How is diamond bezel-sed and how much surface area does it cover

[zhuzhu]

Can some of you please explain to me how bezel set is done? How much of the girdle area does the bezel typically cover up, for a 1ct diamond? 1 mm our of 6.5mm total (0.5 mm each side) or more?

Finally, can bezel setting be reused as easily as prong-style settings should we chose to remove the stone?

Thank you!

 

[Circe]

Hey, Zhu! I just saw Wink respond to a similar post, and his estimate was that a bezel would cover approximately 5% of the surface area ... but that it would differ from jeweler to jeweler.

It does, really: a skillful jeweler will cover less, and give you the illusion of a *much* larger stone. A less skillful jeweler? Well ... it might still make the stone look bigger, but clunky bezels are really unattractive, IMO.

And, of course, the biggest downside ... bezels don''t tend to be reusable. To get the stone out, you''ll either need to saw the bezel open, or to saw it across the top to pop the stone out. You could, then, conceivably, solder a new bezel on or just file in on the old bezel to set a new stone, but if you were planning for this I would both, a) have a really skilled bench-person, and b) have the original bezel set a little higher then necessary.

Why, what''s in the works?

You''ve been coming around with the loveliest pieces lately ....

 

[Jim Summa]

Hi zhuzhu,
Bezel setting is done by hammering and/or burnishing a stone in the setting or bezel.
If you go with platinum you would be able to get the thinnest, most delicate look, which I gather is what you are after.
Sometimes a customer stops in with a stone that is trying to change a look... Sometimes a bezel with a wide rim, that isn''t sloppy and covering up the stone is something they go with over prongs, maybe because it can give the illusion of a larger stone.
Circe is right about cutting the stone out. Unless its an important piece of jewelry I don''t ever want to risk trying to coax a stone out of a bezel.

 

[zhuzhu]

Thank you Circe and Jim!

It is very helpful of you two to answer my questions! I would like to verify one point though, to take a stone out of bezel, is the risk greater for the setting (as in repairing it to original) or to the stone (as to breaking it)?

 

[Jim Summa]

It depends on what the item is.
If you have a old setting that you don''t care about you just cut it out at very very slight risk.

If what you really want to do is save both the ring and the bezel what I look for is if the stone is loose in the setting, it gives you something to gauge. If a stone is tight no matter what you do in trying to loosen it if you pry on it at all, in any way, you have a risk of it breaking.

Metal remembers, that is in opening a bezel you are stretch the metal at best, or at worst crack the metal along a seam. If the stone is not important than breaking it out is the best for the bezel.

Think of stone setting as "fitting". Even diamonds can be a little different and can be a challenge to fit into an existing bezel that was made for a different stone.


One thing I can add is that with the invention of the jewelry laser everything has changed in the way you can approach a job. I have not purchased one yet, and have not seen much on Pricescope from jewelers that are using "hot light" to be able to do work that would be impossible with a torch, because of the heat.
Hope this helps

 

[Demon]

Date: 5/25/2010 10:52:47 AM
Author: Jim Summa
It depends on what the item is.
If you have a old setting that you don''t care about you just cut it out at very very slight risk.

If what you really want to do is save both the ring and the bezel what I look for is if the stone is loose in the setting, it gives you something to gauge. If a stone is tight no matter what you do in trying to loosen it if you pry on it at all, in any way, you have a risk of it breaking.

Metal remembers, that is in opening a bezel you are stretch the metal at best, or at worst crack the metal along a seam. If the stone is not important than breaking it out is the best for the bezel.

Think of stone setting as ''fitting''. Even diamonds can be a little different and can be a challenge to fit into an existing bezel that was made for a different stone.


One thing I can add is that with the invention of the jewelry laser everything has changed in the way you can approach a job. I have not purchased one yet, and have not seen much on Pricescope from jewelers that are using ''hot light'' to be able to do work that would be impossible with a torch, because of the heat.
Hope this helps

Jim, how much of a risk would it be to a garnet in having a sterling silver bezel removed (I don''t care about saving the bezel)?

Sorry, zhuzhu, for intruding on your thread!

 

[Circe]

Hey, Demon - it should be a fairly minimal risk for the stone. With un/setting, there''s almost always the possibility of *something* going wrong, but garnets are strong enough that I wouldn''t worry too terribly.

 

[Demon]

Thank you Circe!

 

[Jim Summa]

Demon,
Very slight, slightly more for stones with points.
On a side note your jeweler should inspect your stone for damage before preforming any work, so give yourself a few minutes so they have time for this.
I really do this to protect myself. Human nature being what it is its pretty amazing how little people notice about their jewelry until someone else has handled it.
I would guess your Garnet if in a ring or bracelet would show a little wear.

 

[Demon]

Date: 5/25/2010 12:02:01 PM
Author: Jim Summa
Demon,
Very slight, slightly more for stones with points.
On a side note your jeweler should inspect your stone for damage before preforming any work, so give yourself a few minutes so they have time for this.
I really do this to protect myself. Human nature being what it is its pretty amazing how little people notice about their jewelry until someone else has handled it.
I would guess your Garnet if in a ring or bracelet would show a little wear.

Thanks Jim. It''s a round, and seems to be in very good shape, but of course the jeweler needs to protect himself by inspecting it. It''s a cute little bezel, and I''m always drawn to the look of bezels - I just don''t like not being able to see all of the stone. I guess semi bezels would work for me.