Help me with a ring setting for my Russian alexandrites

[Django74th]

I’ve had these sweet, tiny Russian alexandrite (natural) sitting loose in my drawer for several years and I’m ready to set them. They have a story behind them and I love the color change so while I‘m all for diamonds, I really want to showcase the alexandrites as the star. They are about 1/4 ct each and measure 2x3mm. They are simply gorgeous and despite my millions of attempts in different lighting, the photos below are the best I can do (they are tricky little guys).

I’m inclined to avoid a band or stacker band look (I have a lot of that design in my box already). I’m looking for something more unique then 4 ovals, side by side, with some diamonds around it. I’d like something with good finger coverage (though since I’m a size 4.75, that’s not hard to do) so maybe have diamond or whatever metal I choose going around like a frame? I’m also wondering if I were to choose rose cut diamonds if that would help make the alexandrites stand out more (since rose cuts are a bit more “matte“ than sparkly)? I’ll put some photos of inspiration designs I’ve found so far in a subsequent post... clearly, I’m all over the place design wise.

I’d love any and all ideas on ring settings for 4 small oval stones that deserve a better life than in my drawer!

 

[Django74th]

Here are a few inspiration settings I’ve found so far that have general design features that I like. I also sketched something I was thinking about — clearly I’m not an artist and I can’t figure out how to rotate it. I’m not looking to choose one of these (just for ideas) and I’d obviously change some stone shapes and use diamonds or another gemstone (open to ideas) to fill in since I only have 4 alexandrites.



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[voce]

CRD has a version of the Lily design that has four ovals surrounding a round center stone, where the ovals could be leaves. As far as I know, they are willing to make settings for gems you didn't buy from them but won't take the risk of setting.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

You could use single cuts instead of rosecuts. Also a more subtle sparkle then full cuts but maybe easier to source then rosies.

 

[PinkAndBlueBling]

As far as I know, they are willing to make settings for gems you didn't buy from them but won't take the risk of setting.

I asked her about setting one of my stones earlier this year. This was her reply: "sure we can make the ring for you but as per our policy we do not set outside stones. We have no insurance for this and setters do not guarantee gems. So you would have to have the center set locally assuming it fits."

 

[voce]

I asked her about setting one of my stones earlier this year. This was her reply: "sure we can make the ring for you but as per our policy we do not set outside stones. We have no insurance for this and setters do not guarantee gems. So you would have to have the center set locally assuming it fits."

I think that's completely fair, and it's not that difficult to find setters who can set alexandrite, which is only below diamond and sapphire for hardness.

 

[Django74th]

CRD has a version of the Lily design that has four ovals surrounding a round center stone, where the ovals could be leaves. As far as I know, they are willing to make settings for gems you didn't buy from them but won't take the risk of setting.

Nice idea! I reached out to CRD and she said the ovals are 4x3 so whomever sets them would need to add a milgrain border to make them fit. I’m wondering if it will look bulky...

 

[Django74th]

You could use single cuts instead of rosecuts. Also a more subtle sparkle then full cuts but maybe easier to source then rosies.

Good idea on the single cuts — I was wondering how I’d find rose cuts in just the right size. I like the first one but a little worried about so many prongs get stuck on things throughout the day. Maybe bezel?

 

[voce]

Nice idea! I reached out to CRD and she said the ovals are 4x3 so whomever sets them would need to add a milgrain border to make them fit. I’m wondering if it will look bulky...

Her existing Lily design is for 4x3. You could have her design a 3x2 version, or you could go with an existing 3x2 design.

CRD's Stella design uses 8 3x2 ovals around a round. If you don't want to pay for CAD fees to do a new Lily design to custom fit your gems, another option is to get four other 3x2 ovals to alternate with the alexandrites in the Stella (she has both ring and pendant versions).

14 Kt Rose Gold Star Pendant Stella Pendant With Burma Spinel - Etsy

Providing high-quality gemstones on Etsy since 2009! Cecile Raley Designs is a proud member of the American Gem Trade Association. NEW. This eight star pendant is 12.5mm wide and holds a 4mm center gem - in this case a Merelani Mint Garnet - and eight 3x2mm oval gemstones, for which I picked 3x2mm

www.etsy.com

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

Good idea on the single cuts — I was wondering how I’d find rose cuts in just the right size. I like the first one but a little worried about so many prongs get stuck on things throughout the day. Maybe bezel?

I'm a huge bezel fan and definetly think that top design would work with bezels. In fact , if it were mine, that's what I'd choose!
Single cuts are very pretty . I used them in a halo for the same reason you stated- I didn't want the center overwhelmed. They still catch the light and sparkle but its more subdued.

 

[Django74th]

@voce — I reached out to CRD to find out more... definite possibility... I just need to decide if I want something so floral. I like it a lot but want to make sure it’s still something I’ll reach for to wear in the future.

@CHRISTY-DANIELLE — I like it! Maybe some detail work on the bezel too. I had another idea, almost based on your suggestion. What if the alexandrites sat in a pear shape setting with 3 tiny diamonds to create the vertex, just to add something unique to it? Here’s my crummy drawing.... too much?

 

[voce]

@CHRISTY-DANIELLE — I like it! Maybe some detail work on the bezel too. I had another idea, almost based on your suggestion. What if the alexandrites sat in a pear shape setting with 3 tiny diamonds to create the vertex, just to add something unique to it? Here’s my crummy drawing.... too much?

I think the physical dimensions of your alexandrites makes 3 diamonds per pear not possible. The smallest diamonds a setter can set securely are 0.8mm diameter. Figuring that you're going to need three prongs across to set the two between the tip and your alexandrite ovals, you'd need a width of approx. 0.5+0.8+0.5+0.8+0.5 = 3.1mm, which is wider than your alexandrite and will look weird, since the corresponding width of your alexandrites are only 2mm when set the way you're drawing it.

Just because you can imagine smaller diamonds, doesn't mean a jeweler can set it. 0.8 mm diamonds are already almost like sand; you sneeze, and you can scatter them across the table and lose them.

What is feasible is a single diamond per pear tip in the 1.0-1.2 mm range.

 

[Django74th]

I think the physical dimensions of your alexandrites makes 3 diamonds per pear not possible. The smallest diamonds a setter can set securely are 0.8mm diameter. Figuring that you're going to need three prongs across to set the two between the tip and your alexandrite ovals, you'd need a width of approx. 0.5+0.8+0.5+0.8+0.5 = 3.1mm, which is wider than your alexandrite and will look weird, since the corresponding width of your alexandrites are only 2mm when set the way you're drawing it.

Just because you can imagine smaller diamonds, doesn't mean a jeweler can set it. 0.8 mm diamonds are already almost like sand; you sneeze, and you can scatter them across the table and lose them.

What is feasible is a single diamond per pear tip in the 1.0-1.2 mm range.

Ah yes — makes sense! Thanks for the reality check! Really appreciate it. This is definitely a learning experience!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

Maybe you could add graduated beading in the pear shape instead of diamonds? Beading is more pronounced then milgrain. I have a beaded frame around my diamond. It adds texture and catches the light.


I played with some layouts . These are pretty close to scale. I think the overall dimension of the head would be around 13 mm. Definetly good coverage on your tiny finger!

 

[Django74th]

@CHRISTY-DANIELLE — I love the beadwork idea! Thank you so much for your help with sketching. I love the first and third ones — so nice with the two tone. I’m reaching out to a jeweler to get a sense of pricing. I think I will likely go with your suggested option #1 with the beading — such a good idea! So appreciative for your help!

@voce -- I think the CRD option might be too floral for me. With that said, thank you for the great advice on reality vs sketches… really good point!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

@CHRISTY-DANIELLE — I love the beadwork idea! Thank you so much for your help with sketching. I love the first and third ones — so nice with the two tone. I’m reaching out to a jeweler to get a sense of pricing. I think I will likely go with your suggested option #1 with the beading — such a good idea! So appreciative for your help!

@voce -- I think the CRD option might be too floral for me. With that said, thank you for the great advice on reality vs sketches… really good point!

I sketched (very crudely) up one more like your version too. I don't know if you are in the US, but I think DanielM (DanielMJewelry on Etsy) could do this. His prices are very good---worth a quote. I use DK too but you will pay more. I find Dan very easy to work with. If nothing else check out his work. He has a lot of pieces with beading too.