Help with ASET interpretation

[vinscor]

Hi all,

That's my first post so please be tolerant if I say something silly.

So I want to propose soon, and need to get a diamond. My instruction were at least 1 ct but not too big either (whether she meant that or not, I'll never know) and round. Now I want to buy her something pretty nice, so I did some research on what is important and so on. I'd like a true Heart and Arrows. From what I understand they are not necessary more beautiful, but they are special.

From what I gather I think I want at least a VS1 (I'll be buying online and get it shipped in Australia so with VS1 I think I should be safe on not having a bad visible inclusion and don't have to worry about it) and F grade.

Now for the cut, well I'm looking at the best I can find and of course that's where things get complicated for me. I have looked at dealers who gives lots of information (GOG, WF...) but I am getting lost in what is important or not. For exemple looking at the ASET pictures, I notice that a lot of signature ideal cut stones display 'green' under the table. Is that bad? From what I can gather from GOG tutorials, it seems that it is a sign of painted girdle which they say is not good. But then I found a stone that seems to be displaying much more red, but is 'only' AGS1 in cut grading compared to AGS0 for the other (I think it has a 1 grade on the polish, so I don't know if it is important). Finally I found one which seems to be a AGS0 and have a very good ASET pictures (for what I know at least), but unfortunately it is a D color grade (unfortunately because obviously it is pricier, and probably unnecessary).

Here are the link to the three stones I have in mind:

http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/8335/
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/8803/ (this one is a a bit shallow and large, and with 1.14 ct it might look a bit too big)
http://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-2587971.htm

Any help or opinions is appreciated. I have spent nights and nights searching for stones, and I am exhausted. I don't know if I am being a bit too picky. The problem is that I did not get the chance to look at real diamond, and I know that it is really the only way to judge them correctly. But I will have to buy online. Australia is limited in the diamond they can offer me and are very very expensive!

Thanks for your time.

 

[yssie]

It can be complicated - information overload! First, congrats on your decision to purchase! Those three all look very nice and will all be super sparkly, none are overly shallow or anything like that - nothing to worry about. Does one vendor have the setting you prefer? Better to buy the stone and setting from the same vendor if at all possible.


Now to your specific points -

1. Do you mean a green circle in the middle of the stone, under the table? If so, truly, it's nothing to worry about either way - ASET peculiarity. You can read more here if you're interested [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/ags-aset-40-768-pavilion-on-the-ledge.29977/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/ags-aset-40-768-pavilion-on-the-ledge.29977/[/URL]

2. Painting (or digging, collectively types of "brillianteering") refer to how the crown facets meet the pavilion facets at the girdle. You'll see some side-effects under the table, but this isn't something you need to worry about if you're looking for a branded hearts and arrows stone from a PS vendor, because

3. The stones are in-house, meaning that if you call or email in about a specific stone they can tell you about it and answer all your questions with the stones in-hand. They aren't going to let you choose a stone they know you'll be unhappy with. If you must buy blind, without being able to see it in-person before having it set, an in-house stone from a vendor you trust is your next best option.

The long version - skip if you don't care
Different vendors have different requirements for stones in their branded H&A lines. Different proportions - crown, pavilion, lower half length, table - yield different 'flavours' of performance, and can result in stones with different hearts and arrows patterns - differences in V thickness, whether or not the hearts have clefts, cleft size... Some vendors require that their branded H&A stones conform to tight proportions ranges, so their stones will all look and perform with the same flavour, and will show similar hearts and arrows patterns under a H&A scope. Other vendors do away with the proportions specifications, and merely require that stones are precision cut such that they do display that precise radial optical symmetry. Just different sales models - one isn't better than the other!

 

[vinscor]

Thanks Yssie,

I read (part) of the thread you referred to. Some of it was way beyond my understanding, but from what I gather, the green spot on the table is not really an issue. I know GOG talks about painting girdle side effects, and I guess I'm a bit worried about it. From what they say, the grade of the stone really does not tell you much because of these (they give an example with what they call the ring of death being better than a AGS0).

Also, I was wondering if it is worth going from F to E color grading? From reading all the forum I reviewed my threshold for the clarity which was originally VVS2. For the color I am still undecided as some people claim they can see the difference between E and F. What are people thoughts on this? I really like the D stone from WF but it is slightly too expensive ( I have to add some import/duty taxes: 10%).

For the setting I went to see a jeweler/wholesaler here who makes custom design settings for loose stones. Since my partner has some very specific taste I think it is safer that she come choose herself. I will set the stone up on a basic setting for the proposal and then go back there with her to get a custom made. Is there any problem in doing this?

 

[yssie]

Thanks Yssie,

I read (part) of the thread you referred to. Some of it was way beyond my understanding, but from what I gather, the green spot on the table is not really an issue. I know GOG talks about painting girdle side effects, and I guess I'm a bit worried about it. From what they say, the grade of the stone really does not tell you much because of these (they give an example with what they call the ring of death being better than a AGS0).

Yes - the circle under the table is a non-issue, whatever colour. Brillianteering is a normal part of cutting a stone, it's when it's over-done to achieve certain looks (or preserve weight) that we start worrying about the effects on appearance and light return... You don't need to worry about brillianteering w/ negative connotation w/ any of those three stones - or for that matter any branded H&A stones from either of those vendors. The grade may not tell you what you are looking for (different labs have different opinions and requirements and tolerances, for lack of better wording), but you have pictures to fill in the blanks with, and as I said earlier if you are really concerned about something you can always contact them, though in this case you don't need to be

Also, I was wondering if it is worth going from F to E color grading? From reading all the forum I reviewed my threshold for the clarity which was originally VVS2. For the color I am still undecided as some people claim they can see the difference between E and F. What are people thoughts on this? I really like the D stone from WF but it is slightly too expensive ( I have to add some import/duty taxes: 10%).

Some can and care, and view more tint negatively. Some can and care, and view more tint positively.
Some can't and care. Some can't and don't care. Some can't and claim they can, because they care.
Realistically, unless your intended has a fantastic eye for colour, or works in a field where minute colour variations are important or already owns a D of similar size and so has trained her eyes or something, D-F will make absolutely no difference. You may see the differences in colour with the stones loose and next to each other, but once set and on her finger without those proximal comparisons it's just going to be *white*!

For the setting I went to see a jeweler/wholesaler here who makes custom design settings for loose stones. Since my partner has some very specific taste I think it is safer that she come choose herself. I will set the stone up on a basic setting for the proposal and then go back there with her to get a custom made. Is there any problem in doing this?

I love the idea of proposing with a simple solitaire and including her in choosing the final setting she'll have a ring to wear and show off right afterward, and it takes away the pressure of finding the *perfect setting* right away

 

[vinscor]

I love the idea of proposing with a simple solitaire and including her in choosing the final setting she'll have a ring to wear and show off right afterward, and it takes away the pressure of finding the *perfect setting* right away[/quote]

My thoughts exactly