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Custom setting - it's on!

naivemelody

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Nov 2, 2016
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After a week of shopping, sketching, comparing, and consulting with my fiance, I have an idea for a custom setting for his mom's beautiful marquise diamond!

I'm growing pretty attached to this general idea, but I'm far from an expert on anything jewelry, so I'm open to tips on how to improve it. Despite my love of warm-toned metals, I'm thinking of doing this in platinum since the diamond is very white. I'll update with any revisions and CADs as things progress.

This forum has been such an amazing resource, so thank you, you knowledgeable people, for all the info here! :read:

ring_sketch_1.jpg ring_sketch_2.jpg ring_sketch_3.jpg
 

diamondseeker2006

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Is she wearing this as an engagement ring? It looks like a solitaire engagement ring setting, and my first thought is that it would be difficult to wear a wedding band with it due to the large base. That entire part under the stone won't show, and I am not sure about how it will turn out to look.

Oh, maybe you and your fiance are making a ring with this stone for you?

I honestly would ask for setting ideas from people here if you haven't already. There are many nice ones.
 

diamondseeker2006

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kmarla

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Those are some great drawing skills!! I remember from your other thread that you were looking for a setting that has arches that somewhat mimic the marquise shape. I agree with Diamondseeker that the setting you have sketched right now will be very hard to wear a band with. I've linked a setting here that still has the basic arch shapes but would be easier to match with a band. Maybe you can modify your sketch a bit using this as an example. Hope this helps.

When you open the link, click on the "round" icon bottom left of picture and select marquise.

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/14k-white-gold-2mm-comfort-fit-solitaire-engagement-ring-six-prong-item-7995
 

naivemelody

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diamondseeker2006 said:
Okay, I looked at your other thread and see the ring is for you. I really don't think this design is going to look right when finished, to be honest. Niel's ring is a great solitaire design and I liked the lines of the Leon M ring.

Have you looked here?

<span class="skimlinks-unlinked">https://www.google.com/search?q=marquise+diamond+rings&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS706US706&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=541&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiN3bzQlrvQAhUHbSYKHXCnDscQ_AUIBygC</span>
Would you be able to say why this wouldn't work, if the Leon Mege ring works? I'm going for something similar to that, but with 6 prongs instead of 8, pointy shapes instead of smooth curves, and adding the detail on the sides (like this, which I think is also a pretty setting). Do you just think it's ugly or is there something structurally unsound about it? Or both?

I've spent hours upon hours looking at every marquise setting I could find. I wouldn't mind just a simple Tiffany solitaire shaped to fit a marquise, but since I'd have to get that custom-made anyway, I wanted to add the detail on the sides that I love.

It seems to me that most marquise settings can't be worn with a wedding band flush against them, so I'm assuming that'd be OK for mine also. I tried on a set with a gap and I don't think it would bother me. Of course I'd prefer the gap not to be too large, but I didn't think this idea would result in a particularly larger gap than the Leon ring.
 

diamondseeker2006

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kmarla|1479780003|4101262 said:
Those are some great drawing skills!! I remember from your other thread that you were looking for a setting that has arches that somewhat mimic the marquise shape. I agree with Diamondseeker that the setting you have sketched right now will be very hard to wear a band with. I've linked a setting here that still has the basic arch shapes but would be easier to match with a band. Maybe you can modify your sketch a bit using this as an example. Hope this helps.

When you open the link, click on the "round" icon bottom left of picture and select marquise.

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/14k-white-gold-2mm-comfort-fit-solitaire-engagement-ring-six-prong-item-7995
Great example of a marquise setting that will allow the wedding band to sit relatively close! Oh, and I would do V prongs on the tips to protect them.
 

naivemelody

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It sounds like you just think this is ugly, but if the band is the issue, what if I "lifted" the top and bottom parts to make room for a "donut" underneath? That's how the Tiffany settings create room for a band right?
ring_sketch_4_2.jpg
Other than the band I don't see how this wouldn't look right, I mean everyone has different tastes of course but I feel like I'm sticking pretty close to "the script" here. *sigh* so clueless I don't even know how clueless I am, I guess...
 

kmarla

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I don't think your design is ugly at all. Lifting the setting like in your latest sketch will make it much easier to wear with a band. It's a small modification and I don't think it takes away from your original design at all.
 

naivemelody

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kmarla said:
I don't think your design is ugly at all. Lifting the setting like in your latest sketch will make it much easier to wear with a band. It's a small modification and I don't think it takes away from your original design at all.
Thank you - no, you were really sweet, I appreciate the suggestion and agree with what you said. I think this is a good modification - I thought about something like that earlier but it's sometimes hard to envision properly!
 

farrahlyn

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diamondseeker2006

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Yes, the base and doughnut have to be small and have the prongs swooping upward from the small base to allow a band to sit closer (as in, the center star has to be very small). If David Klass is making it, it will be easier to adjust in CADs. I'd just emphasize that you want a band to sit close to the e-ring and that the base has to be small. Post those here and you can get more help getting the CADs right.
 

naivemelody

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farrahlyn|1479827346|4101461 said:
mad drawing skills, wow!! I really like the design a lot and i think with the modification so that a band can sit flush, it's perfect. I like that it's mimicking the shape of the stone. Are you wanting more of a 3D look, almost like a buttercup setting but that is less prominent and hidden under the stone? similar to these?

http://www.lizcjewelry.com/documents/P_ImageFull/300300_P_ImageFull_348.jpg

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0821/9611/products/R962_6.jpg?v=1452545426
Yes, exactly! Thank you :) I have a weird love for buttercup settings - the 3D aspect like you said - but I don't want to block too much light on the sides, nor make like a rectangular shape which I think would happen with a marquise. The first picture you linked is spot-on.

I took a shot at drawing the top and side views with a small doughnut as the base. I think it improves the idea, so thank you both very much for your help!
ring_sketch_revised2.jpg
 

farrahlyn

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i absolutely get where you're going with this! I love buttercup settings too but i often wish they were a little more delicate, a little less metal so as not to overwhelm the stone. I hope your idea can become a reality, who are you going with, DK? i can't wait to see CAD's and finished product! Please be sure to update this thread, i'm going to make sure i get notifications!
 

naivemelody

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We contacted DK this weekend but haven't heard back yet. We're talking to a couple of local jewelers too - fiance isn't keen on the idea of sending the diamond through the mail, even with shipping guarantees things can sometimes go wrong. We're in the bay area so luckily there's a fair amount of quality local places. I'm hoping if we do our homework and be very clear about the design, we'll get a good result - I'll definitely be posting CADs and design progress as it goes!
 

Resonance.Of.Life

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DK does better over the phone and remember, it is a holiday week..so responses may be delayed.
 

OECrystal

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I LOVE your setting idea. You have great talent with your drawings. I can totally picture the setting. I know you said you are thinking of platinum but when I saw your sketch, I immediately pictured yellow gold with a matte finish. I also thought a designer like CvB might execute something like this beautifully. I think you mentioned that you are the Bay Area. CvB is located in NorCal and is so much fun to work with. She is known more for her antique styles but she has done some modern pieces with lines and angles that remind me of your setting.

I cannot wait to see your vision come to life! Please keep us updated. :)
 

Kilda

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I really like the first version better. It's more dramatic with the big swooping arches. If having a band sit close is important to you though I guess the change is necessary.
 

Niel

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I like the first version best.

Of it doest fit flush who cares? If you care, you can buy a wedding band with a v in it, they look very cool with marquise rings.

Will dk do it?
 

naivemelody

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We found our jeweler: Rick of Wenrics! We're confident he's the right person for the job. He and Wendy spent a lot of time with us, going over the design, and educating us about the stone as well. So that's decided!

We're doing 14k Stuller X1 white gold - I'd wanted 14k gold from the beginning, so I'm glad we ended up there, and hopefully without the need for rhodium plating (not expecting it to look like platinum, I love warm metals so I'm only going white because the stone is so white). Plus this way I won't be putting a gold wedding band next to platinum - Rick is using the 14k yellow gold from the old setting to make our wedding bands, which is really cool.

I wish I had taken final pictures of the sketches, but I left them with Rick. I brought some of the shapes back toward the first version a little, but still with the doughnut. I do want to keep the big swooping arches underneath, but I don't feel like I'm losing anything by replacing the giant hole in the bottom with a doughnut - the hole wouldn't be visible, and doesn't really help with light getting to the stone.

I think Rick has a good idea of where to go with this, but if I have time I may try to make clearer sketches showing exactly what is straight and what is curved, etc. for everyone's benefit. Big thanks to everyone playing along with this :) it's really helpful!
 

lovedogs

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naivemelody|1479925776|4101945 said:
We found our jeweler: Rick of Wenrics! We're confident he's the right person for the job. He and Wendy spent a lot of time with us, going over the design, and educating us about the stone as well. So that's decided!

We're doing 14k Stuller X1 white gold - I'd wanted 14k gold from the beginning, so I'm glad we ended up there, and hopefully without the need for rhodium plating (not expecting it to look like platinum, I love warm metals so I'm only going white because the stone is so white). Plus this way I won't be putting a gold wedding band next to platinum - Rick is using the 14k yellow gold from the old setting to make our wedding bands, which is really cool.

I wish I had taken final pictures of the sketches, but I left them with Rick. I brought some of the shapes back toward the first version a little, but still with the doughnut. I do want to keep the big swooping arches underneath, but I don't feel like I'm losing anything by replacing the giant hole in the bottom with a doughnut - the hole wouldn't be visible, and doesn't really help with light getting to the stone.

I think Rick has a good idea of where to go with this, but if I have time I may try to make clearer sketches showing exactly what is straight and what is curved, etc. for everyone's benefit. Big thanks to everyone playing along with this :) it's really helpful!
I'm happy you guys found someone you are confident can do this correctly! Your drawing skills are amazing, and I think it's going to be gorgeous!
 

kmarla

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I'm really looking forward to seeing your finished ring. It will be gorgeous!!
 

distracts

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Great! I love the design. And to me 14k Stuller white looks pretty much like platinum. It's not got that offwhite look that a lot of white golds have.
 

naivemelody

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ring1_3.png ring3_4.png ring2_5.png

CADs are here! I requested more side views, since I can't entirely tell from this, but I think it's really really close! Last two are screencaps from a 3D animation, really cool but unfortunately still didn't get the full side angles.

The only thing I know I want to tweak is the band, I want to change it to a more D-shaped profile and make it a bit thinner and narrower. It also looks like there might not be a hole in the bottom, if not then I'll want to add that for cleaning.

Looking at the reflection of the underside in the first image, I love what he was able to do with the basket: instead of a separate doughnut like the v2 design, it seems like he changed the C-shaped prongs of the v1 design to a slight S-shape that preserves the swoopy curved dome of the basket while still raising that dome up so that a band can slide under there a bit (when we talked about the bands with him, I explained about the doughnut and the band sitting near to the ring, etc). Looks genius to me.

Thoughts welcome!
 

farrahlyn

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So, i'm not familiar with CADs, i'll preface my comments with that. I totally agree with you about the band, i'd thin it out for sure. Def need to see more profile shots. Do you want it to have the split shank look when looking from the top? I keep looking at your drawings and the swooping looks more tucked under and a little less less of a split shank look. I think it looks fine either way and maybe its exaggerated some on the 3D. what kind of prongs are you going for?
 
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