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Jeweler set my diamond too high?

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
I just got a new engagement ring. I wanted a Tiffany-esque six-prong solitaire and worked with the jeweler over a period of weeks to custom-design the setting to my specifications. We picked the stone first, so the setting was calculated to fit the stone perfectly. I specifically that the stone be set flush with and "nestle in" the prongs like this inspiration photo I provided:

1570627374731.png

Yesterday, the jeweler sent me this photo of the ring. It's a terrible quality photo, but as you can see, there's clearly a lot of gapping between the stone and prongs:

1570627399441.png

I personally think this looks terrible. The jeweler is now saying it will try to re-set the stone flush using the existing setting, but is that even possible? I'm not sure how this happened given that the setting was designed for this specific stone.
 

Mamabean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 31, 2018
Messages
5,083
I just got a new engagement ring. I wanted a Tiffany-esque six-prong solitaire and worked with the jeweler over a period of weeks to custom-design the setting to my specifications. We picked the stone first, so the setting was calculated to fit the stone perfectly. I specifically that the stone be set flush with and "nestle in" the prongs like this inspiration photo I provided:

1570627374731.png

Yesterday, the jeweler sent me this photo of the ring. It's a terrible quality photo, but as you can see, there's clearly a lot of gapping between the stone and prongs:

1570627399441.png

I personally think this looks terrible. The jeweler is now saying it will try to re-set the stone flush using the existing setting, but is that even possible? I'm not sure how this happened given that the setting was designed for this specific stone.
I don’t think it looks terrible. It’s a very pretty ring...He may have to change the head because cutting the prongs may not work. He would have to shave down the lower prongs..It would be easier and make more sense to change out the head. It’s an easy fix so don’t worry. The head looks like it was made for a larger deeper stone. You asked for it to fit your diamond..and it doesn’t..so he should fix this for free. Good luck...Let us know how it turns out.
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
I don’t think it looks terrible. It’s a very pretty ring...He may have to change the head because cutting the prongs may not work. He would have to shave down the lower prongs..It would be easier and make more sense to change out the head. It’s an easy fix so don’t worry. The head looks like it was made for a larger deeper stone. You asked for it to fit your diamond..and it doesn’t..so he should fix this for free. Good luck...Let us know how it turns out.
Thank you! It's good to know you also agree it doesn't fit. Do you know if changing out the head could compromise the integrity of the setting? The ring is PT 950.
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
I don’t think it looks terrible. It’s a very pretty ring...He may have to change the head because cutting the prongs may not work. He would have to shave down the lower prongs..It would be easier and make more sense to change out the head. It’s an easy fix so don’t worry. The head looks like it was made for a larger deeper stone. You asked for it to fit your diamond..and it doesn’t..so he should fix this for free. Good luck...Let us know how it turns out.
Thank you! It's good to know you also agree it doesn't fit. Do you know if changing out the head could compromise the integrity of the setting? I ask only because I'm tempted to ask them to make an entirely new setting. The ring is PT 950.
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
20,964
I think your jeweler missed the "nestled in" direction. Did you give him that pic to go by? He definitely missed the mark because I would say
the stone in the pic he sent you was set medium to medium-high

How big is your stone? The prongs also look a little thin in width compared to most Tiffanys that I'm used to seeing. Then again it might just be
the bad picture and not being able to "see" the edge of the prongs very cleary (and the height throwing the proportions off).

Let us know what you think when you see it in person.
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
I think your jeweler missed the "nestled in" direction. Did you give him that pic to go by? He definitely missed the mark because I would say
the stone in the pic he sent you was set medium to medium-high

How big is your stone? The prongs also look a little thin in width compared to most Tiffanys that I'm used to seeing. Then again it might just be
the bad picture and not being able to "see" the edge of the prongs very cleary (and the height throwing the proportions off).

Let us know what you think when you see it in person.
I gave him that picture and also reviewed a mock-up of the setting he showed me before making it. The mock-up showed that the diamond was supposed to sit flush nestled in to the prongs.

The stone itself is 3.4 carats. I may be really overanalyzing now, but did you also feel like the prongs were slightly "tubular" as opposed to "squarish?" I understand it's tough to see because the picture the jeweler sent isn't very clear. Thanks again for your help:)
 

CSpan

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 7, 2016
Messages
183
I gave him that picture and also reviewed a mock-up of the setting he showed me before making it. The mock-up showed that the diamond was supposed to sit flush nestled in to the prongs.

The stone itself is 3.4 carats. I may be really overanalyzing now, but did you also feel like the prongs were slightly "tubular" as opposed to "squarish?" I understand it's tough to see because the picture the jeweler sent isn't very clear. Thanks again for your help:)
I see exactly what you are saying about the prongs having an external rounded appearance. The Tiffany band has just the slightest angle so it looks squared off.

For a stone that big it has to be perfect. I wonder if the head was pre-cast, something they ordered in the right size maybe? It clearly is not custom for that stone.
 

Bonfire

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
2,864
Missed the mark, by a long shot. Hopefully they will work with you to achieve your desired specifications. Keep us posted.
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
I see exactly what you are saying about the prongs having an external rounded appearance. The Tiffany band has just the slightest angle so it looks squared off.

For a stone that big it has to be perfect. I wonder if the head was pre-cast, something they ordered in the right size maybe? It clearly is not custom for that stone.
My mom actually just said the same thing. They told me they were going to custom-make the head, but now I’m suspicious - like you suggested - that maybe they just ordered it. It clearly isn’t sized to the diamond.
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
Missed the mark, by a long shot. Hopefully they will work with you to achieve your desired specifications. Keep us posted.
As an update, the jeweler claims it is possible to adjust the prongs so the diamond sits lower. The jeweler says it will not be perfectly flush. Thoughts?

I asked for a new head - I can tell they are really resisting me on that, but when I pick it up on Saturday if I’m not satisfied, I’m going to insist. Here’s a photo taken later this afternoon after the diamond was removed from the setting.
 

Attachments

headlight

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
1,495
It’s hard to tell from the horrible photos (this is 2019 after all!), but it seems like the head isn’t even on straight, like it’s lining up off center.
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
It’s hard to tell from the horrible photos (this is 2019 after all!), but it seems like the head isn’t even on straight, like it’s lining up off center.
I was thinking that myself. Since it’s a RB diamond, shouldn’t it be more or less perfectly symmetrical all the way around? And yet it’s not.
 

headlight

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
1,495
I think the “motif” above the “donut” is not in the right place as it is lined up in the Tiffany version shown. I think the diamond is set fine... I think you may be seeing what looks like one prong sitting higher than the others but this may be due to girdle variations, I don’t know. Better imo to have a prong a little higher fo adjust than have the stone sitting crooked in the mounting. I notice on my ring I feel it looks like something is “off” so it’s either an optical illusion, the jeweler F’d up, the head of the mounting wasn’t cast well (not by my jeweler, was made by Cliq, the people that make the rings that open for a better fit for large knuckle problems and ring “spin” - not pretty like your ring’s head but I went with the least costly option), or irregularities with the stone which, if so, I don’t know if that’s inherent with diamonds or just mine is “off”, GIA blessed it as having Excellent symmetry, but we know what that is (isn’t) worth as far as GIA grading is these days. That is the least of the issue right now... first they have to get the mounting appropriately sized and seated properly, but surely you should just question them on that element so you’ve brought it to their attention.
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
4,936
The setting height did not match your spec. They have to fix it. I think that if they simply cut the prongs and re-set the stone with a new seat, you will have the prongs looking squatty. That said, give them a shot but compare the proportions of the inspiration settings to what they deliver in terms of where along the W/swoop the diamond it held.

The setting head is not purely a tiffany-inspiration because the prongs are not the right shape/profile. They are very rounded and the bottom W above the donut looks less distinct. That does not mean it is not a lovely settings once it is properly fixed, but it looks over-finished and smoothed to get to the more classic tiffany shape. But, give them a shot.

If you look below, I've posted a few IRL images for you to compare to. If you look at the prongs, you'll see they have a flattish side inside the swoop and a very distinct curvature separate from the donut.

Did you review a CAD? Because that would really tell you if the setting, overall, is what you approved or not.

IRL photos: https://www.bentley-skinner.co.uk/london/jewellery/47953-a-tiffany-single-stone-solitaire-diamond-ring/


IRL 1570708995020.png

p.s. I might give them one more shot, but if they can't deliver -- ask for a refund. You can have a setting made by HighPerformanceDiamonds or David Klass and it will be perfect.
 

Pimberly

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 4, 2018
Messages
65
Yeah, that’s way too high if you’re trying to replicate the Tiffany setting. Mine sits nestled in. I’m not a fan of high settings. They look weird to me.
 

Bonfire

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
2,864
The setting height did not match your spec. They have to fix it. I think that if they simply cut the prongs and re-set the stone with a new seat, you will have the prongs looking squatty. That said, give them a shot but compare the proportions of the inspiration settings to what they deliver in terms of where along the W/swoop the diamond it held.

The setting head is not purely a tiffany-inspiration because the prongs are not the right shape/profile. They are very rounded and the bottom W above the donut looks less distinct. That does not mean it is not a lovely settings once it is properly fixed, but it looks over-finished and smoothed to get to the more classic tiffany shape. But, give them a shot.

If you look below, I've posted a few IRL images for you to compare to. If you look at the prongs, you'll see they have a flattish side inside the swoop and a very distinct curvature separate from the donut.

Did you review a CAD? Because that would really tell you if the setting, overall, is what you approved or not.

IRL photos: https://www.bentley-skinner.co.uk/london/jewellery/47953-a-tiffany-single-stone-solitaire-diamond-ring/


IRL 1570708995020.png

p.s. I might give them one more shot, but if they can't deliver -- ask for a refund. You can have a setting made by HighPerformanceDiamonds or David Klass and it will be perfect.
Good advice as usual @rockysalamander. The Tiffany head is often imitated never duplicated, as the saying goes. I agree DK or High Performance Diamonds will provide an exceptional ring.
 

headlight

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
1,495
I think the “motif” above the “donut” is not in the right place as it is lined up in the Tiffany version shown. I think the diamond is set fine... I think you may be seeing what looks like one prong sitting higher than the others but this may be due to girdle variations, I don’t know. Better imo to have a prong a little higher fo adjust than have the stone sitting crooked in the mounting. I notice on my ring I feel it looks like something is “off” so it’s either an optical illusion, the jeweler F’d up, the head of the mounting wasn’t cast well (not by my jeweler, was made by Cliq, the people that make the rings that open for a better fit for large knuckle problems and ring “spin” - not pretty like your ring’s head but I went with the least costly option), or irregularities with the stone which, if so, I don’t know if that’s inherent with diamonds or just mine is “off”, GIA blessed it as having Excellent symmetry, but we know what that is (isn’t) worth as far as GIA grading is these days. That is the least of the issue right now... first they have to get the mounting appropriately sized and seated properly, but surely you should just question them on that element so you’ve brought it to their attention.
Forgot to add my images to explain how not sure if optical illusion of jeweler/manufacturer screw up. Sorry for the large images: 715853 715852
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
Thank you so much for your input, everyone - you are all so knowledgeable! You identified the other issues with the setting that were subconsciously bothering me, but I didn't know how to put into words what the other issues were. You're right - it's not that the setting is awful, it's just really nothing like the Tiffany setting I asked for. @headlight , your stone is beautiful.

To ask a follow-up question, is it possible for the prongs to sit perfectly flush against the diamond (probably not with this setting, but if I were to order a new one), or am I being way too nitpicky here?

I'm waiting new photos from the jeweler on their attempts to re-set the diamond using the existing head and will post them once received. I'm trying to keep an open mind and - like @rockysalamander said - at least give them a shot to fix it.
 

Rose-gold-or-bust

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
270
How sure are you that it is custom other than what the jeweler says? Did they show you CADs? It is such a common setting (6 prong) solitaire that I am surprised a local jeweler would do much more then order a stock setting in the right size for the stone.
 

the_mother_thing

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
5,657
Maybe you need to show him/her pictures to communicate exactly what you want/don’t want with notes/mark-ups noting the specific things you want and don’t want.

When you say you say you want the prongs to sit flush with the diamond, do you mean this part (see pics) or the prong tips on top?
4F10A9A1-10BB-4BD4-B9CD-8BB3831CCE65.jpeg
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
4,936
There is only so much flushness that can be achieve with this setting, but it is MUCH more than they did.

Think of your diamond's profile like a capital "V". Sharp angles. The prongs of the Tiffany setting are more like a cursive capitol "W" . So, you can't get a curvy W and pointy V to fit perfectly in the curvy W. But, it can be much better. Keep in mind that renderings are not going to show things as much as IRL photos when it comes to this due to the loss and simplification of the shadows.

1570879020286.png

So, keep pushing for what you want, but think about the curvature of the setting. So, you can get the setting to snuggle with the girle and then it will need to leave the stone due to the very sharp point of the V. @the_mother_thing provided an excellent drawing to show the area. You might also provide a photo like this to show it IRL.

1570879293573.png

From:https://www.bentley-skinner.co.uk/london/jewellery/47953-a-tiffany-single-stone-solitaire-diamond-ring/

1570879455803.png

FROM: https://www.worldsbest.com/jewelry/1423608369/handmade-platinum-gia-218ct-tiffany-co-signed-diamond-solitaire-ring
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
Hi everyone, apologies for the belated response. I went in on Saturday to look at the ring. It looks much better!!! You are right - because of the angle of the prongs compared to the pavilion angle, it doesn't sit perfectly flush, but it does sit MUCH more flush that it originally did. Here are some photos:

1571248636208.png 1571248656336.png
(Taken in natural lighting - the fluroescence really shows!)

1571248689317.png
(Taken indoors in my beige office - this diamond is a J and I can see the warmth here.)

All in all, I am happy with it. These photos are much closer to the CAD I reviewed than the way the ring was originally set. Thank you so much for all of your help - this was as much a learning experience for me as it was trying to get what I originally asked for.
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
4,936
At the risk of stressing you out, does the head look perfectly vertical when you look at it like photo #1? In the photo, the head looks tilted to the right so that the table of the diamond is not 90 degrees from the red line. it may be an optical effect of the photo...

1571264382563.png
 

LauraJandLudlow

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Messages
21
At the risk of stressing you out, does the head look perfectly vertical when you look at it like photo #1? In the photo, the head looks tilted to the right so that the table of the diamond is not 90 degrees from the red line. it may be an optical effect of the photo...

1571264382563.png
That is a good question. I think it looks straight, but will post a few more photos. If you don't mind taking another look, let me know if you see something I might be missing.
 
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