Help set a zircon from stock settings and no CADs

[Tartansparkles]

I'd like your help with setting my zircon please. (I thought the jeweller would just bend the gold pin into a ring shape, but turns out it's not as simple as that )

I want something simple and fun, a ring that makes me smile every time I look at it, so here is the inspiration photo (I know, not everyone's cup of tea!). Maybe I'm trying to recreate my younger days.


The jeweller got the idea straight away and pulled this from their window:



I like the flat band and would opt for yellow gold in satin finish so the sheen hopefuly compliments the platinum ring.

I raided MIL's jewellery box to try and get some ideas.

7mm band, too wide and too flat:


(Two) thicker bands totalling 5mm. Looking better. (My finger is UK I1/2, 5 US?)


The question is whether to go for a claw setting or a bezel. I want the ring to be chunky. The bezel setting would give me the chunky look, but I worry that all I'll end up seeing is the cup of white metal. The claw setting is more appealing, but it might be too dainty.

The jeweller is what I believe is referred to a bench jeweller but I could be wrong (his fingers were black and he does all the work himself). He owns his own high street shop with his wife and SIL as sales assistants. They've been there for years and people do mention the shop by name, but it's not a fancy place and there are certainly no CADs. So this has to be done by putting stock pieces together. (CADs are an option elsewhere but they are out of budget). He and his wife spent a great of time with me on a busy Saturday afternoon and were very helpful. But with budget constraints I need to make the ring from what he has available in his catalogue of mounts and settings.

Does anyone have a bezel or claw setting on a flat band and have pictures to share? Thank you!

 

[dk168]

IMHO, the chances of finding a stock setting is slim as:
(a) a chunky flat band is uncommon
(b) satin-finish band is uncommon
(c) ready made stock bezel settings usually require the stone to be a calibrated standard size
(d) Zircons can be very deep, and may not fit into stock settings

Another issue to note: if the stone is deep, the ring gallery/side view could do with a bit of detailing to avoid looking dull.

I have attached a pic of my 9mm Asscher cut unheated blue Topaz that I intend to re-set as I do not like the dull side view. I have an oval Zircon being set, and have rejected the first CAD for the same reason, and asked for some details to be added to the gallery.



I could be wrong, hopefully the more experienced CSers will come along to offer their wisdom.

DK

 

[T L]

I'd like your help with setting my zircon please. (I thought the jeweller would just bend the gold pin into a ring shape, but turns out it's not as simple as that )

I want something simple and fun, a ring that makes me smile every time I look at it, so here is the inspiration photo (I know, not everyone's cup of tea!). Maybe I'm trying to recreate my younger days.


The jeweller got the idea straight away and pulled this from their window:



I like the flat band and would opt for yellow gold in satin finish so the sheen hopefuly compliments the platinum ring.

I raided MIL's jewellery box to try and get some ideas.

7mm band, too wide and too flat:


(Two) thicker bands totalling 5mm. Looking better. (My finger is UK I1/2, 5 US?)


The question is whether to go for a claw setting or a bezel. I want the ring to be chunky. The bezel setting would give me the chunky look, but I worry that all I'll end up seeing is the cup of white metal. The claw setting is more appealing, but it might be too dainty.

The jeweller is what I believe is referred to a bench jeweller but I could be wrong (his fingers were black and he does all the work himself). He owns his own high street shop with his wife and SIL as sales assistants. They've been there for years and people do mention the shop by name, but it's not a fancy place and there are certainly no CADs. So this has to be done by putting stock pieces together. (CADs are an option elsewhere but they are out of budget). He and his wife spent a great of time with me on a busy Saturday afternoon and were very helpful. But with budget constraints I need to make the ring from what he has available in his catalogue of mounts and settings.

Does anyone have a bezel or claw setting on a flat band and have pictures to share? Thank you!

Whatever jeweler you use, make sure they know how to work with softer stones. I definitely wouldn’t bezel due to the durability issues with zircon. It is really prone to facet abrasions.

 

[Tartansparkles]

Thanks @T L , when I opened the parcel the jeweller said "oh a zircon" then pulled some from the safe to show me rings he was working on. It was he who suggested the bezel so I would take it that he has some familiarity with the stone, but I'm aware from PS that there can be different levels of workmanship when it comes to bezels, and that is a bit of a concern.

Hello @dk168. Sorry, I should have been clearer in my original post. I am going to provide the gold which the jeweller will melt down and create a gold band from scratch. In theory I *should* be able to decide on specific dimensions and finish. I think he will then peg set a claw setting although I don't know how the bezel is attached. (When two colours of gold are used, how do they stop the 'colours' running into one another).

Your comment about side view is spot on though because it's the side view that's bothering me. I'm finding it hard to visualise between the bezel/cup view and the prong view.

The stone is 9-10mm and 4-5mm deep and the bezel would look like this:


Does anyone know what 'catalogue' UK jeweller's use? I'd love to have the time to look through it so I can put together my own 'pick n mix'.

I also spotted this bezel in the corner of the page:

 

[dk168]

Pass with shopping or having anything made in the UK many years ago due to high prices.

There is a big findings company with stock settings in Hatton Garden, Cookson Gold, worth a look at what they can offer for ideas.

DK

 

[Tartansparkles]

I was on Cookson's site earlier, I have bought from them in the past and would recommend, but sadly nothing this time. Agreed, living in the UK has it's jewellery disadvantages!

 

[arkieb1]

In the US what many good benches do is just heat and bend the pin part around and actually just make the back band part of the ring out of the actual brooch, that's the cheapest and easiest option and you just leave the whole thing as is. A brooch to ring conversion.

 

[Tartansparkles]

In the US what many good benches do is just heat and bend the pin part around and actually just make the back band part of the ring out of the actual brooch, that's the cheapest and easiest option and you just leave the whole thing as is. A brooch to ring conversion.

That's kind of what I had in mind, to just bend the gold that is already there. I had a look on Etsy for more inspiration and most of the pin to ring conversions come from the US vendors. As jewellery consumers I think we are lot less adventurous and more conservative in our approach and expectations.

 

[Sungura]

@Tartansparkles
I saw this ring on eBay and thought of you. While it is quite different from your inspiration ring I think it has a similar chunky vibe

 

[Tartansparkles]

@Sungura, I love it! (I think my (lovely) suburban run-of-the-mill jeweller might faint at the thought though )