Input on bezel setting work?

[klokkeblomst]

I got to see my set diamond today, before it goes off for final appraisal!!!

I love everything about the setting, except I don't think I've ever seen a bezel set quite like this. My OEC is wonky, ranging from 7.19 mm to 7.38 mm in diameter. I had a choice to order the setting for a 7.2mm diamond or a 7.4mm diamond. The jeweler suggested we order the 7.4, because he said it's easier to set a stone in a bezel that is too loose than one that is too tight.

I was very worried that the bezel would end up uneven, but it turned out as a perfect circle, so that's good. However, the diamond is set lower into the bezel than I anticipated. I've never seen a bezel that looks like this, I'd describe it as curving up from the girdle, as if the diamond is sitting in a bowl. I asked if it could be set higher, and the jeweler said it took everything his bench person could do to set it as high as it is, and that it was a very difficult job.

I'm looking for some input:

1. Am I being too picky? It's probably not noticeable to anyone but me (or PS members) , and possibly will protect the stone better,as the girdle is quite delicate. Should I just live with it for a few weeks and see how I feel?

2. Could the walls be shaved down to neutralize the drop down to the girdle?

3. Is there a way to build up a bezel wall so that a wonky diamond sits more flush in a setting made to the widest diameter measurement?

I haven't paid anything more than a $500 deposit at this point, and could potentially just walk away from the project , but I am absolutely in love with both the stone and the setting itself. I'd love some advice on how to fix and/or live with this setting!

 

[UrsTx]

I can't provide any input on how to fix it but I have a bezel, and I think my stone sits higher up than yours. I don't recall exactly but I think my stone was 8.06 x 8.15 so it's a little closer to a 1:1 ratio than yours is. Pics:

 

[klokkeblomst]

Yes, Urstx- yours is gorgeous, and is set exactly as I hoped mine would be set!

I'm wondering if this bench, or maybe another,better bench, can just shave down the huge chunky circle of gold at the "top" of the bowl that my bezel walls have become, reburnish the edges and we can all it good. I really want my bezel to look like yours!

 

[UrsTx]

The thread below has nothing to do with your topic but look at the second CAD pic. Maybe it'll help your jeweler see what you want.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/do-your-bezel-set-e-rings-sparkle-enough.174439/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/do-your-bezel-set-e-rings-sparkle-enough.174439/[/URL]

 

[klokkeblomst]

The more I look at the pictures, the more the bezel looks like the top of a soda can to me. I looked at the cads from the manufacturer, and it does appear this setting has a chunky,high bezel as part of the mounting, but in other pictures where I've seen this setting, that chunkiness has been burnished or flattened over the girdle more than mine during the setting process.

I think I will ask the jeweler if his guy can sand down the part of the bezel that looks like a soda can, so that it looks more fluid, and less like a tall, chunky ring of gold around the diamond.

The jeweler was adamant that the diamond cannot be set higher in the setting.

I would love it if anyone, particularly trade people, could comment on whether I should have the bezel sanded down, or take it somewhere else/have something else done?

 

[klokkeblomst]

For reference: the cad and example of the same setting in a photo.

 

[msop04]

The more I look at the pictures, the more the bezel looks like the top of a soda can to me. I looked at the cads from the manufacturer, and it does appear this setting has a chunky,high bezel as part of the mounting, but in other pictures where I've seen this setting, that chunkiness has been burnished or flattened over the girdle more than mine during the setting process.

I think I will ask the jeweler if his guy can sand down the part of the bezel that looks like a soda can, so that it looks more fluid, and less like a tall, chunky ring of gold around the diamond.

The jeweler was adamant that the diamond cannot be set higher in the setting.

I would love it if anyone, particularly trade people, could comment on whether I should have the bezel sanded down, or take it somewhere else/have something else done?

Hi klokk

First of all, I love your ring... it looks like the bezel is just too curved, causing it to sit higher than you'd like. I wonder if your bench could just "flatten it out" on the top where it's curved?? It looks great, just needs a little bit of tweaking!

 

[klokkeblomst]

Thanks Msop04!

I sent an email with example pictures of bezel halos from PS and asked if the bezel could be sanded down.

I'm open to any other input or advice anyone has, I'm trying to adjust my expectations to be realistic.

 

[TC1987]

Your setting has a "half round" as a bezel. Or "high dome." The YG ring from the other thread is more of a chamfer (straight line at an angle.) I don't know what the jeweler could do to change that. I think your ring looks nice, as-is.

 

[klokkeblomst]

You're absolutely right, the bezel should be half round. I tried to draw what I am seeing so that it'd clearer than what you can see in the pictures.

1. Represents what I expected, and what I see in the cads you posted.


2. Represents what I got, a bezel that looks like the rim on a can. It curves up very high, and then creates a shallow bowl that holds the stone.

3. Represents what I'm hoping to get. I'm stuck with the bowl beacause the diamond can't be set higher, but I'm hoping to soften the "rim".

 

[thecat]

UrsTx's setting is custom made for her stone so her diamond will be set at an ideal height since the bench man built the bezel around her diamond. I am not sure about bezel setting but for prong setting, if it's too small, diamond will be set high. If it's too large, diamond will drop into setting and can't use a setting that is too large. I'm actually think that your jeweler did a pretty good job considering the bezel is much larger than your stone. I think using a halo with prong instead of bezel will better allow the bench to set your diamond higher.

 

[klokkeblomst]

Should the jeweler have ordered the smaller diameter setting, then? He's the one who said the bezel should start out "like a loose pair of pants"...

 

[klokkeblomst]

Sorry to bump my own thread, but this is really bothering me. The more I look at the ring, the more out of proportion it looks. I think the setting's diameter is just too big for the stone, and I'm worried there is no way to fix it so that it meets my expectations.

Even though the jeweler said it was non-refundable, do you think there is room for negotiation if the wrong size setting was ordered? I can't possibly be responsible for that, can I?

I appreciate the kind words of those who said they like it!

Does anyone else think this just looks weird and out of proportion to the stone, though? I don't know if I can live with it, and it's too expensive just to "live with" anyway...

 

[tyty333]

I think your ring looks beautiful too! But, I understand
If it bothers you. Did you hear back from the jeweler?
I can't imagine that it can't be made to look a little
Softer.

 

[thecat]

The positive about your bezel is that your diamond is more protected when being knocked since it is set low. I don't think ordering he smaller size can accommodate your stone. Hence he ordered the larger one. A smaller size is only feasible if they are prong setting, I think. As your diamond is irregular in roundness, the best would be to build a bezel around your diamond. Option 2 would be to use a smaller diameter prong setting and set it higher. In your case where there's no custom but still being bezel set, I actually think your jeweler did a pretty good job. I like your ring for its security.

I'm no jeweler but my understanding so far is that smaller size prong setting can open up longer to grip the girdle part. But smaller bezel setting won't work since the largest diameter part of diamond needs to rest on the bezel. If bezel is too small, the diamond can't go into the bezel. Cos you can't extend the bezel higher. Which was why I think your jeweler ordered the larger one. On top of that, I think the bench most probably had to add some metal to the 7.1 mm part of diamond to allow bezel to hold it in. I would think that setting your diamond wasn't as simple as just popping it in. Hence I thought that he did a good job. But I might be totally wrong and would love to learn more if so.

 

[klokkeblomst]

Thanks tyty and thecat!

I totally get that technically, this setting was executed as best (or maybe better!) than could be expected. I realize my title could be read as if I am questioning the benchwork, but I'm not.

Aesthetically, it just doesn't match up to my expectations. I have not seen any bezel-set halos where the diamond appears to sit below the plane of the halo, with a high rim in between the bezel and the halo.

If this was the best that I could ever hope to receive, I wish my expectations would have been properly set by the jeweler - I would have gone custom or ordered a prong setting instead. I want to give the vendor (local estate jeweler - not a PS person) a chance to make it right, but I'm having a hard time seeing how.

I just feel really bummed that it didn't turn out the way I envisioned.

 

[Dreamer_D]

One way to see if your expectations are correct is to take it to a few other jewelers who have IN HOUSE benches and ask them for their opinion.

I suspect this is an issue of trying to set a wonky peg in a round hole a Bezel mounting has a lip just below the top edge on which the diamond girdle rests. The bezel metal is then smoother down over the top edge holding the stone in place. The depth from the top of the bezel to the lip will be deeper in a setting designed for a 7.4mm diamond than for a 7.2mm diamond because the former will be a deeper diamond than the latter (all else being equal). Also, the depth is based on an MRB crown height. If your diamond is shallower from girdle to crown than a typical 7.4mm MRB, then it will sit lower in the setting. The only wait to raise it up would be to cut out the inner lip that came with the mount and make a new lip higher. A really good bench can do that, but it may be beyond the skill of your present bench.

It may also be that this bench left too much metal in the bezel, creating the "mound" of metal. Again, a good bench might be able to smooth that down.

Those are my non-expert thoughts. A custom mount and /or a better bench might be the only solution.

 

[klokkeblomst]

Thanks DreamerD. It's helpful to know that a bench could potentially fix this, but I still think I'd be left with an awfully wide bezel, which I'm not sure if it's very proportional to the stone.

If it can't be made right, is it reasonable to offer to pay for cost and labor if I order a new setting?

 

[Dreamer_D]

Are you able to post a clearer photo of your ring? Try standing by a large window with natural light coming through, and try cropping the image so ONLY the diamond is shown. I'd like to see how low it is set.

I don't know for sure it could be fixed, but I saw the structure of my own bezel when my stone was unset and I know most anything can be done by a good bench... ergo...

But, what the right solution is for YOU depends how far from "normal" your ring looks presently. I think a case can be made for a full refund.. period... if the setting is really poorly done and/or the mount is clearly too large for the stone.

 

[klokkeblomst]

I don't have the ring yet - I'm waiting to hear back if the vendor has any ideas on how to fix it. I haven't even paid for it yet - so I can't take more pictures unfortunately.

Hopefully this will help. The second picture shows the outer edge of the bezel in orange, and the point where the diamond meets the bezel in pink. See how the diamond sits in a "bowl"? I cannot find a single picture of another bezel setting that looks like this, anywhere.

 

[distracts]

I'm not sure what the jeweler could have done better to make sure your expectations were in line with the final product. Like... did you show specific pictures of exactly how you wanted the bezel, centerstone, and halo to all look in relation to one another? If not, I'm not sure how he could have been expected to know? While I see what your issue is, it looks like a normal variation I see in bezels. Especially since your stone is a wonky shape, they likely have the bezel covering the stone to make it look 7.2ish all around rather than 7.2-7.4ish, so that would necessarily make it thicker (and most people with near-round stones want this). Did you see examples of this jeweler's bezel work before committing?

I feel like saying you've never seen bezel settings like that is hyperbolic or you haven't looked really hard. This WF setting is similar - it's a thinner lip, but the lip of metal is high and the stone sits lower than it:
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/diamond-settings/halo-bezel-diamond-engagement-ring-197.htm

And these:
http://www.jewelsbygrace.com/gallery/earrings/1-43tcw-fancy-orangey-brown-cushion-cut-halo-earrings.html#.U6oP35SwJG4
http://www.jewelsbygrace.com/gallery/earrings/99tcw-pave-button-diamond-stud-earrings.html#.U6oP4JSwJG4
http://engagementringsforwomens.com/aquamarine-engagement-ring-diamond-side-stones-14k-gold-ring-name-aquamarine-bezel-set-carved-halo-engagement-ring/
http://www.shireeodiz.com/diamond-solitaire-engagement-gold-rings-micro-pave-bezel-star-1.html

All found from like a minute on google images.

Like, I don't think there's a flaw in the workmanship or anything. It's partially an aesthetic difference and probably partially a difference in skill level, but not to the point of being bad, just not as refined as PSers like. I think it can probably be ameliorated by milgraining the bezel. Or possibly just by getting a matte finish on it. Personally I prefer all prongs and bezels to look a little worn-in instead of super shiny, and I defile them all with a nail block upon receipt. To me the supershine just makes them stand out in a bad way instead of fade in.

I definitely think a refund is way, way overkill unless your bezel preferences were clearly communicated and in the work order.

 

[klokkeblomst]

To my eyes, none of those settings look like mine. None of them have a swoopy downward curve *inside* of the bezel. The diamond looks like it's in a bowl with a tall curved rim, nothing like the examples you posted.

I expected the ring to look like the cad pictures I ordered from. I don't think that is unreasonable, but I'm not accustomed to purchasing diamond settings on the regular, which is why I'm asking.

I do not expect a full refund. But I think negotiating price on this setting if I order a new one could be a fair solution.

I agree with you that the shiny-ness is part of the problem. I also think sanding the "rim" down could help. I just haven't heard anything back yet and I'm bummed and anxious.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Those photos do help. I can see what you are saying and also what distracts is saying. I think the setting job looks pretty well done. It was a challenge to even out the shape I am sure but the jeweller did a very nice job and the bezel is even and looks nicely finished. It looks like it was accomplished by having the inner rim of he bezel slope inwards rather than straight down at 90 degrees. I am not sure why the stone looks so low but I suspect it has to do with the stone being shallower than the intended size for the mount perhaps...

So, you don't like how it looks especially and you did not expect it to look different from the CAD images. On he other hand, I don't think the jeweller would have known a priori how you would feel about it.be Another person receiving that ring might have been perfectly happy with it. So I don't think I see this as a case of either being wholly at fault. Clear communication will be important moving forward. All of that said, here on PS whenever someone posts worrying about a ring they have not seen and touched in person, we usually say "wait until you see it in person to pass judgement!" Things Always look different in person than in super high resolution images. So consider that before pulling the rug out. But try talking to the vendor on the phone before you do anything. How did they respond when you first brought up the issue?

 

[patricias]

When setting a faceted stone into a bezel, there is very little wiggle room for size and shape variations. I think your jeweler did a fine job of setting an asymmetrical stone into a round setting. If you want it reset, the jeweler will have to make a new setting. I don't think you've been sold a bill of goods. If you'd like the bezel to be less prominent, ask your jeweler to add millgrain to the bezel edge.