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Need Help Deciding on Princess Cut ASAP: 2 Stones on Hold

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
Long time lurker here! I've learned a lot from all of your combined expertise.

I'm finally getting ready to pull the trigger on an ering upgrade. I know they're not in vogue, but I've always loved princess cuts. I'm looking for something ideal cut and really sparkly that's as close to 7mmx7mm as I can get (so ~2 ct). I'm pretty color sensitive, so preferably G or lighter, and eye clean. I like the bigger facets of the stones with 2 or 3 chevrons and the look/fire of a smallish table (though it's difficult to find anything below 70%). My budget for the stone is $16K (preferably under $15K).

Right now, I have two diamonds on hold for the next day or so at James Allen. I just received an ASET for one, and the other is AGS graded and has a computerized ASET on the certificate. It's hard for me to compare the ASETs since they're in different formats. The setting I like is from James Allen, so it makes sense to get my diamond from them if I can find a good one. I've been following Whiteflash's inventory for months, but they don't have a big selection of princess cut stones this size, and the ASET of the AGS stone looks to be about as good as the Whiteflash stones I've seen. I've also looked into Brian Gavin, but he no longer does princess cuts.

The first diamond (sku 7334773) is one I've had my eye on for months. I love the unique look of the two chevrons. It does have some feathers close to the corners, but the gemologists I spoke with said they're not too concerning. My understanding is that once a diamond is set, the probability of it chipping goes way down, but please feel free to educate me if that's not the case.

The second diamond (sku 7588103) is one the customer rep I was chatting with last night found. It's almost exactly the same measurements as the first, is one color grade higher, and costs about $2K less. I just received the ASET (which, to my untrained eye, looks decent but not amazing).

I'm able to request 2 additional ASETs from JA if I find another diamond I like.

Tell me what you think! Either? Neither? Here's the setting I like in case that helps: https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/three-stone/platinum-tapered-baguette-diamond-engagement-ring-item-1206
Thanks!



https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut/2.02-carat-g-color-si1-clarity-sku-7334773
cert (2).jpeg

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut/2.01-carat-f-color-si1-clarity-sku-7588103
cert (1).jpeg
7588103aset.jpg
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut/2.01-carat-f-color-si1-clarity-sku-7588103
 

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
6,043
Second one looks pretty leaky, although differences between computer-generated ASETs and 'real life' ASETs are noted!
 

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
Second one looks pretty leaky, although differences between computer-generated ASETs and 'real life' ASETs are noted!
That's good to know. I just sent a request for a photo ASET for the first one, though I'm not too hopeful because they said the diamond might be with one of their partners, so they may not be able to access an ASET for it. I'll update here if I get a new image.
 

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
I do not like #2. Leaks. #1 I like.. but the feathers make me very uncomfortable.
Thanks for the feedback! Are feathers still much of a concern once the stone is set and corners are secured with prongs?
 

KKJohnson

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
1,519
I like the first over the 2nd as well

Here is another option that is just slightly larger with better placement that flaws shouldn't compromise the integrity of the stone, not sure what your budget is though

 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
20,964
Just wanted to point out this one out. Do you think you'll ever want to upgrade again? You only have to spend more than your current
stone cost to upgrade versus spending 2X at JA.

This is a Super Ideal A Cut Above stone
 

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
I like the first over the 2nd as well

Here is another option that is just slightly larger with better placement that flaws shouldn't compromise the integrity of the stone, not sure what your budget is though

That is a lovely stone! My budget is $16K, so it's a bit out of range. Thanks so much for the suggestion, though.
 

KKJohnson

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
1,519
Ok, then 2 more suggestions from JA if they can get the ASET images



Also the one @tyty333 suggested is another great pick
 

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
Just wanted to point out this one out. Do you think you'll ever want to upgrade again? You only have to spend more than your current
stone cost to upgrade versus spending 2X at JA.

This is a Super Ideal A Cut Above stone
I'm not sure if I'll upgrade. I don't have any plans to, at least not in the next 10+ years. That's a good point to consider. I felt weird about buying a stone from WF and sending it to JA to set (what if something happened to it during setting?), but is that a rational fear?

I've looked at this stone before, and the light return is excellent, but it looks like it's not eye clean. And--again, maybe not rational--I'm a little worried about seeing warmth since it's an H.

Thanks so much for the suggestion, and I'd love to hear any other thoughts you have.
 

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
Ok, then 2 more suggestions from JA if they can get the ASET images



Also the one @tyty333 suggested is another great pick
I requested the certificate for the AGS graded one (2.02 ct H color): cert (3).jpeg
It looks like it has a little more light leakage than the one I originally posted.

The 2.01 G you linked is one I looked at with the customer service rep last night, and we ruled it out because it had 4 chevrons.

And now I'm second guessing my affinity for 2 chevron stones--I think I might prefer 3 chevrons because I'm worried 2 won't give me the same sparkle. But I'm worried 4 will be too splintery. So now I'm back to the drawing board since the first one I linked has 2 chevrons and the second one is leaky. Dang it! Any additional suggestions would be most welcome.
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
4,936
If you buy a stone from one vendor and a setting from another, the diamond vendor should set the stone. We've seen several folks have JA send a setting to WF.

If you can swing it, I'd recommend WF over JA due to the better performance and upgrade policy. You could go a bit smaller and upgrade in a bit when you gather a bit more funds. This is possible with WF, but not JA.

Have you looked at square radiants? You might like the faceting better.

These do not meet your brief, but they give you some visuals. DBL is a great source for radiants. I think you want crisp facets not crushed ice..
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/radiant-cut/1.72-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-sku-7244968

Here's an educational video.

(They can be harder to find, but just wanted you to see the options}
 

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
If you buy a stone from one vendor and a setting from another, the diamond vendor should set the stone. We've seen several folks have JA send a setting to WF.

If you can swing it, I'd recommend WF over JA due to the better performance and upgrade policy. You could go a bit smaller and upgrade in a bit when you gather a bit more funds. This is possible with WF, but not JA.

Have you looked at square radiants? You might like the faceting better.

These do not meet your brief, but they give you some visuals. DBL is a great source for radiants. I think you want crisp facets not crushed ice..
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/radiant-cut/1.72-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-sku-7244968

Here's an educational video.

(They can be harder to find, but just wanted you to see the options}
rockysalamander, that is so helpful--I didn't realize I could have the diamond vendor set the stone. That definitely makes me feel more comfortable.

I have looked into square radiants before, but they are so inconsistent. I'm scared off by the crushed ice and the fact that there isn't a standardized way to grade the cut.

I've watched a bunch of GOG videos, and they totally sold me on a Solasfera princess--but when I contacted them a few months ago, there just weren't any Solasferas the size I wanted in the pipeline. I'll call them tomorrow to see if that's changed.

I just looked at several WF princesses and noticed that they're all 2 chevron cuts, which surprised me. So maybe getting a 2 chevron cut princess wouldn't be so bad if that's what WF considers best?
 

KKJohnson

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
1,519
I believe this is a 3 chevron, not sure if they can get an ASET

 

KKJohnson

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
1,519
I just looked at several WF princesses and noticed that they're all 2 chevron cuts, which surprised me. So maybe getting a 2 chevron cut princess wouldn't be so bad if that's what WF considers best?

@Texas Leaguer should be able to assist with this question
 

ringo865

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Messages
2,260
Do you like antique -style cushions?
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
4,936
@Texas Leaguer should be able to assist with this question
WF cuts their diamonds with a specific pattern and angles to achieve high performance over weight. I'm not sure you can generalize that therefore all princess cut in that pattern are equally good. Because...princess cuts on the open market are mostly awful in performance with mushy facets, leakage and bad light return.

Think of this like going to a high-end scratch bakery and loving their buttercream frosting. Does is therefore follow that you love all buttercream, even from a can or made with cheap ingredients from the worst bakery? Probably not. I am just offering a caution at generalizing from a rare exception of excellent cutting to the more broad world of diamond cutting.

Folks here have found some real beauties for you in the sea of meh options.
 

RunningwithScissors

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
181
I have a general question about Princess cuts. The ones in the Good Old Gold video that @rockysalamander posted are a different shape than the ones I've seen before (they have their corners cut off). Is there a name for this variation? I really like it but didn't know Princess cuts came this way, I'd only ever seen them square.

Thanks, sorry if this is a stupid question.
 
Last edited:

Texas Leaguer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
2,993
@Texas Leaguer should be able to assist with this question
We offer our A CUT ABOVE Princess in 2 and 3 chevron facet configurations. Both have gone through the ray tracing light performance grading system of the AGS without deduction so there is no deficit in brightness, contrast or fire. The more facets you put on a diamond, the smaller the virtual facets are so the 2 chevron makes tend to have some bolder sparkles, all other things being equal. It is therefore more of a taste factor than a performance factor - more flash vs more twinkle. Larger diamonds can tolerate more chevrons without the virtual facets getting overly small.
 

Texas Leaguer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
2,993
I have a general question about Princess cuts. The ones in the Good Old Gold video are a different shape than the ones I've seen before (they have their corners cut off). Is there a name for this variation? I really like it but didn't know Princess cuts came this way, I'd only ever seen them square.

Thanks, sorry if this is a stupid question.
Not sure which video you are referring to but there is a technique for cutting princess with very small facets placed directly on the points - referred to as "chamfer" corners.
 
Last edited:

ellekay

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
9
I have a general question about Princess cuts. The ones in the Good Old Gold video that @rockysalamander posted are a different shape than the ones I've seen before (they have their corners cut off). Is there a name for this variation? I really like it but didn't know Princess cuts came this way, I'd only ever seen them square.

Thanks, sorry if this is a stupid question.
I think you're referring to the radiant cut stones. It's a different cut than princess cut; they can be either rectangular or square and usually have cropped corners. They generally have more of a "crushed ice" look than princesses.
 
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