Evaluating jadeite (feicui)

[Seastheday]

This one sold for just under $9000 including premium, a Cartier 18k white gold necklace with jade pendant.

I love it but it has some chips to the jade.

Will it be difficult to find an antique jade piece without some degree of chipping/fracturing? Am I on a fool’s errand?

www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rare-cartier-18k-gold-stunning-solid-jade-fine-di-4261-c-e1749f09a7?srsltid=AfmBOopusfOSBlrytdnBySzn6eQSB2pC8udKgj7rHecWXTi6fmY1nqM9

 

[Seastheday]

I’ve had this bookmarked for a while. Sold for just under $15000 including premium 2016. If I had started my love affair with Jade back then and had been looking, I would have snapped this up in a heartbeat:

Bonhams : A Jadeite and Diamond Floral Brooch, by Carvin French

The highly translucent carved jadeite 'peony' of intense emerald green colour, measuring approximately 22.5 x 21.5 x 5.6mm, within brilliant-cut diamond petals, diamonds approximately 3.60 carats total, maker's mark, length 3.5cm

www.bonhams.com

 

[Seastheday]

Here’s a pair of Cartier jade earrings that was briefly on display at the Paris Guimet museum in 2017. I love the look but again I can see a surface crack (which I circled) that I think will bother me? I don’t know if I’m being unrealistic expecting less flaws in antique jade pieces?

Btw jade looks so different in different light, as you can see of the same earrings below.



A similar pair sold for around $8000 years later at auction although there are small differences, this one has red lacquer instead of coral, and the jade stones are a different pair ie no cracks.

https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/art-deco-platinum-jade-diamond-enamel-earrings-po-13-c-188415b9b2?srsltid=AfmBOooA-HPreaouAtYXtEMvWrm0bb-3LUKXMkLSAC13Y-ibZBl4tJf6

 

[Pomelo]

Not sure if anyone follows auction houses, however, this is the auction result for this lovely strand of jade beads (Christies Magnificent Jewellery Sale in Hong Kong recently):



DK

I saw this at the viewing in Beijing! The one on the left had an even higher estimate and better colour and water in person, but the colour wasn’t uniform.

Sadly I was too chicken to ask to try them on haha.

 

[Pomelo]

I came across an interesting video on RedNote today about the setting of an icy pale lavender “pigeon’s egg” cabochon.

What I thought was interesting is how the foil back is almost a rust-like colour to give the cabochon a pinkish tinge. I wonder if this is because icy lavender jadeite with higher saturation often has pink?

 

[Lentibulariaceae]

Here’s a pair of Cartier jade earrings that was briefly on display at the Paris Guimet museum in 2017. I love the look but again I can see a surface crack (which I circled) that I think will bother me? I don’t know if I’m being unrealistic expecting less flaws in antique jade pieces?

To me, it sounds like you’re starting to get slightly obsessive about the flawlessness of these pieces over the stability and beauty of them. Maybe I’m wrong though.

I’m no jade expert by any means, but I think it’s important to remember that mining techniques were likely WILDLY different 100 years ago, and may have resulted in more damage to the material than it does today. And, these are also OLD pieces. I’d never realistically expect a 100 year old piece of jewelry to be flawless unless it spent that entire existence sitting in a box. Just stuff to chew on, it’s not my money and not my search. I do wish you luck though!

 

[Seastheday]

To me, it sounds like you’re starting to get slightly obsessive about the flawlessness of these pieces over the stability and beauty of them. Maybe I’m wrong though.

I’m no jade expert by any means, but I think it’s important to remember that mining techniques were likely WILDLY different 100 years ago, and may have resulted in more damage to the material than it does today. And, these are also OLD pieces. I’d never realistically expect a 100 year old piece of jewelry to be flawless unless it spent that entire existence sitting in a box. Just stuff to chew on, it’s not my money and not my search. I do wish you luck though!

Thanks so much for taking the time to help. I’m fairly new to jade so trying to figure out my expectations for it.

I have some antique sapphire/ruby jewelry with abrasions and chips to the sapphires/rubies as expected for age. But I would not be ok with say a surface fracture however thin/tight traveling across the face of the sapphire or ruby, which was what I saw in the jade pendant my friend purchased recently. I love love love the look of that pendant but don’t know if the surface fracture (I can barely feel it with my finger) will bother me enough in the long run.

It sounds like jadeite is more prone to things like surface/internal fractures than say sapphires, so I would love to hear from an antique jade jewelry collector:
1. Is it realistic to expect NO surface reaching fractures in a carved antique jade pendant of around $15000 USD (upper limit of my budget for this project), with the jade still being at least of medium intensity/translucency and pleasing color?
2. If not: Is my budget the problem or my expectations?

 

[Pomelo]

Thanks so much for taking the time to help. I’m fairly new to jade so trying to figure out my expectations for it.

I have some antique sapphire/ruby jewelry with abrasions and chips to the sapphires/rubies as expected for age. But I would not be ok with say a surface fracture however thin/tight traveling across the face of the sapphire or ruby, which was what I saw in the jade pendant my friend purchased recently. I love love love the look of that pendant but don’t know if the surface fracture (I can barely feel it with my finger) will bother me enough in the long run.

It sounds like jadeite is more prone to things like surface/internal fractures than say sapphires, so I would love to hear from an antique jade jewelry collector:
1. Is it realistic to expect NO surface reaching fractures in a carved antique jade pendant of around $15000 USD (upper limit of my budget for this project), with the jade still being at least of medium intensity/translucency and pleasing color?
2. If not: Is my budget the problem or my expectations?

For a 15k USD pendant of around 1 inch in size, you definitely should not be expecting surface fractures. That’s the type of money I’d be paying for a glutinous-icy bangle in today’s market.

But I do think you’re limiting yourself by wanting a certified by GIA, 100% original art deco piece. That’s not to say you should give up on the search though! These pieces will exist, good things come to those who wait

 

[Lentibulariaceae]

Thanks so much for taking the time to help. I’m fairly new to jade so trying to figure out my expectations for it.

I have some antique sapphire/ruby jewelry with abrasions and chips to the sapphires/rubies as expected for age. But I would not be ok with say a surface fracture however thin/tight traveling across the face of the sapphire or ruby, which was what I saw in the jade pendant my friend purchased recently. I love love love the look of that pendant but don’t know if the surface fracture (I can barely feel it with my finger) will bother me enough in the long run.

It sounds like jadeite is more prone to things like surface/internal fractures than say sapphires, so I would love to hear from an antique jade jewelry collector:
1. Is it realistic to expect NO surface reaching fractures in a carved antique jade pendant of around $15000 USD (upper limit of my budget for this project), with the jade still being at least of medium intensity/translucency and pleasing color?
2. If not: Is my budget the problem or my expectations?

I’m quite new to jade too, so frankly I don’t know a lot about what to expect! I think Pomelo sums everything up pretty well for me though. I do think that you can find what you’re looking for, it just may take longer than expected!

 

[Starstruck8]

It sounds like jadeite is more prone to things like surface/internal fractures than say sapphires, so I would love to hear from an antique jade jewelry collector:
1. Is it realistic to expect NO surface reaching fractures in a carved antique jade pendant of around $15000 USD (upper limit of my budget for this project), with the jade still being at least of medium intensity/translucency and pleasing color?
2. If not: Is my budget the problem or my expectations?

I'm totally unqualified to answer your questions, but...

Of the pieces you posted (I know they are not now for sale), I like this one:

Bonhams : A Jadeite and Diamond Floral Brooch, by Carvin French

The highly translucent carved jadeite 'peony' of intense emerald green colour, measuring approximately 22.5 x 21.5 x 5.6mm, within brilliant-cut diamond petals, diamonds approximately 3.60 carats total, maker's mark, length 3.5cm

www.bonhams.com

It has fluid carving and good translucent strongly green material. Note how the prongs are sympathetically shaped to the valleys of the carving.

It's interesting that it's not deco - Carvin and French were established 1954, and it's obvious from the style. It seems, as you have found, that the jade in (Western) deco pieces is often not high quality.

Btw jade looks so different in different light, as you can see of the same earrings below.

This is what puts me off buying jade online! Same piece, three pictures, all different. What does it really look like...? Note also, it's genuine Cartier, genuine deco. It was pictured in the first article I linked. But whatever the jade really looks like, it's clearly not top quality.

A similar pair sold for around $8000 years later at auction although there are small differences, this one has red lacquer instead of coral, and the jade stones are a different pair ie no cracks.

This one has me worried. Is it genuine Cartier (perhaps a different model) or is it a knockoff? Note that the listing hints at Cartier but carefully doesn't claim it. The gap between the hanger and the jade ring doesn't inspire confidence. In all the pictures, the outer circle looks slightly out of round. (But this may be an artifact of the photographic processing - maybe a poor job of extracting the pictures from the background.) Absent good documentation, I'd run a mile...

To be clear, this is not meant to be negative. But it seems you have to do a lot of searching and some serious study. Good things come to those who wait.

 

[Seastheday]

@Pomelo @Lentibulariaceae @Starstruck8 @Crimson @Autumn in New England @LilAlex and everyone else too who have helped me so, my search may have been disappointing so far, but your support has exceeded my expectations. Thank you for helping me feel heard and understood—at the end of the day, it means more to me than any material end. My experience here among you all encapsulates for me the true joy of such a hobby.

 

[Crimson]

I came across an interesting video on RedNote today about the setting of an icy pale lavender “pigeon’s egg” cabochon.

What I thought was interesting is how the foil back is almost a rust-like colour to give the cabochon a pinkish tinge. I wonder if this is because icy lavender jadeite with higher saturation often has pink?

Yes, this has been called out in WeChat and other forums.
I also posted a warning on it.
It is done for coloured diamonds, too so we must beware!
Good to have this reminder, @Pomelo.
The person who first told me about it was a jade supplier based in China.

 

[Crimson]

This one has me worried. Is it genuine Cartier (perhaps a different model) or is it a knockoff? Note that the listing hints at Cartier but carefully doesn't claim it. The gap between the hanger and the jade ring doesn't inspire confidence. In all the pictures, the outer circle looks slightly out of round. (But this may be an artifact of the photographic processing - maybe a poor job of extracting the pictures from the background.) Absent good documentation, I'd run a mile...

To be clear, this is not meant to be negative. But it seems you have to do a lot of searching and some serious study. Good things come to those who wait.

Yes, I agree with @Starstruck8 , @Seastheday.
There is something worrying about the auction piece. The jadeite looks at first glance to be treated. There’s that crackle/spiderweb pattern that is often seen in treated material. You can also see that in the crackle or veins, the colour is darker. That could be an indication of dye.

 

[Pomelo]

@Seastheday I know you’re looking for a pendant but I saw this ring in the Lang website and it looks pretty dang good. The material is fine but it’s hard to tell the level of translucency, maybe because Lang’s photography set up isn’t suited to jadeite. It has a GIA cert too!

If I may provide some personal experience - I get so much joy out of Severus (my green egg) because I see him every time I look at my hands. And having a big cab means he looks great in photos as well haha.

My jade Buddha is awesome but I’m so frustrated that I can’t see it!

(Also, please let me know if it’s not useful that I’m imaginary-spending your money!!)

 

[Seastheday]

@Seastheday I know you’re looking for a pendant but I saw this ring in the Lang website and it looks pretty dang good. The material is fine but it’s hard to tell the level of translucency, maybe because Lang’s photography set up isn’t suited to jadeite. It has a GIA cert too!

If I may provide some personal experience - I get so much joy out of Severus (my green egg) because I see him every time I look at my hands. And having a big cab means he looks great in photos as well haha.

My jade Buddha is awesome but I’m so frustrated that I can’t see it!

(Also, please let me know if it’s not useful that I’m imaginary-spending your money!!)

Do shop away with my imaginary funds lol. I’m very grateful for you keeping an eye out for me. I do think I have my heart set on a carved piece of jade though.

 

[Seastheday]

What do folks think about quality of the jade plaque in this piece?

Bonhams : RETAILED BY CARTIER: ART DECO JADEITE, ENAMEL, ONYX AND DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE, CIRCA 1925

The translucent apple green jadeite plaque carved with phoenix and floral motifs, set within an enamel and single-cut diamond frame, to the celadon green jadeite bead necklace, set at intervals with faceted onyx rondelles and beads, spaced by old brilliant- and rose-cut diamond pavé-set balls...

www.bonhams.com

I pasted the description below for those folks who don’t want to click on the link to the original auction.

RETAILED BY CARTIER: ART DECO JADEITE, ENAMEL, ONYX AND DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE, CIRCA 1925
The translucent apple green jadeite plaque carved with phoenix and floral motifs, set within an enamel and single-cut diamond frame, to the celadon green jadeite bead necklace, set at intervals with faceted onyx rondelles and beads, spaced by old brilliant- and rose-cut diamond pavé-set balls and rondelles;

Jadeite plaque and selected jadeite bead measuring approximately 46.50 x 32.82 x 5.02 and 9.28mm respectively; pendant signed Cartier and numbered 92252; mounted in platinum and yellow gold; pendant length 6.8cm; necklace length 61.0cm
Footnotes

Accompanied by a Letter of Expertise from IAJA Expertise, numbered XP2637-061025, dated 6 October 2025, stating that the necklace with matching pendant is a genuine Cartier item, the item circa 1925, retailed by Cartier New York circa 1980. (The letter is issued by Olivier Bachet, Director of IAJA Expertise, and author of 'Cartier, Exceptional Objects with Alain Cartier' and 'In The Beginning Was The Line, Cartier Art Deco Drawings 1910-1930')

Accompanied by an original magazine cut out of a Cartier New York advertisement, dated 1979.

Accompanied by two Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory reports numbered SJ 246025 and SJ 246026, dated 6 October 2025, stating that the selected jadeites are natural, have no resin detected, known in the trade as 'A Jade'.

 

[Starstruck8]

What do folks think about quality of the jade plaque in this piece?

Standard disclaimer, totally not an expert. But... IMO, this by far the best of the deco pieces you have shown. The carving is detailed - look at the phoenix's neck and tail feathers - and has undercutting. The back is well finished.

The design is described as 'phoenix with floral motifs'. I'm pretty sure the 'floral motifs' are a wutong tree, said to be the only tree on which a phoenix will alight. This makes a traditional auspicious design.

The material is passably translucent. The contrast with the beads, which look pretty opaque, gives some confidence that the pictures are credible. The material is not the more translucent and saturated green favoured by jadeite connoisseurs. But I'm starting to think that this was not what Western deco designers were looking for in jade. The paler green could well have been the Cartier deco designer's ideal.

You have no doubt seen the price estimate...

 

[Seastheday]

Standard disclaimer, totally not an expert. But... IMO, this by far the best of the deco pieces you have shown. The carving is detailed - look at the phoenix's neck and tail feathers - and has undercutting. The back is well finished.

The design is described as 'phoenix with floral motifs'. I'm pretty sure the 'floral motifs' are a wutong tree, said to be the only tree on which a phoenix will alight. This makes a traditional auspicious design.

The material is passably translucent. The contrast with the beads, which look pretty opaque, gives some confidence that the pictures are credible. The material is not the more translucent and saturated green favoured by jade connoisseurs. But I'm starting to think that this was not what Western deco designers were looking for in jade. The paler green could well have been the Cartier deco designer's ideal.

You have no doubt seen the price estimate...

Many thank for your thoughts—it’s a joy to learn from you.

Looks like it did not end up selling.