Laser tipping prongs for antique emerald ring?

[Pinkmartini87]

Dear all, thank you again for all your help on this new purchase in another thread: https://www.pricescope.com/communit...8k-victorian-emerald-and-diamond-ring.258561/

I’ve decided to...drumroll...keep the ring! Even though the emeralds are really dinged up (scratches, nicks, even a corner chipped off completely) under my loupe, with the naked eye the glow is still overall quite pleasing. And also I don’t have to “baby it” and can really just enjoy wearing the heck out of it!

With that said, even though I’m not afraid to “bang it up” a little, I still hope not to loose any of the emeralds, since I think it may be hard to color and size match one if one is missing. So I asked my jeweler re prong work.

My jeweler states prongs could be laser retipped for around $160. I’ve never had to do any prong work. Does price sound about right to folks? Is it safe to do laser for emeralds?

Here’s a fun glamour shot of the ring as a BIG thank you to everyone who voted on the other thread:

 

[chrono]

Sounds about right. I've had a few antique rings retipped. Not done it on emeralds though, just diamonds and sapphire.

 

[bludiva]

Dear all, thank you again for all your help on this new purchase in another thread: https://www.pricescope.com/communit...8k-victorian-emerald-and-diamond-ring.258561/

I’ve decided to...drumroll...keep the ring! Even though the emeralds are really dinged up (scratches, nicks, even a corner chipped off completely) under my loupe, with the naked eye the glow is still overall quite pleasing. And also I don’t have to “baby it” and can really just enjoy wearing the heck out of it!

With that said, even though I’m not afraid to “bang it up” a little, I still hope not to loose any of the emeralds, since I think it may be hard to color and size match one if one is missing. So I asked my jeweler re prong work.

My jeweler states prongs could be laser retipped for around $160. I’ve never had to do any prong work. Does price sound about right to folks? Is it safe to do laser for emeralds?

Here’s a fun glamour shot of the ring as a BIG thank you to everyone who voted on the other thread:

That sounds reasonable to me, the quotes I’ve received for retapping were 200-300 for a 4 prong plat ring

I think laser is considered much safer than torch bc the heat is concentrated on one spot, the rest of the ring doesn’t get hot if I remember correctly.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@chrono and @bludiva Many thanks to you both, very helpful to know! I think I will proceed!

 

[junebug17]

I'm late but sounds like a good price to me! beautiful ring and I'm looking forward to seeing it after the rehab.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@junebug17 Thank you for coming to the party I’ll keep everyone posted!

 

[voce]

Omg praying an accident doesn't happen to your emeralds this way. I would not recommend as the extreme heat is risky and can cut your emeralds if not sooner with utmost precision. The heat will not be good for your emeralds either. I once had let Daniel M try to cover up a chip he had made on a spinel. He tried laser to add more gold but said it's too hot and caused the spinel to chip more. As emeralds are more included than spinels, I really great for your emeralds.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@voce Thank you for weighing in and I’m sorry to hear re your spinel.

Is there any prong work that is safe for emeralds? Sounds like not even laser is safe now.

Hmm, maybe I should just leave it be then? The prongs are worn but the stones don’t shift at all when I run my fingers over them.

 

[voce]

@voce Thank you for weighing in and I’m sorry to hear re your spinel.

Is there any prong work that is safe for emeralds? Sounds like not even laser is safe now.

Hmm, maybe I should just leave it be then? The prongs are worn but the stones don’t shift at all when I run my fingers over them.

I don't think there is ever absolutely safety, especially with emeralds. I would rather choose to have the emeralds carefully removed from the setting, re-tip the prongs the normal way (18K yellow gold or platinum is more malleable and easier to work with while not damaging the stone), and have the emeralds carefully reset.

I prefer what I'm recommending because it's a slow and careful process, but with laser, a slight misalignment in where the laser is aimed could immediately spell an irreversible disaster for an emerald. I'd rather trust a bench who has done plenty of work with emeralds before, even if it's using old fashioned methods, and acknowledges the risks. Then you won't become an experiment.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@voce Thank you for taking the time to explain everything in detail!

 

[voce]

@Pinkmartini87 I'm only voicing my personal opinion, as it didn't seem like other people had actual experience with using lasers to retip prongs for emeralds. I could be wrong, but I'd rather be cautious and trust benches who have experience doing whatever it is they are doing for emeralds.

 

[MollyMalone]

The bench at Greenwich St. Jewelers in downtown Manhattan used a laser welder to re-tip 1 of the prongs in my Victorian-era emerald and diamond e-ring & re-prong another, @Pinkmartini87 , and all was well.

(There are a number of shielding techniques; unless a rank amateur, the person using the laser welder doesn't just "fire away" and hope for the best. Also, there is a range of laser welders. Since his etsy shop is not his "day job," DanielM is unlikely to have invested in one of the $20,000 - $30,000 models that are more powerful (so less laser time is needed), afford even greater precision -- like the one Greenwich St. Jewelers has.)

Unfortunately, the answer as to how you should proceed is not crystal clear imo. Removing and resetting gem stones is not risk-free either. In the opinion of the jeweler with whom you've conferred, how many prongs should be re-tipped; how many should be re-pronged? I've looked at the photos you've posted of the ring in this thread and in the earlier one, and my eyes apparently are not what they used to be 'cause I'm not sure exactly how many prongs surround each of the 3 emeralds? Depending on the answers to those questions, leaving well enough alone for the time being might very well be a fine option.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@MollyMalone Many thanks for your thoughtful advice and comments. Each emerald had originally about nine wee prongs. Each one now still has a good 3 or more prongs that’s hanging on for dear life.

I’ve given it more thought myself also. I think given the fissures/wear on each emerald, I will likely leave the ring be.

I think trying to remove each stone could stand a real risk of the emeralds simply crumbling due to their wear/tear.

And while it’s good to know laser tipping can be safe, I think since the emeralds aren’t loose now, I may not even take that small risk and leave it be.

I think at some point if the emeralds are starting to come/feel loose, I may just at that point swap out all the stones for new emeralds, and redo the prongs also at that time.

Meanwhile, since this ring didn’t cost me an arm and an leg, I’ll simply enjoy wearing the heck out of this small piece of history and worry later.