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Having a ring made

seaurchin

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I'm wondering if it would be feasible to have a gold ring made that had a halo and several interchangeable lab stones that were maybe 4-6 carats each. Any thoughts on details and/or some idea of what it would cost or anything else? :)
 
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Bron357

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I imagine you intend to bezel or claw set each lab stone and have a clip post or screw post (like how earrings stay on) that can go into the centre of the setting and be “clipped” or “screwed” to keep it in place.
To accomodate any sort of holding mechanism the height of the ring will need to be high enough to fit the mechanism and also not dig into your finger underneath.
You also need to do an “air halo” gap to ensure each centre gem fits inside the halo.
I think it’s a great concept but I imagine the expense will be high. Each gemstone will need to be same shape and size and require an individual settings to be made. While your lab gem might cost $100, each setting could be closer to $1,000 plus another few thousand for the ring.
You could just start out with two and funds permitting increase your collection of centre gems over time.
 

seaurchin

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Thanks, Bron. I was hoping to have it designed so the setting itself has the only metal, with the stones themselves popped in and out as-is. Otherwise, as you say, it would probably be pricey and therefore there wouldn't be much benefit to it. I was thinking of lab stones since they could be cut precisely to fit without expensive waste.

Maybe something like the example below (though I don't really care for this ring itself) - Sorry the first pic is so large. I have a new computer and don't know how to re-size it.
interchangeable ring1.jpg
 

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dk168

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I looked into this in the past with CS in mind.

I don't think I have uploaded an inspiration pic onto PS and do not have one on my phone.

However the design I have in mind has halo fixed to a plain wide shank, for the interchangeable centre bezel set CSs about 9mm each to be screwed into the centre.

I have not worked how to take the centre stone out, however it would probably involve a tiny suction cup or using Blue Tack.

The original inspection design has each CS bezel set in a halo, for each halo/CS combination to be interchangeable and screwed onto a thick wide plain shank.

I did not like that idea, as I would worry about the halo/CS combo being detached from the shank.

Some form of fixing mechanism would be needed, like a tiny nut on the underside.

However, having a separate halo/CS combination made is costly (I was planning on 3, all inexpensive stones from Jeff D).

The project stalled as I decided to spend money on setting my nicer stones instead.

DK :))
 

dk168

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Here are two inspirational pics I had uploaded to PS in the past.

I believe the first one has the centre CS held down by a cap with the halo, by means of screwing the cap in place onto the shank.

556444

The second one is the one I had in mind, for a halo cup to be fixed to the shank, and the CS to be screwed into the centre. This way, movement of the centre CS would be minimised.

574078

DK :))
 

seaurchin

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Thanks DK. Much appreciated!

So, I'm thinking it would have to have a bezel and that a round stone would work best. Still looking at ring designs online because Christmas is coming. :)

I wonder why I don't see many rings like this though, when it seems such a neat-o idea. Hmm...
 

dk168

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Thanks DK. Much appreciated!

So, I'm thinking it would have to have a bezel and that a round stone would work best. Still looking at ring designs online because Christmas is coming. :)

I wonder why I don't see many rings like this though, when it seems such a neat-o idea. Hmm...
I believe they exist as costume jewellery, as it would be easier/cheaper to cut the centre stones to match each other, than to have diamonds/CSs cut to the same dimensions.

It would be a nightmare to try and match CSs due to their differences in refractive index resulting in different depths.

Hence I have given up on the idea.

DK :))
 

seaurchin

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I believe they exist as costume jewellery, as it would be easier/cheaper to cut the centre stones to match each other, than to have diamonds/CSs cut to the same dimensions.

It would be a nightmare to try and match CSs due to their differences in refractive index resulting in different depths.

Hence I have given up on the idea.

DK :))
Yeah, it seems it would only make sense to do it with lab created stones so they could all be cut the same. If that's what you mean?
 

seaurchin

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Maybe something like this, and have the whole top flip up. I wonder if that is do-able.

interchangeable ring35.jpg
 

dk168

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Yeah, it seems it would only make sense to do it with lab created stones so they could all be cut the same. If that's what you mean?
Yup, to make it work, they all have to be in the same shape and dimensions.

It is less critical for the screw-on design for each stone to have its own basket etc...

DK :))
 

dk168

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Remember the ringdant that @prs had made for his wife? The whole piece somehow clips on & off the ring .
Maybe such a mechanism can work?
For a convertible ring pendant similar in design to PRS's, the whole head clips onto the shank, which means the shared component is the shank.

The shank can be very elaborate, e.g. paved with diamonds etc...

However, depending on the number of interchangeable heads, it can be quite costly to make.

The good thing is that, once the shank is made, as long as the bench keeps the details of its measurements etc., then more heads with different centre stones can be added at a later date.

Here is an example of a simple shank (apologies for the fuzzy picture):

RingPendant.PNG

DK :))
 

Daisys and Diamonds

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Thanks DK. Much appreciated!

So, I'm thinking it would have to have a bezel and that a round stone would work best. Still looking at ring designs online because Christmas is coming. :)

I wonder why I don't see many rings like this though, when it seems such a neat-o idea. Hmm...
People must have done it in the past with real stones
a number of pieces in different royal collections have interchangeable options so i don't see why this would not have inspired others who had the means to do this with their own jewlery
 

seaurchin

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I have drawings on the way, whoopie!

It will be different from the pic I posted above, more like a flower with 10mm round interchangeable center stones and a dozen round stones surrounding it, larger than the ones in the earlier pic above and individually bezeled. Yellow gold center bezel and band, white gold bezels around the clear surrounding stones. Some of the inspiration rings I saw were labelled "art deco cluster ring."

One thing I'm worried about is if the center bezel will have to be too prominent for the look I hope for, in order to keep the interchangeable stones in place. Also, I want the ring to be large enough to be a little showy but not too large on my man hands and I'm not sure exactly where the line is between the two or how much extra width the bezels add.

Another issue is what kind of interchangeable stones to use, CZ or lab created gems. For the surrounding clear stones, probably not mined diamonds (but maybe. I haven't checked the price yet because I'm not sure exactly what sized stones). Or lab diamonds, synthetic moissanite or cubic zirconia.

For the center stones, I was thinking about getting precision cut lab gems but that would be several hundred dollars for each stone and I couldn't get all of them at once so maybe not. I think this will be more a "fun" ring even though custom made.

Thoughts?
 
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dk168

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IMHO, for surrounding stones, if budget allows, go for lab/MMD.

If the price is too expensive, then consider Moissys then CZ.

For the centre stone, I would probably go for different colours of lab Sapphires or YAGs, as the roughs come in a variety of colours.

I would stick with just one type of gems in different colours as their refractive index will be the same.

I would advise contacting Gary B at Finewater Gems to see what he has in stock for lab roughs, as I know he has different colours in YAGs when I made my enquiry with him about a Paraiba YAG about a month or two ago.

His price for my YAG was very reasonable. ;-)

What fun!!!

DK :))
 

seaurchin

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Thanks for your thoughts, DK. Much appreciated.

I think I'll go somewhere in between "fun" ring and something nicer. The setting will be 14k. And I could pay more for the surrounding stones now, since like the gold, they're permanent. Then get a few CZ interchangeable stones because I can always upgrade those later on. For ex. Finewater has a gorgeous lab sapphire on their site for about $400 but a CZ of that size is only about $8. I don't really have a budget, just don't want to annoy the husband too much at once haha. A steady stream of minor annoyances over many years is much more fun. :)
 

seaurchin

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Oops. I just re-read this thread and understand better now what you meant about refractive index, DK. In other words, I can’t just assume lab stones would later fit where cubic zirconias fit...
 

Sibsgirl

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Ehinger-Schwarz (charlotte1876.com) has been producing these types of pieces for a very long time using a modified watch-pin mechanism. They offer precious stones, semi-precious, gold, stainless steel, wood, etc., as inserts. You might take a look at their system and options. I've worn their jewelry for right around 20 years, and it holds up well.
 

dk168

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@seaurchin unless CZ and the lab stones you have in future are cut to the same dimensions, then the setting made for CZ will not work with the lab stones.

The refractive index plays a big part in how a stone is cut to get the best result, hence the issues with windows - less deep means bigger face up for the same size etc...

DK :))
 

seaurchin

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Okay, now I need to pick one type of lab stone for the interchangeable center stones. Any thoughts on lab sapphire vs. YAG vs. spinel or other? (I think cubic zirconia is ruled out now). It looks like some types of lab stones might not be made as large as 10mm, maybe?

I'm thinking of getting two lab stones, then adding on more later.
 

seaurchin

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dk168

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That ring is rather cute, thanks for sharing!

I would opt for either lab Sapphires or Spinels for their higher hardness, due to the risk of abrasion when being placed in the cage/basket.

I personally would opt for a royal blue, neon or bubblegum pink, neon yellow and purple, may be a green of some sort too.

BTW, in case you have not seen it, Gary of Finewater Gems listed an Asscher cut medium/royal blue lab Sapphire on his site, and it was sold by the time I saw it.

However he said he has more materials available when I wrote to him and said how nice it is etc...

I may ask him about the cost and what other colours are available etc., as this could be a fun project and I have always wanted an interchangeable ring.

I hope you would not mind me being a copy cat!

DK :))
 

seaurchin

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Not at all, DK. I love it when someone else likes my idea (though I know you were thinking about it before anyway). Also, thanks for all your help. :)
 

dk168

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Thanks for that.

What shape are you going with?

I like cushions or rounds.

I am thinking why spend more in replicating this, why not just get a set and save money?

DK :lol-2:
 

seaurchin

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I'm planning on round center stones (10mm) surrounded by round clear stones, so a pretty basic design.
 

dk168

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Ooo, I was wrong about the hardness of YAG being softer than Sapphire and Spinel, sorry!

It sits between the two at 8.5 when I Googled it.

DK :))
 

dk168

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I have e-mailed Gary to enquire about having a set of lab stones cut in the same shape (OEC round or square cushion) and dimensions, in the colours of the rainbow (not necessarily all 7 colours) with bubblegum/deep pink instead of red.

I have asked the bench I use in China whether it would be possible to have a ring as well as a pendnat setting made, using either Moissy or lab diamond melees.

This is a 9mm Amethyst from JD that I love for its shape and cutting, and I love this setting as the bezel follows the shape of the stone.

Example of Cut.jpg

I have asked Gary if he could cut square cushions like this, and the bench whether it would be possible to have settings made so that the centre stone is set in 45 deg angle.

Fun project, and thanks for igniting my enthusiasm in this again!

DK :))
 

dk168

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Oops, I am hijacking your thread, I shall stop, sorry!

DK :oops2:
 

dk168

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Oh no, don't stop. The more, the merrier! Can't wait for updates and to see your final ringdant. :)

What kind of stone are you using?
OK, thanks! :))

Don't know yet, waiting for Gary to respond. I am leaning towards Sapphires as I believe YAGs do not have the same variety in colours.

DK :))
 
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