Finding the perfect EC, building the perfect ring

[alkaloids]

So I''ve decided it''s time to actually put a ring on my lucky girl''s finger and so decided to do what I do best, which is research thoroughly on the internet. Naturally, I found you guys, and would appreciate very much your advice. I also look forward to showing off the ring here sometime soon, and can''t wait to photograph it.

We were at Costco and went looking at rings there so that I could get a feel for what she likes. We share very similar tastes on about everything, and so I was happy to have her point out and be excited about the emerald cut diamond rings, and the thing she seemed to be most concerned with is that it has lots of sparkles from a large area - ie. solitaire is no good. I''m a huge fan of the beautiful EC stones I''ve soon and so that''s great. I prefer the more ''elegant'' three-stone (emerald+baguettes) settings, but she seemed to be excited about a halo.

My budget is about $4k. $4300 or so would be fine, but under is good, too.

I have a cousin who is a jeweler but is now in gemology school in California somewhere. He has offered to help but is very flaky and the family has lots of horror stories about rings disappearing for 2 years to get re-sized. He has offered to find me a great EC stone within "a day" but that was about 4 days ago so I''m kind of ruling that out.

My mom removed some small diamonds from a ring that she''d gotten from her mother (and my sister scavenged some rounds from it for her e-ring), as the center diamond was too big for her to want on a ring (a high quality problem, I think...) and she''ll just turn it into a pendant. Those are 10 tapered baguettes that I don''t know anything else about. I should be getting them in the mail today or tomorrow though. I want to do a custom setting using at least some of those stones and I think that getting it done locally is the only feasible way to do that. And it should be awesome.

I have gone to two B&M jewelers in Austin - Kruger''s Diamonds (been around since 1906, very well-regarded), where the woman was super-helpful and said that if I found anything online they''d be glad to try to get it for me for cheaper or if not, that''s fine, they didn''t mind. Also they would be very happy to, if I get my mom''s stones and I don''t love them, trade them in for what I do want. They said they will also then take a return (for trade-up) of a stone that''s not theirs - just in general very accommodating and eager to help, which I really appreciated. Their stones seemed good, but expensive.

I also went to Americus Diamond where they claim to have the largest diamond inventory in Austin, and are very well-reviewed. They didn''t have one single loose EC in any size/grade/anything, but she had a couple ~1ct in rings. Though the woman assured me that she would find me the diamond I wanted, if I get it elsewhere they will charge an extra 1$/point for labor if I don''t get the diamond through them. Seems reasonable, but less overtly accommodating. They also had a big "40% off" banner outside the store which was a turn-off, but like I said, they''re well-reviewed.

At the second store I went to I looked at the EC''s they had set in rings and could tell that one had a "dead" step and I couldn''t get it to flash at me from any angle, and the others also seemed mediocre and discolored in general. I was pretty proud of myself for being able to look at a diamond and tell it''s sub-par and it''s not just *zomgsomethingsparkly* (this is obviously my first diamond purchase). The woman also didn''t have the (EGL) certs on either stone and would have to look into tracking them down - as she couldn''t find them in about 5 minutes in the back. I wasn''t excited about this, either.

I told both of them that I was looking for a G-VS2 or better, and my cousin told me that I should be able to get about 1ct for the ~$3k that I''m planning on spending on the center stone, though I haven''t heard back yet from either (it''s not been long, though). I also told them that I''m looking for Table/Depth %''s in the 60-66 range (though I guess I am willing to let the depth go a little if the crown height is still good).

I have also been in contact with both Whiteflash and GOG as I heard from the forums here that those are excellent for finding good fancy cuts. Both seem willing/eager to help and I''m happy with the correspondence with both, though Whiteflash a bit better. In any case, here are the diamonds I have narrowed it down to:

Whiteflash 0.85 D VS2 - $2800
http://www.whiteflash.com/diamonds/Diamond_Details.aspx?idno=2081724 - This one is pretty good. I am considering having WF pull the diamond in to get IS/ASET/Sarin on it.

Good Old Gold 0.92 F VS2 - $2500
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/5392/ - That stone seems to have a typo on the page, but looking at the cert the table % is 64, not the 86.--. It also is my favorite I think, and already has the ASET/IS images. Let me know what your eyes think of them.

Solomon Bros 1.00 G VS2 - $2850
Sku: 3YH77488Y - I can''t figure out how to link directly to a diamond''s page, which seems pretty remarkable...

Solomon Bros 1.01 G VS2 - $3262
Sku: 3YF39HF7

Abazias 1.01 G VS2 - $3080
http://www.abazias.com/database/NewDiamondInfo.asp?stock=58619899&src=builder
- This diamond seems to be listed as two different prices depending on how you find it. Either 3080, which seems pretty good, or 3436, which seems less good.

And I had some ring designs in my head but am now thinknig that perhaps the best thing to do would be to get her the stone, set it in something very simple (like a solitaire) and then design one with her that we have the jeweler incorporate the other diamonds into. It seems like a good choice and sounds like something that the local store I am more excited about would be happy to do.

So what do you think? Am I doing this the right way? Am I missing anything? TIA.

 

[emeraldlover1]

Do you have pictures of any of these? I would also check James Allen and ERD to see what they have in your price range as well. I got my stone from Engagement Rings Direct and we loved workign with Mark.

It is hard to tell what these look like without seeing them.

 

[alkaloids]

The pictures of the diamond at GOG are up, I''m trying to figure out how to post them well here. =P

 

[girlie-girl]

Hello Alkaloids.

I'm not very good at scrutinizing IS/ASET images for emerald cuts, so I'll leave that bit for someone who is.

I did want to show you a setting that Stepcutgirl posted a few weeks ago. I don't know who makes it, perhaps she does, but it instantly came to mind when you were talking about the baguettes and an emerald center.

Good luck in your quest and welcome to Pricescope!

 

[emeraldlover1]

um..yeah, not my favorite by the looks of those pictures. The symmetry looks off to me. I looked at the cert and the polish and symmetry are good...and I would want a very good or excellent. I think you can do better. Any other pics?

 

[alkaloids]

Ok, for what I''d seen, it sounded like cut/polish of good is very adequate and not really included in the cut classes scale that I''ve been able to find on here (I don''t know what it''s called, but it breaks things to 1A, 1B, etc).

This one at James Allen looks pretty interesting, though probably it''s the absurd long-ness of it that makes is so cheap:

Item # 1097375
Shape Emerald
Weight 0.93
Color D
Clarity VS1
Polish Very Good
Symmetry Good
Fluorescence Faint
Measurements 9.28 * 3.83 * 2.67
Price $ 3,140.00

It has a picture you can view on their site but that seems even harder to pull off. It''s here:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-VS1-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1097375.asp

But for now I''m going to say pass. Interesting, though, to be sure...

 

[emeraldlover1]

Date: 4/23/2009 1:20:20 PM
Author: alkaloids
Ok, for what I''d seen, it sounded like cut/polish of good is very adequate and not really included in the cut classes scale that I''ve been able to find on here (I don''t know what it''s called, but it breaks things to 1A, 1B, etc).

This one at James Allen looks pretty interesting, though probably it''s the absurd long-ness of it that makes is so cheap:

Item # 1097375
Shape Emerald
Weight 0.93
Color D
Clarity VS1
Polish Very Good
Symmetry Good
Fluorescence Faint
Measurements 9.28 * 3.83 * 2.67
Price $ 3,140.00

It has a picture you can view on their site but that seems even harder to pull off. It''s here:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-VS1-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1097375.asp

But for now I''m going to say pass. Interesting, though, to be sure...

You are right, sometimes. It all comes down to the look of the diamond. In the pictures the diamond seems to have more light return on one side rather than being equall on both sides. When I look at it I am trying to figure out why it looks off, not why its so beautiful, which is what you want, I believe. The patterns don''t look symmetrical to me in the GOG pics which I believe is one of the most important things in an EC. At first I thought it might have been the tilt on the diamond but it is the same in all the pictures.

The one on JA is not worth your consideration in my opinion.

 

[emeraldlover1]

I''d want to see an ASET on this one: http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1140952.asp

 

[alkaloids]

Date: 4/23/2009 1:35:59 PM
Author: emeraldlover1

Date: 4/23/2009 1:20:20 PM

Author: alkaloids

Ok, for what I''d seen, it sounded like cut/polish of good is very adequate and not really included in the cut classes scale that I''ve been able to find on here (I don''t know what it''s called, but it breaks things to 1A, 1B, etc).



This one at James Allen looks pretty interesting, though probably it''s the absurd long-ness of it that makes is so cheap:


Item # 1097375

Shape Emerald

Weight 0.93

Color D

Clarity VS1

Polish Very Good

Symmetry Good

Fluorescence Faint

Measurements 9.28 * 3.83 * 2.67

Price $ 3,140.00


It has a picture you can view on their site but that seems even harder to pull off. It''s here:

http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-VS1-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1097375.asp


But for now I''m going to say pass. Interesting, though, to be sure...

You are right, sometimes. It all comes down to the look of the diamond. In the pictures the diamond seems to have more light return on one side rather than being equall on both sides. When I look at it I am trying to figure out why it looks off, not why its so beautiful, which is what you want, I believe. The patterns don''t look symmetrical to me in the GOG pics which I believe is one of the most important things in an EC. At first I thought it might have been the tilt on the diamond but it is the same in all the pictures.


The one on JA is not worth your consideration in my opinion.

Yes, as I looked at it more I saw what you meant about it being asymmetrical looking. Thank you for pointing that out and I''ll get WF to pull the other.

 

[bgray]

the photos are often not the best way to judge--the stone appears slightly tilted

 

[emeraldlover1]

Date: 4/23/2009 2:04:09 PM
Author: bgray
the photos are often not the best way to judge--the stone appears slightly tilted

I thought that too until I looked at all the pictures on GOG''s site. Which leads me to believe it is the stone.

 

[alkaloids]

Date: 4/23/2009 1:38:37 PM
Author: emeraldlover1
I''d want to see an ASET on this one: http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1140952.asp

That one, with its L:W ratio of 1.25 is I think too square. I talked to James at WF just now and they are going to have pictures for me by tomorrow. How terrifying and fun!

 

[strmrdr]

Date: 4/23/2009 2:20:59 PM
Author: emeraldlover1

Date: 4/23/2009 2:04:09 PM

Author: bgray

the photos are often not the best way to judge--the stone appears slightly tilted

I thought that too until I looked at all the pictures on GOG''s site. Which leads me to believe it is the stone.

its the stone but the good/good rating don''t have much to do with it.
optical symmetry which is what is off isn''t graded on the report.

 

[purrfectpear]

Since you''re already in TX, personally I''d probably stick with Whiteflash. Tell them your budget and interest and then make an appointment to see what they have.

 

[alkaloids]

Date: 4/23/2009 4:02:59 PM
Author: purrfectpear
Since you''re already in TX, personally I''d probably stick with Whiteflash. Tell them your budget and interest and then make an appointment to see what they have.

I''ve enjoyed my interactions with WF and see myself sticking from them. Apparently of the diamonds I listed earlier, all are gone except the one from GOG, but that one seems less than ideal. Hrmph. I do think, though, that looking at it again it might just be an issue of the diamond being tilted in the photography, but it''s the same way in all of them, so I''m going to bet on asymmetric.

So where it stands now I''m having this EC brought in by WF for imaging:

0.81 ct F IF - 1.43 L:W ratio - 64% table 62.2% depth - EX/EX polish/symmetry - M-TK girdle

The specs all look good and I''m very very excited.

About the suggestion to just go look at them, I''m finding it surprisingly tricky to find anywhere with a significant selection of EC''s on-hand. Is a well-cut EC that rare? Now I''m really starting to envy the H&A people.

Also, I spent a bit of time last night with the GF browsing through the online stores for band types (in a purely "academic" sense of course) and so didn''t say or suggest anything, but she was excited. I think I''ll see what I can design once I have those baguettes in-hand.

Any other suggestions from anyone so far?

 

[blueroses]

I''m actually "in the market" for a halo-ed EC myself (we have the stone, and are going to start talking/shopping/pricing settings soon too.)

Since you want to use the family baguettes, that''s a different kind of halo than what I''d presume she saw at Costco (micropave, beadset, fishtail, etc??) There''s some yummy eye candy there, of all places!

Daniel K makes a baguette halo

Would something in that vein jibe with what you''re picturing?

 

[blueroses]

On the other hand.....you can use the baguettes soley for the band:

 

[alkaloids]

I like both of your suggestions a lot. And yes, the ones at costco were probably micropave, but I didn''t really know much at the time (a few weeks ago) and last night looking at the rings she seemed to favor more of the non-halo settings where the emerald just really stood out. Much more like the ring pictured nearer the top of this thread. So maybe I will use some of the (tapered - though I''m not sure how much yet) baguettes just on the band, but do instead of just one length-wise, two. Or would that be strange? It would make it so that the second was nearly always occluded by her other fingers, but it might be kind of unique and cool.

And if I go with a much more simple setting like that, I think I can stretch upward a bit on my diamond budget, and so am considering this diamond I also found at WF, though of course I need to find pictures:

Report: GIA
. Shape: Emerald
. Carat: 0.91
. Depth %: 60.2
. Table %: 60
. Girdle: -
. Measurements: 7.13-4.75X2.86
. Polish: Very Good
. Symmetry: Very Good
. Culet: None
. Fluorescence: None

I do love that it''s one of few diamonds I''m considering that is actually more than 7mm tall and it also has what look to be great proportions. At least on paper. I think I will ask them to get it for photographs, too. Thoughts?

 

[blueroses]

I''m not quite sure what you mean by doing a second that would be occluded by her other fingers....do you mean a second band with the baguettes, so they''d flank the E-ring on either side?

That would be lovely!

 

[alkaloids]

So, update.

I have a diamond getting to WF today or tomorrow to be photographed. I'll post pictures when I have it, but it seems pretty likely. That is super exciting.

We were shopping for my mom something for her birthday, so went to the jeweler I've been talking to and was just like, "Let's go look at rings." It was super cute and she had a lot of fun and we finally found the one that she just totally loved. More than all the others, she just loved it far and away more than the rest. There are a couple of problems, though. The setting is for a square diamond, and though it looked awesome with the EC in there, I don't think that one would take an EC. I thought about an asscher, but it looks like they are even tougher to get a good one than an EC, and more expensive. It used baguettes on the side, which is good, but they are straight, and not tapered. I got the set of tapered baguettes from my mom and there are 10 of them. It would be really really nice to use them in this ring. I got sizes of them, and there are 2 that are almost perfect matches, then another 4 (though one is chipped pretty badly and so probably unusable), and then a set of 4 that is pretty similar, though one is about .3mm longer than the others.

The baguettes are:
2x 4.7x1.9x1.4
3x 4.25x1.7x1.4
3x 3.3x1.6x1.3
1x 3.5x1.7x1.1

The thing she loved about the ring - probably one of the most important things - is that it looks light, airy, and fragile. But then it also has tons of sparkle. So lots of sparkle, not a lot of heft. Most of the baguette/halo rings tended to be pretty hefty... I guess this is a 'common prong' setting where almost all the metal is underneath?

I took a photo of it, but it didn't really come out. I then came back today and did a sketch of my impressions of it, and kind of what I'm thinking of how to change it.

I don't know, though, how expensive it will be to change/custom make this. I'm thinking "expensive" and I may need to come up with more $$ for my ring budget. I do feel, though, like it would be worth it if we can use these other elements that will make it more even more personal.

Anyway, here's my sketch:

 

[stepcutgirl]

I just wanted to let you know the pic girlie posted is not mine, but one day a similar version will be! It''s a no longer made Vera Wang design. Thanks for posting it Girlie, I had the same thing in mind when he said he wanted to use baguettes.

 

[alkaloids]

Pictures!

Ok just got the scans of pictures from WF. Opinions?

 

[alkaloids]

IS:

 

[alkaloids]

and 40x mag:

 

[strmrdr]

crown height?

 

[alkaloids]

Crown height is 11.4%.

To me it doesn''t look that great because there''s not really much red/blue contrast in the middle of the long section and that whole black area on the middle of the bottom quadrant? What''s the word there?

I''d love to hear what you have to say about it though stormrdr as I''ve gone through and read most of your posts and about step cut diamonds, as well as really liked your journal entries.

 

[strmrdr]

Its about on par with the gog stone above, might be pretty but its a step or so down from the best.