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Custom setting, can it be amended?

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
I have a WF ACA that I purchased loose with a setting be made locally as I am not in the USA so easier for sizing.
I gave these images to my jeweller for inspiration and the ring has been made. The shoulder is solid where I wanted it open, would it be possible to open it up?
552F9D4C-0A28-4529-8E65-0BD12A632ADF.jpeg AFF50FB6-7826-4818-94AD-DB8970AEBD7A.jpeg 49C8707F-CDFE-4750-A641-233ADB778E07.jpeg 0AE8A642-9DA2-4FCB-A171-168B7B80DF1C.jpeg Looking at it the prongs are completely different.
 

oldminer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Sep 3, 2000
Messages
6,516
I could be opened up, BUT if it is done without due care and skill, it won't resemble the degree of finish and polish shown in the original design model. It is not an easy job to do correctly, and far easier to make a mess of it. Changing the entire shank to one already cast or die struck with the open cathedral shoulders would be the cleanest way to go. The current shank appears somewhat thick and heavy. The replacement could be a lighter design unless you wanted to have the ring substantial and highly durable over a bit more elegant. Now is the opportunity to get it the way you wanted it to be.
 

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
I could be opened up, BUT if it is done without due care and skill, it won't resemble the degree of finish and polish shown in the original design model. It is not an easy job to do correctly, and far easier to make a mess of it. Changing the entire shank to one already cast or die struck with the open cathedral shoulders would be the cleanest way to go. The current shank appears somewhat thick and heavy. The replacement could be a lighter design unless you wanted to have the ring substantial and highly durable over a bit more elegant. Now is the opportunity to get it the way you wanted it to be.

Thank you. I wanted the setting like the inspiration picture, the one that has been made looks nothing like what I really wanted.
This setting was a cad but I never got to see any images.
At the moment I feel like I should have just gone for a 6 prong setting off the shelf rather than the lotus petal design.
I will contact the jeweller on Monday and let know know my thoughts.
I did want a slender setting, it’s for a 1ct , so the metal to be proportional to the diamond.
 

Ionysis

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 1, 2015
Messages
460
I have to say that inspiration setting doesn’t look safe at all. Your jewellers interpretation is likely to be much more durable. I agree the shank is clumpy though. I’d keep the basket the same but have the shank remade with the open shoulders and a lighter band.
 

msop04

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
9,927
I have to say that inspiration setting doesn’t look safe at all. Your jewellers interpretation is likely to be much more durable. I agree the shank is clumpy though. I’d keep the basket the same but have the shank remade with the open shoulders and a lighter band.

Why would you say this looks unsafe? I totally disagree. The inspiration setting would be super safe. I wouldn't hesitate to have this setting duplicated.
 

Ionysis

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 1, 2015
Messages
460
Second photo looks ok but the top one look fragile to me.

prongs don’t hug the stone and it looks like one good knock would snap the whole basket off.
 

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
Why would you say this looks unsafe? I totally disagree. The inspiration setting would be super safe. I wouldn't hesitate to have this setting duplicated.
Second photo looks ok but the top one look fragile to me.

prongs don’t hug the stone and it looks like one good knock would snap the whole basket off.

This was one of the inspiration images. i didn’t go for this setting as it had 8 prongs and I wanted 6.
@Ionysis a Danhov setting should be secure?
 

LLJsmom

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
10,752
I’ve seen that danhov before. It’s very pretty. You said “inspiration” to jeweler, j not “the same”? If so, there you have it. I am thinking they have to do a lot of work, maybe recast. The one now isn’t bad. Depends on what you can live with.
 

msop04

Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Dec 3, 2011
Messages
9,927
Second photo looks ok but the top one look fragile to me.

prongs don’t hug the stone and it looks like one good knock would snap the whole basket off.

That doesn't show finished prongs - the diamond is simply set in an unfinished basket. That setting is very safe. The basket is anchored very well.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
21,723
I’ve seen that danhov before. It’s very pretty. You said “inspiration” to jeweler, j not “the same”? If so, there you have it. I am thinking they have to do a lot of work, maybe recast. The one now isn’t bad. Depends on what you can live with.

Ditto. It’s unfortunate that you didn’t see CAD images, as they would have shown the proposed alterations. They wouldn’t have been able to copy the design in the pictures that you sent, so it sounds like they made their own modifications without soliciting your approval.

I’ll be honest - what they created looks beautiful to me. Delicate and clearly floral, but in a more subtle way than the Danhov. I prefer it to the Danhov. But you have to love it!
 

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
I’ve seen that danhov before. It’s very pretty. You said “inspiration” to jeweler, j not “the same”? If so, there you have it. I am thinking they have to do a lot of work, maybe recast. The one now isn’t bad. Depends on what you can live with.

I originally went and visited the jeweller in November with a page of images that I had added my notes to, what I liked and what parts I didn’t! I did want the ring for my birthday in December but it was not possible so the ring was put back to after Christmas. I got back in contact with him in January and said in my email and said this is exactly what I would like but 6 prongs.
 

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
Ditto. It’s unfortunate that you didn’t see CAD images, as they would have shown the proposed alterations. They wouldn’t have been able to copy the design in the pictures that you sent, so it sounds like they made their own modifications without soliciting your approval.

I’ll be honest - what they created looks beautiful to me. Delicate and clearly floral, but in a more subtle way than the Danhov. I prefer it to the Danhov. But you have to love it!

It’s the solid shoulder that is really bugging me. I think if they can be opened up, it will be better?
Maybe the fact that it’s only a 1ct and 6 petals equals 12 pieces of metals, so could be too much metal?
 

LLJsmom

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Oct 24, 2012
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10,752
It’s the solid shoulder that is really bugging me. I think if they can be opened up, it will be better?
Maybe the fact that it’s only a 1ct and 6 petals equals 12 pieces of metals, so could be too much metal?

These things are hard to say. It would totally depend on how delicate each piece of metal is. If VC were doing it, he would probably scale down the metal pieces to be thinner and proportionate to the size of the diamond, KWIM? That's the nice thing about having a custom piece done, the jeweler can scale down pieces to the size of your stone. Or if the setting inherently has a lot of metal, it could be something to discuss. Did you discuss that with him? The picture you posted does not show the finished ring, so maybe that step has not been completed?
 

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
These things are hard to say. It would totally depend on how delicate each piece of metal is. If VC were doing it, he would probably scale down the metal pieces to be thinner and proportionate to the size of the diamond, KWIM? That's the nice thing about having a custom piece done, the jeweler can scale down pieces to the size of your stone. Or if the setting inherently has a lot of metal, it could be something to discuss. Did you discuss that with him? The picture you posted does not show the finished ring, so maybe that step has not been completed?

Yes, I get what you mean. It all needs to be to scale.
I have not yet spoken to the jeweller as he is not able to work at the moment due to our lockdown. He went into the workshop and sent me the 2 photos.
I will email him in the morning and ask the following:
is it possible to open the shoulders?
The ring differs a lot to the images sent, was there a particular reason?

Could it be that Pricescope has set me up to be a very fussy client?
i really wish he had of sent me the cad before it was cast.
 

LLJsmom

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Oct 24, 2012
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10,752
Yes, I get what you mean. It all needs to be to scale.
I have not yet spoken to the jeweller as he is not able to work at the moment due to our lockdown. He went into the workshop and sent me the 2 photos.
I will email him in the morning and ask the following:
is it possible to open the shoulders?
The ring differs a lot to the images sent, was there a particular reason?

Could it be that Pricescope has set me up to be a very fussy client?
i really wish he had of sent me the cad before it was cast.

Is opening the shoulders the only thing you want? I'm just saying that if you're talking to the jeweler, it would be best to lay all your cards on the table. Tell him everything you want. Then see what he can do, and how much it will cost, and so you can make a fully informed decision. If you only open up the shoulders, and it still isn't exactly what you want, you still won't be completely happy with it. If opening up the shoulders is enough and you will be just fine, then go for it. Just trying to say, don't compromise already going in.
 

luckygreen317

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
37
I have a Danhov setting in platinum and I highly recommend the brand. I tried to have an “interpretation” made by my local jeweler and the attention to detail and proportions weren’t to my liking. In hindsight, I would have skipped trying to replicate it and just purchased the Danhov. Like most opinions given here, it’s up to your personal taste which is most important.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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21,723
is it possible to open the shoulders?
Read back over what @oldminer said. It may be possible, but it would be a finicky job in the best case scenario, it’s extremely unlikely that it would end up looking good, and would probably compromise the integrity of the shoulders. Much better to redesign with that design element as a first class citizen, and recast to include it from the beginning.

The ring differs a lot to the images sent, was there a particular reason?
Yes. They can’t copy a branded piece exactly. So they needed to make some (nontrivial) design changes. Unfortunately, it sounds like they weren’t clear on what was most important to you to retain, and since you didn’t see CAD images you had no chance to catch this.

i really wish he had of sent me the cad before it was cast.
I’m honestly kind of baffled that this didn’t happen. Was it an oversight? Or is their normal working process to not share CADs for a custom design? Did they explain their custom process to you? I think you need to get to the bottom of what happened.

If not getting your approval or the CAD was an error on their part - you should not pay a new design/casting fee out of pocket. If the process was explained to you and did not include discussion of the proposed design before casting, then - well, hoping that’s not the case!!
 

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
Read back over what @oldminer said. It may be possible, but it would be a finicky job in the best case scenario, it’s extremely unlikely that it would end up looking good, and would probably compromise the integrity of the shoulders. Much better to redesign with that design element as a first class citizen, and recast to include it from the beginning.


Yes. They can’t copy a branded piece exactly. So they needed to make some (nontrivial) design changes. Unfortunately, it sounds like they weren’t clear on what was most important to you to retain, and since you didn’t see CAD images you had no chance to catch this.


I’m honestly kind of baffled that this didn’t happen. Was it an oversight? Or is their normal working process to not share CADs for a custom design? Did they explain their custom process to you? I think you need to get to the bottom of what happened.

If not getting your approval or the CAD was an error on their part - you should not pay a new design/casting fee out of pocket. If the process was explained to you and did not include discussion of the proposed design before casting, then - well, hoping that’s not the case!!

Thank you for all your comments.
In November when originally asked about the setting he said it would to be cad and he would get in contact with a cad designer in the UK and the ring would be in the region of GBP1,200 vs GBP700 for a stock setting.
With Christmas and the cost it was out on hold whilst I made decision. I then decided that I wanted to go the cad route to get what I really wanted than make do and think what if. I was only going to do this the once.
At no point was the cad process discussed, I assumed that I would see the images first.
I was really surprised to hear the ring had been made.
I am on a small island 7 miles by 5 and I don’t think many others get any cad or custom rings made.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Aug 14, 2009
Messages
21,723
It IS clearly a different design. And it IS reasonable to assume that when a customer solicits a custom design, the designer would show the customer the design before final cast. Unless perhaps the customer explicitly asked the designer to “do what you like”.

Are you confident that’s the actual cast of your ring? It might be someone else’s.
If it is yours - are you confident it’s the cast that will actually be finished with your stone? It could be a silver or base metal casting for size/design check.

Definitely talk with your jeweller and find out what’s going on. It’s all lots of supposition at this point.
 

Izzy70

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
117
It IS clearly a different design. And it IS reasonable to assume that when a customer solicits a custom design, the designer would show the customer the design before final cast. Unless perhaps the customer explicitly asked the designer to “do what you like”.

Are you confident that’s the actual cast of your ring? It might be someone else’s.
If it is yours - are you confident it’s the cast that will actually be finished with your stone? It could be a silver or base metal casting for size/design check.

Definitely talk with your jeweller and find out what’s going on. It’s all lots of supposition at this point.
I have been in contact with the jeweller and he said it was his error, the images were sent to the cad designer, he didn’t check them fully when the cad was prepared and okayed the casting.
That is my ring but he going to reuse it for another and redo my cad. The reason he did not share the cad with me is because some people do not understand the images.
The cad/ring is all on hold at the moment until I can visit to see the current ring and get a feel for the size of the shank width etc.
So panic over :)
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Aug 14, 2009
Messages
21,723
Great news!! Very glad you were able to talk with your jeweller and he sorted things out - I'm looking forward to your next update! :appl:
 

AnastasiaBeaverhausen

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
1,019
I have been in contact with the jeweller and he said it was his error, the images were sent to the cad designer, he didn’t check them fully when the cad was prepared and okayed the casting.
That is my ring but he going to reuse it for another and redo my cad. The reason he did not share the cad with me is because some people do not understand the images.
The cad/ring is all on hold at the moment until I can visit to see the current ring and get a feel for the size of the shank width etc.
So panic over :)

Thank goodness! Sounds like your jeweler just made an honest mistake and is totally willing to worth with you to fix it. Sucks there will be a slight delay to the project, but now it's gonna turn out perfectly the way you want it to!
 
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