Gut check on local jeweler

[Civnhasy]

Hi PSers,

I am about to purchase a strand from Takahashi (very excited! they are wonderful!) and am asking for them to be sent unstrung. I am also getting two pearls to be made into earrings.

I am a relative newbie to the jewelry world...pearls are really my only foray. So I don't have a relationship with a local jeweler, and as much as I've been reading, I'm just not educated enough to know what is true and what is someone trying to blow smoke, and hope you can help me.

I called some local jewelers about knotting and found one who sounded great, reviews great, well established, etc. We had a nice conversation. He asked if I could have Takahashi pre-drill/half-drill holes for the earrings. Takahashi said of course, and asked me to specify the size of drill hole. I had assumed there was a standard size but am realizing that's not the case (and it makes sense that it would depend on the type of post [finding?] I want to use - and I dont yet know what I want). Should also note that these pearls are circled/semi baroque and will be made into dangles so it's not something straightforward like a stud.

I called the jeweler back today for some clarification about drilling. I spoke to someone else this time, and basically got some red flags...first he said that "there absolutely is a standard size [for earrings] and I'm surprised they told you there wasnt" -- but couldn't tell me what size that would be. He more or less admitted I could bring to them to drill, but he would rather the vendor do it in case it chips the nacre (I'm assuming this means they dont do it often and don't want the liability - so yikes, I probably dont want them doing it anyway), and then he shockingly made a xenophobic comment that officially trashed the conversation and future relationship for me.

Got in touch with another local jeweler with good reviews. I casually asked about pre-drilling the pearls for earrings and she affirmed what Takahashi said about needing to know what I wanted before drilling to ensure the hole is the correct size. No hesitation that they could drill the pearls themselves. They will also knot but are a lot more expensive ($7/in vs. $4.50/in at the other place).

There is one more jeweler I will call this afternoon for info.

Anyway, my TLDR questions:

Can you guys affirm my gut that the first jeweler was blowing smoke about a "standard size" for drilling earrings?

Is it a risky thing to have a local jeweler do it when I haven't used them before or they don't specialize in pearls? (again, there was zero hesitation from the second jeweler I spoke with about doing the drilling themselves, but now I'm anxious)

Takahashi can absolutely handle all of the knotting, earring setting, etc but I had read it's advantageous to ship everything unset for customs duties...and when I did the math, it does seem to be cheaper to do it all locally, although at this point the peace of mind might be worth the cost!


Thanks, all!

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

In my experience as a jewelry collector, it is advantageous to have a 'local' jeweler that you nurture a relationship with over time. I would try the confident jeweler.

 

[Civnhasy]

In my experience as a jewelry collector, it is advantageous to have a 'local' jeweler that you nurture a relationship with over time. I would try the confident jeweler.

I agree, this is really what I was hoping to establish. Hoping I can find someone.

 

[Pearlescence]

There isn't a standard size for the pegs for half drilled pearls. Life would be much easier if there were. Most are the same size, then you get that one design which isn't and which brings setting pearls to a halt while you enlarge the hole.
You could of course get T to drill and put the full drills on a temp strand (no duty) and learn how to knot them yourself. As well as setting the earrings.

 

[Civnhasy]

Thank you! It makes perfect sense that it could vary according to what you want and seems like it would be even more risky to have to enlarge after the fact. It's so odd for them to have insisted - I'd rather they just say "we dont feel comfortable drilling pearls" and then I'd find somewhere else to go.

I believe the pearls for the strand at least are already drilled and will just ship on that temp strand. I feel like learning to knot is a rite of passage for folks here! I suspect some day I will learn but for now I'm happy to pay someone for their experience!

 

[Bron357]

Agree, foster a relationship with a competent local jeweller.
In relation to customs, not knowing where you live, check if the rate is lower for gemstones/ pearls as opposed to assembled jewellery. Some origins (here in Aus) have an agreement with certain other countries so the rate is lower. Sometimes it’s different, other times it more the $ value of the item.

 

[Civnhasy]

Agree, foster a relationship with a competent local jeweller.
In relation to customs, not knowing where you live, check if the rate is lower for gemstones/ pearls as opposed to assembled jewellery. Some origins (here in Aus) have an agreement with certain other countries so the rate is lower. Sometimes it’s different, other times it more the $ value of the item.

Thank you! I am in the USA. From what I can read it looks like there is no duty assessed if you buy the pearls loose/unstrung, although I am prepared for anything! LOL I was able to chat with a couple other jewelers today who seem to have a bit more confidence in their ability to drill...or get me to someone who can if they are unable to. Hoping I can find the right fit.

 

[yssie]

Drill hole size will increase with pearl size - but first jeweller wasn’t entirely wrong, 0.8mm is pretty standard for “standard” akoya (not the babies). And 1mm is pretty standard for larger Tahitians or SS. He probably didn’t know what those sizes actually were though - just that when he buys stock findings from Stuller he picks the post weight and pad size and they come with pegs of non-customizable diameter.

Non-rounds can be yucky to drill - they can break or collapse. I would absolutely have Takahashi do any drilling, no reason not to! You could have them half drill to 0.8mm - if the holes need to be widened from there for a particular mount that’s very doable, much easier and much less prone to mishaps than drilling fresh.

The xenophobia - yeah F that.

Drilled and strung on a temp strand = no customs on the goods (FedEx will still charge a brokerage fee for playing the role of import assistant). Just request a temp strand not a finished necklace

But @Civnhasy trust me you def want them to string to a temp before shipping, because that strand is most likely graduated in size over a half mm - you really don’t want to be stuck sorting through a giant pile o’ pearls that are 0.1-0.5mm different in diameter. And whoever you ask to do the stringing won’t want to do that either, unless you’re paying quite a premium for their time!

 

[Civnhasy]

Drill hole size will increase with pearl size - but first jeweller wasn’t entirely wrong, 0.8mm is pretty standard for “standard” akoya (not the babies). And 1mm is pretty standard for larger Tahitians or SS. He probably didn’t know what those sizes actually were though - just that when he buys stock findings from Stuller he picks the post weight and pad size and they come with pegs of non-customizable diameter.

Non-rounds can be yucky to drill - they can break or collapse. I would absolutely have Takahashi do any drilling, no reason not to! You could have them half drill to 0.8mm - if the holes need to be widened from there for a particular mount that’s very doable, much easier and much less prone to mishaps than drilling fresh.

The xenophobia - yeah F that.

Drilled and strung on a temp strand = no customs on the goods (FedEx will still charge a brokerage fee for playing the role of import assistant). Just request a temp strand not a finished necklace

But @Civnhasy trust me you def want them to string to a temp before shipping, because that strand is most likely graduated in size over a half mm - you really don’t want to be stuck sorting through a giant pile o’ pearls that are 0.1-0.5mm different in diameter. And whoever you ask to do the stringing won’t want to do that either, unless you’re paying quite a premium for their time!

Yssie, thank you! Always appreciate your input. That is interesting to hear, that it's easier to enlarge without issue than start fresh! I would have thought that would make it structurally more fragile? It does make sense though that the non-round are harder to drill into, and probably why there was hesitancy (the jeweler's terrible behavior aside).

The bad/good news is that Takahashi did ship last night, undrilled. I had already gone back and forth with them about so many things (in addition to drilling/not drilling the earrings) that I just didn't feel I could take more of their time when they'd already replied their opinion about it (even though I'm sure they would have happily accommodated - certainly one of the challenges in purchasing online/overseas vs in person, though). That said, I did end up speaking with two additional jewelers yesterday afternoon who were a little more reassuring. Both asked me to bring the earring pearls in when I get them so they can assess. Both felt confident it could be done, or they could send me to someone who could. So I might go chat with these places once I receive them to gauge comfort levels. The earrings thankfully are not at a price point that will kill me if something happens to them (not that it won't stab me in the heart a little bit, but it's not, say, a Mikimoto reserve price!). Very good lessons learned here and my hope is that I will come out of this with a local jeweler relationship for long term!

The jewelers I spoke with also both have someone on hand to knot, and Takahashi did send the necklace as a temp strand! Photos attached. Was I planning to eventually get a strand of GSSs? Yes. Was I planning on doing it now? Absolutely not, LOL. But these were just too pretty to pass up at this price point when I saw them on Instagram. And they were a delight to work with. At some point I will want a semi-round strand, but that's for sure an in-person purchase (at a much higher price point, which means I need to wait a bit ).

Appreciate everyone's input! I will keep you posted on how this unfolds.

 

[Pearlescence]

Instead of concentrating on jewellers there are plenty out there who can and do string (often the jeweller will send them your pearls anyway and double the price) so put a bit of work in on google or simply say where you care and hopefully someone will be able to do the stringing and the setting of the earrings.

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Uncertain where OP lives but I know a jeweler here in Wisconsin who can string pearls, he likes stringing pearls, and he'd teach you how. His wife is from Taiwan, he has a long acquaintance with pearls.

 

[Civnhasy]

Thanks @Pearlescence , I've definitely gone down some rabbit holes looking for someone local! There is someone that two of the jewelers outsource to locally but I cannot for the life of me find any info, and even with outsourcing they still charge what I think is a reasonable fee ($4.50/inch). The ones who do it in house are charging about $7/inch which feels a bit pricey comparatively but everyone I've talked to has said their person has 20-30 yrs experience in knotting, so I appreciate the longevity.

@Ibrakeforpossums I wish I were closer!!! That sounds like such an ideal setup! I would love to go to someone who loves and appreciates pearls vs can add it to a list of services they provide.

 

[yssie]

Yssie, thank you! Always appreciate your input. That is interesting to hear, that it's easier to enlarge without issue than start fresh! I would have thought that would make it structurally more fragile? It does make sense though that the non-round are harder to drill into, and probably why there was hesitancy (the jeweler's terrible behavior aside).

The bad/good news is that Takahashi did ship last night, undrilled. I had already gone back and forth with them about so many things (in addition to drilling/not drilling the earrings) that I just didn't feel I could take more of their time when they'd already replied their opinion about it (even though I'm sure they would have happily accommodated - certainly one of the challenges in purchasing online/overseas vs in person, though). That said, I did end up speaking with two additional jewelers yesterday afternoon who were a little more reassuring. Both asked me to bring the earring pearls in when I get them so they can assess. Both felt confident it could be done, or they could send me to someone who could. So I might go chat with these places once I receive them to gauge comfort levels. The earrings thankfully are not at a price point that will kill me if something happens to them (not that it won't stab me in the heart a little bit, but it's not, say, a Mikimoto reserve price!). Very good lessons learned here and my hope is that I will come out of this with a local jeweler relationship for long term!

The jewelers I spoke with also both have someone on hand to knot, and Takahashi did send the necklace as a temp strand! Photos attached. Was I planning to eventually get a strand of GSSs? Yes. Was I planning on doing it now? Absolutely not, LOL. But these were just too pretty to pass up at this price point when I saw them on Instagram. And they were a delight to work with. At some point I will want a semi-round strand, but that's for sure an in-person purchase (at a much higher price point, which means I need to wait a bit ).

Appreciate everyone's input! I will keep you posted on how this unfolds.

I’m so late to respond, those are stunning pearls!! I see why you had to take the shot

Please let us know how you mount them - I want photos of those earrings, especially! I had one thought, with those adorable little nubs on the top - would you consider mounting them upside down? A more casual look. I’m also thinking it be a bit easier to find mountings too, since the bottoms are flatter - more spherical.

 

[Civnhasy]

I’m so late to respond, those are stunning pearls!! I see why you had to take the shot

Please let us know how you mount them - I want photos of those earrings, especially! I had one thought, with those adorable little nubs on the top - would you consider mounting them upside down? A more casual look. I’m also thinking it be a bit easier to find mountings too, since the bottoms are flatter - more spherical.

Ooooh I hadn't thought about that re: earrings! It could definitely work to invert them that way! I have a terrible creative imagination when it comes to things like this . I already have some GSS studs so picked these with the hope of differentiating a little bit. Dangles for sure, but hopefully some I can wear everyday.

And will definitely share photos once everything is complete. The package should arrive today! I was so pleasantly surprised with how quickly they moved through Customs. Can't wait!

 

[Civnhasy]

Pearls have arrived! I'm delighted. It was hard not to speed over to the jewelers and demand they finish everything while I wait. The gold is really lovely, some beautiful rose and green hues. I put them next to my Jewelmer studs and pendant and they hold up well! They do have some blemishes, which I knew going in. But it's amazing what luster can make you overlook! Hope to get to the jeweler tomorrow and will share more photos once everything is finished!

Three cheers for Takahashi, who are just absolute delights to work with. I was anxious ordering from overseas but everything was easy and smooth.

Some photos (of course)...

*************************************

Jewelmer studs and pendant on the right, beautiful sunset light



Outdoor under porch, Jewelmer on the left





Indoor by North facing glass door




Indoor closeup

 

[Civnhasy]

One more update (for now): I have found a jeweler and left my pearls with them today! Went to two places this morning. Realized the first one, while well established with a great reputation, caters more to engagements/diamond crowd. Nice salespeople but just not knowledgeable about pearls (had to keep going to the back to ask the jeweler questions) and it just didn't feel like the right fit. They also told me it would be about 5 weeks bc they outsource the knotting to someone local who is very busy and then they'd need time to add the clasp. And finally, parking for that place is a drag. (hey, convenience matters if you don't love everything else! LOL)

Second place I went to was total opposite - in a strip mall vs. main street downtown, not upscale, more jewelry repair shop than showroom. They were fabulous. The jeweler who also does their knot work came out to chat. When the topic of skyrocketing Akoya prices came up, I knew I had found the right place. Apparently they sell a lot of pearls to high school football players (the benefit of being near a high school!). We talked through clasps, earrings, drilling the pearls, no issues. He told me how he'd do each thing. I got to see some of his knot work, and it's nice! They quoted a 2-week turnaround. We'll see!

Going very simple: the earrings will be made into dangles attached to a lever-back hoop. Interestingly, both he and the other jeweler I went to felt it was better to drill into the cute button top instead of the smooth end (I think bc they were more centered? I forget, but they both called it out). I was starting to love the idea of inverting them, but oh well. And I asked if they could attach an adjustable chain/lobster clasp onto the strand so I can select the length I want depending on my outfit. No problem. All fingers and toes crossed. Excited! Thanks everyone for your suggestions and advice! I'll post pics once they are ready.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

Uncertain where OP lives but I know a jeweler here in Wisconsin who can string pearls, he likes stringing pearls, and he'd teach you how. His wife is from Taiwan, he has a long acquaintance with pearls.

note to self
if im ever in Wisconsin ....

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

i

One more update (for now): I have found a jeweler and left my pearls with them today! Went to two places this morning. Realized the first one, while well established with a great reputation, caters more to engagements/diamond crowd. Nice salespeople but just not knowledgeable about pearls (had to keep going to the back to ask the jeweler questions) and it just didn't feel like the right fit. They also told me it would be about 5 weeks bc they outsource the knotting to someone local who is very busy and then they'd need time to add the clasp. And finally, parking for that place is a drag. (hey, convenience matters if you don't love everything else! LOL)

Second place I went to was total opposite - in a strip mall vs. main street downtown, not upscale, more jewelry repair shop than showroom. They were fabulous. The jeweler who also does their knot work came out to chat. When the topic of skyrocketing Akoya prices came up, I knew I had found the right place. Apparently they sell a lot of pearls to high school football players (the benefit of being near a high school!). We talked through clasps, earrings, drilling the pearls, no issues. He told me how he'd do each thing. I got to see some of his knot work, and it's nice! They quoted a 2-week turnaround. We'll see!

Going very simple: the earrings will be made into dangles attached to a lever-back hoop. Interestingly, both he and the other jeweler I went to felt it was better to drill into the cute button top instead of the smooth end (I think bc they were more centered? I forget, but they both called it out). I was starting to love the idea of inverting them, but oh well. And I asked if they could attach an adjustable chain/lobster clasp onto the strand so I can select the length I want depending on my outfit. No problem. All fingers and toes crossed. Excited! Thanks everyone for your suggestions and advice! I'll post pics once they are ready.

am so happy you found this other place, i had a very bad experience with a main street family jewller who out sauced (they did make it right )
i found a jewlery studio just off the main street and i often see his stringer?/knotter/ working their beside him
your pearls are DDG ! the colour and the luster are fanatstic

looking forward to ear and neck shots

 

[Civnhasy]

Thank you so much! I agree, loved that it was just a humble mom and pop although they seem to do good business! Pics definitely to come!

 

[Civnhasy]

Much to my surprise, I got a call today that the jeweler had already finished! They had said it would be two weeks.

I think he did a fantastic job! The knots are very small and delicate - he clearly paid attention when I showed him what I was looking for! The clasp is nothing special but I'm so delighted by it bc now I can adjust the length according to what I'm wearing. And I love how the earrings turned out as well! No issues drilling them.

Some shots below. I love GSS pearls.

 

[newtojewels]

Much to my surprise, I got a call today that the jeweler had already finished! They had said it would be two weeks.

I think he did a fantastic job! The knots are very small and delicate - he clearly paid attention when I showed him what I was looking for! The clasp is nothing special but I'm so delighted by it bc now I can adjust the length according to what I'm wearing. And I love how the earrings turned out as well! No issues drilling them.

Some shots below. I love GSS pearls.

Oh the necklace is beautiful and the drops look perfect! I'm so glad you find a good local resource!

 

[CMN]

Gorgeous !

 

[Catmom]

So gorgeous!

 

[Civnhasy]

Thank you all so much!

 

[MMtwo]

Much to my surprise, I got a call today that the jeweler had already finished! They had said it would be two weeks.

I think he did a fantastic job! The knots are very small and delicate - he clearly paid attention when I showed him what I was looking for! The clasp is nothing special but I'm so delighted by it bc now I can adjust the length according to what I'm wearing. And I love how the earrings turned out as well! No issues drilling them.

Some shots below. I love GSS pearls.

Glad they turned out so well! I love love love these pearls and love them on you! They are so luminous against your skin.

 

[Calliecake]

They look so beautiful on you @Civnhasy!!!

 

[Civnhasy]

Thank you both so much, @MMtwo and @Calliecake !

 

[Calliecake]

@Civnhasy, It’s also great you were able to find someone locally to do the work for you. It makes everything so much nicer when you have a jeweler you trust locally.

 

[Civnhasy]

@Civnhasy, It’s also great you were able to find someone locally to do the work for you. It makes everything so much nicer when you have a jeweler you trust locally.

I agree! I am so happy this worked out as well as it did. It was clear from calling around a few places that not every jeweler is comfortable working with pearls, and I was also worried about sloppy/uneven knotting. This guy absolutely got the assignment and clearly took pride in his work!