Diamond Solitaire Engagement Ring: Metal Choices

[sukhi_v]

Okay, so this is my first post here (woo hoo) and it''s about the super old pt/pd/wg debate.

My fiance purchased me a beautiful solitaire engagement ring set in 18k wg with a platinum head. Although I love the look of white gold, I have issues with the need to repeatedly rhodium plate it. I''m very rough on my rings, and had to have my e-ring polished within the first 6 months of wearing it (the ring is a plain solitaire setting).

In the next couple of months, my fiance and I will be getting married, and we''ve decided to reset the diamond in the same setting but a different metal, and to purchase a plain 3mm wedding ring to match with the solitaire.

Now... I have been reading threads about the pt/pd/wg debate for the last month or so, and have read JohnQuixote''s article on common alloys used in jewelry, as well as information provided on other links.

I want:
- the bright white finish of rhodium-plated 18k wg or something very close to it.

I don''t mind:
- scratches
- the patina of platinum*

*One of my friends has a platinum e/w ring set, and it is a very dull gunmetal grey color, which doesn''t appeal to me. I don''t think I would mind it as much if it wasn''t such a dull grey. It would look wonderful if it was a bright white.

I do NOT want:
- a dull gunmetal grey patina

So I guess what I''m trying to say is that I don''t mind it if my rings end up getting scratched, as long as they stay white in color.

From what I''ve read so far, my choices appear to be:

Pt900/Ir
Pt950/Ru
18k Pd WG
Pd950/Ru

Knowing that there is no filigree work, or sidestones in my ring set, I was wondering if someone could please tell me what would be the best metal of choice for me.

Also, if anyone could support their metal of choice with reputable jewellers who work with their metal of choice, it would be greatly appreciated.

*I''m allergic to silver (it turns my skin black), and some white gold alloys.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Well, Tiffany's and Leon Mege both usually use 950 platinum/ruthenium, and I have found them to still be totally white after a year with almost no scratches (although I am careful with my rings). The 950 plat/iridium is not as hard and I think it gets more scratched and gray sooner in some cases. At least that is what I have observed with the rings of relatives versus my own. My second choice would be the 900 plat/iridium which is what Mark Morrell uses.

This is not common, but you actually can rhodium plate your platinum rings if you really like the rhodium finish. At least as it wears off, it would not look yellowish underneath like wg does. But I think you'd be pleased with the 950 plat/ruth combo.

Oh, and welcome to PS!!!

 

[sukhi_v]

hey diamondseeker. thank you for your suggestions. since i posted here, the conversation between my fiance and i took an unexpected twist.

we''ve actually decided to try and set the stone in rose gold or yellow gold, and custom design our set so that we get something unique and different.

i know it''s totally different from what i''d originally posted about, but after going through all the information that''s available out there, we decided that there''s more hassle involved in setting the diamond in a white metal rather than in a yellow or rose gold setting.

it''s kind of funny, though, since you''d think that after all this time we''d finally be able to figure out how to perfect a white metal that doesn''t change color, maintains shine well, and whatnot.

but whatever it is, i''m really looking forward to sitting down with a designer and finalizing my engagement ring and wedding ring.

woo hoo!

 

[JulieN]

the problem with what you are asking is that platinum isn't really white, but kind of gray to begin with...rhodium is whiter than Pt. certain Pt alloys are whiter than others, I believe.

WG with nickel is supposed to stay very white, but it only works if you aren't sensitive...and you might develop sensitivity after sustained contact.

 

[JulieN]

If you look here: http://journal.pricescope.com/Articles/47/1/An-Overview-Of-Common-Alloys-Used-In-Jewelry.aspx

It seems Pt/Ir is the whitest.

 

[DentD]

At the risk of coming across as dense and quite ignorant of the jewelry world...Is there a reason silver isn''t usually considered for rings? I have a diamond pendant that is bezel set in sterling silver and it looks whiter than my WG ring.

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 2/15/2009 8:20:06 PM
Author: DentD
At the risk of coming across as dense and quite ignorant of the jewelry world...Is there a reason silver isn''t usually considered for rings? I have a diamond pendant that is bezel set in sterling silver and it looks whiter than my WG ring.

Yes, SS is not durable/strong enough for long term use in high end jewellery.

 

[Daisi2112]

Hello,

I personally would go platinum because it is a much stronger metal. I always feel better knowing my diamond is really secure in it. In the long run, platinum will be worth it in my opinion.

 

[lyra]

Gah, having trouble getting this right.

Please come back with handshots! I love YG and RG and would love to see more!