 5-stone rings... since January. But especially over the last several days, stuck at home with a head cold. (Have to sit up and read PS to breathe through my nose! And oh, the inspiration on here...!) I think it's time for next steps!

I'll be wearing it as a RHR or in lieu of wedding set (platinum), and probably not stacking it with anything since it will be so fabulous it will stand alone. I'd like the stones to go about 36% of the way around the ring - yes, I have done the math! - and that puts me in the 1.25-1.75cttw range on a size 6.5 finger.

But to know exactly what diameters to look for (or, at least, what cumulative diameter would work), I need to decide on bezeled vs prong-set. So now I'm weighing pros and cons of bezel vs prong with little OECs and need your help!

Bezel example: (from cheapo eBay seller of diamond things... but no, we are not going to give up on our OEC dreams!)

leonsjewelry_bezel.jpg

Pro bezel: Well, all my rings are bezel. Literally all of them. I like the way it looks, protecting the stone and giving them a little more visual impact. It also might help the diameters look a little less wonky, and give me a bit more leeway with turning rovals or chubby cushion-adjacent cuts into matching rounds. And, in case it's hard to find enough in the same color range, maybe a little more visual separation would smooth over those differences, too. But how easy will it be to bezel nonstandard OEC wonky roval shapes, and keep it looking smoothly connected like the example?

Prong example: (I'd probably go with a standard (gorgeous) U-prong, like woofmama's BGD beauty)

woofmama_170ctw_sz725_bgd_uprong_profile.jpg

Pro-prong: Well, what a gorgeous ring. It gives me little flutters of delight in a way the bezeled ring doesn't. From the top, all you see is diamonds (and, well, from the side too, practically). But can I subject OECs, with their extremely thin girdles and maybe already a few flea-bites, to such an open setting? I am also not careful with my rings and am explicitly grateful for the sturdy bezel around my e-ring OEC at least a couple times a week. I don't know that these little old diamonds really deserve such unkind treatment, and I'm pretty sure that the first chip I get, the ring goes into the jewelry box and stays there forever. :(sad Also, without the intervening 1mm-ish of gold between each diamond, I'm looking at 4.8mm diamonds which is getting up there. (I didn't mention a budget... it's more, try to get the best deal within the goal parameters. Probably $2-3k? North of $3000 would make me sad, mostly because I feel like I ought to be able to accomplish this with patience and <$3000.)

So, wearers and lovers of 5-stone rings, what's your advice? Is it going to be prohibitively difficult to bezel slightly irregular OECs, or prohibitively risky to prong-set them? :shock: Or what about semi-bezel options or more protective prongs or other hybrid designs?

Has anyone else had to make this choice -- form vs function -- and is happy with what she decided, or wishes she'd gone the other way?
 
I think both are lovely options….but I have to say I'm a sucker for the bezel set 5-stones (especially with old cuts)!! I like how a small/delicate bezel looks but I also like the protection the bezel gives the stones as you mentioned. I recently had CvB Inspired Design make me a 5-stone with some old cushions (they were plucked from an old broach) and I get sooooo many complements on it!! Needless to say I might be biased because I have a bezel set 5-stone with old stones but I really do love the look!!

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/a-modern-day-make-over-5-stone-antique-cushion-ring-by-cvb.209190/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/a-modern-day-make-over-5-stone-antique-cushion-ring-by-cvb.209190/[/URL]
 
Whoooooa, IceQueen, that is just gorgeous. :love: The bezels are delicate perfection, and with that gallery...! I've heard/seen such good things about CvB's work and great to hear another endorsement of someone who is very comfortable - and extremely capable -working with old stones.

p.s. do you have any new photos of your ring? Especially from the side, since Caysie's is a little obscured? :naughty:
 
I unfortunately don't have any good hand shots or other pics (I'm an AWFUL photographer)!! Here are 2 I just took with my iPhone...warning they aren't great, but does show the detail of the gallery. Caysie is super artistic and creative....she can do so many different and beautiful designs in the gallery!

_30184.jpg

_30185.jpg
 
ICE QUEEN, YOUR ring is truly lovely. I have been stalking it and drooling over it on CVB's FaceBook for months. Oh how I wished I liked a roundish shape on my stubby little fingers.

Evergreen, It sounds like you are just a bezel girl. I think if you can get the gallery to be different and beautiful you will get the best of both worlds, a pretty view for you and protection for your antique stones.

I can not wait to see what you decide. :naughty:

:bigsmile:
 
I have to say that this is one of my favorite settings at the moment. It is prong set so it doesnt block light the way a bezel does
(face it, we're not talking perfectly cut stones) but it also has a little more protection of the girdle area. It also give you some
separation so differences in color/shape are not as apparent.

http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/1-68ctw-oec-addylin-5-stone-band/

I'm also thinking about doing a graduated 5 stones...so I have been pondering all these questions.

What do you think of that setting? Not sure if it's the style you are going after.
 
Do a collet set bezel (bezel only the girdle, leaving the pavilion open). It seems like the best of both worlds in that the girdle is protected yet lots of light can get in from all angles.
 
Chrono, do you mean like this Sholdt at LAD that I've intermittently fallen in love with? http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/1-38ctw-old-european-cut-diamond-5-stone-band-in-sholdt-r-560/ The bezels are a little thicker than I think they ought to be, though I don't know if that's a style choice or a durability/structural requirement. Collet-set sounds exactly like what I should go for, for performance reasons!

tyty, prong-setting low within a bezel-type surround would seem to be a perfect solution, but for some reason that particular setting -- while objectively gorgeous -- isn't perfect for me. Maybe because there's too much space between the diamonds, and the air line between the diamond and not-really-bezel interrupts the flow? Or something? Although I definitely appreciate others' fabulous, ornate, detailed settings, they're not really my style. I think a little detail in the gallery, like IceQueen's, is the most I'd go for, with a simple top-down appearance (maybe even minus the milgrain). What do you think of the Sholdt? (Maybe, since you love the Addilyn and not the Sholdt, your description would help me understand how to put into words the direction I want to go!)

lovemybling, oh boy, I really think you're right about me being a bezel girl. :oops: If there was no issue with it being harder to bezel off-round stones (which... it is, right? i'm not making that up?) I'd bezel in a heartbeat. Or if AVRs were in budget. Heh. (Pretty sure they're not, but GOG is looking into it.)
 
Yeah, those Sholdt bezels are pretty... robust. It's almost like, why bother collet setting them (hee, thanks, Chrono, using grownup words now! :dance: ) if you're going to obscure so much of the diamond? I'm putting together a design in PowerPoint and hoping to get some wisdom about whether it's too structurally weak to succeed... more soon.
 
Okay, can anybody with metalworking/jewelrymaking experience weigh in on feasibility, and/or anybody with looking-at-jewelry experience want to weigh in on aesthetics?

screen_shot_2015-05-13_at_1.png

screen_shot_2015-05-13_at_1_0.png

Imagine that you have a single-shared-prong setting, and you connect the single prongs with a bezel. This is kind of similar, from Etsy vendor rosadosbox (though where the single prong is connected to those next to it, the "swoop" is below the diamond's girdle so you can't see it). Probably would milgrain inside the bezels. If this was CAD/cast (seems most likely how I'd do it), I guess the jeweler would drop the diamond in from the top and press the lip down to hold the stone in there?

rosadosbox_etsy_side.jpg

rosadosbox_etsy_top.jpg

Thoughts? I guess once I nail down a design, then I can choose a jeweler who might be able to execute it!
 
Skhii|1431551457|3876234 said:


I was just thinking of that ring during this thread. A 5 stone like that would be gorgeous! Instead of having that last curly-q next
to the shank it would be your outter 2 diamonds. That would be really lovely!
 
Lookinagain's ring is beautiful -- thanks for posting it, Skhii! That's the vertical "thickness" of bezel I'm looking for - enough so it looks sturdy (and clearly in her ring it's strong enough stand alone as a bridge) but not obscuring so much of the pretty pavilion. I don't know if my vision of a smaller intersection between the bezels would be as strong, particularly in a five-stone, but I also don't know how big of a concern that is. :?:

Definitely think I should put Ilya in my list of jewelers to talk to!
 
GET 3 FREE HCA RESULTS JOIN THE FORUM. ASK FOR HELP
Top