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Help me build my tennis bracelet

I

itzme

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
89
Hi PS’ers! I am looking into getting a tennis bracelet made, and am going down different rabbit holes. I hope I can get some insights on the technical differences of difference mountings and would appreciate opinions on the aesthetic aspect as well.



I would like something that has some presence on its own but is also easily stackable. I currently have the Cartier Juste un clou in yellow gold, a thin rose gold chain bracelet with a single bar of small diamonds (about 3 pointers) and a few dainty costume bangles. I don’t wear any bracelets regularly, but I’d like the versatility to wear it solo or stacked.



I seem to gravitate towards the traditional 4 prong line bracelet but with more distinction of the roundness of the stones.



I went to a jewelry store to try on different sizes and to measure the length I need for my wrists. I think I’m going to need a 6 inch bracelet, but will remeasure my wrist before finalizing anything. I tried on 12 pointers (3.1mm) and 14.5 pointers (3.35mm). I felt the 12 pointers were a little too dainty on its own but stacks well with the Juste Un Clou, and I can see it working well with other daintier bangles/ bracelets. The 14.5 pointers, at first, felt a little too bold to stack with the Juste Un Clou but after reviewing my pics and videos I think it feels fine now. I love the 14.5 pointers on its own and see it stacking well with other daintier bangles/bracelets. I liked that the 12 pointers sat lower on my wrist. My friend let me try on her tennis bracelet with 15 pointers (unsure of the measurement in width), and it was beautiful alone and stacked with my daintier pieces.



The first place I went to said if I go for 13-13.5 pointers (3.25mm) they have a setting that’s in between the 12 pointers and the 14.5 pointers to accommodate those stones. However they don’t have one on hand. I haven’t been able to find 3.25mm tennis bracelets to try on to see if there’s much of a visual difference.



For the visual aspect:

  1. Does anyone have a preference on the height of the mounting?
  2. Do you think a bracelet made with 3.25mm compared to 3.35mm stones would have much of a visual difference?


Technical Aspect:

  1. The first place that I’m considering has a setting that makes the stones look rounder, but not as round as my friend’s. I’m comparing the pictures and I can tell what makes one setting make the stone more round versus another. A minor difference in the prong placement? The spacing? I can’t figure it out. Pic 1: my friend’s rounded bracelet for reference.78067367046__8DDAF7FF-C0B9-44E8-92E4-CE133EC8819A.jpegPic 2: The 12 pointer (on the right) and 14.5 pointer (on the left)IMG_2825.jpeg
  2. The second place I went to had a rounded 4 prong option but I don’t love the how the profile of the setting looks. And when I put it in, the setting looked taller than the ones I tried from the first place so it didn’t look refined. Pic 3, 4, 5: 14 pointers from 2nd place. I’m pinching it in the back to adjust the length to my wrist. IMG_2968.jpegIMG_2975.jpegIMG_3076.jpeg
  3. Most bracelets that I have seen have connecting hinges that connect to the bottom of each link. One “premium” one that is offered from the first place doesn’t seem to have that piece, so I’m curious what that means in terms id durability, movement, and flipping. @Karl_K mentioned on another thread that the way the four prong bracelet from Aaron & Co. is joined is by a wire pulled through to each link and then soldered. Is it best for bracelets to have both the hinges and this wire? Pic 6: “Premium” option from first place. Bottom of the each link do not have connecting hinge.673ABC18-5D2D-4CE6-BB59-8E3BEEB34C9A.jpeg
  4. What would cause the bracelet to flip or would prevent it from flipping?
  5. As I try on more bracelets, what are some tell tale signs of a poorly constructed tennis bracelet compared to one that is well built and made to last?


From my research here on PS, I am interested in this one from Benjamin & Co. https://www.benjamincompany.com/bracelets/tennis-bracelets/Four-Prong-Classic-Tennis-Bracelet.aspx or this one from Aaron & Son https://catalog.aaronandson.com/mountings/product/sb845/ but I’m not sure if any PS’ers own of any these specific ones to give their input on them.
Pic 7: Benjamin&Co IMG_3217.jpeg
Pic 8: Aaron&Son
IMG_3216.jpeg



The bracelet @Alybird shared in another thread is my inspo bracelet!


For those who have read this far into my ramblings, thank you! I appreciate any guidance, thoughts, or personal experiences! I apologize if anything comes up looking wonky because I’m posting this from my phone. Thanks in advance!
 
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If given a choice I stay away from this design.
Notice the L shaped part that is an ear on the link that is pinned into the next link.
They are never very well fit and tend to wear.
What I prefer is a bar with a pin on both sides connecting the links and 2 bars between each link is even better.
BraceletLink.jpg
 
Size is really personal preference so i am no help there.
 
Karl_K said:
If given a choice I stay away from this design.
Notice the L shaped part that is an ear on the link that is pinned into the next link.
They are never very well fit and tend to wear.
What I prefer is a bar with a pin on both sides connecting the links and 2 bars between each link is even better.
BraceletLink.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you Karl for your response! I think I see what you mean. So the example you shared has no wire that runs through. Is that what you mean? The Aaron &Co one looks like it has the same L part to connect to the next link but has the wire running through. Does that make it better?

As for the “Premium” setting in picture 6, there isn’t that connecting part at the bottom. So I assume it connects from a wire in the middle. Any thoughts on potential pros and cons of this? I’m asking for better pictures, so hopefully I’ll have a better idea how it’s constructed.
 
Picture 8 is the same design as the sample I posted.
Yes there is one pin per link holding them together.
Not sure about the others.
 
Karl_K said:
If given a choice I stay away from this design.
Notice the L shaped part that is an ear on the link that is pinned into the next link.
They are never very well fit and tend to wear.
What I prefer is a bar with a pin on both sides connecting the links and 2 bars between each link is even better.
BraceletLink.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi Karl,
I am confused - are you saying the image you posted is a bad type? Do you have examples of what you prefer?
 
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Reactions: Ann
Hiya!!

I am thrilled for your tennis bracelet journey. My bracelet is 3.2mm and I am fairly certain the setting is the Benjamin Co. "Timeless Dreams Tennis Bracelet" setting, as you can see the roundness in each individual mounting.

I still love my bracelet and I think it's the perfect size. I stopped wearing it for a while in favor of a simple gold cuff but recently, I've been wearing it just by itself every day. It's so sparkly, classic and elegant. Sometimes the diamonds will catch the light a certain way and I'll look down and still be blown away. Personally, I haven't desired to go bigger. (I know, crazy, right?!?! Haha.) That being said, I absolutely *love* seeing big fantastic bling on some of the ladies here. Make the decision for what works best for you!

I think it's because I tend to be minimal with my jewelry; I have an active lifestyle with two dogs and make art in my studio. There have been a few times where I've bumped or scraped the bracelet against the edge of a table or the wall. One thing to consider for tennis bracelet mountings is that the bigger you go, the higher the relief of the metal will be on your wrist. Aesthetically, this may or may align with your preferences. Practically, a bracelet with a higher relief has more of a chance to bump into things and will affect how a stack lays if you plan to wear it stacked most of the time.

One thing to consider too while stacking is that diamonds are hard so the sizing of the bracelet has to be just right so that the slack doesn't cause the diamonds to rub against your other pieces too much. Something else to consider is that Cartier pieces are 18k and likely you'll be getting a 14k setting or Platinum for durability. This may or may not be something that matters to you; Personally I am in the devil-may-care, wear what you like whenever you like camp, but I know some people prefer to keep their pieces more on the pristine end.

My bracelet is about 1.25 cm longer than my wrist measurement (about .5 inches), so it's relatively tight fitting, which I prefer. A good rule of thumb that my jeweler recommended as a starting point for comfort is around 2cm longer than your wrist measurement just under your wrist bone.

As for size, your mileage may vary! Both of the options that you presented look good. You are considering a range that is visually impactful while still being very tasteful and universally appropriate. I think the most important thing within the size range that you're considering is to get the best quality diamonds you can afford. I recommend Grunberger as they have super ideal cut hearts & arrows melee. (If anyone has any other suggestions, please toss them out here! This is the only company that I am aware of that has super ideal cut earth-mined melee at the moment.) I've never regretted paying the premium for ideal cut melee. When they're set in a line bracelet, it just throws off an extraordinary light quality.

Enjoy the process!! ^_^
 
Last edited:
I wanted a rounded look as well, here is my post.
When looking at the settings I felt that one with a rounded base gave a rounded look.

Izzy70

Thread 'Tennis bracelet with a 4 prong rounded setting'

I am looking to purchase a tennis bracelet, a small carat size around 5ctw from WF. I am not in the US so our jewellery sizes are more conservative. This would also be a day to day bracelet, I don’t save anything for best!
It will be a custom order and I prefer this first setting, with the rounded stone style as I do not like the straight line style. Whilst googling, I have found a tulip setting the second one. I like an unusual setting but is it really worth it on a bracelet? The tulip setting was from a jewellery findings online store.
IMG_2802.jpeg
  • Like
 
OP, I am not familiar with some of your measurements. How many total carat weight should the bracelet be? Do you have a budget?
 
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WillyDiamond said:
OP, I am not familiar with some of your measurements. How many total carat weight should the bracelet be? Do you have a budget?
Click to expand...

A lady entered a jeweler's and said "You sold my husband a diamond tennis bracelet yesterday but it's the wrong size".
"No problem madam, we can adjust the size".
"Oh, you don't understand, you sold him a 5 carat size, and I take a 10 carat size"
 
Alybird said:
Hiya!!

I am thrilled for your tennis bracelet journey. My bracelet is 3.2mm and I am fairly certain the setting is the Benjamin Co. "Timeless Dreams Tennis Bracelet" setting, as you can see the roundness in each individual mounting.

I still love my bracelet and I think it's the perfect size. I stopped wearing it for a while in favor of a simple gold cuff but recently, I've been wearing it just by itself every day. It's so sparkly, classic and elegant. Sometimes the diamonds will catch the light a certain way and I'll look down and still be blown away. Personally, I haven't desired to go bigger. (I know, crazy, right?!?! Haha.) That being said, I absolutely *love* seeing big fantastic bling on some of the ladies here. Make the decision for what works best for you!

I think it's because I tend to be minimal with my jewelry; I have an active lifestyle with two dogs and make art in my studio. There have been a few times where I've bumped or scraped the bracelet against the edge of a table or the wall. One thing to consider for tennis bracelet mountings is that the bigger you go, the higher the relief of the metal will be on your wrist. Aesthetically, this may or may align with your preferences. Practically, a bracelet with a higher relief has more of a chance to bump into things and will affect how a stack lays if you plan to wear it stacked most of the time.

One thing to consider too while stacking is that diamonds are hard so the sizing of the bracelet has to be just right so that the slack doesn't cause the diamonds to rub against your other pieces too much. Something else to consider is that Cartier pieces are 18k and likely you'll be getting a 14k setting or Platinum for durability. This may or may not be something that matters to you; Personally I am in the devil-may-care, wear what you like whenever you like camp, but I know some people prefer to keep their pieces more on the pristine end.

My bracelet is about 1.25 cm longer than my wrist measurement (about .5 inches), so it's relatively tight fitting, which I prefer. A good rule of thumb that my jeweler recommended as a starting point for comfort is around 2cm longer than your wrist measurement just under your wrist bone.

As for size, your mileage may vary! Both of the options that you presented look good. You are considering a range that is visually impactful while still being very tasteful and universally appropriate. I think the most important thing within the size range that you're considering is to get the best quality diamonds you can afford. I recommend Grunberger as they have super ideal cut hearts & arrows melee. (If anyone has any other suggestions, please toss them out here! This is the only company that I am aware of that has super ideal cut earth-mined melee at the moment.) I've never regretted paying the premium for ideal cut melee. When they're set in a line bracelet, it just throws off an extraordinary light quality.

Enjoy the process!! ^_^
Click to expand...

Thank you for your thoughtful response and suggestions @Alybird ! I do plan on using super ideals from Grunberger as well! I am hoping this is a piece that will stay in my collection for some time so I’d rather invest in the quality.


Your point about the tennis bracelet scratching the Cartier bangle is completely valid. It’s something I have considered too and I may not end up layering the tennis bracelet with the Cartier for that reason. Regardless, one day I could become more comfortable with wearing them together so I’d still like the option to wear them together. I’ve seen someone at work stack her tennis bracelet with the small Cartier Juste Un Clou and the thin Love bangles, and it was a dreamy stack!


Also thank you for pointing out the “Timeless Dreams Tennis Bracelet” SB845. I would have totally missed that! After comparing the site’s model pics it to the “Four Prong Classic Tennis Bracelet” SB369, the Timeless setting does emphasize the roundness better.


I like that your stones’ dimensions are at the top limit that the 3.2mm setting can accommodate. It looks very “full” with minimal metal peeking through from the top view, if that makes sense. I am wondering if I get the 14.5 pointers (3.35mm) in the 3.5mm setting, would I see a thin halo around the perimeter of the stones?


I wish I can find a 3.2mm tennis bracelet in person to try on in person. It looks perfect on you! Your setting enhances the size of the stones really well. I would have thought the stones are bigger than 13 pointers. From your picture, I think the 3.2mm would work for me but I’d hate to be wrong and wish they were bigger on myself after the fact. I like the idea of having the 3.2mm setting because the height of the setting is lower. I worry about bumping it or catching it on sleeves if the setting is higher.


I’m reminding myself to be patient to find the one that I like in the size that I want. You’re right, it should be a process to be enjoyed rather than rushed.
 
Izzy70 said:
I wanted a rounded look as well, here is my post.
When looking at the settings I felt that one with a rounded base gave a rounded look.

Izzy70

Thread 'Tennis bracelet with a 4 prong rounded setting'

I am looking to purchase a tennis bracelet, a small carat size around 5ctw from WF. I am not in the US so our jewellery sizes are more conservative. This would also be a day to day bracelet, I don’t save anything for best!
It will be a custom order and I prefer this first setting, with the rounded stone style as I do not like the straight line style. Whilst googling, I have found a tulip setting the second one. I like an unusual setting but is it really worth it on a bracelet? The tulip setting was from a jewellery findings online store.
IMG_2802.jpeg
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Click to expand...

Thank you for sharing your post @Izzy70 ! What an interesting turn of events but I’m so happy you found the setting you love! It’s stunning and has great visual impact. The NSEW orientation of the prongs emphasizes the roundness really well.

Your post put the Benjamin & Co’s SB871 on my radar as well. I really like the roundness of it but I can’t tell how much of a halo effect there will be, and I can’t decide if I want the halo.
 
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WillyDiamond said:
OP, I am not familiar with some of your measurements. How many total carat weight should the bracelet be? Do you have a budget?
Click to expand...

According to the information I received, the 13-13.5 pointers (3.25mm) will be about 6.40 ctw at 6.5” and 5.9 ctw at 6”. The 14.5 pointers (3.35mm) will be about 6.5 ctw at 6.5” and 5.95 ctw at 6”. So both will be very similar in ctw because I’ll need less stones for the 14.5 pointers. Of course that vary depending on what setting I end up choosing. This was based on the setting I tried on.

My budget isn’t fixed yet because I’m trying to gauge what’s a realistic ballpark to achieve the aesthetic I want. Dangerous approach on the wallet? Maybe lol
 
Garry H (Cut Nut) said:
Hi Karl,
I am confused - are you saying the image you posted is a bad type? Do you have examples of what you prefer?
Click to expand...

Wait Gary, I just realized after skimming through the threads again that it was actually you who pointed out the construction of the setting with the wiring coming through and soldering it individually. So sorry I missed that That comment got me thinking about what makes a setting a high quality setting vs an inferior one. And how can one tell upfront when I’m trying them on in person? Hence the rabbit hole of thoughts on the technical aspect of the setting.
 
itzme said:
Thank you for sharing your post @Izzy70 ! What an interesting turn of events but I’m so happy you found the setting you love! It’s stunning and has great visual impact. The NSEW orientation of the prongs emphasizes the roundness really well.

Your post put the Benjamin & Co’s SB871 on my radar as well. I really like the roundness of it but I can’t tell how much of a halo effect there will be, and I can’t decide if I want the halo.
Click to expand...

I have an appt tomorrow with my jeweler to reset my bracelet. I have quite a few classic 4-prong mounting examples to show him. One being the Timeless SB845. But you mentioned a "halo". Is that the rounded metal under the diamond? I'm not sure I'd like that. And I'm really concerned about flipping
 
itzme said:
According to the information I received, the 13-13.5 pointers (3.25mm) will be about 6.40 ctw at 6.5” and 5.9 ctw at 6”. The 14.5 pointers (3.35mm) will be about 6.5 ctw at 6.5” and 5.95 ctw at 6”. So both will be very similar in ctw because I’ll need less stones for the 14.5 pointers. Of course that vary depending on what setting I end up choosing. This was based on the setting I tried on.

My budget isn’t fixed yet because I’m trying to gauge what’s a realistic ballpark to achieve the aesthetic I want. Dangerous approach on the wallet? Maybe lol
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I do not know where you are located. Have you contacted 2 vendors on this forum, WF and BGD? They are pretty compatible in price. As I had posted in the past, I worked with Leslie at BGD and the Bride is very happy! I personally like less prongs, this shows more of the stone, which is I think what you want. My wife’s setting is 3 prongs. I will try to post a picture or two. 990257407269
 
itzme said:
Wait Gary, I just realized after skimming through the threads again that it was actually you who pointed out the construction of the setting with the wiring coming through and soldering it individually. So sorry I missed that That comment got me thinking about what makes a setting a high quality setting vs an inferior one. And how can one tell upfront when I’m trying them on in person? Hence the rabbit hole of thoughts on the technical aspect of the setting.
Click to expand...

I think I'm confused not too, haha!
 
Ann said:
I have an appt tomorrow with my jeweler to reset my bracelet. I have quite a few classic 4-prong mounting examples to show him. One being the Timeless SB845. But you mentioned a "halo". Is that the rounded metal under the diamond? I'm not sure I'd like that. And I'm really concerned about flipping
Click to expand...

Excited for you and anxious to see what settings you/he come up with for your new bracelet!
 
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Reactions: Ann
MissGotRocks said:
Excited for you and anxious to see what settings you/he come up with for your new bracelet!
Click to expand...

Thank you. I'm worried about getting the best, strongest setting I can. And of course love it! I'm confused about how the setting links together so I'm trying to reread this thread and my older one and see if I can absorb it all.
 
Ann said:
I have an appt tomorrow with my jeweler to reset my bracelet. I have quite a few classic 4-prong mounting examples to show him. One being the Timeless SB845. But you mentioned a "halo". Is that the rounded metal under the diamond? I'm not sure I'd like that. And I'm really concerned about flipping
Click to expand...

Hi Ann! Please update what you find out from your jeweler. I’m excited for your trip! Hopefully some of the mounting examples are popular enough and you can see some in person! And yes, for the SB845, I’m worried if my stone is on the smaller end of the range the setting can hold, I would see the rounded metal peek through. I think it should be subtle enough that it’s not a problem.

Another one that I’m now curious about is the SB871 that I learned about from Izzy’s thread. It has the rounded look I like but from the stock picture, it looks like there’s a gap between the girdle and the setting, and it might show that halo effect as well? The picture of RosieR wearing hers is really beautiful, and I wonder if any of it is appreciable in person.
 
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WillyDiamond said:
Thanks for the response. I do not know where you are located. Have you contacted 2 vendors on this forum, WF and BGD? They are pretty compatible in price. As I had posted in the past, I worked with Leslie at BGD and the Bride is very happy! I personally like less prongs, this shows more of the stone, which is I think what you want. My wife’s setting is 3 prongs. I will try to post a picture or two. IMG_0184.jpegimg_5369.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you WillyDiamond for sharing! This is a BGD masterpiece. I’m sure the shine from the stones is remarkable! I like how this setting highlights the stones. Right now, I think I prefer the 4 prong (but without the squareish look) lol. If I change my mind, I’d definitely come back to consider this setting.
 
itzme said:
Thank you WillyDiamond for sharing! This is a BGD masterpiece. I’m sure the shine from the stones is remarkable! I like how this setting highlights the stones. Right now, I think I prefer the 4 prong (but without the squareish look) lol. If I change my mind, I’d definitely come back to consider this setting.
Click to expand...

There has to be a perfect four prong, rounded look bracelet! I think the prong placement is very important on a four prong - not in the ‘corners’ although a round stone has no corners (does that make sense?). I also think the correct space between diamonds is important too. If there is little space, I don’t think you get the full effect of a round stone. Just thinking out loud here . . .
 
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MissGotRocks said:
There has to be a perfect four prong, rounded look bracelet! I think the prong placement is very important on a four prong - not in the ‘corners’ although a round stone has no corners (does that make sense?). I also think the correct space between diamonds is important too. If there is little space, I don’t think you get the full effect of a round stone. Just thinking out loud here . . .
Click to expand...

I've looked at sooo many round mountings. It's really tough to know exactly what you are looking at when it's online. I might get my jeweler to bring a few options so I can visually see them and have peace of mind when I make a final choice.
 
itzme said:
Thank you WillyDiamond for sharing! This is a BGD masterpiece. I’m sure the shine from the stones is remarkable! I like how this setting highlights the stones. Right now, I think I prefer the 4 prong (but without the squareish look) lol. If I change my mind, I’d definitely come back to consider this setting.
Click to expand...

I assume BGD could also do 4-prong for you.
Good luck and post the finished product.
 
Can I get some opinions on this setting? This is a handmade, or hand assembled, setting offered by one of vendors I’m working with. It doesn’t have the hook/hinge at the base of setting, but it looks like it has hinges in between each individual setting. Structurally, it looks like it should be a sturdy setting. Wondering if I should be concerned of anything that I might not be thinking of. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to see it in person as these are made to order and they don’t have one currently on hand. The pictures are directly from their manufacturer, so I don’t know the size of the stones. It looks very well polished and the metalwork looks dainty.

IMG_3408.jpegIMG_3409.jpeg
 
itzme said:
Can I get some opinions on this setting? This is a handmade, or hand assembled, setting offered by one of vendors I’m working with. It doesn’t have the hook/hinge at the base of setting, but it looks like it has hinges in between each individual setting. Structurally, it looks like it should be a sturdy setting. Wondering if I should be concerned of anything that I might not be thinking of. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to see it in person as these are made to order and they don’t have one currently on hand. The pictures are directly from their manufacturer, so I don’t know the size of the stones. It looks very well polished and the metalwork looks dainty.

IMG_3408.jpegIMG_3409.jpeg
Click to expand...

From the pictures, it looks very nice. A shame they don’t have pictures to share of the bracelet draped over an arm. What is the cut quality/color/clarity of the diamonds they will be using?
 
They did send me a video of it made with 12 pointers, but I don't know how to upload videos here. I tried taking screenshots from the video, but it really doesn't do it any justice. I was told, in terms of the roundness of the stones, it is quite similar to the bracelets I tried on (Pic #2 from original post where I tried on the 12 pointers and the 14.5 pointers).

I uploaded some shoddy screenshots from the video.IMG_3460.jpegIMG_3459.jpegIMG_3458.jpeg
 
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