Defective Mounting/Shoddy Workmanship?

[LolaRVA]

First time poster, I hope I am using the correct forum, would greatly appreciate any expert or layperson input. Pictured is my platinum engagement ring, which up until yesterday housed a 2.64 ct emerald cut diamond. The ring is barely two years old, was reset with the emerald 7 months ago (previously held a 1.4 ct round). Yesterday after light laundry and a walk I discovered that the entire center mounting and stone were gone (and not just detached, but disappeared). The stone is insured however I can't believe that just over 1/2 year of normal wear could cause such catastrophic damage. Short of me welding or smashing it off myself, how could this have happened? I ask because I've of course approached the jeweler who sold and serviced the ring, as I am absolutely certain that the workmanship was faulty and/or the stone was put in a setting that could not properly support it. The manager's first response was not helpful (she said "these things happen..." or that there must have been significant impact for this damage to occur, which there absolutely was not). I was not satisfied with that response and will be meeting with a VP on Monday. Has anyone seen an incident like this with such a new piece? Could properly-welded platinum seriously fail like this? Suggestions/input for how to proceed? Thank you!

 

[skypie]

Wow. Did you hit your ring on something? Hard to imagine you wouldn't feel the impact if it sheared off the entire stone.

 

[LolaRVA]

I actually wish I'd hit the ring because at least then I'd know a cause! But no, absolutely no impact whatsoever - you're right, I would've felt it it there was. I have a desk job, light exercise, ring off for any prolonged work with my hands simply because it gets in the way. And I'm pregnant nonetheless so taking it extra easy these days. My worry is that the work was bad from the beginning and it was just a matter of time before this happened. If you look at the pics, there's hardly any platinum left on that base. I wonder if it was welded away and the mounting never stood a chance without something to hold on to?

 

[rockysalamander]

They clearly replaced head. No way on this earth a EC of that size would have fit into your former round head. If the actual head holding the EC was too small, the stone would have fallen out; they head would not have sheared. That is clearly the remnants of a soldered (not laser welded) joint and, while messy, it would be hard to prove it was improperly soldered. While there is some truth that any setting like this (a head soldered to a shank) is not as sturdy as those with cathedral shoulders or those not cast as a single piece, I find it rather surprising and unacceptable that it failed without a solid blow. My guess, and this is a guess without a microscope, is that three were microscopic fractures or cracks in the solder that lead to failure. This can happen to even experienced jewelers when you get a bad batch of solder (certainly less common than in my grandmother's shop 30 years ago), but also from grabbing the wrong solder, or having contamination during repair (and likely trade member can give a few hundred more causes!).

If you want a definitive answer, I would take the remnant of the shank to a very experienced and reputable appraiser who does forensic work. Have them look at it.

Also, re-walk every single inch you traveled. Maybe that lovely EC is out there and can be found! Diamonds are tricky and can get caught in fabric or get thrown into tiny spaces.

You did not ask, so skip over this if you like. But, I would also consider a new setting. If you look at the setting below (same as the video), you can see the prongs each contact the shank individually (4 locations). the low cathedral shoulders also support a crossbar (2 locations in totally different planes). So, that 6 points of contact that have to fail for the head to be lost.

 

[LolaRVA]

Thank you for such an informative reply! Absolutely, the jeweler popped off the RB head and attached a new one for the EC. So the entire structural integrity of the stone was reliant on that one soldered point. Probably not the safest practice... I do feel it's worth pursuing with the jeweler further, they're a fairly large regional chain with all work done in-house, I think it'd bode better for them to rectify the situation than to have someone out there with an example of how their work failed after 6 months. Even if it could happen to the best jeweler, this one can afford to replace what was lost. And I wonder if insurance would subrogate if a claim was paid out? But I digress...

And I appreciate the recommendations in re: setting for replacement. No question, I will be insisting on something far more secure. Right now I'm so traumatized that I'm afraid to wear another stone!

Thanks again!

 

[natasha-cupcake]

I have no expertise or advice to give you. I just want to say I'm so sorry that happened to you. I would be devastated. Here's to hoping you get exactly the resolution you want and deserve.

 

[LLJsmom]

I am so sorry. That must have been traumatic. I would still have my head In My hands wondering what the hell happened to my ring. I truly hope you find your stone. It is beautiful.
For the sake of your beautiful stone, I beseech you to seriously consider a whole NEW setting and a completely different vendor. There are many vendors that we can recommend that would be much more reliable than the one that worked on your ring. I am sorry if this offends you. I don’t mean to. Your beautiful stone deserves a beautiful and secure setting. If this can happen to an un-whacked ring, I would not go near this vendor if you paid me. Please let us know what happens.

 

[Karl_K]

Typical failure mode for that type of ring.
Emerald cut diamond rings are notorious for this failure mode.
While kinda rude saying that "these things happen" in a dismissive tone, the truth is that they do.
The overhang of the new head off the sides of the setting was too much for the size of the joint.


It does not take a hard hit, pressure or getting caught on something will do it.
Getting hooked on a laundry basked could do it. Look in the basket it might be there.
Up here in the cold mid-west it happens a lot from rings getting caught on coats taking them on and off.
Looking at where it came apart if looks like the solder and part of the base material is fractured.

As far as it being the result of bad workmanship, cant say for sure from pictures but I would hazard a guess and say probably not.

 

[Karl_K]

On a more personal note I am so sorry that you lost your diamond, that really sucks :{
Check your coat sleeve if you were wearing one and check in the laundry basket.

 

[Bron357]

Oh no.
Check every drawer in your house, car and office. I can imagine you’ve bumped the setting getting something out of a drawer. Check any cupboard, fridge, washing machine dryer, basically anywhere you can remember putting your hand. Check your pockets in the clothes you wore that day. Check the handbag you used that day. It isn’t going to have just “fallen off”, there will have been a “bump” or a “catch” on something.
I hope you find your precious diamond.
If not, definitely get a brand new setting, I personally wouldn’t replace a head on an existing ring only because I know the “second working” of metal can come with problems. The solder joint was reworked and it was a small solder point. Go for shoulders as added support in your new ring.
Fingers crossed your beautiful diamond is sitting waiting for you to find it.