EMERALD CUT, ENOUGH FLASH/LIGHT PERFORMANCE?

[Saints91]

Hello everyone,

I just recently purchased a emerald cut diamond. It seemed to have great percentages/ratios (table 66%, depth 62.7%, 1.39 L/W, slightly thick to thick girdle, VG Polish/Symm). One of the reasons I purchased it was it appears to have good sparkle and light play (at least to these untrained eyes) and it's spread... it's a 1.01ct, but has measurements to diamonds in the 1.12 - 1.18ct range. One thing I noticed today on the video is that the crown height seems low. It's something I had no clue to look for.

I was wondering if some trained eyes, and even some untrained eyes would give me a opinion.

1.01 Carat emerald diamond

This emerald cut 1.01 carat J color vvs2 clarity has a diamond grading report from GIA

www.jamesallen.com

 

[Karl_K]

Yes it has a low crown height and is contrasty.
With a 62.7% depth and a slightly thick to thick girdle that's not unexpected.
If its already on the way to you then see if it speaks to you in as many lighting conditions as possible.

 

[Saints91]

Thanks for chiming in Karl, I appreciate it! I've read quite a few of your posts on the subject. Are there any specific things you would do to test it's light performance? Just checking int in different light....Am I just looking for the hall of mirrors effect, and some sparkle on the ends?

Can you expand on contrasty a bit?

 

[Saints91]

Oh, would you care to take a guess at the crown height... I was looking at other similar diamonds, maybe an 8% or a 9%?

 

[Karl_K]

Oh, would you care to take a guess at the crown height... I was looking at other similar diamonds, maybe an 8% or a 9%?

yes, you nailed the numbers that I would have guessed.

 

[Karl_K]

Thanks for chiming in Karl, I appreciate it! I've read quite a few of your posts on the subject. Are there any specific things you would do to test it's light performance? Just checking int in different light....Am I just looking for the hall of mirrors effect, and some sparkle on the ends?

Can you expand on contrasty a bit?

Walk the light across the stone as you slowly tilt it with the longs sides going up and down.

In the images it has 2 wide dark contrast bands down the center and on the ends.
How well those flash on and off when tilted side to side is going to have a lot to do with if it puts on a good show.
Also how dark they are in actual viewing vs the camera and at what distance will also have an effect.
Some people fall in love with the more contrasty style others not so much.

In the video it flips end over end on an angle which is impossible for it to happen when its on your finger.

 

[Saints91]

Walk the light across the stone as you slowly tilt it with the longs sides going up and down.

In the images it has 2 wide dark contrast bands down the center and on the ends.
How well those flash on and off when tilted side to side is going to have a lot to do with if it puts on a good show.
Also how dark they are in actual viewing vs the camera and at what distance will also have an effect.
Some people fall in love with the more contrasty style others not so much.

Thank you so much for taking the time to give me some guidance Karl. I can't wait to test it out. I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have to send it back. I've been on this search for 3-4months now and trying to soak up as much info as possible.

 

[molecule]

An alternative:

1.01 Carat emerald diamond

This emerald cut 1.01 carat J color vvs2 clarity has a diamond grading report from GIA

www.jamesallen.com

If you concentrate too much on spread, you will always consistently pick diamonds that are more pancake-y. It may help to post your budget and preferences and be provided with some alternatives.

 

[Saints91]

An alternative:

1.01 Carat emerald diamond

This emerald cut 1.01 carat J color vvs2 clarity has a diamond grading report from GIA

www.jamesallen.com

If you concentrate too much on spread, you will always consistently pick diamonds that are more pancake-y. It may help to post your budget and preferences and be provided with some alternatives.

There were very few options in my price range, but this one had the best depth/table % with VG Polish/Symm. I guess I did start calculating surface area once I got the 4-5 diamonds available. This one also looked the best to me. My price range is $3,400USD, so not a ton of options.

Does the crown height affect the actual setting of the stone.

 

[molecule]

There were very few options in my price range, but this one had the best depth/table % with VG Polish/Symm. I guess I did start calculating surface area once I got the 4-5 diamonds available. This one also looked the best to me. My price range is $3,400USD, so not a ton of options.

Does the crown height affect the actual setting of the stone.

There is no formula for best depth and table values. Of the emerald cuts that I have seen, I prefer those with a table% of less than 65, which pairs well with a depth greater than 65.

 

[Saints91]

There’s so many moving parts to the EC. When you really dig in, you can fall down the rabbit hole.

I can see the benefit in the smaller table % for sure. A jeweller I met with was trying to look for EC’s with 61% or lower.

Trying to balance budget, size, and quality is extremely difficult to do.

Do the trained eyes see any dead spots in the diamond I chose?

I will definitely entertain looking at other options if I get this one and it does sit well with me.

 

[Karl_K]

Do the trained eyes see any dead spots in the diamond I chose?

A lot of contrast yes, dead spots, not that the video shows which is good, but its not a realistic motion either.
Look it over with an open mind, play with it, then decide.

 

[Rockdiamond]

There were very few options in my price range, but this one had the best depth/table % with VG Polish/Symm.

Fellow Emerald Cut lover here!!!
from the perspective of a dealer- who sees a LOT of diamonds....
Eliminating- or selecting- Emerald Cut Diamonds based on Table/Depth/Pol/SYM will yield wildly inconsistent results.
When a prospective client has stipulations like this, they totally handcuff me. Sometimes a shallow crown height works well with the bottom of the emerald cut and gives you a spready stone that looks great ( and large for it's weight)
In many cases, EX/EX emerald cuts with numbers that suggest an amazing beauty are duds....

I know I'm not making this easier...but it's truly based on personal taste.....use your eyes

PS- I love Karl's suggestions- I pretty much do that too. Hold the stone are 18inches+- from my eye and tilt it back and forth- see how the light dances....

 

[Saints91]

Fellow Emerald Cut lover here!!!
from the perspective of a dealer- who sees a LOT of diamonds....
Eliminating- or selecting- Emerald Cut Diamonds based on Table/Depth/Pol/SYM will yield wildly inconsistent results.
When a prospective client has stipulations like this, they totally handcuff me. Sometimes a shallow crown height works well with the bottom of the emerald cut and gives you a spready stone that looks great ( and large for it's weight)
In many cases, EX/EX emerald cuts with numbers that suggest an amazing beauty are duds....

I know I'm not making this easier...but it's truly based on personal taste.....use your eyes

PS- I love Karl's suggestions- I pretty much do that too. Hold the stone are 18inches+- from my eye and tilt it back and forth- see how the light dances....

Thank you @Rockdiamond! Still waiting to receive it...can't wait to see it in person. I appreciate the advice!

 

[Scon_ce]

@Saints91 i am drawn to the contrasty emerald cuts with the LW ratio like the one you have ordered. (The videos anyway…as I have not seen many EC in person So I look forward to seeing hearing what you think once you have it on hand!

 

[Saints91]

@Saints91 i am drawn to the contrasty emerald cuts with the LW ratio like the one you have ordered. (The videos anyway…as I have not seen many EC in person So I look forward to seeing hearing what you think once you have it on hand!

As soon as I get it on Monday, I'll definitely update everyone!

 

[Saints91]

Should I be able to see the hall of mirrors effect with a 1ct.? The diamond sparkles but I don’t get that hall of mirrors effect at every angle… It’s kinda hard to see. Is that because of the size of diamond, or should you be able to see that regardless with the naked eye?

 

[Diamond Girl 21]

Should I be able to see the hall of mirrors effect with a 1ct.? The diamond sparkles but I don’t get that hall of mirrors effect at every angle… It’s kinda hard to see. Is that because of the size of diamond, or should you be able to see that regardless with the naked eye?

I have a 1.05ct and I see the effect, but not at every angle. I also have a 4.01ct Distinctive Gem Emerald cut (LG). I see the hall of mirrors effect in that diamond straight on and at some angles, but there is a tipping point where it goes darker and I don't see it at all. I'm not an expert, but I think that's the case with emerald cuts. IMHO, you should see the effect straight on, when you move it slowly and the angles change, you should see bars of white and colored light flashing on and off, and sparkles in the corners.

Edited to add that Jon of Distinctive Gem has YouTube videos featuring some emerald cuts. That might help you get a better feel what to look for.

 

[Karl_K]

Should I be able to see the hall of mirrors effect with a 1ct.? The diamond sparkles but I don’t get that hall of mirrors effect at every angle… It’s kinda hard to see. Is that because of the size of diamond, or should you be able to see that regardless with the naked eye?

It comes and goes as different areas flash on and off with tilt.

 

[Saints91]

I have a 1.05ct and I see the effect, but not at every angle. I also have a 4.01ct Distinctive Gem Emerald cut (LG). I see the hall of mirrors effect in that diamond straight on and at some angles, but there is a tipping point where it goes darker and I don't see it at all. I'm not an expert, but I think that's the case with emerald cuts. IMHO, you should see the effect straight on, when you move it slowly and the angles change, you should see bars of white and colored light flashing on and off, and sparkles in the corners.

Edited to add that Jon of Distinctive Gem has YouTube videos featuring some emerald cuts. That might help you get a better feel what to

Thanks for your feed back @Diamond Girl 21, it makes me feel a bit better about what I'm seeing.

My friend bought a diamond from Jon from Distinctive Gem, I'll check the videos out.

The videos that I took are too big of a file to post. But the diamond looks really good in daylight. Low light it's had to get much flash from it.

 

[Karl_K]

Low light it's had to get much flash from it.

The diamond is drawing light from behind you, the light in front does not count much and can make it harder to see.
Try this, if it looks dull and there are some lights around turn so your back is to the light.
Then rock it back and forth and watch the light show.

 

[Saints91]

Thanks Karl… I think it sparkles more in low light (basement overhead lighting, with very little natural light), but you don’t get the hall of mirrors effect, it’s more of that bowtie (black) effect with more sparkle.

Outside (overcast, rainy day), and upstairs with a ton of natural light I think it’s impressive, hall of mirrors, very bright, it’s fun to see the facets change.

I’ll have to wait for my partner to go to bed before I can take it upstairs for a stroll in normal evening lighting.

 

[Saints91]

The sun came out, and along came the sparkle. Just one more lighting scenario to look at. I think I’m pretty happy with the purchase.

Thank you everyone for all your help! You don’t get the same effect from static pictures but, might as we post some.

 

[firekeepingwolf]

The sun came out, and along came the sparkle. Just one more lighting scenario to look at. I think I’m pretty happy with the purchase.

Thank you everyone for all your help! You don’t get the same effect from static pictures but, might as we post some.

Beautiful ! Great choice !

 

[Saints91]

Thank you everyone that took the time to help me out! Your guidance (even reading through old threads) really helped me make an informed decision.

Sorry, one more question, is there any reason why the diamond would be hard to set? It's really narrow in the belly on the diamond.

 

[Karl_K]

Thank you everyone that took the time to help me out! Your guidance (even reading through old threads) really helped me make an informed decision.

Sorry, one more question, is there any reason why the diamond would be hard to set? It's really narrow in the belly on the diamond.

Your welcome.
nope, it will set just like any emerald cut would.

 

[Scon_ce]

@Saints91
Glad it worked out!
Have you picked out a setting? Is it going to be a surprise?

 

[Saints91]

Thanks Karl!

Yup, I picked out a setting. It's a bit of a mashup of the two rings in the pictures. It will be a 1.75mm yellow round gold band, with 3 accent stones on each side, with tiffany style ("C" shape) claws. The jeweler that designed the Emerald claw ring in the pictures is making the piece. I'm pretty excited about it, I've been looking on her website for a few years now.

I was trying to keep it a surprise, but then I had to get some guidance from her... which was good, because I was looking cushion cuts and then I found out she preferred emeralds and asscher cuts. I took her to the jeweler's shop to look at a few rings and get her ring size, but that all she really knows at this point. She knows I'm looking... and that's about it.

 

[Karl_K]

Are you sure about the 1.7mm?
That would be pretty narrow for an EC, which when the ends are pressed exert more torque on the setting than rounds.
The pivot point is the band in blue, the difference in mechanical advantage from the EC should be obvious.

 

[Saints91]

Are you sure about the 1.7mm?
That would be pretty narrow for an EC, which when the ends are pressed exert more torque on the setting than rounds.
The pivot point is the band in blue, the difference in mechanical advantage from the EC should be obvious.

I didn't know that was an issue, what would be the minimum you would go?