Need help with choosing Emerald Cut ring

[harley_2018]

Hi there! Just registered here to seek out advice on the Emerald Cut.

After many hours and long nights of extensive search, I have narrowed down my options to two 1ct ECs. Both are G Color, VVS1 Clarity, Excellent Polish and Symmetry, No Fluorescence. I have asked for the ASET images of both, but frankly do not understand much in how they perform in terms of light. Could somebody with more expertise, please, give me your thoughts on the two images?

1:



2:

 

[rockysalamander]

Not an EC expert, but both ASET shows some dead steps. But, you really need a video to see how it moves. Is there a video available?

calling EC loving PS members....@Matthews1127 @OoohShiny @tyty333 @mrs-b

This ASET along with a great video performance ended up being a winner for another poster. Can you see how there are no white steps and the green is distributed throughout the corners?

 

[Matthews1127]

Agree w/ @rockysalamander. Too much voided area along the steps for either to be strong contenders, based SOLELY on static ASET images.
Granted, ASET’s are necessary, when dealing with step cut diamonds, one must use MULTIPLE visual aids, and, ultimately, one’s up close & personal, naked eye exam to truly determine a keeper!
Do you have a video of either/both of these stones?
If not, please let us help you find alternatives.
What is your budget?
Preferences?
Where are you located in the world? Do you have a preferred online vendor you’d prefer to use over others?
I will bend over backwards to help you find the EC of your dreams. Just give me a little more info!
Welcome to the step cut club!

 

[marcy]

Step cuts are awesome. Here are my 2 ASET images (EC earrings) and they are great performers

 

[harley_2018]

Thank you all for your thoughts!

@Matthews1127 You are so nice, omg! I actually didn't post the links, because of what you said in the other thread, that some people may snatch my diamond before me But since you say they are not perfect, I do not mind:

1 -
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.03-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-4683597

2 -
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.01-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-4822087

My preferred vendor is James Allen, but I'm open to Blue Nile and Zoara, even though I do not like their websites very much as they usually lack photos/videos. I live in Spain and plan to order the diamond in about 2 weeks from now. Then I'll go to my jeweller to put it in a custom design ring.

The budget is around 5000 euro (excluding VAT, which will be almost 1k on top of that ). I want it to be 1ct in weight, maybe a few hundredths more. Have had a strong obsession on flawless clarity, but stepped down a bit to VVS1 in order to widen my options. Color G or F, cause I would like it to look completely white, but don't wanna overpay for E or D. Excellent polish and symmetry, table and depth between 60 and 70. No Fluorescence.

Appreciate your help!! Glad to join the club

 

[Matthews1127]

Thank you all for your thoughts!

@Matthews1127 You are so nice, omg! I actually didn't post the links, because of what you said in the other thread, that some people may snatch my diamond before me But since you say they are not perfect, I do not mind:

1 -
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.03-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-4683597

2 -
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.01-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-4822087

My preferred vendor is James Allen, but I'm open to Blue Nile and Zoara, even though I do not like their websites very much as they usually lack photos/videos. I live in Spain and plan to order the diamond in about 2 weeks from now. Then I'll go to my jeweller to put it in a custom design ring.

The budget is around 5000 euro (excluding VAT, which will be almost 1k on top of that ). I want it to be 1ct in weight, maybe a few hundredths more. Have had a strong obsession on flawless clarity, but stepped down a bit to VVS1 in order to widen my options. Color G or F, cause I would like it to look completely white, but don't wanna overpay for E or D. Excellent polish and symmetry, table and depth between 60 and 70. No Fluorescence.

Appreciate your help!! Glad to join the club

They are both NICE performers, but I believe you can do better.
Let me see what I can do to help you!
Thank you for putting yourself out there; it’s true, lurkers will stalk a thread & snatch options suggested up, quickly.
I will post suggestions, and indicate which I believe you should place on hold to ensure no one has the opportunity to “steal” it...lol!!
So happy to have you in the club!! This is so exciting!!

 

[rockysalamander]

Relative to the high clarity. Our job here is education, so I'm going to educate. Diamonds are graded for flaws under 10x magnification. Why 10x? My grandmother used to say that was because it was better than the most eagle-eyed person without magnification. So, per GIA and IF diamond has "No inclusions and only blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification". So, there are blemishes, but no inclusions. But, those very same inclusions that hide at 10x are visible 11x, 15x, 20x, 100x. Just not 10x magnification. And, there are certainly blemishes. My point is that there nothing perfect about an IF diamond. Its about the level of magnification and skill of the viewer. If IF is culturally important, then I'm not here to change that. But, I think its important to put the world "flawless" into perspective. We usually encourage posters to be open to "eye-clean" at 6-8" unless the "mind clean" will trip you up.

Also, anything you see today may be gone in 1 day (let alone 2 weeks). You should be prepared to buy a stone that suits as soon as it come along.

When comparing EC, compare by size in millimeters, not carat weight. Weight varies too much and often a smaller weight may have a larger spread.

A few that are a sure thing from Brian Gavin and his signature ideal.
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...s/0.878-h-if-emerald-diamond-ags-104096901002 {you can get IF, but you'll give us some size and color to stay in budget. 4.81 X 6.50 X 3.20}
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/.../0.860-h-vs2-emerald-diamond-ags-104097519003 {4.76 X 6.47 X 3.17; nearly $2k less by dropping to VS2 with not a thing to see. The tiny feather is lost in the facets}

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/.../1.081-h-vs1-emerald-diamond-ags-104097911007 {If you have any budget flexibility, this gets you both size and high clarity. 5.15 X 7.05 X 3.42}

Can you post our inspirations for a setting? Maybe we can help on that to while @Matthews1127 and others post other options.

 

[Matthews1127]

Here are some possibilities. Keep in mind that you are viewing these diamonds while they are sitting on Pavilion 3. The optimal position to view a step cut diamond is N-S, not tilted on P3.
Both of these diamonds should be placed on HOLD, ASAP for further examination. You will need a BETTER video (ask JA if they can send you videos of the diamonds not resting, and in different lighting environments), and ASET’s for each.
I believe you will be pleased that I was able to stay within your preference range, and within your budget. I don’t know your sweet spot for l x w ratio. These are not as elongated as I* prefer, but they fall into the more popular l x w ratio.
There were 3 that I found that I believe were close contenders, but one disappeared, during my search. It was 1.07 F/G VVS on JA. Not sure what happened, but perhaps you will be able to find it. It fell within budget, as well.

PLEASE PLACE THESE ON HOLD, NOW!

I will continue my search.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.03-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-4683597

https://www.diamdb.com/diamond/1.06ct-emerald-6.76x4.91x3.31/

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.01-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-4822087

https://www.diamdb.com/diamond/1.01ct-emerald-6.43x4.92x3.32/

 

[Matthews1127]

Relative to the high clarity. Our job here is education, so I'm going to educate. Diamonds are graded for flaws under 10x magnification. Why 10x? My grandmother used to say that was because it was better than the most eagle-eyed person without magnification. So, per GIA and IF diamond has "No inclusions and only blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification". So, there are blemishes, but no inclusions. But, those very same inclusions that hide at 10x are visible 11x, 15x, 20x, 100x. Just not 10x magnification. And, there are certainly blemishes. My point is that there nothing perfect about an IF diamond. Its about the level of magnification and skill of the viewer. If IF is culturally important, then I'm not here to change that. But, I think its important to put the world "flawless" into perspective. We usually encourage posters to be open to "eye-clean" at 6-8" unless the "mind clean" will trip you up.

Also, anything you see today may be gone in 1 day (let alone 2 weeks). You should be prepared to buy a stone that suits as soon as it come along.

When comparing EC, compare by size in millimeters, not carat weight. Weight varies too much and often a smaller weight may have a larger spread.

A few that are a sure thing from Brian Gavin and his signature ideal.
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...s/0.878-h-if-emerald-diamond-ags-104096901002 {you can get IF, but you'll give us some size and color to stay in budget. 4.81 X 6.50 X 3.20}
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/.../0.860-h-vs2-emerald-diamond-ags-104097519003 {4.76 X 6.47 X 3.17; nearly $2k less by dropping to VS2 with not a thing to see. The tiny feather is lost in the facets}

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/.../1.081-h-vs1-emerald-diamond-ags-104097911007 {If you have any budget flexibility, this gets you both size and high clarity. 5.15 X 7.05 X 3.42}

Can you post our inspirations for a setting? Maybe we can help on that to while @Matthews1127 and others post other options.

Of the above 3 suggestions, my favorite is BG 1.08HVS.
Compared to the JA 1.01GVVS, here is how they look on a 5.5 finger. The 1.08 wins, in my book, but this is your budget, and you have to decide what you are able to do. BG Signature/Blue Ideal EC’s are a step cut lover’s dream come true; they are the only true ideal cut EC’s on the market. Very much worth the extra $$$.

The cut is superior, which will add brightness & whiteness to an H colored stone. Quite frankly, the difference between an Ideal cut H & EX Cut G will be extremely difficult to detect in almost all lighting environments. VVS clarity is almost overkill, if you have a crystal clear, eye clean VS, Ideal.
Please keep this all in mind.
BG 1.08HVS reminds me very much of my own EC, as far as design & pattern. My EC is 1.07GSI2 (which is a joke because I’ve seen it under magnification, and it beats VS graded EC’s...lol). The l x w ratio of my EC is 1.45:1. I love the rectangular EC’s, but that’s my preference.
https://www.diamdb.com/compare/1.01ct-emerald-6.43x4.92x3.32-vs-1.08ct-emerald-7.05x5.15x3.42/

 

[Matthews1127]

While Blue Nile has amazing diamonds, and wide selection, I will caution you: they do not provide ASET’s for any of their diamonds. ASET images are vital, when purchasing a step cut diamond, online.
Please bear this in mind.

 

[Matthews1127]

I must also refer you to Karl Keith at DBL. If anyone has knowledge re: step cut diamonds, it’s @Karl_K.
I would implore you to reach out to him at DBL, and see if he can source an EC for you, based upon your specs & budget. He has taught me so much about step cuts (I knew quite a bit, prior to meeting him, but he shared so much more with me, and I am eternally grateful to him for the fountain of knowledge I acquired from him).
Please shoot HIM an email, or call via phone and ask for HIM. You can tell him I referred you. I’d also tell him you want “PS standard EC’s only”. He’ll know what that means.

http://www.diamondsbylauren.com/

 

[harley_2018]

@rockysalamander Thank you for the tutorial about the clarity, I will have to think it over. Concerning the diamonds you sent, it's absolutely a no-go for me, if it is under 1ct in weight, despite of the size in mm. I like the last one (1.081), but do not understand why it is THAT pricey for an H VS1. Can you, please, explain? Also, I was under the impression that if I buy a diamond from the Internet, it has to be GIA-certified. This one is not. So, how should I trust the vendor?

@Matthews1127 I do not understand what P-3 and N-S means. Please, explain)) I also don't understand why you sent me the exact same diamonds from JA that I posted here. And what is that "diamdb" site? Can you buy from there? I'll take a note about Blue Nile and DBL, but right now a lot of info for me to handle at the same time

PLEASE, PARDON MY IGNORANCE!! I haven't been in the game as long as you))

I also wanted to tell, that I like the 1.40-1.45 L/W Ratio. As for the setting, Tiffany's emerald is my favourite, it looks absolutely superb. So I want my jeweller to do something in a similar fashion in platinum.

 

[Matthews1127]

@rockysalamander Thank you for the tutorial about the clarity, I will have to think it over. Concerning the diamonds you sent, it's absolutely a no-go for me, if it is under 1ct in weight, despite of the size in mm. I like the last one (1.0, but do not understand why it is THAT pricey for an H VS1. Can you, please, explain? Also, I was under the impression that if I buy a diamond from the Internet, it has to be GIA-certified. This one is not. So, how should I trust the vendor?

@Matthews1127 I do not understand what P-3 and N-S means. Please, explain)) I also don't understand why you sent me the exact same diamonds from JA that I posted here. And what is that "diamdb" site? Can you buy from there? I'll take a note about Blue Nile and DBL, but right now a lot of info for me to handle at the same time

PLEASE, PARDON MY IGNORANCE!! I haven't been in the game as long as you))

I also wanted to tell, that I like the 1.40-1.45 L/W Ratio. As for the setting, Tiffany's emerald is my favourite, it looks absolutely superb. So I want my jeweller to do something in a similar fashion in platinum.

@harley_2018,
My apologies; sometimes JA site does not copy paste correctly for me, via my iPhone. I will send you my links, again. I made certain they were not the same 2....lol!! I do like your choices. I found your second choice, during my search, and based upon JA’s selection within your specs, I can see why it was one of your contenders.
However, it was not one of mine...lol!
I believe the reason the price is escalated on BG’s Signature Diamonds is the fact that they are the Ideal Cut Diamonds; the ONLY superior cut EC’s on the present market. You will pay a premium for those.
AGS is also highly reputable; AGS is VERY strict on Cut grades, and if AGS grades a stone as “Ideal”, it is! For an EC, this report should be engraved in Platinum! You’ll not find an “Ideal” Cut EC anywhere else. The AGS report is proof that BG Signature/Blue Emerald Cut Diamonds meet AGS Cut grade standards for “Ideal Cut”.
I prefer AGS reports over GIA, 9 times out of 10.
Diamdb is a tool to help you determine where your particular diamond falls in the recommended ranges, based upon it’s lxwxd dimensions. It also shows you spread on a finger of multiple finger sizes, and allows you to adjust band width & size to get a visual idea of how that stone will appear on your intended. There are also recommendations of what you should be searching for re: color, and clarity to ensure you are searching within recommended ranges.

 

[Matthews1127]

These are MY recommendations from JA:

https://www.jamesallen.com/mobile/l...t/1.06-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-5021358

https://www.jamesallen.com/mobile/l...t/1.01-carat-f-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4506030

The Diamdb comparisons were based upon their l x w x d dimensions. I believe you will now see 2 different diamonds than the first 2 you posted; their SKU numbers are showing different in my browser, now!
So sorry for the confusion!! lol!

 

[Matthews1127]

Based upon your sweet spot for l x w ratio, only 1 of my JA suggestions fall into that range:

1.06GVVS2:

 

[Matthews1127]

@harley_2018,
To clarify, “P3” means Pavilion Angle 3 (positioned near the bottom of the diamond). JA always shoots EC’s resting on this pavilion for videos. You can also describe this as “E-W” (East-West) or horizontally. This makes determining the performance of an EC more difficult. BG props their EC’s N-S (North-South) or vertically, so you can observe how the steps light up, appropriately.

 

[harley_2018]

These are MY recommendations from JA:

https://www.jamesallen.com/mobile/l...t/1.06-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-5021358

https://www.jamesallen.com/mobile/l...t/1.01-carat-f-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4506030

The Diamdb comparisons were based upon their l x w x d dimensions. I believe you will now see 2 different diamonds than the first 2 you posted; their SKU numbers are showing different in my browser, now!
So sorry for the confusion!! lol!

These are really nice, but honestly the one from BG has caught all my attention now Looks fantastic and the wire price is almost exactly 5000 in euro . Do you like it more than the ones from JA? Also is a pointed culet good or bad? And do I understand correctly that Brian Gavin is a reputable vendor among the folks here?)

P.S. Thanks for the angle tip!

 

[Matthews1127]

These are really nice, but honestly the one from BG has caught all my attention now Looks fantastic and the wire price is almost exactly 5000 in euro . Do you like it more than the ones from JA? Also is a pointed culet good or bad? And do I understand correctly that Brian Gavin is a reputable vendor among the folks here?)

P.S. Thanks for the angle tip!

Yes, yes & yes! A pointed culet means that it’s not flat or open...like a window in the center of the diamond, like vintage diamonds once were. There will be no “kozibe” effect in this diamond. Typical of modern cuts. A pointed culet is fine. I have a pointed culet.

If you can make it with the BG EC, grab it!!! NOW!! lol!!

Are either of these the Tiffany & Co. setting?

 

[Matthews1127]

Kozibe Effect:

Typically found in Vintage Cut & Antique Cut Diamonds.

https://www.google.com/search?q=kozibe+effect&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

 

[harley_2018]

Yes, yes & yes! A pointed culet means that it’s not flat or open...like a window in the center of the diamond, like vintage diamonds once were. There will be no “kozibe” effect in this diamond. Typical of modern cuts. A pointed culet is fine. I have a pointed culet.

If you can make it with the BG EC, grab it!!! NOW!! lol!!

Are either of these the Tiffany & Co. setting?

Yeah, I like the one on the right. See the photo below (and the price ). Btw, do you think I should order the setting directly from Gavin or do it at my jeweller's? My guy has tons of positive reviews and I spoke to him in person, but I still have reservations concerning leaving a 6k dollar diamond in the hands of a strange person. Not sure I will get the same one back and how to protect myself from something adverse...

I would surely grab the BG, but I need to get paid first

 

[Matthews1127]

Yeah, I like the one on the right. See the photo below (and the price ). Btw, do you think I should order the setting directly from Gavin or do it at my jeweller's? My guy has tons of positive reviews and I spoke to him in person, but I still have reservations concerning leaving a 6k dollar diamond in the hands of a strange person. Not sure I will get the same one back and how to protect myself from something adverse...

I would surely grab the BG, but I need to get paid first

Contact BG & find out how you hold that diamond for YOU.
You should also ask if BG would replicate a Tiffany & Co. signature setting; some vendors will, others will not. If not, ask if they have something similar. I’m certain you will be pleased. I only suggest doing it all in one place because it’s more convenient, less hassle, and the entire ring is covered under one vendor.
Reach out to BG & see what, if anything, you can do to ensure that diamond belongs to you, until you can wire the money. Then inquire about the setting.
I am THRILLED you have a beautiful choice!! Fingers crossed it’s ALL YOURS!! Do keep us posted!
Hats off to @rockysalamander for going outside the OP’s vendor selection, and finding a masterpiece!!! LOVE IT!!!

 

[OoohShiny]

Thanks for the tag, @rockysalamander!

Apologies for being no help

I'm at a party today so can only post quickly, but I think things are in good hands

 

[harley_2018]

Contact BG & find out how you hold that diamond for YOU.
You should also ask if BG would replicate a Tiffany & Co. signature setting; some vendors will, others will not. If not, ask if they have something similar. I’m certain you will be pleased. I only suggest doing it all in one place because it’s more convenient, less hassle, and the entire ring is covered under one vendor.
Reach out to BG & see what, if anything, you can do to ensure that diamond belongs to you, until you can wire the money. Then inquire about the setting.
I am THRILLED you have a beautiful choice!! Fingers crossed it’s ALL YOURS!! Do keep us posted!
Hats off to @rockysalamander for going outside the OP’s vendor selection, and finding a masterpiece!!! LOVE IT!!!

Hats off to @rockysalamander for finding a beautiful ring and to you, @Matthews1127, for investing your time and patience into educating me I will definitely keep you posted! Besides I still have a few dumb questions in stock

 

[rockysalamander]

Wonderful News! You really should look at BGD settings. Setting a diamond is a time of risk to the stone and if something happens, you want the diamond vendor to be responsible to replace it. Your local jeweler won't have access to these inhouse stones. Also, most jewelers (at least in the US), don't carry insurance to protect a diamond when it is not one they sourced.

BGD has a setting that is very similar to the Tiffany. The only difference is the shape of the crossbar and the prongs
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...ire/cathedral-solitaire-18k-rose-gold-5550r18 {about as close as you can get and not be tiffany if the shank width matches)
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/melissa-platinum-5366p
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/eternal-grace-platinum-5704p
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...ire/jeff-cooper-chloe-princess-platinum-6296p (differs in the shoulder, but has a horizontal cross bar)

 

[harley_2018]

Hi there! Still no answer from BG, suppose they do not work on weekends.

In the meantime wanted to inquire what is the safest option to secretly measure the ring size? Taking into account that I won't be able to sneak it out of the house to a jeweller @Matthews1127

@rockysalamander Thanks for the compilation, I like the "Melissa" model. But don't you think this one looks more like Tiffany? (the ring itself, not the part, where the diamond is attached)
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...taire/classic-style-knife-edge-platinum-5336p

 

[Matthews1127]

Hi there! Still no answer from BG, suppose they do not work on weekends.

In the meantime wanted to inquire what is the safest option to secretly measure the ring size? Taking into account that I won't be able to sneak it out of the house to a jeweller @Matthews1127

@rockysalamander Thanks for the compilation, I like the "Melissa" model. But don't you think this one looks more like Tiffany? (the ring itself, not the part, where the diamond is attached)
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...taire/classic-style-knife-edge-platinum-5336p

It’s a holiday weekend, in the US. You may not hear from them until Tues.
As for sneaking the ring size, does she wear any rings you can heist for a few hours to have it measured for size?

 

[harley_2018]

It’s a holiday weekend, in the US. You may not hear from them until Tues.
As for sneaking the ring size, does she wear any rings you can heist for a few hours to have it measured for size?

She wears only one ring and takes it off at night, so this is the only window of opportunity Can't heist it from home, fear getting caught!

I need something handy to measure it myself.

 

[Matthews1127]

She wears only one ring and takes it off at night, so this is the only window of opportunity Can't heist it from home, fear getting caught!

I need something handy to measure it myself.

When she puts it away at night, while she’s sleeping, trace the INSIDE of the ring on a piece of paper. The jeweler can probably measure that.

 

[harley_2018]

When she puts it away at night, while she’s sleeping, trace the INSIDE of the ring on a piece of paper. The jeweler can probably measure that.

Already thought of that, but fear I might not be precise Btw, do you think it will be easier to make it bigger or smaller in case I am wrong?

 

[Matthews1127]

Already thought of that, but fear I might not be precise Btw, do you think it will be easier to make it bigger or smaller in case I am wrong?

I’d rather size down, than up. But others may prefer the reverse.