shape
carat
color
clarity

Is this the best stone for my budget?

What would you like to know if we would wait for?

I'm not sure I understand. If you are waiting for an email from them, just pick up the phone and call. That's my best advice.

The WF diamond is lovely.
 
Just asking is the link a great stone for the price, or shall I hold off to hear from BG as well in case I can get a blue with better specs or price. I am in New Zealand so it's easier to communicate by email at this point.
 
Iloveblingnz|1399418527|3667517 said:
Just asking is the link a great stone for the price, or shall I hold off to hear from BG as well in case I can get a blue with better specs or price. I am in New Zealand so it's easier to communicate by email at this point.

I posted in your other thread. I think you'll be very hard pressed to get to 1.8 for your budget.

In that thought, get a Brian Gavin Blue. I love fluorescence, but all personal preference. Probably only get 1.5-1.6 for your budget though.
 
Ok. But BG's sales people might be on vacation so use their chat function on their website if you don't hear anything within 24 hours.

The stone is good and so is the price at WF. Whether you wait for a Blue Line stone is up to you. I'd want a Blue LIne stone personally. But I'd only wait a reasonable time.

When are you planning on proposing?
 
Thanks for the advice Gypsy. I am acutally a she and this is an upgrade for my 10 year wedding anniversary that was back in March :) I of course want something now, but reality is there is no real rush and am sure there will always be a suitable stone available. The setting and uternity look I really want is like js_diamond, it is a pave band with 10 pointer uternity. I have allowed myself 25k NZD for the 2 items, we need to take into account exchange rate (approx. 0.86USD = 1.0NZD and a 10 - 16% GST/duty tax depending on whether I collect it from Australia (10) or NZ (16). I would prefer to do the transaction in one hit, as hopefully I have better buying power with a jeweller.

I am really keen to get something sorted before the end of June (I am overseas next week for 2 weeks in the Pacific with limited broadband so chances are I will not get this sorted before I leave Tuesday). I will pull the trigger immediately though if someone can find me a great buy!! My Pricescope name should be clueless!!
 
Iloveblingnz|1399458113|3667750 said:
 
The entire purpose of faceting a diamond is to reflect light.
How well or how poorly a diamond does this determines how beautiful it is.
How well a diamond performs is determined by the angles and cutting. This is why we say cut is king.
No other factor: not color, not clarity has as much of an impact on the appearance of a diamond as its cut. An ideal H will out white a poorly cut F. And GIA Ex is not enough. And do not consider anything except GIA Ex or AGS 0 or 1 stones. EGL is a bad value and should not even be considered.
So how to we ensure that we have the right angles and cutting to get the light performance we want?
https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-cut
Well one method is to start with a GIA Ex get the angles and table and depth from the certificate (you can just get the lab report number and look up the angles on the GIA website with report check), and then apply the HCA to it. YOU DO NOT USE HCA for AGS0 stones.
https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/holloway-cut-advisor
The HCA is a rejection tool. Not a selection tool. It uses 4 data points to make a rudimentary call on how the diamond may perform.
If the diamond passes then you know that you are in the right zone in terms of angles for light performance. 2 and under is a pass. Under 2.5-2.1 is a maybe. 2.6 and over is a no. No score under 2 is better than any other.
Is that enough? Not really.
So what you need is a way to check actual light performance of your actual stone.
That's what an idealscope image does. https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/firescope-idealscope
It shows you how and wear your diamond is reflecting light, how well it is going at it, and where you are losing light return. That is why you won't see us recommending Blue Nile, as they do not provide idealscope images for their diamonds. Brian Gavin, White Flash, High Performance Diamonds, James Allen, Good Old Gold and Engagement Rings Direct.

The Idealscope is the 'selection tool'. Not the HCA.
So yes, with a GIA stone you need the idealscope images. Or you can buy an idealscope yourself and take it in to the jeweler you are working with to check the stones yourself. Or if you have a good return policy (full refund minimum 7 days) then you can buy the idealscope, buy the stone, and do it at home.


Now if you want to skip all that... stick to AGS0 stones and then all you have to do is pick color and clarity and you know you have a great performing diamond. Because AGS has already done the checking for you. That's why they trade at a premium.
 
Personally, I'd definitely go with the WF stone you found or this WF ACA
http://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-3075973.htm

But if you want to look at other options, here are a couple to consider. They don't score as well on the HCA but they very well may be okay. These two are only marginally bigger, and probably not as nice as the two WF diamonds. You need to get an idealscope on them. http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/?CaratFrom=0.50&CaratTo=10.00&Color=I,H,G,F,E,D&Clarity=SI1,VS2,VS1,VVS2&PriceFrom=200&PriceTo=15500&Sort=Carat%20desc%20,DefaultOrder&TabSelected=3&DiamondID=280767,294519 They're almost certainly not as well cut as the WF diamonds.
 
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