Help with simple sapphire earring design

[LilAlex]

I need expert help from the wonderful design-oriented folks on this forum! Long post -- sorry.

Your first thought will be, "Just ask her." I did that -- she wants experts' opinions!

I fell in love with these inexpensive, precision-cut, unheated pastel sapphires from Adamant. They are ~ 1.3 cts each and about 7 x 5 mm. Different hues but very similar tones and identical sizes and cuts. I was thinking of making a pair of funky mismatched earrings for my young adult (post-college-aged) daughter. She loves the idea! Her tastes are simple and our budget is modest. (It's a gift but she would not wear anything extravagant and we want these to be wearable.) She has a very physically demanding job in the alpine wilderness (half of her time) and then she's back home in her medium-sized city for the rest. She would not wear these in the field -- but, COVID-permitting, she goes out a lot with friends, etc. She's artistic and creative and a wonderful photographer.

So I was wondering how best to mount the stones (see below). I was even thinking about mixing metals -- using rose gold for the pinkish sapphire and white gold for the bluish one. But that may be insane (?) and just look like she can not keep track of her things. I really like the trend in some high-end stuff where one ear has an emerald drop hanging from a diamond stud and the other ear has a similarly-shaped diamond drop hanging from an emerald stud -- but six figures is high for us . I don't think we want a diamond halo around the sapphires -- a little fussy and formal -- but the stones are not that big at a hair over 5mm wide. I do think we want a diamond in the mix.

She wants me to design and I need help please!

A. These are the two "matched" sapphires:



B. This is kind of what I am looking for -- drop with a diamond above the main stone. The diamond would be at most 4mm which, if RBC would be couple hundred dollars. Was also thinking of a princess-cut set like a "diamond" and not a "square" (rotated 90 degrees) -- so 3mm princess would be 4mm "wide." This shape would echo the diamond-shaped table facet on the sapphires (best seen on the pinkish one):



C. Similar example -- but the melee along the hoop is too fancy, I think:



D. Another example like above but could do without the melee on the hoop (?):




E. Pretty Asscher atop the sapphire. And Asschers in the 4mm size we'd need just look like RBC to my eye online. But I really like the clean, tailored-looking lines on this one. Seems very wearable.




F. My favorite -- a longer blade-like drop with RBC in the middle. Again, I would use princess-cut rotated 90 degrees and skip the diamonds on the hoop part. Fancier but still pretty versatile (oh, and this pair is $75K for some reason!?!):



G. This is what I am hoping to avoid. These are beautiful but I'm not after an antique look:



H. And this is also what I want to avoid -- very pretty and snug halo but not modern-looking. Classic and pretty but not modern:



I. And this is what I really don't want. Certainly the cheapest options but classic posts with no movement are really not funky enough for her style and our stones are not eye-popping in color.




If you made it this far -- thank you! If you are willing to weigh in on design options for funky mismatched earrings, even better! And if you have comments on metals (i.e, both the same or mix it up?), that would also be great, too!

 

[Cerulean]

What a fun project! I like the first pair the most of these - I think the melee is too fussy on all of the examples with it, especially given your daughter's tastes as described.

I actually immediately thought of huggie hoops with dangles - you could do them with dangles attached, or not (just with a loop that slips on) - then she could also get wear out of the hoops! I also think bezels read more "casual"



I thought this mismatched pair was fun...without melee IMO



Or....mix it up!!!

I am imagining a single pair of hoops with a separate dangle. Whatever color she'd wear the most...one side, the sapphire on top, diamond on the bottom with alternating metal colors. And the reverse configuration for the other pair.

Here is my crap drawing of what I am talking about...



Alternate config...

 

[meely]

I don’t wear earrings much so not a great help but I think the stones are lovely. This is going to be a great project and I am sure your daughter will be thrilled. I think I would be tempted to do somehow asymmetric settings. I also love your idea of mixing the golds up. She is young and and I think I would make them funky no formal.

Oh actually these are my Mum’s earrings with similar pastel tones. Most awful photo I’m afraid I’ve cropped it out of a group shot but I wonder if you could do something similar. Using the smaller gemstones at the top is cheaper than big diamonds and they are so stunning irl.

 

[MiniMinerva]

I like @Cerulean ’s thought about bezels, and I also think @meely has a great point about playing with asymmetry. Since the sapphires are somewhat similar but with subtle differences in hue, it might be fun to accentuate the differences with complementary settings, or gold color, or secondary stones in the design.

In any case, you’re an awesome parent!

 

[LilAlex]

I actually immediately thought of huggie hoops with dangles - you could do them with dangles attached, or not (just with a loop that slips on) - then she could also get wear out of the hoops! I also think bezels read more "casual"

Oh that's brilliant -- thank you so much for these ideas!

I like the dangling bezel -- very clever! I worry that a sliding "charm" might, um, slide away...

Cool idea in your picture, too!

 

[LilAlex]

Most awful photo I’m afraid I’ve cropped it out of a group shot but I wonder if you could do something similar. Using the smaller gemstones at the top is cheaper than big diamonds and they are so stunning irl.

Thank you! Another nod of approval for asymmetry. And it helps to see them on the rug because that's what we'll see when we visit .

In any case, you’re an awesome parent!

Ha! Only now that they're out of the house...!

 

[Rfisher]

Not suggesting pearls, but I think this is neat on mismatched concept

 

[Cerulean]

Not suggesting pearls, but I think this is neat on mismatched concept

Love this!

 

[Bron357]

My vision would be a small round diamond stud, say .40 carat from which, by 2 chains (connected to the top of a 4 prong basket setting) hangs the sapphires.
One of the chains (each sapphire has 2 chains connecting it to the diamond stud above) in rose gold the other in white gold.
Id do the pastel pink sapphire basket in rose gold and the pastel blue basket in white gold With the diamond studs also in Rose and white gold.

 

[Sprinkles&Stones]

Your ideas are great! Can’t wait to see!

 

[LilAlex]

each sapphire has 2 chains connecting it to the diamond stud above

Thank you -- you always have such good ideas.

When I googled "2 chains earrings" I of course got this:



Do you have a picture of this style? Does the dangly part twist? Is the chain part super-short or like an inch long?

I do see a lot of cute stud-to-stud chains and she has multiple piercings -- but usually just tiny studs in those.

 

[emmy12]

Very left-field non-traditional ideas:
1. Threader-style earrings
2. Ear cuff (to be worn like a conch piercing)

These are extremely non-traditional so won't the earrings wearable long-term. But it occured to me that if she was really artsy and non-traditional there's a chance those would be up her alley.

That said, I like @Cerulean's idea of the detachable drops (with or without pave on the huggies or mini hoops, depending on daughter's style)

Along the lines of mix and match, versatile pieces you could make the sapphires into a detachable drops, and have a couple links so they swing freely under neath the studs. Studs could be simple diamond studs (princess cut, or as you like!) and then she can mix it up depending on mood (one stud + one drop, both drops) or just wear diamond studs for everyday (screw backs!)
.....now that I'm thinking about this design I WANT TO MAKE THESE. They sound cool. And I already have diamond studs... Hmmmmm.


"Apollo and Artemis" inspired replicas

Or if you wanted to flip the design around, make the sapphires into studs, you could have a detachable dropped diamond on them. (With or without the drop part being part of a detachable halo for the sapphire stud to spiff them up a bit for a Night Out)

I can't find a picture of exactly what I'm envisioning, but it would just attach on the post similar to how you can get basket halos to put around studs. Some amalgamation of these two pictures, but with a shorter linkage to allow movement instead of the long solid bar like shown. I did find a very extravagant LM version with an animation to boot. Scale it down tho!

Detachable drop earrings e7604

Our wedding special - custom made drop earrings featuring natural aquamarines set with finest diamonds, custom crafted in platinum. If the average cost of a pair of diamond earrings makes you cringe, please allow us to offer an amazing stand-in: enjoy this stunning pair of light-blue aquamarine...

www.leonmege.com

 

[emmy12]

My vision would be a small round diamond stud, say .40 carat from which, by 2 chains (connected to the top of a 4 prong basket setting) hangs the sapphires.
One of the chains (each sapphire has 2 chains connecting it to the diamond stud above) in rose gold the other in white gold.
Id do the pastel pink sapphire basket in rose gold and the pastel blue basket in white gold With the diamond studs also in Rose and white gold.

By 2 chains, did you mean like this?

also Forgot to give credit in my post and say the detachable stud idea is really just a riff on @Bron357's idea

 

[LilAlex]

Very left-field non-traditional ideas:
1. Threader-style earrings
2. Ear cuff (to be worn like a conch piercing)

These are extremely non-traditional so won't the earrings wearable long-term. But it occured to me that if she was really artsy and non-traditional there's a chance those would be up her alley.

That said, I like @Cerulean's idea of the detachable drops (with or without pave on the huggies or mini hoops, depending on daughter's style)

Along the lines of mix and match, versatile pieces you could make the sapphires into a detachable drops, and have a couple links so they swing freely under neath the studs. Studs could be simple diamond studs (princess cut, or as you like!) and then she can mix it up depending on mood (one stud + one drop, both drops) or just wear diamond studs for everyday (screw backs!)

Yes -- saw some of those. The threaders are unsupported (?) so I hate to hang a stone from one.

She has a conch piercing but only on one side (IIRC). The longer point-to-point chains make me really nervous in terms of snagging . She has nothing like that.

I love the drops you showed -- but that is out of both of our budgets!

I do like the idea of an articulation for some movement, especially since these are more sparkly than vivid (precision-cut but not very saturated). If I can do that with two jump rings like the diamond studs vs. a longer chain (or chains), that might be better.

I'm reluctant to make anything that truly detaches since I know that would create a lot of worry. Long hair that is sometimes up and sometimes down, lots of scarves, buffs, earbuds, headphones, etc. I don't think my spouse would want that for the same reasons -- even though it does sound like the most versatile.

Thank you for the input and insights!

EDIT: Oh, I really like that last dangle with the two diamonds on the blade! And the similar idea for the colored stones. I needed the animation in the Mege link to "get it" (eyeroll). So they are secured on the post and not via a clip or something. That might work!

 

[emmy12]

Yes -- saw some of those. The threaders are unsupported (?) so I hate to hang a stone from one.

She has a conch piercing but only on one side (IIRC). The longer point-to-point chains make me really nervous in terms of snagging . She has nothing like that.

I love the drops you showed -- but that is out of both of our budgets!

I do like the idea of an articulation for some movement, especially since these are more sparkly than vivid (precision-cut but not very saturated). If I can do that with two jump rings like the diamond studs vs. a longer chain (or chains), that might be better.

I'm reluctant to make anything that truly detaches since I know that would create a lot of worry. Long hair that is sometimes up and sometimes down, lots of scarves, buffs, earbuds, headphones, etc. I don't think my spouse would want that for the same reasons -- even though it does sound like the most versatile.

Thank you for the input and insights!

EDIT: Oh, I really like that last dangle with the two diamonds on the blade! And the similar idea for the colored stones. I needed the animation in the Mege link to "get it" (eyeroll). So they are secured on the post and not via a clip or something. That might work!

Yes! Exactly! They're on the post so they are sandwiched on the front of the lobe with the stud., Not a clip on. Highly recommend screw backs for security, as a fellow girl-on-the-go with long hair and not many thoughts given to jewelery. Inconvenient to take off....but that is the point!

Small simple dangles are my go-to if I dress up, but otherwise my screw back diamonds are on 100% of the time and never come off (save for once a year when I wear a different pair for a special event)

 

[LilAlex]

Small simple dangles are my go-to if I dress up, but otherwise my screw back diamonds are on 100% of the time and never come off (save for once a year when I wear a different pair for a special event)

This is great -- thank you! I should just have you talk to her directly!

 

[ringo865]

View attachment 822858

 

[ringo865]

 

[LilAlex]

Thanks! I love those and this would be perfect except I can not match the original material.

Ivan had actually re-cut one sapphire to "match" the other after seeing them side by side. They would not have caught my eye if each had been a one-off. Together they are kinda Harley Quinn colors -- not that she is our role model .

So then I'd be looking at sourcing my own pink and blue more-saturated sapphire studs -- and our budget goes out the window! That's why I think I'm stuck with tiny diamonds or nothing.

 

[ringo865]

doesn’t have to be sapphire, spinel and tourmaline come in many colors. If your sapphires are 7x5, the upper cushions could be appx 3.5 mm, so that when kite set they’d be appx 5 mm across. Spinel and tourmaline are less expensive than diamonds. And, if you’re going mismatched, they wouldn’t have to match exactly, they could just be similar. Good luck with this project, it sounds like it will be super fun!!

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

I like the idea of asymmetry, but I think since you already have colour asymmetry going on, the rest of the earring should probably be cohesive. I like the idea of kite set diamond studs a lot, and you could have the sapphires hang in an articulated drop; bezelling/faux bezelling all the stones to make them more casual. I think that would look gorgeous. If you want to do mismatched golds, I would have the diamond stud in the opposite gold to the sapphire (eg WG diamond bezel stud with PG peachy sapphire drop; and PG diamond bezel stud with WG lilac sapphire drop).

 

[emmy12]

I feel so invested in seeing a final result now! I wanted to do some mockups with different shaped diamonds and different settings single claw us bezel). Size-wise the 3-4mm range seems to look pleasing to my eye




Interms of top stones, The cushion cut or asscher I think would be more suitable to mimic theshape of the octagon and cutoff corners compared to the princess cut with Sharp corners.

Personally partial to a WG setting, or YG would be my second choice if mixed metals are a must-have. Something about the rose gold seems to suck the color away from the stones... not enough contrast to make the colors pop, so it wouldn't be my preference for this IMHO.






Something to consider if it does end up being a separate sapphire attachment on diamond studs is that the stud can rotate in any direction so might not always be at 90° 0r 45° like you would be able to do if they are fixed together.Possible way to overcome this is to include a keyway or anti-rotation element on the back of the stud that the dangle attachment would fit into. If it was me, I would use an square if you only want it to go one way, or an octagon if you wanted to have both options (Square or kite orientation of the stud).

or if you go with round, then it doesnt matter!


Hope this helped in some way. I can't wait to see What you end up doing!
.

 

[LilAlex]

And, if you’re going mismatched, they wouldn’t have to match exactly, they could just be similar.

True -- I could try to find small, vivid rounds.

I like the idea of kite set diamond studs a lot, and you could have the sapphires hang in an articulated drop

Me too. I think the studs need to be round since they will free-spin and not stay oriented in that kite configuration that I want to match the sapphires. Then I'm looking at two diamonds per side = fancy (RBC stud, plus kite-shaped + sapphire on the solid drop).

 

[emmy12]

I think the studs need to be round since they will free-spin and not stay oriented in that kite configuration that I want to match the sapphires.

see above pic for potential solution to this!!!

 

[LilAlex]

Hope this helped in some way. I can't wait to see What you end up doing!

Oh that is phenomenal -- thank you so much! I thought I was pretty good with these things but that is incredibly helpful and miles beyond what I could do. And it really drives home the point that I should stick with WG for both.

Also, although the princess cut has the right "outline," the faceting is too busy compared to the chunkier facets in the sapphire. I was drawn to the Asscher from the outset -- more contrasty and better match for the sapphire. (More $, alas!). But your juxtaposition really makes that clear!

I love the keyhole idea, too -- very clever!

EDIT: So you like octagon (Asscher) atop octagon (sapphire), accentuating the shapes with a bezel? That does seem more contemporary and less generic-looking than the prong-set. Since the sapphires are appealing but not eye-popping, these will need to be somewhat "design-forward" (like the ones @Cerulean suggested above). When I have them in hand, I'll have to see if they could stand up to a bezel. Thank you again for all the work!

 

[emmy12]

EDIT: So you like octagon (Asscher) atop octagon (sapphire), accentuating the shapes with a bezel? That does seem more contemporary and less generic-looking than the prong-set. Since the sapphires are appealing but not eye-popping, these will need to be somewhat "design-forward" (like the ones @Cerulean suggested above). When I have them in hand, I'll have to see if they could stand up to a bezel. Thank you again for all the work!

Yep. I'd pick the asscher cuts because the faceting doesn't distract from the sapphires and compliments them more than a radiant-type cut.

Set as a square or set like a kite both would look good!
EDIT: I think the kite would look the best!

As for setting, i think the bezel is modern and design-forward and highlights the shape of the stones better, but agree i would have the jeweler keep them as minimal as possible. If they swallow things up too much, maybe half bezels (top and bottom) could be feasible!

 

[emmy12]

Full bezel options
kite Vs square



Half bezel options
Couldn't getthe kite top to work with half bezel

 

[LilAlex]

Thank you again! I am really loving that one on the left!

The Asschers will cost more than the sapphires for sure -- but I think they really make it. I hope a bezel could be "tailored" closely enough to the Asscher silhouette that it doesn't just look round -- definitely benefits from that geometry, imo.

I'll need to compare the cost of bezel-set vs prong-set once I share all this with the intended recipient...

These are super-helpful!

 

[emmy12]

I find, like with most things in life, spending a little extra to make it exactly what you want means you won't have regrets later.

With the bezels, I would definitely make sure the location and angle of the junctions when they make the bezels lines up with with asscher facet angles.

 

[emmy12]

Bumping in hopes there might be a progress report! @LilAlex