How narrow can a tapered shank get?

[CalliopeCladdagh]

Designing a solitaire and the original Cad had a 2mm shank that tapered in towards the diamond and got very thin up by the shoulders and donut. I don't know how thin it was exactly but I was uncomfortable with it.

I have asked the shank to be increased to 2.25mm at the widest point. How narrow can I safely ask the taper to get to whilst ensuring the ring is durable? I was thinking maybe 1.6mm because I still want the taper to be obvious, does that sound reasonable?

 

[tyty333]

Is it a cathedral or does the shank increase in height by the stone? Some rings that go thinner by the stone increase the depth of the
metal and get the "strength" that way. Do you have a CAD you can post now so we can see what's going on? What metal is the
setting being made of?

Edit...here is a setting that shows what I'm talking about

14K White Gold Six Prong Wire Basket Engagement Ring

This lovely six prong solitaire engagement ring is sure to enhance the beauty of your chosen round diamond or gemstone. Made with a refined wire basket and a slightly pinched shank, it is destined to last for an eternity.

www.jamesallen.com

 

[breanne]

Designing a solitaire and the original Cad had a 2mm shank that tapered in towards the diamond and got very thin up by the shoulders and donut. I don't know how thin it was exactly but I was uncomfortable with it.

I have asked the shank to be increased to 2.25mm at the widest point. How narrow can I safely ask the taper to get to whilst ensuring the ring is durable? I was thinking maybe 1.6mm because I still want the taper to be obvious, does that sound reasonable?

Think mine will taper to 1.6 - take a look at CvB's Jovyn setting to give you an idea.

**edit, added photos below from her etsy, mine isn't made yet, but this is it.

The Cvb ID Jovyn Classic Six Prong Solitaire Setting - Etsy Canada

This Solitaire Rings item by CVBinspiredDesign has 335 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from United States. Listed on 21 Apr, 2023

www.etsy.com

 

[Rfisher]

I have a ring with a nice thin taper, but the way it’s made I don’t worry about it. Plus the stone is .70 not a multi carater honker

The south end of the shank is a tiny bit above 2.0mm
It gradually tapers to 1.25 or so. That’s the measurement at the base. It’s a knife edge at the top to go even thinner.
As already said above - the height of the shank increases as it gets thinner to help the strength of the thin width.

Edited to add - the shank i just described is exactly shown in the post right above

 

[CalliopeCladdagh]

@tyty333 it's like a mini cathedral? Made of platinum. I considered closing the gaps in the shoulders to have a solid shank but I really like the design with the gaps. The jeweller says the gaps won't affect the durability?

Here's the latest Cad. It doesn't state how thin the taper gets. The previous Cad had a 2mm shank at widest. I got the plastic model made from that version and the taper was too thin.

 

[breanne]

They can tell you the measurement at the smallest point, they'd have to know it in order to create the ring. Also, I think he's right about it not affecting durability if you close those gaps or keep them open. The narrowest point is beyond where the shank sits on your finger, are you worried that the basket itself could easily break off? I don't think that would be the case, the shoulders are acting as 'guy wires' in a sense. if they were lower and the basket was higher, I think then you'd risk it being structurally compromised. I'm not a jeweler by any means, but that is what I interpret fwiw.

 

[Wink]

I have repaired far too many rings that were tapered below 2mm. I know my opinion is unpopular with many, but the devastation when a diamond is lost due to a too thin shank is worth my being irritating about it.

 

[Rfisher]

Here's the latest Cad. It doesn't state how thin the taper gets.

Each box in the background grid = mm
So by my eye- the thinnest part of your taper is close to 1.25

I don’t know if casting in one piece vs cast in pieces to be hand assembled would effect the durability. Same as joining all same metal vs joining different metals.

Hardest thing about ‘is it durable enough?’ is the chance of a casting or assembly issue no one can foresee, and the difference in what one defines their own ‘daily careful wear’ vs someone else’s definition.

Carrying bags, a dog leash and a steering wheel positioned in the right (actually wrong!) place was an eye opener for me in what didn’t constitute daily careful wear for me.

 

[kenny]

Designing a solitaire and the original Cad had a 2mm shank that tapered in towards the diamond and got very thin up by the shoulders and donut. I don't know how thin it was exactly but I was uncomfortable with it.

I have asked the shank to be increased to 2.25mm at the widest point. How narrow can I safely ask the taper to get to whilst ensuring the ring is durable? I was thinking maybe 1.6mm because I still want the taper to be obvious, does that sound reasonable?

There is no single ring width above which is durable, and below with is not durable.
Durability and safety are gradual things.
Thicker is more durable.
Thinner is less durable.
All rings are weakest at their thinnest point.
It's a physics thing.

People vary.
So, how rough they are with their hands and rings will vary too.
A ring that's thick enough to be safe for person A could be too thin to be safe for person B.

Diamonds are very expensive.
I don't want to lose one.
That's why I'd err on the side of caution and ignore the desire to make a ring look as delicate as possible.
If alloy and quality of manufacture is equal, a ring that looks more delicate IS more delicate.

I feel sorry for vendors who are under pressure to make rings thinner and thinner, but when it bends or loses a diamond the customer blames the vendor, not themself.
They must think, "Sheesh ladies, damed if you do, damed if you don't."

 

[jmhgv2]

I have repaired far too many rings that were tapered below 2mm. I know my opinion is unpopular with many, but the devastation when a diamond is lost due to a too thin shank is worth my being irritating about it.

That is concerning. Does the material of the ring matter at all. In other words, would 14 ct gold be more secure than platinum or vice versa?

 

[Wink]

I feel sorry for vendors who are under pressure to make rings thinner and thinner, but when it bends or loses a diamond the customer blames the vendor, not themself.
They must think, "Sheesh ladies, damed if you do, damed if you don't."

I have lost jobs in the past for declining to make a ring as "delicate" as the client desired. I have seen the anguish from lost diamonds and damaged rings when other vendors have acquiesced to the request to create delicate pieces designed to be worn only for a quick photo shoot and then returned to the box for every day wear.

That is concerning. Does the material of the ring matter at all. In other words, would 14 ct gold be more secure than platinum or vice versa?

Too thin is too thin. Some metals may hold up better than others, but when they are too thin, it doesn't really matter.

Hardest thing about ‘is it durable enough?’ is the chance of a casting or assembly issue no one can foresee, and the difference in what one defines their own ‘daily careful wear’ vs someone else’s definition.

This. If someone does all of your heavy lifting, you may get away with a ring that a more active person would not. If you have a son or daughter competing in sports and you attend their games wearing rings on both hands, you may be shocked at how much damage you can do by excitedly clapping your hands together when a great play is made.

 

[CalliopeCladdagh]

Thank you all for your advice.
I've erred on the side of caution and asked for the shank to go from 2.25 to 1.75mm approx.
I'm excited to see the new cad, hoping it's enough to appreciate the taper without being too thin.