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How do you do local vs online diamond buying?

morgin

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 17, 2013
Messages
79
Hey all:

i have a question about buying a stone locally vs. buying online. I've provided some background on my situation below, but for the TL;DR crowd, I need to find out how to talk to a local jewler about what he can offer for me buying a stone locally and sidestepping what I assume is fairly common responses to me talking about how AGS ASET images, idealscope images, and the values produced by using the HCA etc make me more comfortable with a rock. He's advocating some GIA stones (I think he mostly deals with canadian diamonds) and while I don't think it will ultimately matter to him if I buy from him or online (he's a setting guy, that's his forte) my lack of knowledge makes me uncomfortable. Anyway, see below:

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(previous threads)
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/help-with-setting-w-round-halo-vintage-rose-gold-canada.184463/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/help-with-setting-w-round-halo-vintage-rose-gold-canada.184463/[/URL]
This is where I start to look at settings and figure out what I want

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/help-with-tacori-2639-or-custom-made-rose-gold-halo.186541/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/help-with-tacori-2639-or-custom-made-rose-gold-halo.186541/[/URL]
Narrowed in on a Tacori setting, but want some changes. Ultimately discovered gf only liked certain elements of that setting, so have decided to go custom.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/thoughts-on-a-round-wf-1-213-ct-i-vs2.186629/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/thoughts-on-a-round-wf-1-213-ct-i-vs2.186629/[/URL]
Started looking at diamonds.
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So, I've decided that I am going to do a custom setting. I was fortunate to discover that my gf had gone with some of her friends and tried on the Tacori and only kind of liked it, but had some other thoughts more in line with my initial plan for what she wanted (this is why we are together!)

For example, she loves this halo:

(ignore rest of ring besides how the rose gold part looks).

She likes the basket style from the Tacori, but wants something a bit lower, and wants pave with an engraved band.

So, I went into a local custom jewler in my city and was really impressed by his work. He had a few pieces which were pretty much bang on in terms of what I am looking for. I've also contacted an online custom designer (M.T.) to get a sense of the cost differences between doing this in the USA vs here at home in Canada (and to have a second option since my gut feeling is that the online custom guys have way more familiarity with the "modern" diamond industry and sourcing online).

We (local guy and I) started discussing diamonds, and I mentioned that I'd been researching diamonds online and was fairly confident in the specs I was seeking. Sent him the WF link from one of my previous posts to show him an actual stone that matched my preferences.

His response from his gemologist, as I assume is typical with people who aren't comfortable with the internet, was basically that the images that you see on sites such as JA or WF can be deceiving, that most diamonds can show that type of image and the image can vary depending on the angle of the light, which can be manipulated, so that’s why GIA doesn’t approve or utilize this type of evaluation. He's offered to show me through his hearts/arrows viewer how all higher quality diamonds display that pattern if they are cut properly. I had asked for estimates on three diamonds of varying sizes to get a sense of his prices and was provided with these options - (1) 1.01, G, SI1 Clarity (eye-clean), Very Good Cut, $8,200; (2) 1.13, I, VS1 Clarity, Excellent Cut, $8,800; (3) 1.23, I, VS1, Excellent Cut, $9,800). He's asked if I want any of these brought in to look at in person (and confirmed all were GIA certificated).

I did get an overall good gut feeling from this guy and don't get the sense he REEALLY cares to steer me one way or the other, but theoretically is maybe just concerned I don't know what I'm looking for and thinks using his gemologist is going to get me a better stone at a similar price.

If I did get him to bring stones in for me to look at in person, what exactly am I supposed to be looking at? Part of why I trust sites like JA and WF are that I can send you guys the specs available to everyone and get a crowdsourced opinion. If its just me taking some guy's word without having high resolution images to show this site to get an opinion (which maybe I could get, but maybe not?) then I'm way less confident. That said, the prices seem in line IF the stones were of comparable quality. That's the big "if" though!

So, I don't want to discount buying locally (and doing everything through the guy if I'm comfortable with him for the setting too) but I also like everyone else want to maximize the diamond I'm getting and minimize the price I'm paying.

Thoughts? Anyone dealt with this? Is there any sort of guide for "You're relatively new to diamonds and are not shopping online, here's what you should do"? Is it ever advisable to buy a stone through a local custom jewler?

der-halo6-vintage-whiteshank-rosehalo-styledview.png
 
Wink of High Performance Diamonds once posted something like it takes hours/days to sell one of his stones for an online client, and maybe half an hour for a local client. The power of seeing things in person...

You can ask your local guy to find you some AGS 0 ideal cuts. Then let your eyes do the picking.
 
Thanks for the advice re: AGS. However, in the event he can't source AGS stones for whatever reason, is there some database online that one could look these up if they were GIA stones?

That is, is there an easy way for me to access all of the specs based on the fact they are GIA certified diamonds, so that I can do a quick HCA and figure out if I even want them brought in to look at? I guess I could just ask for a copy of the certificate to review, but if he just sends me a registration number or something, I assume that would be easier?

With rounds, provided the HCA score is acceptable, would I still be advised to buy my own idealscope or can anything kind of predict how an IS will look? I read that post the other day about how most stones aren't H&A, so if a H&A viewer shows it to have that appearance, can I make assumptions based on the GIA specs and HCA score that it is a well cut stone?
 
Part of me is like "just buy it online, you know you can find a great AGS 0 ideal with images for review and you know it will be great." Conversely, there is a lot of advice on here that it is often a good idea to have the designer source the stone they are working with.

My biggest problem is that having visited a few mall type jewelry stores before finding PS, and having had the BS shovelled at me about online stones always having flourecence, online images always being deceiving, online stones always being poorly cut, etc etc, I'm just very weary of people who profess to be diamond experts or having "gemologists" give them advice because it seems like all of you know way more than these people based on actual science. I find it hard to take anyone seriously when they immediately dismiss online vendors. I suppose there must be a ton of people running around with diamonds they found online that are poor quality, or perhaps it's forcing these gemologists out of business and they are grasping. Hard to say. Like I said, my gut feeling about this guy was good, but the line in his e-mail about the images on whiteflash being deceptive kind of nags at me because I can't imagine anyone here would agree with that sentiment.
 
Stick with GIA Excellent cuts only. If you can get the report numbers, we can look them up as long as we know the number and the weight of the stone on the report.

If you want some numbers as a guideline:

table: 54-58

deoth: 60-62 (or 62.3 max)

crown angle: 34-35

pavilion angle: 40.6-41.0

Staying in these boundaries usually will result in one of the better stones. We need an idealscope image to be sure (not from a hearts and arrows viewer), but if you really love a stone that falls into those numbers, then I'd say you'd be okay.
 
I feel like I should donate to this site somehow. You gals/guys are amazing. Thanks again. I can feel my stress levels dropping already!
 
One last Q from me - given everything I've outlined as to what I want, who would be your pick to design the setting? (that is, engraved sides of the band maybe with minor filigree, pave on top of the band, round halo with exellent milgrain, rose gold halo, intricate designed halo basket).

I see a lot of the top PS vendors offer some round halo variation, but none have quite what I want, so I'm going to have to go custom, either with local guy if he figures his deal out with diamonds and gets back to me, or with one of the PS recommended vendors. I see VC, SK, ERD (who I've contacted for initial discussions but their response can be a bit slow), and LM suggested quite often.

Anyone familiar with Whiteflash's or Good old Gold's custom work with halos?
 
Victor Canera for a true heirloom piece!!! His engraving is outstanding as is every other thing you mentioned. Other vendors have their strengths, but he is the one to make the ring you describe.
 
You are like a personal shopping assistant. Much thanks for always replying so quickly!
 
I just had one other thought if that option doesn't fit your budget. I think Beverley K would possibly make it and customize one of their designs. They do very nice rings of the style you are looking for. It just isn't 100% handforged like Victor's would be.

Take a look. Someone here had them alter a design to make the first ring on this page:

http://www.pearlmansjewelers.com/jewelry-designers/beverley-k-jewelry/rings/

Pearlman's shows many halos and I am sure there are more on the BK site:

http://www.beverleyk.com/engagement-rings/halo.html?limit=30

See if you like any of their halos and then contact Pearlman's or Good Old Gold and ask them to contact BK and ask if the halo can be made in rose gold. I feel sure they can. Pearlman's offers PS members 20% off most things, and GOG price matches. I'd probably buy the diamond from one of them, though, if I were going to use them for a setting.

(Oh, you are welcome! I just happened to see your new question! I love rings in this style, so I am happy I can give you some suggestions!)
 
diamondseeker2006|1363218763|3404332 said:

Oh wow. You are right. That's pretty much exactly what i described, minus the rose gold. Somehow though, it's nothing like what I envisioned haha. I'm not sure how to describe why I don't particularily like that, but I guess I should figure it out so I can be more precise if I'm getting custom work! I think it's the basket and halo itself, the rock seems to sit really high.
 
You have to be careful that the fat part of the gallery (under the halo) isn't too low because then it is hard to wear a wedding band near it. That diamond definitely could be set a little lower into the halo, though.
 
Beverley K has some halos in rose gold, so they might be able to do other ones that aren't shown. That particular design is tall because it is a flush-fit setting, as DS was saying. If you want an intricate basket and flush fit, it will probably have to be a little high off the finger, you want the basket to have enough space for its details. The setting height of the stone could made lower than in that sample picture, I would assume.

Does not allow for flush fit: http://www.pearlmansjewelers.com/jewelry-designers/beverley-k-jewelry/rings/115PP1/42/
 
Understood - by flush fit you mean flush with wedding band, not flush with finger. I'd always understood that wrong.
 
Well I have a custom inquiry in so we'll see how this goes!

I love the top view of the 2639:



If I was able to have a ring made with that sort of top profile in rose gold with a delicate but intricate basket to the halo in white gold or platinum and a white gold/platinum band with the top pave and a little custom engraving work on the band using a mountain/outdoors motif (lots of triangles and lines) with some subtle millgrain and filigree+carving where appropriate, I'm positive she'd be over the moon.

The way the band connects to the halo is something I haven't quite figured out though. Obviously the Tacori seems more cathedral:



Whereas there seems to be another way to connect, like this:



I think the cathedral will allow for more room to do a neat basket, and allows for a bit of carve out as well that is somewhat appealing looking. Anyone have any strong opinions either way on that aspect of halos?

I'm picturing similar to this with engraving, rose gold, and a different basket profile:



We'll see if people with design sensibilities think this is possible!

dreamingtacori033120114.jpg

2639rdp65_20.jpg

r-1377.jpg

es18099_w.jpg
 
Sometime I have regrets about not buying online bc I bought pre-ps...but, on the other hand, it turns out my diamond is decent for what i paid and overall but the best part is that my jeweler is great. He allows me to swap my settings for full credit and he even lets me downgrade and credits me. I do not kid you when I tell you that I have swapped my setting almost twice a year! He also rhodium plates, sizes, does anything to keep me happy and returning. So to answer your question, I think that if you find a jeweler who offers you perks and other free services, in the end, it is not all about the money that you save.
 
Yeah that's a great point. I don't think we have the sort of jewlery district in my city that has required local jewlers to develop those sorts of "speciality" services to compete.

Thanks to you all for your replies, especially diamondseeker and Julie and nielseel from a previous thread as you have all given tons of advice and I'd be pretty lost on what to do without your help!
 
You really need to go totally custom for what you are wanting. Victor Canera is at the top of the quality ladder (handforged) and Engagement Rings Direct is a more moderately priced cast option for going totally custom. They do antique rings so what you are asking wouldn't be hard. This is a repro of the Tiffany Legacy, for example:

http://www.engagementringsdirect.com/heather-bezel-micro-pave-halo-engagement-ring-bpid-259-16.html

Oh, and pleeeeease let them do engraving that is appropriate for the design of the ring! I don't think mountains go well on the side of an antique ring!
 
Can I take back mountains? I didn't mean mountains. It's what came to mind when I thought of that engraved triangle pattern. But yes, obviously being incapable of drawing more than stick men, I will leave decisions like those up to the pros :)

This is sort of what I meant (bottom part of this band), although in execution I would probably want it a little less busy and more subtle:

rg2802wbi-4.jpg
 
Well that was easy. After asking the local guy for GIA cert. numbers over email so I could look the stone specs up, he told me to go find my own diamond if I was that concerned and unable to trust him to get me the best diamond for the best price.
 
Well!!! Aren't you glad you didn't waste anymore time with him?!!!

Yes, glad to hear you mean traditional engraving!

Let us know if you want help finding a diamond!
 
In case anyone comes across this thread in search and is curious about other designs similar to what I'm looking at:

http://maytalhannah.com/

Ring 100 and Ring 151 under "collections" each have features similar to what I want. (worst website ever)
 
Yes, I like Maytal very much but her site is not the most user-friendly, that is for sure! She'd be perfect to make your ring, actually!
 
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