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Help with marquise Paraiba ring design

rockyrookie

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
15
Hi everyone, this is the first time I’m working on a custom design and I would be grateful for your advice and help with designing a ring. Long post ahead!

I have asked David Klass to set a marquise Paraiba stone in a ring, based on a few inspiration designs. He’s done up a few CAD drawings for me based on my inspiration designs, and I’m a bit unsure about which to go with and what tweaks to make. This is also the first time I’m trying to envisage the final product from a CAD drawing, so I’m really unsure of my own judgment right now!

The main ring look is inspired by this design, but the 2 far side stones will be Paraiba instead of diamond.
8ADAAF1C-D681-4D6F-9587-37C7A6AE2D3C.jpeg

I also love the look of this halo and asked for the side stones beside the centre stone to include marquise shaped diamonds:
E2122674-9FC6-4304-9E74-312514D2948C.jpeg

So these are the two CAD drawings I’m now considering:
934EFD04-86A9-4C62-BFEC-4D598FB57E44.jpeg 929AA84B-469C-47A0-9512-8CB02F9F759C.jpeg

I generally am happy with the design but I’m still undecided between the side stone configurations in these 2 options.

Some questions I have:

- I’m not sure if in the first design, the diamond side stones would overwhelm the centre stone and feel of the ring? Would the negative space/gap between the side stone cluster and the end stones end up too small for the overall look? Or is it a more attractive and fuller design?

- The side stones are now asymmetrical as the right side is “higher” than the left due to the shape of the marquise side stones. Does this look strange? Would it look better if we went with all round diamonds instead? Perhaps something simple and symmetrical like this?
2AA139A9-7A5A-46C9-B315-ECEE057E5221.jpeg

I’m really not very sure what would look better right now so would appreciate any thoughts and views. Thank you!!
 

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AllAboardTheBlingTrain

Brilliant_Rock
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Apr 22, 2020
Messages
1,717
I prefer the rounder, fuller design of the first CAD and the asymmetry of the different shapes makes it more interesting to the eye. But my assumption is that the halo is all diamond, not a mix of diamond and paraiba. I think a mix of diamond and paraiba in the halo might look a bit busy and the centre stone might look lost. Nestled in between the diamonds I think it will hold its own because of the colour contrast. Having the two corner-most side stones on the band being paraiba would be the most paraiba-accents I go for.
 

LD

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
10,156
I hope you don't mind but I'm going to be honest and say I really don't like the marquise on the halo because the lack of symmetry would drive me to drink! If it's also causing one side of the ring to be higher (not sure why that would be the case) then the marquise are a definite no for me. I'm also not sure about having the side stones quite so far away from the central design because from a practical point of view I wonder if they will rub on adjacent fingers. From a design aspect, because you have such a narrow shank, the side accent stones also don't look like they're part of the overall design but that is purely from my own perspective and I'm sure others will love the look. If looking from above if the shank was wider towards the centre and then tapered out to the side stones I think that would be a more coherent look. I hope you don't mind me being so honest? I'll be excited to see what you do as I still haven't set my Paraiba marquise cabochon!
 

CSpan

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 7, 2016
Messages
1,111
Perhaps something like this would satisfy your desire for marquise. I agree with the above, the mix of stones in such a small amount of real estate may take away from the sheer beauty of the center. Maybe some bands is the compromise to get those paraibas in there?
Screenshot_20210430-114033_Instagram.jpg
 

PinkAndBlueBling

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
1,186
I don't mind the asymmetry itself, but I'm not sure about it with the side stones so far away. Your finger is only so wide and those appear to be at the side curve of your finger. Might feel annoying or add to the asymmetry of it. :confused:
 

rockyrookie

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
15
Thanks so much everyone for your comments! You have given me a lot to think about!

I prefer the rounder, fuller design of the first CAD and the asymmetry of the different shapes makes it more interesting to the eye. But my assumption is that the halo is all diamond, not a mix of diamond and paraiba. I think a mix of diamond and paraiba in the halo might look a bit busy and the centre stone might look lost. Nestled in between the diamonds I think it will hold its own because of the colour contrast. Having the two corner-most side stones on the band being paraiba would be the most paraiba-accents I go for.
Yes - the halo is going to be all diamond. The colours in the CAD make it a little confusing! Definitely agree not to mix Paraiba and diamond in the halo. Thanks for your vote for the first design! I'm leaning towards the fuller look too, and will see how to make the two sides more symmetrical.

I hope you don't mind but I'm going to be honest and say I really don't like the marquise on the halo because the lack of symmetry would drive me to drink! If it's also causing one side of the ring to be higher (not sure why that would be the case) then the marquise are a definite no for me. I'm also not sure about having the side stones quite so far away from the central design because from a practical point of view I wonder if they will rub on adjacent fingers. From a design aspect, because you have such a narrow shank, the side accent stones also don't look like they're part of the overall design but that is purely from my own perspective and I'm sure others will love the look. If looking from above if the shank was wider towards the centre and then tapered out to the side stones I think that would be a more coherent look. I hope you don't mind me being so honest? I'll be excited to see what you do as I still haven't set my Paraiba marquise cabochon!
Thanks so much for your candid feedback! Really appreciate you sharing your thoughts. I did like the asymmetry of the halo in the inspiration ring at first, but I do have concerns it will be a look that I will not enjoy in the long run. I'm thinking I will ask DK to do up a more symmetrical halo/side stones (like what CSpan suggested below) and see if I like that better.

For the side accent stones, I do like the look where they look slightly apart from the main centre cluster. Will share a photo of what it looks like on the finger! I'm hoping the comfort level will be similar to a half eternity ring with stones all across the front.

Perhaps something like this would satisfy your desire for marquise. I agree with the above, the mix of stones in such a small amount of real estate may take away from the sheer beauty of the center. Maybe some bands is the compromise to get those paraibas in there?
Screenshot_20210430-114033_Instagram.jpg
Thanks so much for sharing this! Yes, totally agree not to mix Paraiba and diamond in the halo, which is going to be all diamond (the CAD colours are confusing!).

The marquise side stones/halo look so lovely in this design and it is very symmetrical! I'm going ask DK about this and thinking I could also add a small round diamond to the top and bottom of each side to create a more rounded side cluster/halo-look.
 

rockyrookie

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
15
I don't mind the asymmetry itself, but I'm not sure about it with the side stones so far away. Your finger is only so wide and those appear to be at the side curve of your finger. Might feel annoying or add to the asymmetry of it. :confused:

Thanks for this! I do like the look with the slight gap between the centre cluster and side stones, but do agree the side stones would need to not be on the side curve or it will definitely feel annoying and rub directly on my fingers.

This is the look of the side stones on the hand - the stones should sit still on the top of the ring, just before the curve to the sides of the finger. Will mention this to DK!

image0 (4).jpeg image1 (2).jpeg
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
779
Given your two inspiration pics, I vote for the first one. Clarifying the offset of the outer stones will be key to a balanced look. Cant’ wait to see it finished!
 

rockyrookie

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
15
Given your two inspiration pics, I vote for the first one. Clarifying the offset of the outer stones will be key to a balanced look. Cant’ wait to see it finished!

Thanks so much for your vote!

After CSpan shared that design, I've been thinking and playing around with mockups, and I'm now veering towards a new, more symmetrical design based on that.

Sharing my terribly rough mockups that give a sense of what the new design could look like. The centre Paraiba pictured is a photo of my stone cropped out, so it should be the actual shade of the stone.

Based on the mockups, I think I like the version with the far side accent stones as diamonds instead of Paraiba (Option 2) below, as it looks more coherent with the marquise side stones.

Would welcome any thoughts and suggestions!

Option 1: Paraiba accent stones

Marquise wings 2.png
Option 2: Diamond accent stones
Marquise wings 1.png
 

AllAboardTheBlingTrain

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
1,717
Thanks so much for your vote!

After CSpan shared that design, I've been thinking and playing around with mockups, and I'm now veering towards a new, more symmetrical design based on that.

Sharing my terribly rough mockups that give a sense of what the new design could look like. The centre Paraiba pictured is a photo of my stone cropped out, so it should be the actual shade of the stone.

Based on the mockups, I think I like the version with the far side accent stones as diamonds instead of Paraiba (Option 2) below, as it looks more coherent with the marquise side stones.

Would welcome any thoughts and suggestions!

Option 1: Paraiba accent stones

Marquise wings 2.png
Option 2: Diamond accent stones
Marquise wings 1.png

Agreed that having all diamond looks better than a mix of diamond and paraiba for side stones, but I think the ring sort of loses some of the charm by making it so symmetrical. I think the asymmetrical one definitely looks more unique and cool to my eye. But ofc it all comes down to what you think!
 

rockyrookie

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
15
Agreed that having all diamond looks better than a mix of diamond and paraiba for side stones, but I think the ring sort of loses some of the charm by making it so symmetrical. I think the asymmetrical one definitely looks more unique and cool to my eye. But ofc it all comes down to what you think!

Thanks @AllAboardTheBlingTrain for this - it helped me arrive at the same conclusion that I like the original design more!

Sorry for the long radio silence - I've taken MONTHS to think about the design, and after many rounds of changes and getting a plastic model, this is the latest CAD drawing which I'm fairly happy with!

Getting the plastic model really helped with the perspective and I am going with the fuller halo design (first design) and increased the size of the melee diamonds. David has also made sure that the side stones are aligned on both sides.

I have also asked him to elevate the side stones into a cathedral setting shape, so they slope downwards from the centre stone. This is most obvious from the profile view (bottom left pic in the CADs).

Cathedral setting shape (Current Design):
DK 65244-QUAD-13.jpg


Previous design with flat side stones:
DK 65244-QUAD-12.jpg

Some final questions I have:

1) I am now wondering if aesthetically, this design has raised the side stones enough, or I should still ask him to elevate the side stones more, such that the side stones start just under the girdle of the centre stone, flush with where the cup starts? Would love to hear what people think!

2) The other thing is I've only just noticed that there is a cup for the centre stone! Is it the norm for marquise stone settings to include a cup rather than just have prongs? I am planning to get this ring done in rose gold, but I'm not sure if that colour would work for the Paraiba stone - not sure if it will make it look a weird colour? I've never seen the stone irl as I had it shipped directly to David, and I don't know if there is a major window (it didn't from the vendor pics as it is moderately included). If we include the cup, should I ask for it to be done in a white metal instead?

I would be grateful for any thoughts on my questions above and the current CAD design. I am so excited that we are now in the last stretch and I just want to check the final few details as I'm well aware that I'm no jewellery designer!!

Thanks so much to everyone who shared your views - I really appreciate you taking the time!
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
4,813
1) I like the side stones as they appear in this CAD. Wouldn't change it.
2) I suspect the cup is designed to protect the marquis. Paraiba is a softer stone, and with two tips to project, it is risky to wear it N-S with prongs (more likely to catch on something and damage the stone).
 

AllAboardTheBlingTrain

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
1,717
Yay I’m glad you’re sticking with the assymetry! I like the side stones as they are in your new CAD as well, I think the cathedral-ish slope was a good idea.

As for the cup, I think to be safe having the paraiba cupped in WG with the rest of the ring in RG is the best way to go. I would be afraid of the colour clash otherwise.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
4,813
As for the cup, I think to be safe having the paraiba cupped in WG with the rest of the ring in RG is the best way to go. I would be afraid of the colour clash otherwise.

I would personally say NO! to brittle white gold with paraiba in case the paraiba gets set in white gold. The best white colored metal for paraiba is platinum, which is malleable instead of hard and brittle like white gold alloys and poses less risk for setting. Rose gold is less risky for paraiba than is white gold because rose and yellow gold alloys are more malleable than the white.
 

AllAboardTheBlingTrain

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
1,717
I would personally say NO! to brittle white gold with paraiba in case the paraiba gets set in white gold. The best white colored metal for paraiba is platinum, which is malleable instead of hard and brittle like white gold alloys and poses less risk for setting. Rose gold is less risky for paraiba than is white gold because rose and yellow gold alloys are more malleable than the white.

Oh I didn’t actually know that! My jeweler sets emeralds in WG, so I assumed that WG would be safe for paraiba. 18kt though, if it makes a difference.

I’ll revise that suggestion to a platinum cup and RG everything else, then!
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
4,813
Oh I didn’t actually know that! My jeweler sets emeralds in WG, so I assumed that WG would be safe for paraiba. 18kt though, if it makes a difference.

I’ll revise that suggestion to a platinum cup and RG everything else, then!

I'm not sure about the malleability with 18k WG (I think platinum is still more malleable), but paraibas on the market tend to be just as if not more included than emerald, and are lower than emeralds on the hardness scale so even more delicate. I think with this year's good prices, platinum is cheaper than 18k gold. I'm getting as much done in platinum this year as I can!
 

AllAboardTheBlingTrain

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
1,717
I'm not sure about the malleability with 18k WG (I think platinum is still more malleable), but paraibas on the market tend to be just as if not more included than emerald, and are lower than emeralds on the hardness scale so even more delicate. I think with this year's good prices, platinum is cheaper than 18k gold. I'm getting as much done in platinum this year as I can!

Good to know, thank you! I wasn’t aware that paraibas are so delicate (I don’t own any yet). Will keep this in mind for future projects :)
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
4,813
Good to know, thank you! I wasn’t aware that paraibas are so delicate (I don’t own any yet). Will keep this in mind for future projects :)

One of the setters working for Yvonne (Cecile Raley Designs) has said setting paraibas are like setting soap bubbles. That will always stay in my mind. It's perhaps a bit of an exaggeration, but it must have been born from experience of breaking them during the setting process.
 

rockyrookie

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
15
Thanks so much @voce and @AllAboardTheBlingTrain!!

The advice on metal choice is so helpful - I've learnt something about paraibas as well as the different metals! A platinum cup sounds like the way to go then! The info on prices definitely helps too! :bigsmile:

In fact I'm now wondering if I should do the whole ring in platinum to avoid any potential issues... Would that be safer than doing the rest of the ring in rose gold? There will still be the V-tips and claw prongs on the top of the paraiba stone, which will remain rose gold if I only change the cup to platinum.

Also thanks for your thoughts on the side stones! I feel much more confident proceeding with the current design!
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
4,813
Thanks so much @voce and @AllAboardTheBlingTrain!!

The advice on metal choice is so helpful - I've learnt something about paraibas as well as the different metals! A platinum cup sounds like the way to go then! The info on prices definitely helps too! :bigsmile:

In fact I'm now wondering if I should do the whole ring in platinum to avoid any potential issues... Would that be safer than doing the rest of the ring in rose gold? There will still be the V-tips and claw prongs on the top of the paraiba stone, which will remain rose gold if I only change the cup to platinum.

Also thanks for your thoughts on the side stones! I feel much more confident proceeding with the current design!

Rose gold should be fine as far as safety is concerned. Remind me why two types of metal?

As far as pricing right now, it should go like 14k < plat < 18k. There were projects from previous years where I was quoted 18k prices but was upgraded to platinum.

It would be cheaper, most likely to do only one type of metal, unless you're set on the two-tone look. Your paraiba should look good in either rose gold or platinum. The only definite no from me would be 14k WG... I just prefer platinum over 18k WG at the moment due to the relative prices for precious metals at the moment... I can tolerate heavier metal weight for my rings. The only reason to go with 18k WG is if platinum would be too heavy for you to wear the rings often.
 

rockyrookie

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
15
Rose gold should be fine as far as safety is concerned. Remind me why two types of metal?

As far as pricing right now, it should go like 14k < plat < 18k. There were projects from previous years where I was quoted 18k prices but was upgraded to platinum.

It would be cheaper, most likely to do only one type of metal, unless you're set on the two-tone look. Your paraiba should look good in either rose gold or platinum. The only definite no from me would be 14k WG... I just prefer platinum over 18k WG at the moment due to the relative prices for precious metals at the moment... I can tolerate heavier metal weight for my rings. The only reason to go with 18k WG is if platinum would be too heavy for you to wear the rings often.

I initially planned to do all rose gold, but then realized that probably wouldn't work for the cup due to the colour of the metal, which was when the idea of a platinum cup came in.

I am fine with platinum settings for rings - my considerations were mainly aesthetic as I thought the rose gold may look more interesting. But I actually also considered doing the ring in a white metal, so now it sounds like it may just make more sense to go all platinum! I will check with David on this!

Thanks so much for sharing all the considerations in detail!
 
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