Estate ruby advice

[Autumn in New England]

HI:

Tiffany & Co. Three Stone Burma Ruby, 2.06 carat, an #518498

The 2.06 carat Burma ruby prong-set in 18k yellow gold, between two emerald cut diamonds set in platinum, to the platinum band. Signed Tiffany & Co. Accompanied by GIA and AGL reports stating that ruby is of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with minor signs of heat treatment.

www.beladora.com

cheers--Sharon

It's good to "see" you!!

 

[AntiqueJewelryQuest]

Hi all! I had a Zoom with the vendor today. They didn’t have much information beyond what was available on the website. I asked about the history of the ring, and they said that they purchased the ring from another vendor in the industry but didn’t know where they had sourced it from. I also asked if the center stone is the original or if perhaps it had been replaced (thank you for the suggestion!!). They said that they purchased the ring thinking it was the original stone, but didn’t know for sure.

I really like the setting and think the center stone is beautiful, but I’m now feeling quite uncertain about the whole thing. This would be a really large purchase for my partner and me, and we’re nervous about overpaying - particularly because we’re new to buying jewelry.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Hi all! I had a Zoom with the vendor today. They didn’t have much information beyond what was available on the website. I asked about the history of the ring, and they said that they purchased the ring from another vendor in the industry but didn’t know where they had sourced it from. I also asked if the center stone is the original or if perhaps it had been replaced (thank you for the suggestion!!). They said that they purchased the ring thinking it was the original stone, but didn’t know for sure.

I really like the setting and think the center stone is beautiful, but I’m now feeling quite uncertain about the whole thing. This would be a really large purchase for my partner and me, and we’re nervous about overpaying - particularly because we’re new to buying jewelry.

This is tough for me to comment on, because I only go by fineness and whether I like the design. I've never been an "antique shopper," as much as I can appreciate it. So I suppose I would not be turned off by whether the ruby was original or not, just that it was properly certified and beautiful. And in that respect, I do not find the piece to be overpriced. Good luck to you in your decision making!

 

[Dreamer_D]

This is tough for me to comment on, because I only go by fineness and whether I like the design. I've never been an "antique shopper," as much as I can appreciate it. So I suppose I would not be turned off by whether the ruby was original or not, just that it was properly certified and beautiful. And in that respect, I do not find the piece to be overpriced. Good luck to you in your decision making!

I agree with this. As long as the ring doesn’t have a markup due to the supposed antique provenance it would not bother me.

It says that commercial mining didn’t happen in Mozambique in the 1920s. Does that mean no mining at all whatsoever, even small scale?

 

[Autumn in New England]

I agree with this. As long as the ring doesn’t have a markup due to the supposed antique provenance it would not bother me.

It says that commercial mining didn’t happen in Mozambique in the 1920s. Does that mean no mining at all whatsoever, even small scale?

And I agree with this. Yes, Mozambique ruby mining didn't begin in earnest until the '90's, and didn't ramp up until the early aughts. But that doesn't mean provincial mining didn't exist back in the day. Lots of other gems were being mined in the area, such as garnet, tourmaline, beryl, and even spinel. Also labs have been known to misidentify origin. So you never know. The stone may have been replaced, or the entire ring may be a reproduction, as others have astutely pointed out, but there's also a chance it may be a true antique with the original stone. Lastly, I'm so sold on those carre diamonds now that this ring would be a no-brainer for me. lol

 

[Dreamer_D]

And I agree with this. Yes, Mozambique ruby mining didn't begin in earnest until the '90's, and didn't ramp up until the early aughts. But that doesn't mean provincial mining didn't exist back in the day. Lots of other gems were being mined in the area, such as garnet, tourmaline, beryl, and even spinel. Also labs have been known to misidentify origin. So you never know. The stone may have been replaced, or the entire ring may be a reproduction, as others have astutely pointed out, but there's also a chance it may be a true antique with the original stone. Lastly, I'm so sold on those carre diamonds now that this ring would be a no-brainer for me. lol

I would be shocked if it was a reproduction. Those fabrication methods are very $$ today.

 

[LightBright]

Here's mine:


It's a platinum deco ring, c. 1920s, set with a teeny tiny unheated ruby. The ruby is very abraded and clearly original to the setting.

I also have a platinum ring from the 1940s set with a star ruby:

These are g

I agree with this. As long as the ring doesn’t have a markup due to the supposed antique provenance it would not bother me.

It says that commercial mining didn’t happen in Mozambique in the 1920s. Does that mean no mining at all whatsoever, even small scale?

Yes. I copied a paragraph about it in my comment. Late 2000s was when they started mining rubies in volume in Mozambique.

I looked for a while searching for any Art Deco ring with a Mozambique ruby. Even on Instagram, etc. in case one Ruby gem made it out of Africa in a pocket and placed in a ring.

I cannot find an example of any ring from that time period 1920s-1930s with a Mozambique ruby.

I looked for Mozambique rubies in antique Royal jewelry, and found no examples.

This is why I said it was so incredibly unique. I’ve never seen a Mozambique ruby in an Art Deco ring. Now I realize why. There are none.

During the middle of that period they started using synthetic rubies. On either side of that period, Asian mostly Burma and Ceylon sapphires were used, examples are in the two rings posted by @glitterata which are Burmese and Ceylonese I believe.

Mozambique rubies are incredibly beautiful, IMO and fluorescent, so it’s a gorgeous ring. It’s just that that ruby cannot be antique (unless it’s not Mozambique). But with a higher tier report like Gubelain sp you can price it properly.

And I believe there are amazing antique rings out there but OP should identify which type of ruby, price point and setting is most desired. There are many different options, sizes and price points out there.

 

[LightBright]

I zoomed in on the ring setting. The ruby fits exactly in the basket, it’s a perfect fit. Look at the margins of the ruby.

But it was also at one point loose to be analyzed by GCS.

Is it possible to put a replacement stone into a basket like that?

Also, what other type stone (that was removed) would have been in a rectangular basket like that? As an intact ring it’s more valuable.

Why would someone replace a nice stone with another nice stone?

Is it so easy and impeccable to switch out stones which each fit exactly in a basket?

I wonder if this is an error on the part of GCS? Or if this is a well done replica (not easy to do).

I have no idea. Just wondering why and how someone could have put a nice stone into an antique setting which had the prior stone removed. Unless it was to make it a higher price point?

Im just curious.

I still think OP needs to identify what exactly the desired ring should be (origin of gem, carat weight, cut, metal type, style/era, price point). Before committing to any one piece thats at a higher price point. Also lab report must be done.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I zoomed in on the ring setting. The ruby fits exactly in the basket, it’s a perfect fit. Look at the margins of the ruby.

But it was also at one point loose to be analyzed by GCS.

Is it possible to put a replacement stone into a basket like that?

Also, what other type stone (that was removed) would have been in a rectangular basket like that? As an intact ring it’s more valuable.

Why would someone replace a nice stone with another nice stone?

Is it so easy and impeccable to switch out stones which each fit exactly in a basket?

I wonder if this is an error on the part of GCS? Or if this is a well done replica (not easy to do).

I have no idea. Just wondering why and how someone could have put a nice stone into an antique setting which had the prior stone removed. Unless it was to make it a higher price point?

Im just curious.

I still think OP needs to identify what exactly the desired ring should be (origin of gem, carat weight, cut, metal type, style/era, price point). Before committing to any one piece thats at a higher price point. Also lab report must be done.

These are all good questions. We need an investigator to satisfy us! I am joking but also serious lol.

Pondering -- Mistake by the lab is possible. Cutting the gem to fit, back whenever it was replaced, is possible. Maybe the OG stone was damaged and this was a replacement? Maybe it held a lesser quality gem... there are many plausible explanations. Maybe it is a modern reproduction!

 

[LightBright]

OP, I also wanted to mention that, like you said, red or reddish pink natural spinel is also an option, there are vintage/antique examples. I’m looking at very high prices (doubled or more in the last ten years) for ruby.

But sometimes you get lucky, maybe put out a call for recommendations after you define preferences. People can share links.

For example, I love Galerie Penelope in Paris and have purchased once from them. They usually have nice antique ruby rings like this one. Price point may be higher tier, but sometimes not depending on ring. This is an example of a pretty Belle Epoque ring w Burmese ruby.

Burmese Ruby and Diamond Art Deco Marquise Ring

Galerie Pénélope: Art Deco engagement ring in yellow gold and platinum, set with an unheated Burmese ruby in a diamond setting.

en.galeriepenelope.com

Check EBay too, UK sometimes has antique ruby rings at all price points. Most don’t have lab reports so buy with that in mind.

For example ruby side stones ( no idea about quality) and cute little antique diamond.

Stunning Antique Victorian Natural 1.95 Burma Ruby & Diamond Ring 14ct Gold | eBay UK

The ring is set with a large pure ice white old mine cut diamond. The diamond is of a very high quality and has no inclusion under the naked eye. These gems have that amazing depth of colour that you just do not see in ruby very often.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Dreamer_D]

OP, I also wanted to mention that, like you said, red or reddish pink natural spinel is also an option, there are vintage/antique examples. I’m looking at very high prices (doubled or more in the last ten years) for ruby.

But sometimes you get lucky, maybe put out a call for recommendations after you define preferences. People can share links.

For example, I love Galerie Penelope in Paris and have purchased once from them. They usually have nice antique ruby rings like this one. Price point may be higher tier, but sometimes not depending on ring. This is an example of a pretty Belle Epoque ring w Burmese ruby.

Burmese Ruby and Diamond Art Deco Marquise Ring

Galerie Pénélope: Art Deco engagement ring in yellow gold and platinum, set with an unheated Burmese ruby in a diamond setting.

en.galeriepenelope.com

Check EBay too, UK sometimes has antique ruby rings at all price points. Most don’t have lab reports so buy with that in mind.

For example ruby side stones ( no idea about quality) and cute little antique diamond.

Stunning Antique Victorian Natural 1.95 Burma Ruby & Diamond Ring 14ct Gold | eBay UK

The ring is set with a large pure ice white old mine cut diamond. The diamond is of a very high quality and has no inclusion under the naked eye. These gems have that amazing depth of colour that you just do not see in ruby very often.

www.ebay.co.uk

UK sellers are often on Etsy and Ruby Lane and I agree they have the good stuff when it comes to Edwardian.

 

[empliau]

I found a lovely estate ruby (and a matching sapphire)!

View attachment 1020154

 

[Bonsai]

I don’t have time to read all the replies, but here’s a few things: I would consider a spinel if it were made probably because Ruby’s are often treated and you kind of don’t know what you’re getting unless it’s tested Ruby

First dibs is notoriously overinflated and The sellers on first dibs often sell items elsewhere but if you contact them on first dibs, they’re not allowed to sell to you outside of first dibs at least that’s how it was in the past

When I see an item on first dibs, I look up the seller information to see where the seller is located and make an effort to contact them outside of first dibs. I never contact them first on first dibs.
Often times he will get a much better deal outside of that website because the website takes a substantial amount of commission from the sellers

I would also look outside of that website in general because again the prices are overinflated. You could have a custom ruby ring madr for much cheaper.

I purchased a beautiful unheated ruby from Sinn Esco. I’m sending it to a jeweler in New York to have it set by wax casting process I will probably spend less than $5000 on this ring total, including adding diamonds.