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DK CAD help for aquamarine ring

Hivona

Brilliant_Rock
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Hello everyone! I am having this pale aquamarine set by David Klass and just received the first round of CADs. It will be 14k white gold & has all the elements I asked for. Overall I like it, it’s a good start, but I don’t love it. something isn’t quite right & I’m not sure what exactly it is..... might be how the shank connects? Should it curve upwards a bit? Hmmmm I’m not sure!

I'd love to hear others’ ideas & thoughts & see pictures for inspiration!
Thank you in advance!


A78FD006-3542-45E1-B188-57214C92C86F.jpeg
8D13C9BE-7425-4D7B-9FFC-1CB9AAECB193.jpeg
 

T L

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Do you like E-W orientation?

While I do like that the prongs are covering some of the pointed parts of the girdle, it does so at the expense of taking away from the beautiful gem shape design. I wonder what it would look like if the points are exposed, kind of like this gem. I would place the prongs between the points

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f0/5a/d1/f05ad1228d2b4f8ee5ab9b37a609ae15.png&imgrefurl=https://www.pinterest.com/pin/1970393561582153/&docid=7CyazPdrRaDFKM&tbnid=PiQIjf_jSGGAKM:&vet=1&w=284&h=284&hl=en&gsawvi=1&source=sh/x/im
 
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Rfisher

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I think you are on to something with the shank needing to curve up a bit to the basket.

Are you going with his always white never needing plating 14k white?

That stone and that setting belong together! Beautiful choice!
 

Hivona

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9607AB64-7B47-4A9C-B9EC-4DDFBE886B55.jpeg

I think you are on to something with the shank needing to curve up a bit to the basket.

Are you going with his always white never needing plating 14k white?

That stone and that setting belong together! Beautiful choice!

You know I had read that he has a really bright white gold and forgot to ask him for it! I would definitely want that bright white! In bright light the gem is more pale with slightly darker blue end tips.

Yes I am happy with E/W for this gemstone, I did request that. Also, low set and The prongs will be claws.

In this picture I circled two question areas. First, the lower left. That’s the area I’m struggling with. Should the meet point curve up a bit? Second, lower right, should the split in the shank be longer?

Thank you!
 

Rfisher

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Take a look at Niels three stone moval. Split shank and curves up a bit. I think that's what it needs.
My opinion on the split - I like it where it is. You can see it from above.
 

Rfisher

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I hate to sound like a broken record-
Make sure he's scanned your actual stone before approving cad.
If it's off any, it's gonna show. If it's off a lot, I'm reminded of a certain trillion that was a sad sad story.

And TL is right. At the expense of protecting the stones points, are you only going to 'see' an oval once it's set?
 

Hivona

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I understand what is being said about losing the shape with prongs at the points but I’m not a fan of prongs in between the points. For some reason to my eyes I lose the overall shape & see toooo many points then. :confused2:

Due to prong placement on the two hexes (hexi??lol) below my eyes see the hex shape better... however, I will look at more pictures & see if I can find some with in between prongs that I like!

As for the shank I think cathedral or cathedral-ish is what I’m looking for but couldn’t think of the name!

So far my check list is:
- scanned gemstone
- bright white metal
- cathedral type shank
- accentuate shape with prongs

EB783C11-7D7A-42AB-AA72-2935868A4F66.jpeg EC59E952-3FB2-4655-A41A-13619D0004EF.jpeg FE80138B-2B4A-4251-A2DA-46AE2F41B9F5.jpeg
 

T L

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I think a hexagon has sharper angles, and therefore the shape doesn’t get lost in translation with prongs covering the points. Your gem shape has more delicate angles and a more oval shape, so as Rfisher said, is it going to end up looking like an oval???

It’s a lovely stone, and I just hope DK optimizes that beautiful precision cut. =)
 

Hivona

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I think a hexagon has sharper angles, and therefore the shape doesn’t get lost in translation with prongs covering the points. Your gem shape has more delicate angles and a more oval shape, so as Rfisher said, is it going to end up looking like an oval???

It’s a lovely stone, and I just hope DK optimizes that beautiful precision cut. =)

Is there a prong shape or type that would be unobtrusive & work with the shape of the gem?
 

T L

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Is there a prong shape or type that would be unobtrusive & work with the shape of the gem?
You would have to ask DK.
 

elle_71125

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I don’t have anything helpful to add. I’m just agreeing with some previous posters. I think a cathedral type shank is the way to go and I think the split shank is long enough. It’s pretty noticeable from above. You’re on the right track. :mrgreen2:
 

Hivona

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ADF94E38-4930-41A7-8696-56422E2ADEA4.jpeg

I was also thinking of a petite bezel because I love bezels but thought that prongs might keep the stone more open to light. So what about something kind of like this? Maybe bezel the sides & prongs on the points? Or not good design elements for my gemstone shape?
 

Bluegemz

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ADF94E38-4930-41A7-8696-56422E2ADEA4.jpeg

I was also thinking of a petite bezel because I love bezels but thought that prongs might keep the stone more open to light. So what about something kind of like this? Maybe bezel the sides & prongs on the points? Or not good design elements for my gemstone shape?
I like this idea a lot. I think it gives a nice buffer for the stone, and may concentrate the color a bit more with the cupping bezel.
 

Bluegemz

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324A261B-F784-4642-8C70-40F529E73DD0.jpeg

Here is another with prongs & bezel. Is cupping bezel the correct nomenclature?
Lol, I don’t think it is! It’s just how I ‘percieved’ it. :razz: Really like this example too! I’m terrible with cads, but the extra heft of the Metal definitely adds substantiality, and a third element to the design, which I find adds a lovely equilibrium. Just my taste tho.
 

Hivona

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I like the combination of bezel and prongs. I would definitely want the bezel to be more precise and sharper than the green gem. Possibly prongs on the N/S/E/W points? I guess if I went with a bezel/prong style I should get rid of the swoopy pieces that are connecting the prongs underneath the stone??? Might it be too busy with swoops, prongs, and bezel metal? I really do like the swoop elements though... Would I also be able to keep the split shank?
 

Bluegemz

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I agree, prongs should be finer than the ones in the example ring. And I see what you mean about the swoops with the bezel possibly not working together Maybe there is a way of combining those swoops with a slightly more flared out, buttercup style, as one idea. I’ll have to think about it. Hmmm...I’m probably not being much help here. I can imagine that with the split shank. Btw, I think the original CAD is very lovely too. Beautiful stone!
 

Hivona

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I might ask for a CAD with the bezel/prongs & then see which direction I prefer & then tweak the design from there. I do like the original too! Everyone that posted has helped! thank you!
 

meely

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This is looking nice, I love the cut of the aqua. Think the suggestions so far have been spot on, looking forward to seeing your next round of cads.
 

elle_71125

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324A261B-F784-4642-8C70-40F529E73DD0.jpeg

Here is another with prongs & bezel. Is cupping bezel the correct nomenclature?

I really like this option. It would let the angles on your oval stand out. I’d definitely use sharper prongs than those ones though. ;)2 Do you want the bezel style (not sure what this is called tbh) to be so fluid or are you thinking of one that’s sharper / more angular?
 

Hivona

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I really like this option. It would let the angles on your oval stand out. I’d definitely use sharper prongs than those ones though. ;)2 Do you want the bezel style (not sure what this is called tbh) to be so fluid or are you thinking of one that’s sharper / more angular?

I am composing the email to DK right now & asked for a similar CAD but definitely with sharper angles! I’d want very crisp lines. I also thought maybe like V-tips that kind of taper into a thin bezel...

And here I thought I knew what I wanted! Haha!
 

Hivona

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I really am a bezel fan! What about these two for inspiration? Just a simple bezel (top) or bezel with prongs (bottom)? I think I like bezel with prongs. I just really want to accentuate the shape of the gem & don’t want it to look like an oval.

BBE01B66-0126-41A1-926A-2BB8C12EBBD8.jpeg B13C69FE-3E7A-4A43-B0B4-1613460A257D.jpeg
 

Bluegemz

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I really am a bezel fan! What about these two for inspiration? Just a simple bezel (top) or bezel with prongs (bottom)? I think I like bezel with prongs. I just really want to accentuate the shape of the gem & don’t want it to look like an oval.

BBE01B66-0126-41A1-926A-2BB8C12EBBD8.jpeg B13C69FE-3E7A-4A43-B0B4-1613460A257D.jpeg
Ooh, that bottom one is amazing!!!
 

elle_71125

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I really am a bezel fan! What about these two for inspiration? Just a simple bezel (top) or bezel with prongs (bottom)? I think I like bezel with prongs. I just really want to accentuate the shape of the gem & don’t want it to look like an oval.

BBE01B66-0126-41A1-926A-2BB8C12EBBD8.jpeg B13C69FE-3E7A-4A43-B0B4-1613460A257D.jpeg

That bottom one is perfect! It will keep the sharp lines of your oval but still gives you the delicious claw prongs. :love:
 

Hivona

Brilliant_Rock
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This one is perfect for a stone like yours, to my eye anyway! I love your stone - do you mind me asking where you got it?

Thank you! I’ll be honest I’m leaning towards that one as well! I knew there was a reason I had it saved with the seeming 1000s of gemstone & setting ideas from Instagram!

The aqua is from Dan Stair, CustomGemstones.com. I really liked that it was not round and not oval, a different shape that wasn’t in my collection. It is quite pale in the middle but a bit darker on the tips & overall very bright!
 

Hivona

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That bottom one is perfect! It will keep the sharp lines of your oval but still gives you the delicious claw prongs. :love:

How would I have the shank?
 

lissyflo

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The aqua is from Dan Stair, CustomGemstones.com. I really liked that it was not round and not oval, a different shape that wasn’t in my collection. It is quite pale in the middle but a bit darker on the tips & overall very bright!

Thanks for the info. It’s lovely. The outline is very much my taste. It’s going to look really striking set E/W!
 
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