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Keep or return? 18k Victorian emerald and diamond ring.

Pinkmartini87

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
743
Bought this ring online and would love some honest PS advice and expertise.

Around $900. Described as Victorian emerald and diamond ring (given COVID, I have no way or verifying 18k gold content or the stones unless I want to risk a trip to my local jeweler in person).

I like the overall look, but wonder if I paid a fair current market price especially given it’s not all original (see below). Would you keep it or return it?

Pros:
1. nice color of the emeralds (they appear real with inclusions, surface fissures, etc). I like the blue tinge.
2. Good condition of shank/shoulders
3. Appropriate antique hallmarks (W for year 1921-1922 per my Birmingham assay guide)

Cons:
1. One side emerald appears replaced—one is a mixed cushion cut with barely any wear, and the other two emeralds are emerald cut emeralds. Color matched well, but still, not entirely original.
2. Some of the diamonds may be replaced also (I see rose cuts, European cuts, and round brilliants)
3. One surface crack to one emerald maybe a bit more than the usual fissures. Center emerald has some fissures on the surface.
4. Odd there are no gold hallmarks given the time period. No resizing mark either I can see on shank to explain marks that maybe disappeared with subsequent sizing.
5. Really worn down prongs

82AB8C82-6CA4-4E2D-9ED0-7AA9FDADF539.jpeg
8A533F77-09FD-4CA6-BAED-4DB21FC76880.jpeg 7DA7D474-7BE7-4EA9-8A2B-80CBCB46B561.jpeg 21E79A0C-193B-4BD8-9180-D913E457D463.jpeg F56AB270-F8B8-4D3A-A72C-94A8ADED59C4.jpeg
0C62BB8D-073A-4CDF-B02B-96B5392A56C5.jpeg
 
Last edited:

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,703
I have zero experience with antique pieces, and I don't have a clear opinion on this. From first glance I thought you got a pretty substantial ring for $900, but if the cut issues are going to bother you, you can return it. I recall some other PS member has it on their signature that a mind clean stone is harder to find than an eye clean stone, and so if you're looking for an antique that's not had stones replaced, it might be kind of tough!
 

Sparklemore

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 24, 2015
Messages
49
I think that’s actually a very good deal for an antique emerald ring, 18k. I’ve seen others go for much more. Keep in minds it’s antique so there will usually be some abrasions, nicks, Prong wear, etc. that’s pretty normal. I’ve seen quite a few antique rings that did not have gold hallmarks for whatever reason, but tested as gold.
You could always have one of the round brilliants replaced with an old cut if it bothers you. Biggest thing is deciding if the possible crack bothers you - that is something I would have a good jeweler look at when you can. All in all, I would have bought it for that price! Really beautiful.
 

YadaYadaYada

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
6,398
I really like this ring, for $900 I don't think it's a bad price at all for the look. Yes it needs prongs so that will cost a bit but a lot of antique pieces do. Not sure about the crack in an emerald, I don't have a lot of experience with them so can't advise about durability.

Do you love it? Or do you look at it and see all the imperfections? I think if you love it despite them and don't mind paying a little for prongs then keep it, it's a pretty ring and love the profile view. Otherwise it's probably best to return and keep looking, don't settle or you will pay later!
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 22, 2014
Messages
4,322
I love it is very beauty but I’d return it if you aren’t prepared to have it ”repaired” before you wear it.
It’s the prongs that worry me. They definitely need attention before you start losing emeralds! It looks as if one diamond (top right) has been replaced, perhaps also top left. It will be expensive to have the whole ring rehabilitated Also that crack in the emerald probably means it been “hit” and one more decent bump and the emerald will shear.
if the price is great and you only intend on wearing it carefully on special occasions, why not, but that’s not an everyday wearing ring in that condition.
 

JPie

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Messages
3,375
I think the price was reasonable given the condition. It’s not unusual for antiques to have flaws like what you’re seeing, and what it comes down to is whether those flaws exceed your comfort level.

Take this ring, for example. It was $2,200, estimated to be from the 1800s, but who knows for sure. The emerald is abraided, as is one of the diamonds on the very end. The prongs need to be retipped, but I love how it looks so much that I would rather wear it occasionally (and very carefully!) than to risk altering how it looks to make the prongs more secure.

20B62CA9-42A1-4F8B-93C7-FCF4151BC277.jpeg
132DDC56-2E6C-43B4-A959-C6CAE2D07CE2.jpeg

It doesn’t sound like you love your ring enough to look past the issues, but only you can say for sure!
 

Pinkmartini87

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
743
Thank you all for coming to the rescue, it is greatly appreciated!

@voce Thanks for your sage words re a mind clean stone vs an eye clean stone!

@Sparklemore Thank you for the sensible advice and encouragement!

@Rad_Fan Thank you for the compliment!
 

Pinkmartini87

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
743
@YadaYadaYada Thanks for talking me through it. Sometimes jewelry is emotional so it’s a gut feeling rather than a checklist.

@Bron357 Good point re prongs and daily wear. Unfortunately I’m someone who just LOVES to wear all my jewelry as much as I can, so I just sent off an email my jeweler re cost of retipping/rebuilding the prongs.

@JPie I saw your gorgeous ring from a while back and it’s actually one of my inspirations for getting an emerald band! I think it’s lovely and unusual and thank you for sharing the price point also, helps to have a ballpark frame of reference. I agree in your case the soft loveliness of the open cutlets and the liquid green silk of the center stone are best appreciated the way they are!
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
6,191
I believe the ring is lovely, however, I have not idea if the price is fair or not, sorry!

DK :))
 

Pinkmartini87

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
743
@dk168 Many thanks for the compliment!

@PreRaphaelite Glad to hear from you! Jewels are quite emotional things, aren’t they?

@EC8 Thanks for the education re surface reaching cracks on emeralds! Maybe I should look into oiling them.

@Daisys and Diamonds Thank you! I do love the gallery on the ring. It’s very crisp!

@GliderPoss Agreed! I’m a little OCD for sure and would prefer uniformity in the cut.
 

Pinkmartini87

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
743
@JPie I love it! Thank you for sharing and generously sharing the price (it’s always so hard I find to gauge a fair market price for antique jewelry since each piece is unique and so many things such as condition, etc, factor into price!)

That vendor has lovely things—I’ve been following her for a while now. Trouble is, she’s quite popular and her things always sell out within hours before I can DM her! I’m so glad you were able to acquire such a gorgeous example!
 

Pinkmartini87

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
743
I do like the emerald color a lot. I find my sapphire ring is a bit temperamental and shifts color a lot depending on light condition, but these emeralds seem to hold their glow and hue well in all light conditions.

Took some just now in the sun:
241B2CDD-3A5A-4318-80AC-8FF1B395BE0A.jpeg 3C604BBF-C4F5-4644-A1B4-F793492539A2.jpeg

And here it is in “poor” dim indoor light:
CB3124FF-B862-425E-8FDB-97C2A6856F84.jpeg
 

Jimmianne

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
6,119
It’s a beautiful ring. I just bought an antique ring with condition issues, but like yours, it is so old that to me it’s part of the history and not a problem. I had mine checked out to be sure the stones were not loose and love it “as is”. It seems that you got a good price, and those stones simply glow. What are your thoughts this morning on keeping it??
 

JPie

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Messages
3,375
I do like the emerald color a lot. I find my sapphire ring is a bit temperamental and shifts color a lot depending on light condition, but these emeralds seem to hold their glow and hue well in all light conditions.

Took some just now in the sun:
241B2CDD-3A5A-4318-80AC-8FF1B395BE0A.jpeg 3C604BBF-C4F5-4644-A1B4-F793492539A2.jpeg

And here it is in “poor” dim indoor light:
CB3124FF-B862-425E-8FDB-97C2A6856F84.jpeg
The color of your emeralds is beautiful! Maybe sleep on it and see what your gut says in the morning?
 

ItsMainelyYou

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2014
Messages
580
You got a good deal, all told. It's worth the price getting those prongs retipped. It may be possible to get them lightly buffed up if it bothers you.
It's a lot of look for the buck.
Just be mindful when you wear it.
 

Slick1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
2,393
@Pinkmartini87 I am no CS expert but I think this ring is beautiful! I love the stones, metal color, the style and especially the gallery. Swoon. I know I am of no help, I just wanted to chime in that I think it looks fab on!!! Good luck deciding. I think she’s a keeper. :bigsmile:
 
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