Handmade or cast for bezel ring setting??

[stargurl78]

I have a asscher peridot cut by Gary Braun that I want to put in a double bezel ring setting. I am leaning towards working with Julia Kay Taylor but I'm just curious what vendors all of you would suggest for this project. I have seen many beautiful pieces on here from JKT but I know I've seen a few very nice bezeled asschers from Whiteflash and BGD on here as well. So that leads me to my next question - what are the pros/cons to both handmade and cast bezel settings? Is one more pricey than the other? Is one considered stronger than the other? Any other things I should take into consideration?

Thanks in advance! Here is a link to the peridot:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/7-8mm-of-green-goodness-asscher-peridot-is-here.144655/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/7-8mm-of-green-goodness-asscher-peridot-is-here.144655/[/URL]

 

[pixies]

I posted this in CS but I don't know which you'll be checking so I thought I'd post it here too:

I think there are jewelers of differing calibers in hand made and cast. When I got a quote on an 18kt wg bezel ring from BGD it was in the $1600 range. I got quotes from Single Stone and Leon and they were in the mid 2k range for platinum (a few hundred less for wg @ SS).

I went with JbEG. Their price were between BGD and Leon. My ring was CAD/CAST. It turned out perfect. I think it really depends on the designer. If someone has a style that speaks to you, I'd go with them as long as their pieces have fine finishing to them. Some cast rings may be clunky, some handmade rings may be unsymmetrical. Browse the portfolios and let the work speak for itself.

JKT does a lot of modern organic pieces. If you like something unique to her I'd pick her. I love the stacking rings she's produced and those leaf bezel rings are nice. I'd expect a more expensive setting from BGD/WF to have a finer finish. There are things I'd forgive a RHR that I wouldn't an engagement ring especially at different price points. Some of the JKT rings seem to have space between the bezel and stone (not a perfect fit). Those are the only things I'd point out and that's just being nit-picky. I'd still purchase a piece from her. She works with silver which is a plus if you are trying to keep the price of a project down. Her designs are interesting. Many other pros. I just wouldn't expect the finish of a Leon or Single Stone even though all three designers are hand made... it's not comparing apples to apples. Same with BGD/WF and JKT. BGD/WF are high quality cad/cast with different styles (while JKT is hand made).

I see you want a double bezel... Are you wanting any shank or profile detail or just a double bezel and plain shank with an open gallery? If I had a better feel for what you want I could give recommendations then. Is it a piece you'll wear every day?

I just think they do very different things and aren't really comparable. That probably doesn't help much

 

[NOYFB]

I can only speak from my personal experience --> I recently had my ring reset into a bezel by a local jeweler (handmade) and it turned out pretty crooked and not "finished" looking. My stone is now with BGD getting CAD/cast reset, and although this was more expensive, it is well worth it to me to have something that looks perfect and polished. I am not familiar with JKT's work, so I can't comment on them, but everything I have seen BGD or WF do has been absolutely beautiful. I personally will never get anything handmade again.

Can't wait to see what you decide to do. That stone is amazing!

 

[Gypsy]

Well, I have bezel work by both BGD and JKT.

For an asscher I would go with CAD and cast. The to the mico-milimeter preciseness of the bezel of an eight sided stone is really best suited, IMO, to a CAD and cast. BGD's finish work is significantly finer than 99.9% of the jewelers out their and the relative delicacy of the designs the can get out of CAD and CAST puts them at the top of the CAD and cast heap for me. I would also look up the designer of Blueroses' setting, she has an octagonal double bezel that is beautiful.

JKT's work is lovely, but as someone said.. organic and very creative and artistic, not as to the point precise. There are designs I would absolutely choose her to do make me over a CAD and cast designer... but an octagonal bezel is emphatically not one of them.

There is a huge price difference between JKT and the CAD and CAST designers most recommended on here. And there is the metal issue as well (JKT will use silver) so before you decide to go that route I would definitely make sure the investment of funds is worth it to you.

 

[pixies]

Well, I have bezel work by both BGD and JKT.

For an asscher I would go with CAD and cast. The to the mico-milimeter preciseness of the bezel of an eight sided stone is really best suited, IMO, to a CAD and cast. BGD's finish work is significantly finer than 99.9% of the jewelers out their and the relative delicacy of the designs the can get out of CAD and CAST puts them at the top of the CAD and cast heap for me. I would also look up the designer of Blueroses' setting, she has an octagonal double bezel that is beautiful.

JKT's work is lovely, but as someone said.. organic and very creative and artistic, not as to the point precise. There are designs I would absolutely choose her to do make me over a CAD and cast designer... but an octagonal bezel is emphatically not one of them.

There is a huge price difference between JKT and the CAD and CAST designers most recommended on here. And there is the metal issue as well (JKT will use silver) so before you decide to go that route I would definitely make sure the investment of funds is worth it to you.

Ditto to Gypsy's post. I think for a simple setting the execution needs to be really precise to make it SHINE.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

There are fine handmade settings as well...such as Leon Mege and Maytal Hannah, although that might not be the route to go for what you want. But I would never spend $1000-2000 on a setting for a relatively inexpensive stone. I think you need to decide on the setting budget and then get recommendations.

Your stone is gorgeous!

 

[Gypsy]

There are fine handmade settings as well...such as Leon Mege and Maytal Hannah, although that might not be the route to go for what you want. But I would never spend $1000-2000 on a setting for a relatively inexpensive stone. I think you need to decide on the setting budget and then get recommendations.

Your stone is gorgeous!

I feel this way too, which is why I cautioned you about the cost of CAD and CAST compared to JKT. But I know, from what I've seen on the CS board, that many feel that the look and wearability of the total finished piece is worth more to them than the price of any one piece relative to another. If you are one of those people, then it might be completely worth it to you to spend the money on the nicest bezel setting you can buy. And your stone is stunning.

 

[stargurl78]

Thank you all for your comments, this is very helpful.

Pixies - You make a good point about how comparing the different PS vendors is not like comparing apples to apples. With each I will get something different, so it really just depends on what is important to me. I will contact JBEG for a quote, I do like their pieces (and I LOVE your new 3-stone ring, absolutely gorgeous!). I'm guessing that I won't afford a Leon, although I guess it doesn't hurt to ask. I've emailed him with questions about 2 of his bands before though, and he doesn't respond (but that's a whole other topic ).

I don't really want anything leafy or organic looking, I want something very simple to really show off the asscher. I like these rings by JKT, so it would be something similar to this style:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/63957174/faceted-opal-open-gallery-ring

http://www.juliakaytaylor.com/rings/aquammf1.JPG

I know that I am picky about imperfections though, so I'm wondering if she wouldn't be the best way to go. Also, this wouldn't be an everyday ring. And I pretty much only wear my rings at work (where I am on a computer most of the day) and when I go out. I take them off as soon as I get home.

Lil Misfit - thank you for your compliment, I love the stone too! And thank you sharing your experience.

Gypsy - You are right about needing the bezel to be precise for the shape of this stone, I am starting to lean more towards going CAD and cast. I will definitely check out Blueroses' ring, I don't think I've seen it yet.

Diamondseeker - I know that I don't want to go TOO high on the price, and I did get a quote for JKT a few months ago but with the wedding planning I sort of forgot about the project. I will send a few emails this week for some quotes to get a better idea of what I can expect to spend.

Thank you all so much for your posts!

 

[heliotrope]

thought I'd chime in - as I have a double bezel in white gold from JKT

I am pretty fussy and wanted the finest and most delicate finish I could get - which was a pretty tough ask - considering I was demanding a bezel for a princess goshenite (clear beryl)

I was very clear about what I wanted and was willing to pay for the palladium white gold as Julia advised that would be the easiest for her to work with and would have a more refined finish than Argentium (which I do have pieces in)

I also let her finish the piece when she was ready and did not put a deadline on the project to ensure the job would not be rushed

I am pleased with the finished piece and as an owner of JM bezel rings and BGD bezel earrings - I will be the first to admit I spend hours staring at my jewels looking at the details

which ever way you go - have fun on the journey in the creation of your stunning ring

 

[stargurl78]

thought I'd chime in - as I have a double bezel in white gold from JKT

I am pretty fussy and wanted the finest and most delicate finish I could get - which was a pretty tough ask - considering I was demanding a bezel for a princess goshenite (clear beryl)

I was very clear about what I wanted and was willing to pay for the palladium white gold as Julia advised that would be the easiest for her to work with and would have a more refined finish than Argentium (which I do have pieces in)

I also let her finish the piece when she was ready and did not put a deadline on the project to ensure the job would not be rushed

I am pleased with the finished piece and as an owner of JM bezel rings and BGD bezel earrings - I will be the first to admit I spend hours staring at my jewels looking at the details

which ever way you go - have fun on the journey in the creation of your stunning ring

Thank you for your post heliotrope! I am fussy too, but I do think I would be pleased with a piece from her, I really admire her work. And I am in no rush, I just want to ensure the piece will be exactly what I want, so if it means I have to wait then so be it. I didn't even think of doing it in palladium but I'm glad you mentioned that because its definitely an option. Hmm... I think I will get in touch with a few vendors today for quotes and go from there. The quote I received from her was fairly reasonable I thought, so I may end up going that route. Thanks again